Time to build a railway...but where?

[IanC]

I agree with Bazzer. Fingers crossed for more good weather so we get to see more of this magnificent build.

[Peter Butler]

Out of interest, what are the potential problems with the tarp cover envisaged by your friend?

Being a yachtsman he is well aware of the strength of the wind and has seen the results of damage caused by sails and protective sheets flapping about against hulls etc. I have tried to think through a method of ensuring the tarpaulin would be well secured on all sides and stainless steel cables used to support it through eyes and additional edging to prevent it tearing. I fear that if it does rip it will completely destroy my houses and it is probably safer to put them in a shed over winter.

It will probably fade as it dries as you say. Any work I've done with masonry colours or cement never dries the same colour as wet.

Looking back at my previous roadway, which I laid in much the same colour mix, I can see how much the black has become grey over time....

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For now I am content with the colour as it represents the laying of new surface through the village which has undergone a complete refurbishment to encourage more tourists to visit and spend much needed cash.

[tom_tom_go]

It looks great Peter and will weather over time.

I would heed your friends advice though as you will be gutted if the houses get damaged.

[Peter Butler]

Thanks Tom, I'm sure you are right and I will take his advice, personal experience is usually the best source of information.

[tom_tom_go]

Yes, like covering up SBR treated ballast

I bring my buildings in now in the winter. I had an issue with it first in that it didn't feel right and some how cheating (maybe my head needs help) but I am glad I got over it as it saves them from being damaged.

[Peter Butler]

My initial concern over storing my buildings was the sheer number and volume of them to find suitable accommodation. Fortunately I have a shed which is close by and with adequate space. I appreciate this is not always available to everyone so if I could have 'invented' an alternative it might have proved useful to others on the Forum. The last thing I want to do is promote something which could cause problems in the future.

[pandsrowe]

The method that I use to store buildings over winter is to put them in stacking plastic crates and then those in turn are stored in my summer house. I realise that this is an added expense but in my case I had these left over from a house move some years back and looking on t'internet I see that nowadays there is a vast range of shapes and sizes available at quite reasonable prices. The variety that I use fit inside each other when not in use, so during the summer months there is effectively only one crate to store and then by turning each crate through 180 degrees they then sit on top of each other. The beauty of stacking is that with careful arranging of the buildings in each crate a great deal can be stored within a very small footprint.

[philipy]

Looking back at my previous roadway, which I laid in much the same colour mix, I can see how much the black has become grey over time....

For now I am content with the colour as it represents the laying of new surface through the village which has undergone a complete refurbishment to encourage more tourists to visit and spend much needed cash.

Getting back to the subject of road colour , I think your weathered grey road looks really good. It seems to blend quite well with the adjacent rocks and doesn't grab the eye, which in my mind is how a model roadway should look. It's something that is simply 'there' and is needed to link the scene, not as a focus.

I think mortar colours always seem to fade. The concrete bridge pier that I posted last week was quite distinctly green when new and has faded significantly now.

[Lonsdaler]

If you're ever tempted to have a go at road markings Peter, I can recommend these pens, branded Molotov :https://www.amazon.co.uk/Molotow-M12721 ... %3AMolotow
I have used the 2mm tip pen to mark my platform edges - one has been in place for over 3 years now, the other for 18 months, and neither have faded or otherwise worn.

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This photo was taken just after the lining was done in 2014, and the one of the tractor below early this year - you can just make out the platform edging lower left

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So long as it dries before the weather gets to it, it seems to survive without needing further protection.

[Peter Butler]

Many thanks Phil, and perfect timing too! I do plan to add road markings and have been trying to think how to achieve this possibly with stencil and spray? The marker pen idea sounds perfect and much less trouble. I am going to a store with a large artists/graphics section today and will look for the Molotow or similar.

[Peter Butler]

Phil, I managed to buy a white marker pen with 2.2mm point and will practise on some suitable material first before attempting the real thing. At the moment it wouldn't be possible as I have done the unthinkable..... remember the old saying... 'Put your money where your mouth is', well I have done it today just to show my confidence in SBR to do its job. The concrete has been under cover since laying it on Saturday, it still has a high water content but is firm to the touch. I thought I would give it a top coat of SBR to help stabilise it and add a surface for me to paint the white lines. Prepare yourselves.....

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This is not a trick of the light, it really is that colour.
It has done this before so I was well prepared for the result knowing it will eventually settle down to normal colour and the sheen will also fade leaving the original black finish. Just have to be patient now, the cover is back on and will stay there for days... possibly weeks?
Also, I have filled all of the planting areas with compost ready to add some softening colour.

[tom_tom_go]

I quite like the ocean look, maybe some boats are in order if the colour remains

[ge_rik]

Does that give protection against frost, Peter? I'm waiting for Beeston Castle ruins to dry out before applying masonry waterproofing agent. SBR might be an alternative if it can be applied to damp Thermalite......

Rik

[philipy]

Rik, I'd imagine that since SBR seals the surface it would restrict, if not totally prevent, water soaking into your blocks, and if there is no excess water content then it can't freeze and expand. However it wouldn't prevent 'rising damp' ( as suffered by most castles I believe!) but you'd have that problem whatever you coat it with.

[Lonsdaler]

It's quite horrifying the first time you see that, isn't it Peter , but as you say, and know from experience, it will all settle down. I'm glad to hear you got sorted with a pen. I like the Molotow ones, as they do a range of alternative and replacement nibs, which can be used in the same pen.

[IanC]

Glad you were prepared for the result Peter. If it had been me I'd have been horrified and worried in case it remained like that on seeing it for the first time.

[Peter Butler]

Does that give protection against frost, Peter? I'm waiting for Beeston Castle ruins to dry out before applying masonry waterproofing agent. SBR might be an alternative if it can be applied to damp Thermalite......

Rik

I'm placed on the spot now because I can only report on my experience. The road surface I laid previously was treated in the same way and has survived two or three winters without suffering frost damage. Whether it is because of the SBR I couldn't say but concrete has some resistance to frost if laid thickly enough.
I believe Thermalite blocks are intended for indoor use and not designed to withstand wet and frosty conditions. They are softer than the exterior quality blocks and therefore more porous. Whether any type of waterproofing agent would be able to protect them is something you might need to try, perhaps using a well soaked sample in your freezer?
Just explain the importance of the experiment to the management, I'm sure she will understand...... possibly?

[Peter Butler]

Glad you were prepared for the result Peter. If it had been me I'd have been horrified and worried in case it remained like that on seeing it for the first time.

It certainly scared me the first time but that is what happens when something new is tried. Each of us face new and exciting challenges and opportunities to improve the way we achieve the results we wish for, the Forum enables us to pass on the information to others.

[jim@NAL]

Looking good Peter if used SBR to seal a badly layed concrete floor it seals the floor completely. You are right thurmalight or soft blocks are not used outside in buildings as the frost gets to them and render dosent sick to them very well.thay are very rearly used inside now too they are considered as a bit old now lots of houses in the 1970s where built with them.you can seal them with some waterd down PVA or as Peter says SBR or paint them with some wheratersheld paint

[ge_rik]

Thanks folks
I'll do some experimenting. My preferred option is to wait until the blocks dry out (weather permitting) and then apply weathershield compound as this is specially formulated to penetrate masonry. It's very thin and so I imagine it will soak into the Thermalite quite readily as the bocks are very porous. I suspect that SBR is more likely to sit on the surface or at least penetrate only a little way into the blocks as it's thicker. Anyhow, as has been suggested, as the Thermalite is representing a ruin, it's no great problem if the blocks do crumble a bit at the edges.....

Rik