Mountaineer
Re: Mountaineer
Ooh thats very nice Steve. Love the lining. Do you have your own vinyl cutting m/c or do you go outside for it?
Philip
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Re: Mountaineer
That lining is incredible!
You will have to provide more information on how you achieved that. Is it another CNC machine to buy?
Trevor
You will have to provide more information on how you achieved that. Is it another CNC machine to buy?
Trevor
Re: Mountaineer
My questions are as above ......
ie How d'you do that then?
Rik
ie How d'you do that then?
Rik
- -steves-
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Re: Mountaineer
How to do that......
Get yourself a vinyl cutter, fortunately my wife has one called a "Cricut Maker 3". There are just cheaper ones out there for just cutting vinyl, but her one has all the bells and whistles on it, in this instance, the bells and whistles are not required, how odd for a loco hey!
Design your lines in CAD, preferably using the side of your loco as a template for the size, shape, etc.
Export as an SVG file which can be used for cutting, it only exports what is touching the build plate as it's a 2D image.
(Extra bit. I had to use Inkscape to change the colour of the lines as it seemed to export white on white, not very useful, resave the svg file)
Upload file into Cricut Design Space (that's specially used by Cricut machines, but there are other vinyl cutting programs out there which will do the same job)
Print the file onto whatever vinyl colour you like. Very carefully pick out the bits you DON'T need and discard. Put the remaining lines onto transfer tape (like Sellotape but in a much bigger, less sticky way)
Place on model in the exact right place, then extremely carefully remove transfer tape leaving the lines on the model. (sounds easier than it actually is).
Varnish with appropriate varnish to ensure nothing lifts and is smoother.
The pictures in my previous post show the latter part of this process once the lines are printed and applied.
Hope that helps explain the process??
Get yourself a vinyl cutter, fortunately my wife has one called a "Cricut Maker 3". There are just cheaper ones out there for just cutting vinyl, but her one has all the bells and whistles on it, in this instance, the bells and whistles are not required, how odd for a loco hey!
Design your lines in CAD, preferably using the side of your loco as a template for the size, shape, etc.
Export as an SVG file which can be used for cutting, it only exports what is touching the build plate as it's a 2D image.
(Extra bit. I had to use Inkscape to change the colour of the lines as it seemed to export white on white, not very useful, resave the svg file)
Upload file into Cricut Design Space (that's specially used by Cricut machines, but there are other vinyl cutting programs out there which will do the same job)
Print the file onto whatever vinyl colour you like. Very carefully pick out the bits you DON'T need and discard. Put the remaining lines onto transfer tape (like Sellotape but in a much bigger, less sticky way)
Place on model in the exact right place, then extremely carefully remove transfer tape leaving the lines on the model. (sounds easier than it actually is).
Varnish with appropriate varnish to ensure nothing lifts and is smoother.
The pictures in my previous post show the latter part of this process once the lines are printed and applied.
Hope that helps explain the process??
The buck stops here .......
Ditton Meadow Light Railway (DMLR)
Member of Peterborough and District Association
http://peterborough.16mm.org.uk/
Ditton Meadow Light Railway (DMLR)
Member of Peterborough and District Association
http://peterborough.16mm.org.uk/
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Re: Mountaineer
Wow - that is worth looking into.
The lining is far better than I can do by hand.
I particularly like the way the quarter circles in the corners are so perfect.
It looks as though the complex lining on Corris railway coaches (for example) - with all the intersecting celtic curls might be possible this way.
Trevor
The lining is far better than I can do by hand.
I particularly like the way the quarter circles in the corners are so perfect.
It looks as though the complex lining on Corris railway coaches (for example) - with all the intersecting celtic curls might be possible this way.
Trevor
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Re: Mountaineer
Certainly worth looking into. Obviously the smoother and flatter the surface it's going on to is, the the better the adhesive will hold it done. In my case with not a gram of filler, filler primer and not seen a bit of sandpaper in it's life, the adhesion can be a bit of an issue to get it from the transfer paper to the modelTrevor Thompson wrote: ↑Tue Feb 22, 2022 9:01 pm Wow - that is worth looking into.
It looks as though the complex lining on Corris railway coaches (for example) - with all the intersecting celtic curls might be possible this way.
Trevor
The buck stops here .......
