What to do with a tiny, barren wasteland?

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Re: What to do with a tiny, barren wasteland?

Post by FWLR » Sat Aug 01, 2020 7:24 am

Peter Butler wrote: ↑Fri Jul 31, 2020 11:12 pm Aaron, I apologise for hijacking this thread but, despite my search, I have failed to find a suitable heading to introduce the following message, which should be under...... Board index < Home cooking < Sweets and cakes
This is my preferred way of enjoying scones with raspberry jam, fresh raspberries and enough fresh whipped cream to make you say... 'STOP!'......
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As you can see, I had already eaten the rest!
Thats more like it Arron.... :lol: :lol: :lol:

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Re: What to do with a tiny, barren wasteland?

Post by Old Man Aaron » Sun Aug 02, 2020 9:50 am

Regarding the cream, I must agree; I usually prefer double what I'd used, but had to stretch the cream as it was running out. Not something I often do, and not all brands will mix in properly, but a teaspoon of cream is also very good in coffee.
Peter, now that's the way to go. Thanks for the reminder - I've raspberries sitting forgotten in the fridge, will have to see if they're still edible..

That's very interesting to hear, Grant. Might have to lengthen my gaps, then. At some point, I noted a discussion on another forum having determined that the expansion of brass and aluminium rail to be roughly the same, and that it would expand by roughly 20mm over fifteen meters, between 0Β°C and 70Β°C.

Andrew, aye, I was thinking of that video, too. Can't help but feel sorry for that loco and wagons, being treated like that. Tried looking for the video I initially mentioned, to no avail. It involved a roughly 8" deep trough dug into the ground with pond liner, and filled with water. Track laid down the length of it, climbing up out onto the grass at either end.

Tim & Graham, here's the build log I wrote up when I built the rake of cane trucks years ago. https://anzaccreekworkshops.blogspot.co ... build.html

Whilst they run well, and I'm very happy with the finish, (which has since been improved with an airbrush) I feel they sit far too high, owing to my choice of axleboxes. Because the trucks' frames are balsa, I can't remove the existing 'boxes without destroying the frames. Plus, as I'd like a longer rake and other design changes, it's easier to simply start over. I've bought enough Binnie running gear (using Hudson skip axleboxes this time) for thirty trucks, and will re-design the frames - which will this time, be made of oak ripped down from planks, rather than using pre-milled balsa. To recoup some of the build costs, I'm selling the existing rake of ten trucks to a mate.

Would certainly love to see more cane modelling here - I daresay that insofar as variety of gauges, rollingstock, operations, infrastructure and scenery, Queensland's cane tramways are an Australian modelling equivalent of Welsh slate railways.


On to photos, anyway..
27/07/20
Another few yards are down, allowing for the first train on the tramway. The trucks were thoroughly tested at all speeds, pushed and pulled in both directions, loaded and empty, etc etc. Only problems were from some of the permanently-link-coupled trucks, (because they don't like being pushed) and the odd cane load snagging on weeds, which were subsequently trimmed.





The line to mid-right will be laid as part of Stage Two.
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28/07/20
The bridge in the Southeastern corner of the yard will be built from cedar. When I built the handlaid track some years ago, I set aside a bundle of sticks ripped down from cedar planks, for use as point and bridge timbers. The term for of milling both sides of a log, so it doesn't roll away, is unknown to me, so unless anyone knows the correct term for it, I'll just call them "paralleled" logs. A pair of sticks had two sides each, whittled down to look like "paralleled" logs. Whittling's rather enjoyable, though I don't see myself carving anything more than miniature logs..
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A scale grain effect was added with a wire brush.
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30/07/20
One of the gas bottles is about empty, so I switched to the other bottle, and we'll have to order a replacement for the first, soon. In readiness for that, the crossings have all been concreted. In the initial batch of concrete, I used leftover gravel from the pathway, which was unsurprisingly too coarse for use between the rails. That was dumped elsewhere as fill, and a new batch mixed using crusher dust instead. The first crossing turned out very nicely. We'll see how it holds up once cured..
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The second was awful. A new batch was mixed each time, and for whatever reason, this was the best surface finish I could manage.
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The third came out somewhat better.
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31/07/20
Once the crossings had turned "green", flangeways were carved with a screwdriver. The edges of each crossing were straightened, and the surfaces of the second two smoothed, somewhat. During mixing, I'd forgotten to add some brown oxide to tone down the starkness, so I thought I'd try mixing some oxide with water and brushed it over the partially-set concrete. Weather or not that works, remains to be seen.
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Just to see how it looks, some crusher dust was spread over a short section. Looks great, but certainly too well-maintained in appearance. Will pack this lot down a bit, paint the rails, then apply the "proper" ballast mix, in time.
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01/08/20
The remaining bridge parts have been made, and the stringers cut down to suit the curve where the bridge is to be assembled. Pre-weathering the components with the vinegar and steel wool method. In the past however, I've found that not all types of wood are affected by the treatment. Another pre-treatment deals with this - soak the parts in tea, and allow to fully dry, prior to the vinegar bath. Whilst I have stained cedar with the vinegar method, I don't remember weather it needs the tea or not. Easy enough just to do it anyway. Might throw the parts in vinegar/rust tomorrow.
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Regards,
Aaron
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Re: What to do with a tiny, barren wasteland?

