The thickness may become more obvious once you've painted and weathered the roof and paint has settled into the joints.Trevor Thompson wrote: ↑Mon Jan 11, 2021 8:55 pm
The roof slates are actually to scale. However the thickness isn't making the steps in the roof very obvious. It is a case where making something oversize is necessary to make it look right. So if I make a roof like this again I will overemphasise the thickness of the slates.
Life is so easy when I run my trains.
https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364
I have been running 4415 on my 1 in 60 main line. With a reasonably heavy rake of slate wagons I am getting much wheel slipping.Trevor Thompson wrote: ↑Mon Sep 14, 2020 11:37 amAn update on finishing off 4415
And now 4415. I have added the lettering and the makers plate. The lettering is hand painted - and I have done better, but it will suffice. The surface finish on some of the panels is not perfect, and I may yet go back and try different print settings. I suspect more solid layers on the outer surfaces may improve the surface finish. Anyway as a project it is finished and it works:
So I am adding weights (low down) and in a way which avoids opening up the body - and risking damage to the paintwork.
I have made a dozen holders to take 10mm diameter lengths of brass rod, on the printer, and parted off 4 off 70mm, and 2 off 80mm lengths.
Here are two of the rods and their holders, plus one weight ready to fit.
I have bonded the 70mm lengths under the footplate on the outside edges, and the 80mm lengths across the ends.
Having just come in from testing it I can confirm that the slipping is now gone (with the same rake as before).
Just got to do something similar to Welsh Pony!
Thank you Trevor for your tenacity.
A few questions:
Have I got it correct?
If you were to print (fdm) a 2mm thick flat object ; it would print as a bottom 'skin', edges, some sort of support matrix, and a top skin/surface?
Can you get flat sheets (like plastucard) of the materials that fdm printers use?
Would it be possible, to print onto a flat sheet of the same material (if it is available)? - I am wondering if it would be possible to print detail onto a manufactured flat surface?
And finally :
Are there threads on the Forum, discussing other 'machines', and what they can do etc?
Vinyl / silhouette cutters.
Mill / drill /router
Hobby-size laser cutter
DRO - what /how to use. Versus CNC..
A lot to ask, I know, but I feel I could justify some machines, if I had a better idea if they could be made to do what I want.
Yes thats a fair summary. However, the number of layers and skins , not to mention the thickness of those layers and the density of the infill are all variable, so that it can in theory be printed as flimsy or as solid as you want.
There are very many fdm filament materials, including HIPS( Plasticard) and ABS, PetG, Nylon, etc so the answer to that question is a qualified yes. Although personally I use mostly PLA which isn't available in sheet form as far as I know
It would be a bit of a pain to set the printer up to do that because it would effectively shift the Z coordinates. Also I'm not sure why you would want to do that? It would be simpler to just print the complete thickness, or if you are thinking of say, a rivetted wagon strap, simply print the strap and glue it on ( which I've done a number of times)
There has been some mention of laser cutting, and of course lathe work to some extent. Best thing is to use the Search function.
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I think that depends on the setup of the printer. On my printers, which both have a BLTouch fitted, a sheet could easily be printed on to as the Z axis automatically sets itself up with each print. The only thing you would have to do is ensure good adhesion from the bed to the sheet of "plastic" and make sure the sheet up was to temperature before printing. All a very simple process but I agree with Philip in that in reality I would either print the entire thing or use a sheet of plastic and just add printed detailing to it.philipy wrote: ↑Fri Jul 30, 2021 12:07 pmIt would be a bit of a pain to set the printer up to do that because it would effectively shift the Z coordinates. Also I'm not sure why you would want to do that? It would be simpler to just print the complete thickness, or if you are thinking of say, a rivetted wagon strap, simply print the strap and glue it on ( which I've done a number of times)
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