3 D Printing 16mm models
Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
It looks just so brilliant in the one colour now Trevor....Well done indeed.
And I love your horse also....
And I love your horse also....
ROD
Life is so easy when I run my trains.
https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364
https://www.youtube.com/@fairywoodlightrailway
Life is so easy when I run my trains.
https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364
https://www.youtube.com/@fairywoodlightrailway
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Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
On to the next Project!
The only major part of Tan-Bwlch which I have yet to create is the Goods shed.
There have been some comments about build area - bear in mind that my printer only handles 150 x 150 x 150 mm.
So I thought it might be worth sharing with you the detail of how I am planning to make a building which has a footprint of 320mm by 200 mm.
So a screen shot with a load of different colours:
Each colour represents a different component. So this will need 16 different components to be printed.
Now you may well ask why bother to make flat plates on a printer when I could just make it from sheets of HIP. My answer starts with the fact that I have the filament in stock, and if I were to make it from sheet I would have to buy that specifically for this job. Next I have to add that I can make it 5 mm or even 10mm thick - and 5 mm which sheet would be expensive - more than the £15 I pay for a reel of filament.
So the sides and front and back will be flat sheets printed at the lowest definition setting and with 25% infil. The roof will be slightly more complex.
I am trying to make the roof with the slates printed into it. Here is the drawing so far:
The builders are currently making the new slated roof on the cottage and of course I have been watching them! So the bottom layer of slates on this roof (small ladies by the way) fit with joints on the joints in the three roof sections. Of course the next layer up which has wide ladies at each end (1.5 times the width of small ladies) make a slate straddle the joint in the roof panels. I am in the process of creating half slates for each side of this joint. I am hoping that the joints in every alternate layer will not be obvious.
The alternative would be to print individual slates and stick each one down . Can do that as I have created a stack of individual slates as a wagon load which split into individual slates. That is the reserve option. Its in reserve because I think I can line the slates up better the first way.
Trevor
The only major part of Tan-Bwlch which I have yet to create is the Goods shed.
There have been some comments about build area - bear in mind that my printer only handles 150 x 150 x 150 mm.
So I thought it might be worth sharing with you the detail of how I am planning to make a building which has a footprint of 320mm by 200 mm.
So a screen shot with a load of different colours:
Each colour represents a different component. So this will need 16 different components to be printed.
Now you may well ask why bother to make flat plates on a printer when I could just make it from sheets of HIP. My answer starts with the fact that I have the filament in stock, and if I were to make it from sheet I would have to buy that specifically for this job. Next I have to add that I can make it 5 mm or even 10mm thick - and 5 mm which sheet would be expensive - more than the £15 I pay for a reel of filament.
So the sides and front and back will be flat sheets printed at the lowest definition setting and with 25% infil. The roof will be slightly more complex.
I am trying to make the roof with the slates printed into it. Here is the drawing so far:
The builders are currently making the new slated roof on the cottage and of course I have been watching them! So the bottom layer of slates on this roof (small ladies by the way) fit with joints on the joints in the three roof sections. Of course the next layer up which has wide ladies at each end (1.5 times the width of small ladies) make a slate straddle the joint in the roof panels. I am in the process of creating half slates for each side of this joint. I am hoping that the joints in every alternate layer will not be obvious.
The alternative would be to print individual slates and stick each one down . Can do that as I have created a stack of individual slates as a wagon load which split into individual slates. That is the reserve option. Its in reserve because I think I can line the slates up better the first way.
Trevor
Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
That is a very interesting build Trevor. Will be watching this very carefully..
Where do you buy your'e filament from please.
Where do you buy your'e filament from please.
ROD
Life is so easy when I run my trains.
https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364
https://www.youtube.com/@fairywoodlightrailway
Life is so easy when I run my trains.
https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364
https://www.youtube.com/@fairywoodlightrailway
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Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
I get my filament from eBay, and specifically this seller:
I have found it to be consistent and that all the colours I have bought actually work equally well.
Trevor
I have found it to be consistent and that all the colours I have bought actually work equally well.
Trevor
Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
I generally get mine from Amazon ( only to take advantage of my wife's Prime account with next day delivery) and get whatever is cheapest and/or fastest delivery at the time. I've never noticed any printing differences.
