Bolt together Mamod locomotive body.
- Tony Bird
- Trainee Driver
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- Joined: Thu Jul 29, 2010 8:25 am
- Location: Cardiff, South Wales, UK.
Bolt together Mamod locomotive body.
Hi,
Yesterday I had a bit of time and decided to finish the body on my BSA Mamod. As the Mamod locomotive as made has a lot of its body held together with 'Pop' rivets which make it a little difficult to work on. So if I am doing major work on a Mamod locomotive I usually drill out the 'Pop' rivets and replace them with 6BA/3mm nuts and bolts. First all the rivets are drilled out using the clearance size drill for the screws to be used 2.9/3.10mm. The smoke box rivets are usually replace by 5BA screws the smoke box being tapped for the screws and the hole in the boiler made larger to accommodate the screws, sometimes 6BA is used with a shouldered nut soldered inside the end of the boiler . As this boiler is a new hard soldered copper one the fixing points have been tapped 6BA. Regard the rest of the body just nuts and bolts are needed to attach the cab front to the foot plate. The four awkward ones are those that attach the cab front to the side tanks and the flame guard. For this bit it is helpful if you have access to a lathe to shoulder the nuts but I have used plain nuts soldered or glued in place. If shouldered nuts are being used the holes where they will fit are made larger I used a 4mm drill. The shouldered nuts are soft soldered in place if the model is to be repainted or glued (Standard Araldite) in place. I think I would always solder the nuts in the flame guard I used ordinary B&Q's plumbers solder and flux.
I hope the photographs show the process of fitting the nuts.
Regards Tony.
Yesterday I had a bit of time and decided to finish the body on my BSA Mamod. As the Mamod locomotive as made has a lot of its body held together with 'Pop' rivets which make it a little difficult to work on. So if I am doing major work on a Mamod locomotive I usually drill out the 'Pop' rivets and replace them with 6BA/3mm nuts and bolts. First all the rivets are drilled out using the clearance size drill for the screws to be used 2.9/3.10mm. The smoke box rivets are usually replace by 5BA screws the smoke box being tapped for the screws and the hole in the boiler made larger to accommodate the screws, sometimes 6BA is used with a shouldered nut soldered inside the end of the boiler . As this boiler is a new hard soldered copper one the fixing points have been tapped 6BA. Regard the rest of the body just nuts and bolts are needed to attach the cab front to the foot plate. The four awkward ones are those that attach the cab front to the side tanks and the flame guard. For this bit it is helpful if you have access to a lathe to shoulder the nuts but I have used plain nuts soldered or glued in place. If shouldered nuts are being used the holes where they will fit are made larger I used a 4mm drill. The shouldered nuts are soft soldered in place if the model is to be repainted or glued (Standard Araldite) in place. I think I would always solder the nuts in the flame guard I used ordinary B&Q's plumbers solder and flux.
I hope the photographs show the process of fitting the nuts.
Regards Tony.
- IrishPeter
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- Tony Bird
- Trainee Driver
- Posts: 570
- Joined: Thu Jul 29, 2010 8:25 am
- Location: Cardiff, South Wales, UK.
Hi Ted,
I'm curious though. If you're going through all this trouble, why not use (presumably far more common and easily attainable) M3 hardware rather than 6BA?
The reason for using 6 BA rather than M3 is that certainly the older Mamod locomotives and maybe the later ones use 6 BA. In this case as the model is being made from bits and pieces that I have has no existing screws. I could have used M3 but the buffer beams would have had to be tapped M3 or accept the use of different threads for the same size on the model.
Regards Tony.
I'm curious though. If you're going through all this trouble, why not use (presumably far more common and easily attainable) M3 hardware rather than 6BA?
The reason for using 6 BA rather than M3 is that certainly the older Mamod locomotives and maybe the later ones use 6 BA. In this case as the model is being made from bits and pieces that I have has no existing screws. I could have used M3 but the buffer beams would have had to be tapped M3 or accept the use of different threads for the same size on the model.
Regards Tony.
- Tony Bird
- Trainee Driver
- Posts: 570
- Joined: Thu Jul 29, 2010 8:25 am
- Location: Cardiff, South Wales, UK.
Hi,
I haven't done any work on this Mamod locomotive since the middle of December! When the chassis was run on air.
I started back on it yesterday When it looked like this.
The cab bits have been painted, a regulator has been part made, the steam and exhaust pipes have been fitted, a driver has been found and all the screws needed were cut to size and finished. So at end of play today the model looked like this.
To complete the model the regulator has to be finished, a lubricator made and fitted and a burner made.
Regards Tony.
I haven't done any work on this Mamod locomotive since the middle of December! When the chassis was run on air.
I started back on it yesterday When it looked like this.
The cab bits have been painted, a regulator has been part made, the steam and exhaust pipes have been fitted, a driver has been found and all the screws needed were cut to size and finished. So at end of play today the model looked like this.
To complete the model the regulator has to be finished, a lubricator made and fitted and a burner made.
Regards Tony.
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