3 D Printing 16mm models
Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
I've just found two more victorian ladies on Thingiverse. One from the same person as before and one that has been there for years apparently and looks superb.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4696025
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1093427
Plus I found a victorian man... looks a bit like Abraham Lincoln to me, but who knows! He's a bit small, but looks as though he would scale up ok in the slicer.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3412585
I also found a 1936 BSA motorbike for anyone who might be interested.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2492393/files
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4696025
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1093427
Plus I found a victorian man... looks a bit like Abraham Lincoln to me, but who knows! He's a bit small, but looks as though he would scale up ok in the slicer.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3412585
I also found a 1936 BSA motorbike for anyone who might be interested.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2492393/files
Philip
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Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
Now here is a conundrum which I am sure someone will help me solve!
The last photo I shared of the two women didn't highlight a problem which I have just realised is actually there. The thingyverse woman is brilliant. Printed out superbly. As you all said the definition is superb. But look closer at the seated figure. Her face is just a tube or bar with the nose sticking out. At first I dismissed it thinking well I didn't notice that the headgear I added to the figure incorporated a veil.
So lets explore it in a bit more detail: I have not removed all of the supports and the parasol is bent - but otherwise pretty good. That shows that the machine can get the neck and face correct!
Now look at the seated figure in more detail: The neck and face is in a tube - or rod. This is a figure I created of course.
Now look at the next figure I tried. It is an attempt at a station master or guard. Firstly two prints of it, the brown ones from the filament printer and the clear one from the resin printer:
While the brown figure is rough (as expected from a filament printer) the face and neck is correct. The figure from the resin printer on the other hand has that same issue with the neck and face.
Just for completeness here is the figure in the resin printers slicing software, really to slice:
When I look at the preview of the sliced figure I cant see a thinner area where the neck would be - so the preview seems to show what has printed.
What am I doing wrong?
Trevor
The last photo I shared of the two women didn't highlight a problem which I have just realised is actually there. The thingyverse woman is brilliant. Printed out superbly. As you all said the definition is superb. But look closer at the seated figure. Her face is just a tube or bar with the nose sticking out. At first I dismissed it thinking well I didn't notice that the headgear I added to the figure incorporated a veil.
So lets explore it in a bit more detail: I have not removed all of the supports and the parasol is bent - but otherwise pretty good. That shows that the machine can get the neck and face correct!
Now look at the seated figure in more detail: The neck and face is in a tube - or rod. This is a figure I created of course.
Now look at the next figure I tried. It is an attempt at a station master or guard. Firstly two prints of it, the brown ones from the filament printer and the clear one from the resin printer:
While the brown figure is rough (as expected from a filament printer) the face and neck is correct. The figure from the resin printer on the other hand has that same issue with the neck and face.
Just for completeness here is the figure in the resin printers slicing software, really to slice:
When I look at the preview of the sliced figure I cant see a thinner area where the neck would be - so the preview seems to show what has printed.
What am I doing wrong?
Trevor
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Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
Yes, I did look at the original picture and thought the face looked a bit odd.
As for what you are doing wrong, I THINK it may be the same problem that I had with the supports on my slate wagon. i.e the supports are to close to the model and the resin has bridged the gap and solidified.
Not sure if you used auto-supports or did them manually? Either way you need to move them, if I'm correct. You sem to be using the Anycubic slicer? Some reviews suggest it has bugs, which may be part of your problem but I really don't know. I'm using Chitubox and for that, there is a very good series of Youtube video's which explains about the process. He is into weird and wacky gaming figures but the process is the same. I think there are 2 or 3 video's that go into supporting.
Part 1: Intro to Chitubox and supporting minis like a pro. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TTZpvhfaNWY
Philip
Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
The Thingiverse search function is useless, very pedantic and precise on its use of wording but then it finds all sorts of irreleavnt stuff because one word is the same! The problem is that people give their files names which aren't necessarily what anyone else would look for. However, I found the original link I posted previously purely by accident. Can't remember exactly how, I was probably just random browsing recent uploads.Trevor Thompson wrote: ↑Mon Dec 28, 2020 1:22 pm
I keep looking on thingyverse - but I haven't seen any of this!
This morning I thought I'd have a look to see if I could find anything else but I couldn't remember what the original one was actually called, so I searched for "victorian lady" and lo and behold those two popped up. So I then searched for 'victorian man' and found the male figure. Then I tried "edwardian" and got nothing so I tried "vintage" and eventually got the motorbike. Vintage also has a few other bits and pieces, a quite nice looking Vespa scooter for one and a Fiat 500 car.
Philip
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Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
Although not ideal, I print all my resin figures on their back, I have tried other methods and found there to be a number of issues, mainly with auto support, which is not just bad, it's so bad that some people won't even use it, they add all their own manual supports.
On their back they print faster and the front always comes out perfect, though you do have to do a little work on their backs to remove all the support pin holes, but for me, well worth the effort. Same printer, great choice
On their back they print faster and the front always comes out perfect, though you do have to do a little work on their backs to remove all the support pin holes, but for me, well worth the effort. Same printer, great choice
The buck stops here .......
Ditton Meadow Light Railway (DMLR)
Member of Peterborough and District Association
http://peterborough.16mm.org.uk/
Ditton Meadow Light Railway (DMLR)
Member of Peterborough and District Association
http://peterborough.16mm.org.uk/
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Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
Thanks for all the help - I will try the suggestions and report when I succeed.
Trevor
Trevor
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Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
I have been working on the goods shed.
Slight change of plan. A Christmass present revealed new information about the way goods wagons were handled at Tan-y-Bwlch. To cut to the point they entered the goods shed under gravity, and left through a second door again under gravity.
So a door at each end, and I will try to install it in the loop when the weather improves.
Part of the rear wall came out reasonably easily, and a new doorway was fitted. I added doublers to stiffen the doorways, and triangular pieces to support the end walls:
As the mock stonework dries I am adding the door runners:
The door is just resting in place. And of course another of those victorian ladies (from Thingiverse) is standing in the foreground.
I am out of gray filament - which explains the brown bits. Just waiting for the usual suppliers to get more ABS, before I can print the roof (I'm out of black as well).
It seems that my problem with the figures on the resin printer were to do with the supports being too thick. I am now printing the third victorian lady on her back - we will see how that works later.
Trevor
Slight change of plan. A Christmass present revealed new information about the way goods wagons were handled at Tan-y-Bwlch. To cut to the point they entered the goods shed under gravity, and left through a second door again under gravity.
So a door at each end, and I will try to install it in the loop when the weather improves.
Part of the rear wall came out reasonably easily, and a new doorway was fitted. I added doublers to stiffen the doorways, and triangular pieces to support the end walls:
As the mock stonework dries I am adding the door runners:
The door is just resting in place. And of course another of those victorian ladies (from Thingiverse) is standing in the foreground.
I am out of gray filament - which explains the brown bits. Just waiting for the usual suppliers to get more ABS, before I can print the roof (I'm out of black as well).
It seems that my problem with the figures on the resin printer were to do with the supports being too thick. I am now printing the third victorian lady on her back - we will see how that works later.
Trevor
Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
That stonework looks good. Did you have to draw it from scratch or is it available as a texture in Sketchup?
Rik
Rik
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Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
Nothing as sophisticated as that! I used a Bromley crafts mylar template and coloured tile grout to create the stonework. I suppose I should try to do it in sketch-up.
Trevor
Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
Well, no matter how - it does look good.Trevor Thompson wrote: ↑Wed Dec 30, 2020 3:48 pm Nothing as sophisticated as that! I used a Bromley crafts mylar template and coloured tile grout to create the stonework. I suppose I should try to do it in sketch-up.
Trevor
Rik
Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
Having read this, it prompted me to upload my platform face stl's, which I've been meaning to do for ages. You might be able to stack them to make a taller wall, although that might be easier in SketchUp than using the stl's. Let me know if you want the original files.
Philip
Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
There are brick and stonework textures in TinkerCAD, but I've not had a chance to play with them yet.
Rik
Rik
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Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
I have looked at Sketchup and it has "textures" for brickwork and the like but they are just flat images - cant find anything like what Tinkercad can do.
Anyway back to the figures.
I have tried printing them on their back and had a rather impressive failure. The issue was that the supports were rather delicate and the large flat area being exposed seemed to prefer to stick to the bottom of the tank rather than the supports. So if that technique is to be pursued I need to pay more attention to how the layers will develop.
I have successfully printed the three victorian women from Thingiverse - and finished two of them. The seated figure has had its face chilled a bit - and I think it will suffice to sit in an Ashbury 3rd coach where you won't really notice the detail:
I am pleased with the end result. I had a problem with an arm missing from one of them the first time I printed it. The issue there seems to be the automatic supports. One arm had no supports at all and that is the one which failed. So I am now manually adding supports to everything. The tubular faces seems to have been resolved by manual supports - as suggested the thick supports were overlapping.
