It's a Dirty, Dirty Job
- PeachBottom
- Trainee Fireman
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- Joined: Thu Apr 07, 2011 12:35 pm
- Location: West Lindsey
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It's a Dirty, Dirty Job
"Wow, that got stiff fast"
"If I stick my finger there...."
"I'll pack it in real good"
"It's so hard!"
....
We're making jigstones. Get your minds out of the gutter!
"If I stick my finger there...."
"I'll pack it in real good"
"It's so hard!"
....
We're making jigstones. Get your minds out of the gutter!
http://blog.beccajanestclair.com
"Peachbottom was reading over my shoulder and has gone a funny colour, and is also in the kitchen where the Very Sharp Objects live" ~TommyDodd
"Peachbottom was reading over my shoulder and has gone a funny colour, and is also in the kitchen where the Very Sharp Objects live" ~TommyDodd
- PeachBottom
- Trainee Fireman
- Posts: 241
- Joined: Thu Apr 07, 2011 12:35 pm
- Location: West Lindsey
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Your trick worked! It's just that as we were trying to work out the measurements of cement/water it kept getting too thick to work with and we almost ruined the mixing pot at one point!MDLR:67679 wrote:Keep on dropping it on the bench from about 2" off - you'll get rid of the bubbles that way......................
Have a full set nicely drying on the bench. Hoping for the best. The ones we made on Tuesday are okayish, but not perfect.
http://blog.beccajanestclair.com
"Peachbottom was reading over my shoulder and has gone a funny colour, and is also in the kitchen where the Very Sharp Objects live" ~TommyDodd
"Peachbottom was reading over my shoulder and has gone a funny colour, and is also in the kitchen where the Very Sharp Objects live" ~TommyDodd
- PeachBottom
- Trainee Fireman
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- Joined: Thu Apr 07, 2011 12:35 pm
- Location: West Lindsey
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The ones that were gloopy took a while to set though! I'm not sure they look any better, to be honest.MDLR:67683 wrote:You're much better off with a sloppy mix (if you'll pardon the expression) - they may take a little longer to dry off but you can guarantee that it'll flow into all the detail. The same applies when you cast window frames, doors and other details from car filler - keep it sloppy!
http://blog.beccajanestclair.com
"Peachbottom was reading over my shoulder and has gone a funny colour, and is also in the kitchen where the Very Sharp Objects live" ~TommyDodd
"Peachbottom was reading over my shoulder and has gone a funny colour, and is also in the kitchen where the Very Sharp Objects live" ~TommyDodd
- PeachBottom
- Trainee Fireman
- Posts: 241
- Joined: Thu Apr 07, 2011 12:35 pm
- Location: West Lindsey
- Contact:
"Ew, it got on my hand." "Good thing you're wearing protection."
http://blog.beccajanestclair.com
"Peachbottom was reading over my shoulder and has gone a funny colour, and is also in the kitchen where the Very Sharp Objects live" ~TommyDodd
"Peachbottom was reading over my shoulder and has gone a funny colour, and is also in the kitchen where the Very Sharp Objects live" ~TommyDodd
- PeachBottom
- Trainee Fireman
- Posts: 241
- Joined: Thu Apr 07, 2011 12:35 pm
- Location: West Lindsey
- Contact:
MDLR, you give me advice over the phone, and then I forget.
What was your suggestion for the roof?
What was your suggestion for the roof?
http://blog.beccajanestclair.com
"Peachbottom was reading over my shoulder and has gone a funny colour, and is also in the kitchen where the Very Sharp Objects live" ~TommyDodd
"Peachbottom was reading over my shoulder and has gone a funny colour, and is also in the kitchen where the Very Sharp Objects live" ~TommyDodd
- MDLR
- Driver
- Posts: 4027
- Joined: Thu Jan 15, 2009 10:38 pm
- Location: Near Ripley, Derbyshire, UK
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Either a moulded roof from a Jigstones mould made with fibreglass car filler, or a corrugated roof from styrene sheet, or (if you insist) a corrugated card roof (coz I know you've got the relevant equipment) well soaked in shellac - ask Tim if he's got any. It's a meths-based "varnish" which will impregnate the card and make it reasonably weatherproof.PeachBottom:67694 wrote:What was your suggestion for the roof?
Another way is to make a ply sub-roof and make corrugated iron out of the central section of food cans, heated up with a blowtorch to remove the coating and plating (so it goes rusty) and pinned to the sub-roof with Peco track pins. Take great care - cut tins are SHARP!
Can you recommend a brand? I tried it with Isopon P38 (as suggested by the jigstones instructions) but thought the whole thing seemed a bit thin and delicate, as well as translucent at the thin parts (big problem if we illuminate the building). Also, I suppose a rigid sub-base would be necessary if the building is too big to be covered by a single moulded piece- I had thought of using perspex daubed in matt black to render it opaque.MDLR:67699 wrote:... a moulded roof from a Jigstones mould made with fibreglass car filler
Well, now we know the buffer-stops work! (Heard at 2013 "Longest Day" solstice steamup)
- MDLR
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I used P38, but the golden rule (as with resin buildings) is to paint it inside and out - I once had a building that glowed in the dark before i painted it - white spray primer is good enough...............TommyDodd:67701 wrote:Can you recommend a brand? I tried it with Isopon P38 (as suggested by the jigstones instructions) but thought the whole thing seemed a bit thin and delicate, as well as translucent at the thin parts (big problem if we illuminate the building). Also, I suppose a rigid sub-base would be necessary if the building is too big to be covered by a single moulded piece- I had thought of using perspex daubed in matt black to render it opaque.
- IrishPeter
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I have that trouble with verbal instructions too. Gets me into no end of hot water with the wife!PeachBottom:67694 wrote:MDLR, you give me advice over the phone, and then I forget.
What was your suggestion for the roof?
Peter in AZ
Traffic Pattern? What pattern? Spuds out; grain in, but cattle, sheep and passengers are a lot less predictable.
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