Ditton Meadow Light Railway (DMLR)
Member of Peterborough and District Association
http://peterborough.16mm.org.uk/
Ditton Meadow Light Railway (DMLR)
Member of Peterborough and District Association
http://peterborough.16mm.org.uk/
Re: Mountaineer
Funnily enough I've been trying to remember something I read about ages ago, about converting 3d printers. My memory was telling me it was about fitting a laser cutter head, not vinyl cutter, but same principle.
Philip
Re: Mountaineer
Really impressed by the lining. I've been contemplating one of these cutters for a while (it's on the list of desired gadgets along with a with a resin printer!)
Are you able to cut lettering with it?
Are you able to cut lettering with it?
- -steves-
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Re: Mountaineer
Yes, it can cut any shape that can be designed in CAD. I can cut down to about 0.5mm lines, but they are a little difficult to put on things and to "weed" (pick out the bits you don't want)
The buck stops here .......
Ditton Meadow Light Railway (DMLR)
Member of Peterborough and District Association
http://peterborough.16mm.org.uk/
Ditton Meadow Light Railway (DMLR)
Member of Peterborough and District Association
http://peterborough.16mm.org.uk/
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Re: Mountaineer
Ok, I think I have gone too far now, these lines are 0.75mm wide, I agree, the design us a little long, I will know for next time.
The buck stops here .......
Ditton Meadow Light Railway (DMLR)
Member of Peterborough and District Association
http://peterborough.16mm.org.uk/
Ditton Meadow Light Railway (DMLR)
Member of Peterborough and District Association
http://peterborough.16mm.org.uk/
Re: Mountaineer
That looks Ok to me Steve, but am I correct in thinking this would only really work for one-colour lining? I realise that in theory you could cut say, a white line and two matching outer black lines, but I can't imagine even trying to get them all lined up!
Philip
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Re: Mountaineer
Yes and no. It's far easier to do single colour lines that's for sure. If you wanted say a red line next to a white line, you could CAD them up next to each other to ensure correct sizing, then separate them for printing, then put them on the same transfer tape (with very careful positioning) and put them on the model as one. That is one of the things my wife wants to try next.
If you wanted a gold line with a black line inside it, again, same theory, but just put the black line on a wider gold line and on the transfer tape. again, goes on the model as one.
The buck stops here .......
Ditton Meadow Light Railway (DMLR)
Member of Peterborough and District Association
http://peterborough.16mm.org.uk/
Ditton Meadow Light Railway (DMLR)
Member of Peterborough and District Association
http://peterborough.16mm.org.uk/
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Re: Mountaineer
I have been looking at the photo with Little Wonder in the background - and wondered about your handrails. Then I looked again at the final photos of Mountaineer, again it was the handrails I noticed.
I printed the handrails on Welsh Pony on the resin printer - as one unit handrails and mounting knobs. They are so easily bent and damaged that I am looking for a better way of making the handrails.
So it looks like you are printing the knobs, and using rod for the handrail - which seems a better method.
I would like to know a bit more about exactly what you find works best.
Trevor
I printed the handrails on Welsh Pony on the resin printer - as one unit handrails and mounting knobs. They are so easily bent and damaged that I am looking for a better way of making the handrails.
So it looks like you are printing the knobs, and using rod for the handrail - which seems a better method.
I would like to know a bit more about exactly what you find works best.
Trevor
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Re: Mountaineer
Yes I print the knobs and use a metal rod. The main thing is to make sure to use as larger "bit" as possible (the bit that goes from the knob into the body work). The larger that is, the less chance of it breaking, as I used to have the same issue with them breaking off where they went into the body work, they do seem significantly better now and I have not managed to break one as yet.Trevor Thompson wrote: ↑Mon Feb 28, 2022 9:45 am I have been looking at the photo with Little Wonder in the background - and wondered about your handrails. Then I looked again at the final photos of Mountaineer, again it was the handrails I noticed.
I printed the handrails on Welsh Pony on the resin printer - as one unit handrails and mounting knobs. They are so easily bent and damaged that I am looking for a better way of making the handrails.
So it looks like you are printing the knobs, and using rod for the handrail - which seems a better method.
I would like to know a bit more about exactly what you find works best.
Trevor
The buck stops here .......
Ditton Meadow Light Railway (DMLR)
Member of Peterborough and District Association
http://peterborough.16mm.org.uk/
Ditton Meadow Light Railway (DMLR)
Member of Peterborough and District Association
http://peterborough.16mm.org.uk/
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Re: Mountaineer
Many thanks
I will try the same approach
Trevor
I will try the same approach
Trevor
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