Post by LNR » Mon Aug 03, 2020 1:12 am

Another great read Aaron, progressing well. It's always good to be able to run the first train on a completed continuous loop. Did you put any reo in the cement crossings?
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Re: What to do with a tiny, barren wasteland?

Post by FWLR » Mon Aug 03, 2020 8:33 am

Those photos and your description has been well thought out Arron. I enjoyed it immensely. The weathering of your wood is a great idea... :thumbright: :thumbright:

Have you got a photo of them done please. It's purely to see if I can replicate what you have managed to do. The cost of weathering stuff is going up by the day over here, maybe it's because of COVID-19, I don't know...

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Re: What to do with a tiny, barren wasteland?

Post by ge_rik » Mon Aug 03, 2020 9:12 am

It's looking really well established already. That crusher dust does look in-scale and realistic to my mind.
I have a bashed Stainz on the PLR. As has been said already, they are more or less bullet-proof.
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Re: What to do with a tiny, barren wasteland?

Post by Andrew » Mon Aug 03, 2020 11:59 am

Hi Aaron,

Love the "Stainz on the canez" shots, it's all really coming together. I'd been thinking the same thing re Australian cane lines and the Welsh narrow gauge, I had no idea such variety existed - it's a real eye-opener to have so many modelers from "down under" on here, especially as you're all interested in portraying the local scene.

Interesting thoughts re pre-applying tea where the vinegar/wire wool solution won't take, thanks. I've added a tea-bag to the mix where I couldn't get the result dark enough,which seems to work, but not tried applying it beforehand. I've recently been very pleasantly surprised how well MDF seems to take the vinegar solution, much more evenly and effectively than I expected, although it took three applications to get the colour right to my eye. I used MDF sealer over the top, which should protect it but didn't affect the colour or finish.

Anyway, congratulations on such excellent progress!

Andrew.

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Re: What to do with a tiny, barren wasteland?

Post by Old Man Aaron » Wed Aug 12, 2020 5:39 am

I did cut pieces of "snake-wire" mesh as reinforcing for the gate crossing, but decided after the fact, that it was a bit fine to allow the concrete porridge to properly flow under it. Chicken wire would've been better, but have none on hand. As a pessimist, I figure it'll crack regardless. We'll see how it holds up, can always start over if it fares that poorly.

Nice of you to say, regarding my writing. I do agonise over it - each of these postings takes me at minimum, an hour each, to write. I tend to go into unnecessary detail, then proof-read it and realise how long-winded it is, and end up condensing everything into (relatively) concise paragraphs.

Never thought about staining MDF with this stuff. Will have to try it if I happen to use MDF for something..

