Mamod Locomotive
- Tony Bird
- Trainee Driver
- Posts: 570
- Joined: Thu Jul 29, 2010 8:25 am
- Location: Cardiff, South Wales, UK.
Hi,
I haven't decided decided on how or where the lubricator will be fixed, there isn't much room on the footplate. So while I have been cogitating the regulator has been partly made and fitted.
The connections for a pressure gauge and the regulator valve have been blanked off. Initially the reversing valve will be used to regulate the steam.
A meths burn has been made as it didn't seem practical to fit a ceramic burner as a flexible gas pipe would be needed. Years ago when the only real alternative to solid fuel was meths, Merlin did make and supply radiant gas burners for Mamods but these were not very good and quite expensive. There were a few meths burners of different designs commercially available but a lot of us made our own.
The following is of one I made a lot of, its design is borrowed from several different designs. In the early days of 16mm Scale when meths burners were the norm the track used wasn't very good. The use of Hornby tin plate track was quite common when left in the elements it became very rust and uneven and model locomotives quite often came off the track! So a design of meths burner which didn't dump all its flaming meths out if the model fell on its side was a good idea. This burner gives at least a few moments to right the model if it does leave the track.
First the filling tube goes to the bottom of the tank so that it can be fill and nearly emptied using a syringe. When soldered in the filling tube is bent to the right which means that if the tank is on either of its sides or even upside down little fuel will come out of it.
There is an overflow pipe fitted which comes out the same side as the filler tube bends. When filling as soon as meths comes out of the overflow a certain amount of meths is drawn back into the syringe to allow for the expansion of the meths as it heats up. If meths does come out of the overflow it is deposited on the side of the track well away from the burners.
The meths tank itself is quite heavy which compensates to a certain degree for the weight at the front of the model. This photograph shows the tank hard soldered together along with the burner tubes and their feeder tube. The feeder tube goes to the rear of the tank so if the model is tipped forward not a lot of meths will be spilt from the burners also the holes from the feeder tube to the burners are kept small also to reduce the flow of meths if there is a spill.
This design doesn't stop the burners flaming but does slow it down.
The burner all hard soldered together except for the bung in the end of feeder tube which is soft solder to allow the tube to be easily cleaned if necessary. I always fit a removable bung on all my meths burners but I have yet to have had to remove one, but if I don't fit one!
Burner painted with VHT paint.
Burner fitted in the frames of the model it is secured by a bolt to the footplate and the front flame guard is sprung into the frames.
Part of the carriage footplate has to be cut away to clear the burner parts.
As the model looks today. Next will be a filler valve to give more time to think about the lubricator position.
Regards Tony.
I haven't decided decided on how or where the lubricator will be fixed, there isn't much room on the footplate. So while I have been cogitating the regulator has been partly made and fitted.
The connections for a pressure gauge and the regulator valve have been blanked off. Initially the reversing valve will be used to regulate the steam.
A meths burn has been made as it didn't seem practical to fit a ceramic burner as a flexible gas pipe would be needed. Years ago when the only real alternative to solid fuel was meths, Merlin did make and supply radiant gas burners for Mamods but these were not very good and quite expensive. There were a few meths burners of different designs commercially available but a lot of us made our own.
The following is of one I made a lot of, its design is borrowed from several different designs. In the early days of 16mm Scale when meths burners were the norm the track used wasn't very good. The use of Hornby tin plate track was quite common when left in the elements it became very rust and uneven and model locomotives quite often came off the track! So a design of meths burner which didn't dump all its flaming meths out if the model fell on its side was a good idea. This burner gives at least a few moments to right the model if it does leave the track.
First the filling tube goes to the bottom of the tank so that it can be fill and nearly emptied using a syringe. When soldered in the filling tube is bent to the right which means that if the tank is on either of its sides or even upside down little fuel will come out of it.
There is an overflow pipe fitted which comes out the same side as the filler tube bends. When filling as soon as meths comes out of the overflow a certain amount of meths is drawn back into the syringe to allow for the expansion of the meths as it heats up. If meths does come out of the overflow it is deposited on the side of the track well away from the burners.
The meths tank itself is quite heavy which compensates to a certain degree for the weight at the front of the model. This photograph shows the tank hard soldered together along with the burner tubes and their feeder tube. The feeder tube goes to the rear of the tank so if the model is tipped forward not a lot of meths will be spilt from the burners also the holes from the feeder tube to the burners are kept small also to reduce the flow of meths if there is a spill.
This design doesn't stop the burners flaming but does slow it down.
The burner all hard soldered together except for the bung in the end of feeder tube which is soft solder to allow the tube to be easily cleaned if necessary. I always fit a removable bung on all my meths burners but I have yet to have had to remove one, but if I don't fit one!
Burner painted with VHT paint.
Burner fitted in the frames of the model it is secured by a bolt to the footplate and the front flame guard is sprung into the frames.
