Accucraft 7/8ths Ragleth 'Baldrig'
Looks good, I can't see any excess solder......tom_tom_go:106236 wrote: How do others solder really fine parts so it looks like as if it was simply glued into place?
When attaching small parts, I tin both parts first, put a bit of liquid flux in the joint and heat until I see any excess solder squeeze out of the joint. If possible, heat from the back. When it cools down I clean off any excess solder with a fibreglass brush (then pick the bits of glass out of my fingers with fine tweezers ).
it also helps in large scale to have a soldering iron that can generate a decent amount of heat. Mine is a 100W soldering station and with a 3mm chisel tip I can solder seams in 0.8mm brass bodywork with that. I had one person argue with me that you can do everything you need with a 25W iron. I can only assume he had never tried soldering a garden scale size body together.....
Regards,
Graeme
- Chris Cairns
- Driver
- Posts: 2366
- Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2007 7:25 pm
- Location: Glasgow, Scotland
Hopefully the Help & Advice theatres that were video'd at this year's Peterborough show will make it onto a 16mm NGM DVD at some point (MDLR?). I attended the Soldering theatre which included how to fit those small parts - the body kit being used in the demonstration was Brian's (MDLR).
Chris Cairns
Chris Cairns
- MDLR
- Driver
- Posts: 4027
- Joined: Thu Jan 15, 2009 10:38 pm
- Location: Near Ripley, Derbyshire, UK
- Contact:
The editing is ongoing as I type this - there was an awful lot to edit!
Now, a question for all you Accucraft owners. I'm an Accucraft virgin - always ran Roundhouse and Mamod in the past. With a Mamod, you watch it like a hawk. With a Roundhouse, if you start off with full gas and water, the gas runs out first with just a little water left in the boiler. I find that if I do this with the Baldrig, there's only about a syringe-and-a-bit of water used - I can happily get away with two fillings of gas without the water running dry. Is this to be expected?
Now, a question for all you Accucraft owners. I'm an Accucraft virgin - always ran Roundhouse and Mamod in the past. With a Mamod, you watch it like a hawk. With a Roundhouse, if you start off with full gas and water, the gas runs out first with just a little water left in the boiler. I find that if I do this with the Baldrig, there's only about a syringe-and-a-bit of water used - I can happily get away with two fillings of gas without the water running dry. Is this to be expected?
- tom_tom_go
- Driver
- Posts: 4824
- Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2011 3:08 am
- Location: Kent, UK
- Contact:
- St.Michael
- Fireman
- Posts: 343
- Joined: Tue May 08, 2012 9:13 pm
- Location: Norway
- tom_tom_go
- Driver
- Posts: 4824
- Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2011 3:08 am
- Location: Kent, UK
- Contact:
I have fitted TTD steam & gas valves, makes a big difference:
http://www.thetraindepartment.com/ttd-upgrade-valves/
The gas is very easy to adjust now and the regulator has much finer control.
Cheap upgrades, including shipping (from the US) was under £25.00
http://www.thetraindepartment.com/ttd-upgrade-valves/
The gas is very easy to adjust now and the regulator has much finer control.
Cheap upgrades, including shipping (from the US) was under £25.00
- Chris Cairns
- Driver
- Posts: 2366
- Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2007 7:25 pm
- Location: Glasgow, Scotland
Thanks very much for the link.tom_tom_go:106236 wrote:
I am using this guide for soft soldering:
http://www.steves-workshop.co.uk/tips/s ... gindex.htm
- tom_tom_go
- Driver
- Posts: 4824
- Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2011 3:08 am
- Location: Kent, UK
- Contact:
- tom_tom_go
- Driver
- Posts: 4824
- Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2011 3:08 am
- Location: Kent, UK
- Contact:
Time for R/C:
As I have replaced the regulator for one of TTD versions it should not take much effort to move it so the micro servo should be sufficient. Hopefully, I can get away with just using servo tape to attach the servo to the side of the frame.
I will drill a hole through the foot plate and modify the existing Accucraft regulator handle to take a linkage rod connector.
Giving Ripmax a go this time servo wise as this was cheaper than the Hitec equivalent and even has metal gears.
Safety valve bonnet on order from DJB as well.
As I have replaced the regulator for one of TTD versions it should not take much effort to move it so the micro servo should be sufficient. Hopefully, I can get away with just using servo tape to attach the servo to the side of the frame.
I will drill a hole through the foot plate and modify the existing Accucraft regulator handle to take a linkage rod connector.
Giving Ripmax a go this time servo wise as this was cheaper than the Hitec equivalent and even has metal gears.
Safety valve bonnet on order from DJB as well.
- Chris Cairns
- Driver
- Posts: 2366
- Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2007 7:25 pm
- Location: Glasgow, Scotland
- tom_tom_go
- Driver
- Posts: 4824
- Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2011 3:08 am
- Location: Kent, UK
- Contact:
Progressing with the body kit although I am still trying to perfect my soldering skills:
The mini blow torch I bought does not get the solder hot enough and cuts out so I have gone back to the larger Go-Gas torch although having to be careful not to get everything too hot.
Having a wet rag to hand to cool parts after soldering seems to help.
The mini blow torch I bought does not get the solder hot enough and cuts out so I have gone back to the larger Go-Gas torch although having to be careful not to get everything too hot.
Having a wet rag to hand to cool parts after soldering seems to help.
- tom_tom_go
- Driver
- Posts: 4824
- Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2011 3:08 am
- Location: Kent, UK
- Contact:
I think I am finally happy with all the R/C gear.
The charge socket is flat against the body so you cannot see it:
The regulator servo along with the receiver, battery pack and on/off/charge switch is all hidden below (took a while to figure out the positioning of components, however, nothing touches the loco body and it's been fine during testing with no loss of signal/overheating:
The charge socket is flat against the body so you cannot see it:
The regulator servo along with the receiver, battery pack and on/off/charge switch is all hidden below (took a while to figure out the positioning of components, however, nothing touches the loco body and it's been fine during testing with no loss of signal/overheating:
- St.Michael
- Fireman
- Posts: 343
- Joined: Tue May 08, 2012 9:13 pm
- Location: Norway
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests