Matt:97814 wrote:okay, i had to re-do the calculations for the efficiency values on the computer, as I've been using the wrong values for specific enthalpy at working pressure.
Glad I'm not the only one that used the wrong column in the steam table.......
Anyway.....
The only way I can think of to improve boiler efficiency would be to go to a more complex multi-tube boiler design, such as a full loco type boiler, or even a JVR type C, or a Briggs type (dry backhead type).
Insulation will make no measurable difference I think. Kozo Hiraoka has a short discussion on this in his first Shay book. He quotes figures for a 3.5" boiler insulated with 1/8" of asbestos (it's a '70s book....) and if you scale those to a Roundhouse size boiler, it will make maybe 0.5% improvement in efficiency.
I fitted 1/16" of insulation to the boiler on my Argyl Loco Philadelphia and the only difference I see is that the outside of the cleading stays a bit cooler. It doesn't come up to pressure noticeably faster, or give a longer run time.
A Taliesin boiler contains less water than the standard Roundhouse #1 boiler in a Lady Anne, but has the same burner and flue dia. so it will come up to temperature faster anyway. I see the reverse with my Roundhouse SRRL#24. It carries more water and takes a lot longer to come up to pressure, even though there is an air space between the boiler shell and the cleading.
The big railways had accountants who worried about fuel costs (and still do), but any improvement in boiler efficiency in a garden steam dragon is just a drop in the bucket, compared to the inefficiencies in the cylinders and valve gear.
Matt:97814 wrote:My supervisor is happy with the results I've got, and I'm now ready to starting writing up the final report.
In the final analysis that's the important thing. Good luck with your project report and final exams.
Regards,
Graeme