Part of the carriage footplate has to be cut away to clear the burner parts.
As the model looks today. Next will be a filler valve to give more time to think about the lubricator position.
Regards Tony.
That's a great discription of how to build a meths tank. Some useful pointers I will be taking with me from that I know
If it can be made full scale it can be made 16mm
My line: http://gardenrails.myfreeforum.org/about7200.html
My line: http://gardenrails.myfreeforum.org/about7200.html
- Tony Bird
- Trainee Driver
- Posts: 570
- Joined: Thu Jul 29, 2010 8:25 am
- Location: Cardiff, South Wales, UK.
Hi,
Yesterday made my version of a Goodall valve.
The steam pipe has been taken through to the back head, but still not decided how the pipe work and lubricator will be mounted, we are away for a few days so maybe inspiration will strike.
I hope to meet up with three Queens this afternoon!
Regards Tony.
Yesterday made my version of a Goodall valve.
The steam pipe has been taken through to the back head, but still not decided how the pipe work and lubricator will be mounted, we are away for a few days so maybe inspiration will strike.
I hope to meet up with three Queens this afternoon!
Regards Tony.
- Tony Bird
- Trainee Driver
- Posts: 570
- Joined: Thu Jul 29, 2010 8:25 am
- Location: Cardiff, South Wales, UK.
Hi,
I managed to get the pipe work together today. The silicon tube will be replaced by copper when everything is checked out.
It really wasn't a fair day today to check out an externally meths fired model locomotive. The wind was gusting badly but the model kept going even with flames appearing through the holes in the frames
No doubt it will improve as it runs in but it will move along quite slowly and if it runs out of puff due to the wind its will self start and plod on. All in all I am quite happy with the models performance and when a regulator is fitted it should be even more controllable. I have taken some video of the models first run but I don't know if I will have time to down load it and post. We have an early start for a flight tomorrow and there is still a lot to do.
Regards Tony.
I managed to get the pipe work together today. The silicon tube will be replaced by copper when everything is checked out.
It really wasn't a fair day today to check out an externally meths fired model locomotive. The wind was gusting badly but the model kept going even with flames appearing through the holes in the frames
No doubt it will improve as it runs in but it will move along quite slowly and if it runs out of puff due to the wind its will self start and plod on. All in all I am quite happy with the models performance and when a regulator is fitted it should be even more controllable. I have taken some video of the models first run but I don't know if I will have time to down load it and post. We have an early start for a flight tomorrow and there is still a lot to do.
Regards Tony.
- Tony Bird
- Trainee Driver
- Posts: 570
- Joined: Thu Jul 29, 2010 8:25 am
- Location: Cardiff, South Wales, UK.
Hi,
I have been painting a fence today at the CMES in preparation for their annual Steam Rally next weekend, so only had a short time to play when I returned.
The Mamod locomotive is a very wet steamer and if it has a lubricator you get oil as well as water. Many years go the problem was reduced by using the smoke box as a water/oil trap. A hole is drilled in the bottom of the smoke box to let any residue escape. A brass pipe with its end sealed and a hole in its side was fitted to the end of the silicon pipe well below the top of the chimney. I cannot remember how successful this is in removing the oil and water but if it doesn't work as well as it might a full length silicon pipe can be fitted again.
Regards Tony.
I have been painting a fence today at the CMES in preparation for their annual Steam Rally next weekend, so only had a short time to play when I returned.
The Mamod locomotive is a very wet steamer and if it has a lubricator you get oil as well as water. Many years go the problem was reduced by using the smoke box as a water/oil trap. A hole is drilled in the bottom of the smoke box to let any residue escape. A brass pipe with its end sealed and a hole in its side was fitted to the end of the silicon pipe well below the top of the chimney. I cannot remember how successful this is in removing the oil and water but if it doesn't work as well as it might a full length silicon pipe can be fitted again.
Regards Tony.
- Dannypenguin
- Trainee Driver
- Posts: 632
- Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2013 9:57 am
- Location: Forest of Dean, UK
- Contact:
Looks lovely
Dan
Visit the PFLR website - http://poultonfarmlightrailway.webs.com/
Dean Forest Railway Society website - http://dfrsociety.org/
Visit the PFLR website - http://poultonfarmlightrailway.webs.com/
Dean Forest Railway Society website - http://dfrsociety.org/
Great looking loco tony! Hope my qh ends up being to a similar standard
If it can be made full scale it can be made 16mm
My line: http://gardenrails.myfreeforum.org/about7200.html
My line: http://gardenrails.myfreeforum.org/about7200.html
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- New User
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Thu Aug 27, 2020 6:51 pm
Re: Mamod Locomotive
Not sure if anyone is interested, but I have a Mamod set comprising a loco, two passenger coaches, 6 goods vehicles, about 40 pieces of track, 6 points. Little used and in good condition. Price negotiable.
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