There is a figure prepared in Makehuman and Blender which is printing at this moment - and I am hoping that will work as well with manual supports. Fingers crossed! Trevor
Anyway back to the figures.
I have tried printing them on their back and had a rather impressive failure. The issue was that the supports were rather delicate and the large flat area being exposed seemed to prefer to stick to the bottom of the tank rather than the supports. So if that technique is to be pursued I need to pay more attention to how the layers will develop.
I have successfully printed the three victorian women from Thingiverse - and finished two of them. The seated figure has had its face chilled a bit - and I think it will suffice to sit in an Ashbury 3rd coach where you won't really notice the detail:
I am pleased with the end result. I had a problem with an arm missing from one of them the first time I printed it. The issue there seems to be the automatic supports. One arm had no supports at all and that is the one which failed. So I am now manually adding supports to everything. The tubular faces seems to have been resolved by manual supports - as suggested the thick supports were overlapping.
There is a figure prepared in Makehuman and Blender which is printing at this moment - and I am hoping that will work as well with manual supports. Fingers crossed! Trevor
Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
They look pretty darned good to me. Though the seated lady does remind me of the ghost of the Ghost of Christmas Yet to Come a bit .....
Rik
Rik
Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
AFAIK, Sketchup doesn't "do" 3d textures, just, as you say, pictures to wrap around a model to give the graphic impression of an architectural model.Trevor Thompson wrote: ↑Thu Dec 31, 2020 2:58 pm I have looked at Sketchup and it has "textures" for brickwork and the like but they are just flat images - cant find anything like what Tinkercad can do.
I don't know if there might be anything in their "3-D warehouse" but if so, whatever there is would need serious surgery to make it fit a specific building, i think.
Philip
Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
How did you do your platform edging?philipy wrote: ↑Thu Dec 31, 2020 3:48 pm AFAIK, Sketchup doesn't "do" 3d textures, just, as you say, pictures to wrap around a model to give the graphic impression of an architectural model.
I don't know if there might be anything in their "3-D warehouse" but if so, whatever there is would need serious surgery to make it fit a specific building, i think.
R
Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
In Sketchup, I drew a suitable sized rectangle for one slab and extruded it to the required thickness. Multiplied it and extruded the connecting strip through the centre of the set. Then manually rounded and/or chipped the edges of each slab randomly.
When it was all glued to the rest of the foamboard platform substructure it was sprayed with primer and then painted with a textured stone paint and washed with diluted assorted brownish/yellowish/greyish acrylics.
FWIW, I did the same thing with small square blocks to form the back edge of the platform to retain the platform surface which is Postcrete sitting inbewteen the blocks.
Philip
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Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
I think I have mastered the issue of printing stuff downloaded from Thingiverse.
I thought I might have sorted the problem with the figures from Makehuman/Blender. But I have not. I am still getting the same problem of tubular faces.
It might still be that the slicing software is adding thicker supports than I thought it was. I have printed a sitting figure, and chipped away at the tubular face. I think that the real face is underneath the tube. It is difficult to be sure but here is a photo for you to make your own mind up:
As an asideI wondered if the problem was holes in the mesh. I imported the .stl files produced by Blender into Flashprint. This has a good repair facility - so I let it repair the file and I re-exported it as an .stl file. This I used to slice it in the photon slicing software. I added manual supports. That resulted in the print in the photo above.
I am going to try printing one of these figures with no supports to see what happens. I could also try it on its back again or perhaps at an angle.
If neither of those makes any difference I might have to try different slicing software.
Clutching at straws really. Any ideas gratefully received!
Trevor
I thought I might have sorted the problem with the figures from Makehuman/Blender. But I have not. I am still getting the same problem of tubular faces.
It might still be that the slicing software is adding thicker supports than I thought it was. I have printed a sitting figure, and chipped away at the tubular face. I think that the real face is underneath the tube. It is difficult to be sure but here is a photo for you to make your own mind up:
As an asideI wondered if the problem was holes in the mesh. I imported the .stl files produced by Blender into Flashprint. This has a good repair facility - so I let it repair the file and I re-exported it as an .stl file. This I used to slice it in the photon slicing software. I added manual supports. That resulted in the print in the photo above.
I am going to try printing one of these figures with no supports to see what happens. I could also try it on its back again or perhaps at an angle.
If neither of those makes any difference I might have to try different slicing software.
Clutching at straws really. Any ideas gratefully received!
Trevor
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