RWLR - Robin Wood Light Railway

[tom_tom_go]

Thanks for the comments guys.

I don't know why but work went very slow today trying to box in the first part of the bridge so the gravel does not spill over everywhere:

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Made up as I went along. The plastic angle had to be cut in various places to allow all my rolling stock through which took time.

The part that is not boxed in I need to think of something to cover it with, maybe some thin concrete or metal so it rusts?

The other side still to do!

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[philipy]

The part that is not boxed in I need to think of something to cover it with, maybe some thin concrete or metal so it rusts?

I'd be looking to try sticking some of your ballast to the flat with SBR. I've done that sucessfully in a similar location at a bridge end.

[Soar Valley Light]

Hi Tom,

That looks very neat and tidy. How about some thin plate with a bit of rivet detail to look like deck plates?

I'm really impressed with your line, it's another one of those inspiration sources that have kept me going during the early part of the construction of my own line

Andrew

[tom_tom_go]

Both good ideas, thank you.

Andrew, if my little line has inspired you to produce your larger railway then I am humbled!

[tom_tom_go]

I have some Postcrete, would that stick to the wood?

[FWLR]

Hi Tom, Postcrete would stick to wood, but why don’t you try a small stone wall. doesn’t need to be to big does it.

[philipy]

I have some Postcrete, would that stick to the wood?

Tom,
I think it would, but in the relatively thin layer you would use, I think it might weather and crumble quite quickly. Using very small amounts it's difficult to be sure exactly what ratio of cement to sand you actually take out of the bag.
I've used it as platform surface at about 10mm thick on top of concrete blocks, and after 5 years or so, the surface is noticeably pitted.

[Soar Valley Light]

Both good ideas, thank you.

Andrew, if my little line has inspired you to produce your larger railway then I am humbled!

I'm a sucker for good geometry and realistic operation - which makes layout size a very secondary consideration. Yours has both these by the ''bogie open wagon'-full.

If you are looking at the 'concrete' option the aforesaid problems with thin material flaking off are very real. how about making your own more durable version. Very fine grit mixed with a waterproof adhesive might work, possibly exterior grade building adhesive. I'm thinking of the stuff out of a tube to provide the really fine element of the 'concrete' but something like SBR may work too. The likes of Peter Butler (et al) would be better suited to comment on that. I've no practical experience of this at all, I'm just working off a bit of 'civil engineering theory'.

Andrew

[Peter Butler]

Thank you Andrew for your comments and recommendation, I do have experience of using such materials on a variety of ground surfaces, some of which have been successful and others less so.
The use of fine grit mixed with a floor tile cement and SBR is a good mix to create a convincing ground effect, however, I have used this directly onto timber with mixed results. The timber will expand and contract and eventually the fairly rigid cement mix will loose its grip. Better solution would be to fix a roof felt strip first which will bond to the mix but prevent the movement issue.
From experience this will be a more permanent fixture, look good and is not difficult to achieve. A coating of just a few mm thickness will be sufficient.

[Maple]

I love the way your line is coming on Bridge looks really good

[tom_tom_go]

Early evening last Sunday on the RWLR. Steamy Clare runs around to take the last train home:

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[FWLR]

Very atmospheric Tom, love it.

[tom_tom_go]

Finished the other side of the bridge deck so it's all boxed for the gravel:

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Land owner (SWMBO) has requested the boxing in wood be painted as it looks worn and dull (I quite liked it but hey ho) so that will be the next job along with painting the bridge (not sure what colour yet?).

Looking forward to Spring time so we can plant up all the pots and give the inner loop some interest.

[bazzer42]

Show Mrs Tom the cuprinol shades range and you could be sweet sundae (pink) before you know it, would definitely brighten it up. They actually do some nice colours.

[markoteal]

Perhaps sunshine yellow?

[Soar Valley Light]

Whatever colour you choose Tom, make sure it's a suitable wood preservative that will protect your timber, not simply a coat of paint that will trap water in and rot the wood from the inside!

Don't ask me how I know this.

[Big Jim]

Creosote?
Ideal for that authentic wooden sleeper niff. It would go well with the delightful pong from coal fired engines.

[FWLR]

Don’t go back to the Creosote debate Jim lol.

[Big Jim]

Fair enough.
(Wanders off down the garden for a good sniff of the fence......)

[tom_tom_go]

To see your faces if I did painted the wood Cuprinol 'Berry Kiss' or 'Sweet Sundae'

It will be a Cuprinol colour as other parts of the garden are painted using the same which I believe is 'Muted Clay' but cannot remember.

I would like to apply a contrasting colour but apparently you cannot do that in a small garden, so my wife tells me.