Time to build a railway...but where?

A place for the discussion of garden railways and any garden style/scale portable and/or indoor layouts
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LNR
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Post by LNR » Sun Nov 20, 2016 10:20 pm

Thanks Peter, your country's history has certainly provided many buildings of a very pleasing architectural appearance.
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Post by philipy » Mon Nov 21, 2016 7:41 am

Grant,
This shows the market hall ( known locally as the Town Hall ) in Deddington, Oxfordshire, a few miles from me. In overall shape it is closer to Peter's building than the LLanidloes one, although it is in brick rather than timber. The end bay has brick facings, because in the 1800's it was altered to house the local man-powered fire engine!
As Peter said, the market stalls would have been in the ground floor and the upper floor was variously, the trustee offices, meeting rooms etc. Originally built in the early 1600's it was rebuilt/refurbished in the early 1800's.

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Post by LNR » Mon Nov 21, 2016 8:45 am

Wonderful, thanks Philip, getting a history lesson as well. Did think it strange to have to carry goods of any description up stairs.
We have a very old and worn land, but a far more recent habitation, leads to an entirely different aspect to architecture. Our two landscapes couldn't be more different. Even though I have a love for corrugated iron and good stonework on a building, your stone, slate, brick, and flint buildings have a beauty of there own.
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Post by Peter Butler » Mon Nov 21, 2016 2:50 pm

philipy:120948 wrote:Peter,
Not being critical, but as one born and brought up in 'brick & flint land' ( The Chilterns) I'd say your chicken grit looks rather too pink in colour.
Hi Philip, this is the result.... what do you think?

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Post by philipy » Mon Nov 21, 2016 3:02 pm

Spot on Peter.
You were right, the brick colour and/or the SRB have lost the pink tinge.
Unfortunately colour judgement and the effects of mixing colours have never been my strongpoints. I can frequently see what needs to be corrected but rarely get the correction right.
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Post by Peter Butler » Mon Nov 21, 2016 3:12 pm

As previously said, I am an artist, not an engineer. One of my previous career activities was as a picture framer and paintings restorer which involved a lot of colour matching and ageing. All good experience for my present needs, otherwise useless!
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Post by Peter Butler » Mon Nov 21, 2016 7:38 pm

While I'm waiting for the flint effect to dry on the pub build I might just as well get started on another project.
Of the Pendle Valley resin kits I acquired I still have a few parts left over, some ends from the station building and one side from the engine shed. I have decided to make a small corner shop (stock to be decided) using the long shed side cut down in height and then in half, mitred at the ends and bonded to the station ends to form an almost square structure.
These have been epoxy glued together and held in some picture framing vices and clamps and allowed to set.....

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It is something I can do while the SBR is drying, which takes many hours and prevents me from turning the building in case everything falls off. Today I have managed to infill the panels on a second side of the pub but have to allow time before I chance another.
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Post by LNR » Mon Nov 21, 2016 11:56 pm

So now we know why your a genius with a paint brush (among many other things) Peter. Waiting for the next installment. Your town will be a thriving metropolis soon.
Grant.

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Post by Peter Butler » Fri Nov 25, 2016 2:27 pm

After a period of four days my patience has been rewarded by completing the 'flint' panels on my pub and allowing sufficient time for the SBR to dry and set firmly.
It was just a mad idea to use the chicken grit in the first place but I am well pleased with the end result as it certainly takes on the appearance of the real thing, which has a sharp and reflective surface and glistens in sunlight. I will have to wait several months to get the benefit of that!
The doors have been installed and painted, next will be the window frames then finally the slates.....

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My wife is delighted now I have finished..... she can have her kitchen table back!
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Post by SimonWood » Fri Nov 25, 2016 2:40 pm

Seeing the full effect of that - it's just incredible. You've surpassed your own incredibly high standards Peter. Bravo!
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Post by philipy » Fri Nov 25, 2016 3:44 pm

Truly excellent and inspiring, Peter.
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Post by LNR » Fri Nov 25, 2016 11:13 pm

I can only second what Simon and Philip have said, and I suspect the best is yet to come with signage and detail.
Grant.

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Post by markoteal » Sat Nov 26, 2016 9:17 pm

Again - quality modeling! Setting the standard as usual Peter
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Post by Peter Butler » Sat Nov 26, 2016 10:47 pm

Thank you guys, I am always grateful for your feedback. I was reminded today by posts from Philipy and Grant just how skilled others are on this Forum and that I have to somehow keep pace or be left behind. Since joining I have learned so much from others with far greater experience and knowledge of this highly specialised area of railway modelling. Long may it continue!
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Post by bazzer42 » Sun Nov 27, 2016 7:45 am

Another masterpiece in the making Peter, how do you mortar your bricks? Is it paint over and wipe off, looks really effective.

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Post by Peter Butler » Sun Nov 27, 2016 12:27 pm

Thanks Bazzer, the bricks are quite time consuming but worth the effort.... I have previously described the way I cut the bricks in strips with bevelled edges using a Stanley blade sideways drawn against a straight edge . Once the structure is ready for paint I use a light grey plastic primer which forms the mortar colour. The groove is deep enough for paint to be applied, using the dry-brush method, diagonally across the bricks. Avoid going with the grooves so that bristles don't drop paint where you don't want it.
Three slightly different colours have been applied to give some variety.
I hope that describes my method which works for me.
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Post by ge_rik » Tue Nov 29, 2016 8:21 am

Peter Butler:121042 wrote: By this evening I have managed to infill the panels on one face with my chicken grit held with SBR.  This must now be kept flat for at least 24hrs. so it can bond to the plasticard.  No pics. today but we will see tomorrow if it dries sufficiently?
Just wondering if you rough-up the surface of the plasticard before applying the SBR/grit mix? My plasticard seems to have a sheen to it.

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Post by Peter Butler » Tue Nov 29, 2016 9:29 am

Yes Rik, I scratch the plastic sheet with the edge of a Stanley knife blade to give a key for the SBR. I should have mentioned that earlier as it is an important part of the process..... sorry!
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Post by Peter Butler » Tue Nov 29, 2016 7:28 pm

Well, you're all too kind and understanding to keep quiet about the lack of chimneys on my pub.... but eventually I had to do something about it and they have now been fitted and primed.

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Also, I have spent many happy (?) hours marking out and cutting strips of black plasticard  to make slates.  A laborious and repetitive job but one which makes a quite effective roof when completed, and certainly much quicker than laying them individually.....

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Hopefully more progress to show tomorrow.
Last edited by Peter Butler on Thu Dec 01, 2016 9:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by Peter Butler » Thu Dec 01, 2016 7:47 pm

Here it is, almost finished except for the guttering and downspouts.....
The 'slates' and flashing are fitted using the strip method shown earlier.  This is a fast and effective way of covering a large area, it also keeps water
out of the structure so hopefully reduces the chances of windows becoming misted by moisture getting inside them.  I think condensation will still take place but don't know how to combat that one?
 
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Last edited by Peter Butler on Thu Dec 01, 2016 9:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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