04/08/2020
Whilst the bridge parts soak in vinegar, the navvies press on with laying track. I find the job painful and exhausting enough, so a cheap mirror from evilbay is a lifesaver for laying track. A great way to find flaws in the alignment as one goes along, that are often otherwise invisible from the usual viewing angles. I can't recommend it enough.
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07/08/20
The bridge parts took far longer to stain than expected. The piles and to a lesser extent, the stringers, were somewhat resistant to the stain.
There's a few virgin-wood-coloured streaks in these components, but they don't look awful and will further fade in time.
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When I ripped down cedar boards to make sleepers, I had only an 11" table saw - which was of course too large to safely split the sleepers to a scale-ish depth. So the depth of my sleepers were the full 18mm thickness of the boards I'd used. I can get away with that when ballasting track, but on bridges, I'm replacing the sleepers with spares, that have been split on my new 2" table saw. To maintain the gauge, alternating sleepers had their dogspikes cut away with the dremel. I was surprised at how well the newly distressed and stained sleepers, matched the originals that had been stored outdoors for two years.
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Half of the bridge is re-timbered, and guard rails fitted. I'm leaving the guard rails overhanging this section, as they'll be spiked to the other half of the bridge, to help rigid-ify the two pieces of track. I confess to having forgotten to properly research guard rails on curved bridges, so I'm not sure if the ends are positioned quite properly. Too late now of course, but it looks good enough for me.
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10/08/20
The bents have been assembled, and although I cut sway braces (the diagonal planks) for all four bents, I realised only one was going to be standing high enough over the terrain, to warrant the sways being fitted. After the glue had dried, the spacer blocks on top were drilled through, and panel nails fitted as reinforcement.
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Forgot to consider abutments, but had some spare sleepers. These were epoxied to a piece of aluminium, using the traditional mixing stick/spatula.Image


I knew I had a reason to keep that annoying bundle of short rail offcuts.
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Prototype sway braces are attached with bolts. Before realising I only need sways on one bent, I'd cobbled together enough dummy nuts/bolts for all four..

I'm resisting the urge to buy nut/bolt/washer castings here, because if I start now, I'd have a higher standard to maintain, and never stop using them - NBWs are great, but in my hands they'd become a real money pit. Not to mention all the inevitable hold-ups when such popular items are out of stock.
Mark my words though - I will cave one day.
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Using the bents as a guide for the stringers' spacing. Each stringer had been marked with a letter, to ensure each piece ends up in the right place. Firebricks weigh the parts down overnight.
These bricks actually came from a Perry 0-6-2T, that had been converted to diesel-firing, and ran at a theme park. It was donated to the Woodford Railway where I work, in 2014. It's been converted back to wood/coal, so with no need for these firebricks, I took some home, where they see plenty of use.
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11/08/20
Gas man's coming to change the bottles tomorrow, so out came the planter box from it's brick-and-gravel socket.
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These bottles only need changing 3-4 times a year - the bloke's doing them as I write this on the 12th, and he doesn't seem to be having any trouble with the setup. I was going to make a nicer-looking portable one-piece ramp with this marine ply, but I might just keep plonking it down like this.
Image


Regards,
Aaron
Last edited by Old Man Aaron on Wed Jul 21, 2021 2:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: What to do with a tiny, barren wasteland?

Post by LNR » Wed Aug 12, 2020 6:00 am

I like that mirror idea, use it myself. It's good to see nicely laid track, level and with smooth curves. Really makes for trouble free running later on.
Old Man Aaron wrote: ↑Wed Aug 12, 2020 5:39 am using the traditional mixing stick/spatula.
Poor old screwdrivers, they occasionally get used for their intended purpose as well. I keep saying to myself every time I pick one up, "really shouldn't be using this" but I do.
Railway is coming along well.
Grant.
PS hope you don't cave in on the nuts, bolts, washers bit, cos then I might have to.

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Re: What to do with a tiny, barren wasteland?

Post by ge_rik » Wed Aug 12, 2020 7:57 am

Looks like good progress is being made. No wonder your posts take so long to write, you have a fine attention to detail in both your writing and your modelling.

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Re: What to do with a tiny, barren wasteland?

Post by Jimmyb » Wed Aug 12, 2020 8:07 am

Aaron, looking good, I too think the mirror is a great idea, and as for the screwdriver, I have a box of coffee stirrers that do just the job, for this type of thing ;)

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Re: What to do with a tiny, barren wasteland?

Post by FWLR » Wed Aug 12, 2020 8:23 am

Nicely written and very well photographed. It does please the eye when it is done well. :thumbright:

Better than my efforts anyway... :roll:

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Re: What to do with a tiny, barren wasteland?

Post by Old Man Aaron » Wed Aug 12, 2020 10:00 am

Cheers!

