MSS LOCO WHEEL WIDTH CONVERSION

This section is useful for posting interesting copies of instruction manuals and similar pieces to help other members of the hobby
Post Reply
Modelenthusiasts
Cleaner
Cleaner
Posts: 6
Joined: Fri Jan 01, 2016 4:17 pm
Location: West Sussex
Contact:

MSS LOCO WHEEL WIDTH CONVERSION

Post by Modelenthusiasts » Fri Aug 26, 2016 9:00 am

MSS LOCOMOTIVE WHEEL WIDTH CONVERSION

When I wanted detailed  information on how to convert the wheel width that information was hard to come by. With the advice given to me by the MSS staff I was able to launch into the project and at the same time produce this tutorial hoping it will help anyone wanting to modify the loco wheel width gauge.

The change normally is from 0 gauge to 1 gauge. However I used the workshop engine which was already in gauge 1 mode so the conversion is from 1 gauge to 0 gauge.

The principles are the same which ever direction you go.

Note:
If you are doing it in the normal direction of gauge 0 to gauge 1, then you will need to buy a "Conversion Set". This provides a conversion blocks to widen the cylinders from each other, the longer cylinder fixing screws and the wider wheels.

If you ever decide to tackle this job I hope you find this tutorial makes life a little easier.

To assist with this project I have photographed the major steps. Need help? Call 0777 552 1452.

Image
 Engine looking good in '1' gauge.
Image
 Remove the cab back by pulling backwards.
Image
Remove the burner tray.
Image
Unscrew the side screws.
Be careful not to let the screwdriver slip off the screw head.
Image
Remove the frame spacer screws.
Image
Start to remove the port face screws.
Image
Continue to remove those screws by gripping the exposed nuts. It is better to use a small spanner of course.
Image
Remove the cylinder assembly with the port face. Conversion block removed as well.
Image
Very carefully, and without any distractions pick off the circlips.
Put your hand holding the engine over the area to stop the circlip flying off into oblivion.
Image
Circlips removed. with the washers.
Image
Lift off the coupling rods.
Image
Remove the buffers and the drag beam.

METHOD 1 TO REMOVE WHEELS
Image
Squeeze the main frame together.
Image
Remove the wheels by pulling out the axles. Then it is possible to start
the reassembly. It's quick but could slightly bend the main frame.

METHOD 2 TO REMOVE WHEELS
Image
Engine at the ready for wheels removal.
Image
Now remove the main frame with wheels attached.
Image
Insert the new axles into the main frame and use the spacer to hold it all together.
Image
Fit the main frame with wheels back into the body.
Image
Sometimes the holes don't seem to line up.
Image
Use a couple of bradels to position the main frame to the reversing valve.
Image
Fit all of the screws but do not tighten yet.
Image
Fit the cylinder assembly with post face and gasket to the frame.
Image
When everything feels lined up, tighten the screws but not tight enough to break any screws or strip threads. This is possible!
Image
Refit the drag beam and buffers.
Image
Job done.
Last edited by Modelenthusiasts on Sat Aug 27, 2016 10:40 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Half the people are below average.

merlin2
Cleaner
Cleaner
Posts: 38
Joined: Tue Aug 13, 2013 12:40 pm
Location: S. Somerset

Post by merlin2 » Fri Aug 26, 2016 1:54 pm

Very useful and very well illustrated instructions; I'm sure that people will find it useful. Fortunately my 40 year old Mamod was built from a kit which had everything needed to build as either 32mm or, as my case, 45mm gauge, so I have never needed to do a conversion. It has also been converted to gas i.s.o pellets.
Merlin

11thHour
Trainee Fireman
Trainee Fireman
Posts: 116
Joined: Mon Mar 26, 2012 4:00 am
Location: Wodonga, Vic. Land of Oz

Post by 11thHour » Sat Aug 27, 2016 4:23 am

Hi Modelenthusiasts,

On the basis that there are no dumb questions, can I ask why there is a need for the part "gauge 1 conversion block". Logically the relationship between the wheels and the cylinders has not changed?

Tim :?:

Modelenthusiasts
Cleaner
Cleaner
Posts: 6
Joined: Fri Jan 01, 2016 4:17 pm
Location: West Sussex
Contact:

Post by Modelenthusiasts » Sat Aug 27, 2016 10:39 pm

Hi Tim,

Thank you, it is a very good question. If going from 0 to 1:

1. We widen the cylinders from each other using widening blocks called a conversion blocks. In a way its like a thick metal gasket (fibre gasket is still required).

2. The wider wheels are inserted into the frame.

Then we have wheels and cylinders of equal width.

It took me yonks to find this out. It was as though those who knew didn't want me to know! Well it felt a bit like that. So I got an engine and with a bit of guidance from MSS launched into it. It quite simple when you know how.
Half the people are below average.

11thHour
Trainee Fireman
Trainee Fireman
Posts: 116
Joined: Mon Mar 26, 2012 4:00 am
Location: Wodonga, Vic. Land of Oz

Post by 11thHour » Mon Aug 29, 2016 3:59 am

Thanks modelenthusiasts,

So the frames remain the same distance apart, only the wheels and cylinders move out in the conversion?

Tim :|

Modelenthusiasts
Cleaner
Cleaner
Posts: 6
Joined: Fri Jan 01, 2016 4:17 pm
Location: West Sussex
Contact:

Post by Modelenthusiasts » Tue Aug 30, 2016 2:08 pm

Exactly that Tim. Frames width does not change. ;)
Half the people are below average.

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests