Whistle for Millie
Whistle for Millie
I know some folk have fitted working whistles to Millie... But what's the easiest way to get Millie to whistle?
I've just ordered a Millie - my first live steam loco - and a working whistle is high on my wishlist. But I don't think anyone offers a whistle kit for Millie(?) and I don't really have a clue how complicated fitting one of the ubiquitous Regner whistles to Millie would be.
If your Millie whistles - how did you do it, please, and how difficult was it?
I've just ordered a Millie - my first live steam loco - and a working whistle is high on my wishlist. But I don't think anyone offers a whistle kit for Millie(?) and I don't really have a clue how complicated fitting one of the ubiquitous Regner whistles to Millie would be.
If your Millie whistles - how did you do it, please, and how difficult was it?
I have a Millie too, and the question came up.
Richard Huss has fitted a whistle: http://gardenrails.myfreeforum.org/about3258.html
and RC:
http://gardenrails.myfreeforum.org/about6746.html
Richard Huss has fitted a whistle: http://gardenrails.myfreeforum.org/about3258.html
and RC:
http://gardenrails.myfreeforum.org/about6746.html
Rune
- Dr. Bond of the DVLR
- Retired Director
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Hullo,
I used a valve which DLRDan built (perhaps he can share the well thought out design on here?) and bodged together my own whistle from K&S brass tube. I didn't have a lathe at the time. The two are connected with my favorite lego pneumatic tubing and work well. I've had to look far back to find a good video with the whistle in action. (Bit of a throw back for the forum veterans...)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qNouNSmJftE
The whistle is mounted in the side tank so no holes needed to be drilled.
You could buy a valve from DJB and make your own whistle, alternatively I have seen a regner whislte kit being used on a milly but you would require an M(something) tap and drill to drill into the take off for the water gauge glass.
Something like this:
http://www.amalgamatedconserves.org.uk/ ... 4531740806
I can vouch for the quality of the regner whistle valve kits as I fitted one to my Regner Vincent and I think they are excellent value for money.
I hope this helps.
I used a valve which DLRDan built (perhaps he can share the well thought out design on here?) and bodged together my own whistle from K&S brass tube. I didn't have a lathe at the time. The two are connected with my favorite lego pneumatic tubing and work well. I've had to look far back to find a good video with the whistle in action. (Bit of a throw back for the forum veterans...)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qNouNSmJftE
The whistle is mounted in the side tank so no holes needed to be drilled.
You could buy a valve from DJB and make your own whistle, alternatively I have seen a regner whislte kit being used on a milly but you would require an M(something) tap and drill to drill into the take off for the water gauge glass.
Something like this:
http://www.amalgamatedconserves.org.uk/ ... 4531740806
I can vouch for the quality of the regner whistle valve kits as I fitted one to my Regner Vincent and I think they are excellent value for money.
I hope this helps.
The railway which people forgot
(to build)
Thank you Mr Bond! Drilling the holes worries me a bit (as RuneK says, it's got to be done right!) so there's something to be said for avoiding that! But bodging a whistle is somewhat beyond me... However, the effect is terrific in the video - what a lovely sound.
Drill and tapping into the water gauge take off sounds even more daunting than drilling the cab sheet. I'm coming round to the idea that after plenty of practice, I might attempt drilling the cab sheet!
Drill and tapping into the water gauge take off sounds even more daunting than drilling the cab sheet. I'm coming round to the idea that after plenty of practice, I might attempt drilling the cab sheet!
Remember I made that valve 3 or 4 years ago and I'v slept since then !Mr. Bond of the DVLR:116232 wrote:Hullo,
I used a valve which DLRDan built (perhaps he can share the well thought out design on here?)
.
It depends on what other fittings you are having on your millie where things can go. As its your first steamer then a full kit like the regner one will probably be the easiest for you to fit. All you will need then is a modified fitting to put the valve onto. The other option is to buy/build the parts separately.
Dan,
James: "Dan, can you use your hearing and tell me if that trains coming ?"
DLR
www.freewebs.com/dlrail
James: "Dan, can you use your hearing and tell me if that trains coming ?"
DLR
www.freewebs.com/dlrail
Many thanks DLRdan. Yes, it's a new Millie, ordered unadorned and the only thing I want to fit immediately is a Summerlands Chuffer (which looks do-able even for an inexperienced steamer like me - measure, cut down the exhaust pipes, and push fit). Anyway, that's up the other end of things, so shouldn't interfere. At some point I will no doubt want to add water top up paraphernalia and pressure gauge etc. but all of that is for another day and anyway the whistle takes priority..
So the Regner kit sounds good - but is the modified fitting it requires something that is commercially available...? Mr Bond suggested I'd need to drill and tap this myself but I wouldn't really know where to begin with that.
So the Regner kit sounds good - but is the modified fitting it requires something that is commercially available...? Mr Bond suggested I'd need to drill and tap this myself but I wouldn't really know where to begin with that.
Its not difficult to do (he says), I'd offer to do it for you but that the one tap I haven't got !
Dan,
James: "Dan, can you use your hearing and tell me if that trains coming ?"
DLR
www.freewebs.com/dlrail
James: "Dan, can you use your hearing and tell me if that trains coming ?"
DLR
www.freewebs.com/dlrail
I wanted a resonator whistle for my "Billy" locomotive, so I Emailed DJB engineering directly and he was quite helpful. I love the whistle and it wasn't difficult to install. Mr Bailey even drove to Roundhouse and picked up a part with which to make the fitting for the steam turret. It might be worth getting in contact with him and seeing if he has any suggestions. It may be that there is a resonator that does not require that you do any cutting- they come in different shapes and sizes.