LNR wrote: ↑Wed Aug 12, 2020 6:00 am PS hope you don't cave in on the nuts, bolts, washers bit, cos then I might have to.
In that case, perhaps I should, if nothing else but to stir the sh*t! :lol: :roll:


Not much to see, but levelling off the future site of "Phase Two" was finished yesterday. Still some odd junk to tidy up, ahead of a routine tenancy inspection next week.
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12/08/20
I neglected to mention the bents were also glued to the stringers yesterday, in addition to epoxy-ing the dummy bolts into the bent at right, and fitting the abutment.
Not to rely on glue alone, more nails are piloted and hammered just past flush with the bottom of the stringers, so they won't be seen. The nails are 1.6mm dia, so I've piloted the holes at 1.4mm. The minimum size my drill will hold, however, is 1.5mm. So I've just thrown my pin vice in the drill chuck. Works on the drill press and lathe, too. A bit "bush mechanic" but it works.
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More modified nails for detailing. Not sure if the prototypes are screws, or spikes, but they fasten the stringers to the spacer blocks at each bent.
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With the track already fitted, piloting and hammering in these nails was difficult, but well worth the trouble.
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Quite pleased with how it's turning out so far. The reason I've only fitted one abutment, is that I had only enough leftover cedar bits to make one. Whilst I do have more cedar I could cut down, distress, stain and assemble, that's a pain in the backside. I'll either make an abutment from hebel, to represent a brick or early concrete abutment, or simply bury the stringers in soil and shrubs at that end of the bridge..
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Much easier to paint the rails and nails before installation.
On the last tramway, I used Australian Export gloss Indian Red enamel, sprayed into the can's lid and brushed on. Even without primer, the paint sticks quite well, and fades to a much more appropriate rust colour over a few months. Cheap paint on dirty aluminium and brass, battered by all seasons - It shouldn't work, but somehow does.
This time, I was more sensible, and looked for the 125ml tin version - which as it turns out, isn't available in that colour. So I bought Mission Brown and mixed it with some red, for a close enough match to the sprayed-into-the-lid Indian Red I'd previously used on the points before installing them.

As the track behind the caravan gets no direct sun at all, I figured it prudent to try flattening the paint's finish. An old signwriters' trick is to mix talc into enamel paint to flatten it. I couldn't find unadulterated talc anywhere, so opted to try cornstarch-based baby powder. Again, we'll see how it comes out, when the paint dries. Another (expensive) option would be to brush Tamiya's flat clear over the gloss paint. It holds up surprisingly well in outdoor QLD.
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Regards,
Aaron
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Re: What to do with a tiny, barren wasteland?

Post by Andrew » Wed Aug 12, 2020 5:30 pm

It's all coming along really quickly, and looking great too - I'm guessing you've got a good picture in your head of what you're aiming to achieve and how you're going to get there...

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Re: What to do with a tiny, barren wasteland?

Post by philipy » Wed Aug 12, 2020 7:25 pm

Great write-up Aaron, matches the layout! :D
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Re: What to do with a tiny, barren wasteland?

Post by FWLR » Thu Aug 13, 2020 8:58 am

Keep on telling us with so much detail Arron. :thumbright:

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Re: What to do with a tiny, barren wasteland?

Post by Lonsdaler » Fri Aug 14, 2020 4:56 pm

The use of a mirror is a brilliant idea - I can see it helping with some photo opportunities too. Your railway is coming along really well Aaron - good stuff.
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Re: What to do with a tiny, barren wasteland?

Post by Old Man Aaron » Sun Aug 16, 2020 2:56 am

Thanks again,

After the poor results of the first line I built, and several subsequent years of waiting, I've no intention of messing around this time. If fatigue didn't have me sitting around recovering energy half the time, I'd get things done twice as quickly. Three weeks since laying the first track, the circuit of "Phase One" is now serviceable - though detailing and ballasting are yet to follow. Certainly can't run live steam until the rails are painted..


14/08/20
The gully needed a few more bucket-fulls of dirt removed to better accommodate the bridge. Pieces of a spare besser cap were placed under the piles as support, and packed around with gravel, before covering with soil. The track beyond both ends of the bridge were screwed down to bricks, as previously described.
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I ended up using a slice of Hebel for the abutment at the North end, but forgot to fit some support blocks under the stringers, where they meet the abutment. Will be trickier, but I'll have to clamp them into place whilst the glue dries..