Philip
Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
Thanks guys. I can't find your seller though Trevor..
ROD
Life is so easy when I run my trains.
https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364
https://www.youtube.com/@fairywoodlightrailway
Life is so easy when I run my trains.
https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364
https://www.youtube.com/@fairywoodlightrailway
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Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
That is what I do too. Just look for the cheapest on Amazon, don't care what colour or make. All the ones I have had so far print just the same, though saying that the last batch I had to increase the temp by 5 degrees yesterday just to get a better consistent flow.
The buck stops here .......
Ditton Meadow Light Railway (DMLR)
Member of Peterborough and District Association
http://peterborough.16mm.org.uk/
Ditton Meadow Light Railway (DMLR)
Member of Peterborough and District Association
http://peterborough.16mm.org.uk/
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Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
I have been printing the the sides and ends of the building. So far 3 side panels, and all 6 end panels have been printed. Just to show toy how much of these pieces are air - look at this:
That honeycomb is very open 10% infil - so I am not actually using that much filament. You cant do that with sheet material!
The biggest difficulty is minimising distortion as it cools and then while I glue the bits together - flat on a table and using clamps to hold everything down.
So the building as of tonight:
You can see the diagonal lines on the outside. That is the bottom of the raft. It is pretty firmly stuck to the print - so I am leaving it in place. I have just used a knife to remove the edges of the raft. I think that the rough surface will be better for adding the wall tile adhesive to. We will see!
That honeycomb is very open 10% infil - so I am not actually using that much filament. You cant do that with sheet material!
The biggest difficulty is minimising distortion as it cools and then while I glue the bits together - flat on a table and using clamps to hold everything down.
So the building as of tonight:
You can see the diagonal lines on the outside. That is the bottom of the raft. It is pretty firmly stuck to the print - so I am leaving it in place. I have just used a knife to remove the edges of the raft. I think that the rough surface will be better for adding the wall tile adhesive to. We will see!
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Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
I now have all the components for the walls printed. Interestingly about £9 worth of filament and 36 hours printing time. So I think it would be difficult to make it from anything else at a lower cost. While this has been printing I have been working on the live steam Garratt (as you might already have seen) so the printing time isn't really relevant - not at 150 watts anyway.
To try to keep the wall flat when I bonded it together I used clamps:
And I now have two ends connected to one side:
There is some distortion in the building at the moment. I have probably been taking the prints off the bed before they have properly cooled. I think that can be corrected tomorrow when the final side is added.
To try to keep the wall flat when I bonded it together I used clamps:
And I now have two ends connected to one side:
There is some distortion in the building at the moment. I have probably been taking the prints off the bed before they have properly cooled. I think that can be corrected tomorrow when the final side is added.
Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
Glad I'm not the only one....Trevor Thompson wrote: ↑Wed Dec 23, 2020 7:33 pm I have probably been taking the prints off the bed before they have properly cooled.
Philip
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Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
I would never do such a thing.philipy wrote: ↑Wed Dec 23, 2020 9:14 pmGlad I'm not the only one....Trevor Thompson wrote: ↑Wed Dec 23, 2020 7:33 pm I have probably been taking the prints off the bed before they have properly cooled.
Without bending it back into shape straight after, lol.
The buck stops here .......
Ditton Meadow Light Railway (DMLR)
Member of Peterborough and District Association
http://peterborough.16mm.org.uk/
Ditton Meadow Light Railway (DMLR)
Member of Peterborough and District Association
http://peterborough.16mm.org.uk/
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Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
And now for a new toy:
and the first print:
and finally the first seated figure care of "Makehuman" and "Blender" on Philips bench:
Trevor
and the first print:
and finally the first seated figure care of "Makehuman" and "Blender" on Philips bench:
Trevor
Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
Wow! That looks good. The definition is so clear!
Rik
Rik
Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
I've just found two more victorian ladies on Thingiverse. One from the same person as before and one that has been there for years apparently and looks superb.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4696025
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1093427
Plus I found a victorian man... looks a bit like Abraham Lincoln to me, but who knows! He's a bit small, but looks as though he would scale up ok in the slicer.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3412585
I also found a 1936 BSA motorbike for anyone who might be interested.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2492393/files
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4696025
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1093427
Plus I found a victorian man... looks a bit like Abraham Lincoln to me, but who knows! He's a bit small, but looks as though he would scale up ok in the slicer.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3412585
I also found a 1936 BSA motorbike for anyone who might be interested.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2492393/files
Philip
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Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
Now here is a conundrum which I am sure someone will help me solve!
The last photo I shared of the two women didn't highlight a problem which I have just realised is actually there. The thingyverse woman is brilliant. Printed out superbly. As you all said the definition is superb. But look closer at the seated figure. Her face is just a tube or bar with the nose sticking out. At first I dismissed it thinking well I didn't notice that the headgear I added to the figure incorporated a veil.
So lets explore it in a bit more detail: I have not removed all of the supports and the parasol is bent - but otherwise pretty good. That shows that the machine can get the neck and face correct!
Now look at the seated figure in more detail: The neck and face is in a tube - or rod. This is a figure I created of course.
Now look at the next figure I tried. It is an attempt at a station master or guard. Firstly two prints of it, the brown ones from the filament printer and the clear one from the resin printer:
While the brown figure is rough (as expected from a filament printer) the face and neck is correct. The figure from the resin printer on the other hand has that same issue with the neck and face.
Just for completeness here is the figure in the resin printers slicing software, really to slice:
When I look at the preview of the sliced figure I cant see a thinner area where the neck would be - so the preview seems to show what has printed.
What am I doing wrong?
Trevor
The last photo I shared of the two women didn't highlight a problem which I have just realised is actually there. The thingyverse woman is brilliant. Printed out superbly. As you all said the definition is superb. But look closer at the seated figure. Her face is just a tube or bar with the nose sticking out. At first I dismissed it thinking well I didn't notice that the headgear I added to the figure incorporated a veil.
So lets explore it in a bit more detail: I have not removed all of the supports and the parasol is bent - but otherwise pretty good. That shows that the machine can get the neck and face correct!
Now look at the seated figure in more detail: The neck and face is in a tube - or rod. This is a figure I created of course.
Now look at the next figure I tried. It is an attempt at a station master or guard. Firstly two prints of it, the brown ones from the filament printer and the clear one from the resin printer:
While the brown figure is rough (as expected from a filament printer) the face and neck is correct. The figure from the resin printer on the other hand has that same issue with the neck and face.
Just for completeness here is the figure in the resin printers slicing software, really to slice:
When I look at the preview of the sliced figure I cant see a thinner area where the neck would be - so the preview seems to show what has printed.
What am I doing wrong?
Trevor
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Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
Yes, I did look at the original picture and thought the face looked a bit odd.
As for what you are doing wrong, I THINK it may be the same problem that I had with the supports on my slate wagon. i.e the supports are to close to the model and the resin has bridged the gap and solidified.
Not sure if you used auto-supports or did them manually? Either way you need to move them, if I'm correct. You sem to be using the Anycubic slicer? Some reviews suggest it has bugs, which may be part of your problem but I really don't know. I'm using Chitubox and for that, there is a very good series of Youtube video's which explains about the process. He is into weird and wacky gaming figures but the process is the same. I think there are 2 or 3 video's that go into supporting.
Part 1: Intro to Chitubox and supporting minis like a pro. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TTZpvhfaNWY
Philip
Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
The Thingiverse search function is useless, very pedantic and precise on its use of wording but then it finds all sorts of irreleavnt stuff because one word is the same! The problem is that people give their files names which aren't necessarily what anyone else would look for. However, I found the original link I posted previously purely by accident. Can't remember exactly how, I was probably just random browsing recent uploads.Trevor Thompson wrote: ↑Mon Dec 28, 2020 1:22 pm
I keep looking on thingyverse - but I haven't seen any of this!
This morning I thought I'd have a look to see if I could find anything else but I couldn't remember what the original one was actually called, so I searched for "victorian lady" and lo and behold those two popped up. So I then searched for 'victorian man' and found the male figure. Then I tried "edwardian" and got nothing so I tried "vintage" and eventually got the motorbike. Vintage also has a few other bits and pieces, a quite nice looking Vespa scooter for one and a Fiat 500 car.
Philip
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