I am very satisfied with my DJB whistle, and as Tag Gorton says, the steam comes out the right place!
I am very satisfied with my DJB whistle, and as Tag Gorton says, the steam comes out the right place!
Ok. It looks like my choice is this:
- Parts from DJB - must drill cab sheet (and maybe cut into tank) but steam comes out in the right place
- Regner Whistle Kit - must drill and tap water gauge take off
I will mull this over, but I think I'll need to wait for the loco so I can have it in front of me when I made a choice. I thought I might be able to get the parts ordered now so I could fit the whistle straight away when the loco arrives, but this probably isn't something to rush into.
- Parts from DJB - must drill cab sheet (and maybe cut into tank) but steam comes out in the right place
- Regner Whistle Kit - must drill and tap water gauge take off
I will mull this over, but I think I'll need to wait for the loco so I can have it in front of me when I made a choice. I thought I might be able to get the parts ordered now so I could fit the whistle straight away when the loco arrives, but this probably isn't something to rush into.
Seen on ebay
Has anyone experience with this steam whistle.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brass-Live-St ... SwstxVWi~z
Gerald
Has anyone experience with this steam whistle.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brass-Live-St ... SwstxVWi~z
Gerald
Bit late to the party I know but I was waiting until the most recent running day to take some pictures of my Millie's whistle arrangement. The valve is mounted on the water filler turret and the whistle is held in place by a bracket soldered onto the tank.
She had a push type valve but as it had a tendency to leak it was replaced with an old blower valve meaning I can 'play' it to some extent!
The whistle isn't visible from normal viewpoints.
She had a push type valve but as it had a tendency to leak it was replaced with an old blower valve meaning I can 'play' it to some extent!
The whistle isn't visible from normal viewpoints.
Not late at all! As it involves a bit more than fitting a Millie-compatible kit, I've not ordered anything or decided what to do yet. Indeed, if anything, it's a bit early. I think I'll understand these pictures better once my Millie arrives and I've got a point of reference!williamfj:116405 wrote:Bit late to the party I know
Can I ask where you got your whistle from - and how difficult was it to fit? It looks incredible neat.
-
- Trainee Fireman
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Hello, I have a whistle on my 2003 Millie that runs off the boiler take-off that would normally have the water glass thingy there. I have a two pipe screw on attachment. One pipe goes to the whistle under a false side tank and the other pipe goes up the chimney for dramatic steam effects...for photographs. Amazing what a bit of imagination can get you!!
Thanks for that description.Bill/Rubery:117013 wrote:Hello, I have a whistle on my 2003 Millie that runs off the boiler take-off that would normally have the water glass thingy there. I have a two pipe screw on attachment. One pipe goes to the whistle under a false side tank and the other pipe goes up the chimney for dramatic steam effects...for photographs. Amazing what a bit of imagination can get you!!
My Millie having arrived, I've run her a couple of times, now I'm starting to get my head around how these various options would be fitted.
A somewhat overdue update on my Millie’s whistle: I bought a Regner whistle.
To recap the two problems: the whistle has an M5 thread; and I wanted to keep the spare outlet so I could fit a water filler valve.
The solution is thanks to Mr Tony Bird, of this parish. As far as I’m concerned, Tony is an alchemist - where I see just a lump of square section brass, he sees a new steam turret. Bearing in mind I’ve never used a lathe before, all of this was a huge learning experience. My thanks to Tony for teaching me so much!
This pic shows the piece in progress - the bush on the front is for the regulator, the hole is for the supplied banjo bolt goes through the top, take off on the right for fitting a pressure gauge, if I choose to, later. Still to come - drill and tap a hole for the whistle valve.
Here it is fitted, with the valve.
The whistle itself we fitted underneath the cab.
It works! All the plumbing is fine. But, alas, it's a bit hissy. It sounds quite pure running on air (sorry, no video) just not so good on steam. Not sure why… Insufficient pressure? Condensation? The pipe runs inside the side tank where it’s presumably kept nice and warm, and though the valve weeps slightly, this should also help to keep the pipe warm.
Anyway, it's a whistle! It works! This is fun
To recap the two problems: the whistle has an M5 thread; and I wanted to keep the spare outlet so I could fit a water filler valve.
The solution is thanks to Mr Tony Bird, of this parish. As far as I’m concerned, Tony is an alchemist - where I see just a lump of square section brass, he sees a new steam turret. Bearing in mind I’ve never used a lathe before, all of this was a huge learning experience. My thanks to Tony for teaching me so much!
This pic shows the piece in progress - the bush on the front is for the regulator, the hole is for the supplied banjo bolt goes through the top, take off on the right for fitting a pressure gauge, if I choose to, later. Still to come - drill and tap a hole for the whistle valve.
Here it is fitted, with the valve.
The whistle itself we fitted underneath the cab.
It works! All the plumbing is fine. But, alas, it's a bit hissy. It sounds quite pure running on air (sorry, no video) just not so good on steam. Not sure why… Insufficient pressure? Condensation? The pipe runs inside the side tank where it’s presumably kept nice and warm, and though the valve weeps slightly, this should also help to keep the pipe warm.
Anyway, it's a whistle! It works! This is fun
- tom_tom_go
- Driver
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You are very fortunate to have someone who is willing to teach you to use a lathe, I would love that opportunity.
Regner whistles need to be mounted at a slight angle so that any water can pour out and also the whistle must not be touching anything as this can alter the tone. Any crap in the whistle from dirty water can change the tone as well so give it a blast out on air or carb cleaner.
Regner whistles need to be mounted at a slight angle so that any water can pour out and also the whistle must not be touching anything as this can alter the tone. Any crap in the whistle from dirty water can change the tone as well so give it a blast out on air or carb cleaner.
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