The remaining yard of track was fitted in place, and the Stainz, running light, made a few laps in both directions around the tramway. Only a few very minor faults detected, I'll get to those in a moment.
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15/08/20
The biggest issue (though quite minor) was tackled first. Re-spiking a guard rail on the curved point, that I'd mistakenly fitted too close to the running rail, when I re-timbered the point two years ago. The Stainz' "pizza cutter" wheels were a bit tight through here. Note the high-tech basalt flangeway spacer.
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Using an eclectic mix of Accucraft, Micro Engineering, Sunset Valley and Peco rail, meant the width of railhead often differed at the joints. I doubt it would cause derailments, but don't see any harm in smoothing these joints out a bit. The dremel and sanding drums were put to work, smoothing out around a dozen of these joints. Apologies for the poor focus of this "before" shot, a storm was approaching and my camera doesn't focus well in remotely-dim conditions.
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Before the storm set in however, I was able to get the last of "Phase One" laid - the general store's siding. To help support the track, handfulls of coarse sand were sprinkled over the track and spread with a brush. The idea being that the rain would wash it into the gravel. Predictably, here on the Sunshine Coast, the storm blew over and out to sea in about five minutes. I'll have to wash this in with the hose, as I did with the rest of the track.
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Made a start on painting the rails this morning. Will get some photos when I complete a section..

Regards,
Aaron
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Re: What to do with a tiny, barren wasteland?

Post by philipy » Sun Aug 16, 2020 6:34 am

Looking good Aaron. This final shot of the trackwork is most impressive.
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Re: What to do with a tiny, barren wasteland?

Post by FWLR » Sun Aug 16, 2020 9:30 am

Great job done there. The last photo of your track is very nice indeed.

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Re: What to do with a tiny, barren wasteland?

Post by Old Man Aaron » Mon Aug 24, 2020 12:12 pm

16/08/20
The mirror was again very helpful, in the agonising job of painting the rails. Whilst it would be far nicer to paint them prior to laying, one can never know quite how much track will be needed. Chances are I'll have painted too much or worse, too little track, before laying. And of course, half of the track is flexible; a coat of paint would make bending the track far more difficult - to say nothing of the paint being scraped off, as the chairs slide along the rails' feet.
Interested to hear your thoughts on painting rails, and other detailing of such ilk..
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After three days on-and-off, that painful job is done. It's hell on brushes, killed two of 'em. Thankfully, one coat was enough in most places.
To flatten, about two tablespoons of baby powder were added to the paint, along with a few brass screws in the tin, to help it mix.
How the baby powder affects the life of the paint remains to be seen..
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Months back, during a hold-up on repairing the caravan, I took the opportunity to make a few timber crossing signs and fences from cedar scrap. A piece of coat-hanger wire was epoxied into a hole, drilled in the bottom of each post. Parts were aged in rust/vinegar, assembled, then sprayed with Metalshield flat white, which seems to hold up on timber at the Woodford Railway. The idea behind aging the timber first, is that if the paint ever starts peeling, the exposed wood would look better if it were aged, rather than new and orange. This worked quite well on the crossing signs of my first tramway, many years ago.
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19/08/20
The ground on this side was built up a little higher than needed, so the track ended up in a shallow cutting along here. A few bucketfulls removed had the ground (mostly) levelled with the track. Two fence panels lay waiting in view as a reminder to work out where to "plant" them.
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20/08/20
It didn't take long to realise lacquer thinners on a rag wasn't up to the job of cleaning the railheads, this long after painting. I acknowledge that track-power modellers may be offended by my solution - certainly isn't something I'd use on powered track. A light hand and a fine grit was of course, used.
Very effective though, I wouldn't do it any other way, now.
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Winter's on it's way out, and some plants are starting to feel the effects of the 20-25 Celcius days we're having. This fern has drooped pretty badly, but springs back up after a good drink. A couple of other shrubs however, have all but dried out. It's anyone's guess if they can be saved - I'll have to get onto that planned rainwater tank, and pipe the house air-conditioner's moisture drain to it. I'd spend a fortune on water, otherwise..
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Regards,
Aaron
Last edited by Old Man Aaron on Wed Jul 21, 2021 2:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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