FINAL NEW FWLR LINE
Re: NEW FWLR LINE
I did run my Roundhouse “Patricia Anne” yesterday with having the really nice weather, sunshine all day and no sign of any wind. Unfortunately I can’t run her and video at the same time, otherwise you will have seen her come off the tracks. She did run for about 15 minutes with no sign of any problems, even though she hasn’t run for nearly 8 months. She even lighted 1st time with no “ Blowing Out”…. but she did take some time to steam up. On first start of her running though, she did seem a bit skittish, she was very hard to control, with the Tx having a heck of a job controlling her speed……She hasn’t been right since I had her looked at earlier this year, in February I think, it could have been earlier then that, this memory……
Anyway, it got to the point where she decided she had enough, and fell off on slight bend going on to the back straight by Anne’s Fairy Garden. No damage was done, except for the left side cylinder cover come off…. I really do think I need to have her looked at properly, because the track is a lot smaller then the previous one and she can’t get a good regular steady speed, I think she needs a Slo Mo fitted also. The setting for the regulator are wrong differently from when I bought her off Peter.
Any offers to give her a service and fit a Slo-Mo. It’s a crying shame that such a great little engine is having all this trouble. She also needs her paint work looking at. I know she will cost, but I don’t want to leave her like that and she is so much a part of our railway, there is no way we would part with her.
Anyway, it got to the point where she decided she had enough, and fell off on slight bend going on to the back straight by Anne’s Fairy Garden. No damage was done, except for the left side cylinder cover come off…. I really do think I need to have her looked at properly, because the track is a lot smaller then the previous one and she can’t get a good regular steady speed, I think she needs a Slo Mo fitted also. The setting for the regulator are wrong differently from when I bought her off Peter.
Any offers to give her a service and fit a Slo-Mo. It’s a crying shame that such a great little engine is having all this trouble. She also needs her paint work looking at. I know she will cost, but I don’t want to leave her like that and she is so much a part of our railway, there is no way we would part with her.
ROD
Life is so easy when I run my trains.
https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364
https://www.youtube.com/@fairywoodlightrailway
Life is so easy when I run my trains.
https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364
https://www.youtube.com/@fairywoodlightrailway
Re: NEW FWLR LINE
Hi Rod
If your track is level then you should be able to run slowly without the use of a slomo. I have a very tight and relatively short track - my maximum radius is 39" and there's quite a lot of 30" in there too. I run both a Roundhouse 'Jack" and a 'Lady Anne'. I actually bought the 'Lady Anne' with the intention of fitting a Slomo but I have found that with careful adjustment of the radio linkage to the regulator, good slow speed control can be achieved. It helps of course to have a train behind the locomotive to give it some 'work' to do. If you require a Slomo to build up a reserve via the inertia device then that is a different matter. But for slow running on a flat track then explore the linkage first. There is plenty of debate to be had as to just how much load a Slomo places on the valve gear. I can see that theoretically it probably does but at what point in time this is noticeable is anyone's guess. The available evidence suggests that people don't really notice it (or only the people that don't notice it add to the debate). I decided that I could manage the risk out by not fitting one.
If your track is level then you should be able to run slowly without the use of a slomo. I have a very tight and relatively short track - my maximum radius is 39" and there's quite a lot of 30" in there too. I run both a Roundhouse 'Jack" and a 'Lady Anne'. I actually bought the 'Lady Anne' with the intention of fitting a Slomo but I have found that with careful adjustment of the radio linkage to the regulator, good slow speed control can be achieved. It helps of course to have a train behind the locomotive to give it some 'work' to do. If you require a Slomo to build up a reserve via the inertia device then that is a different matter. But for slow running on a flat track then explore the linkage first. There is plenty of debate to be had as to just how much load a Slomo places on the valve gear. I can see that theoretically it probably does but at what point in time this is noticeable is anyone's guess. The available evidence suggests that people don't really notice it (or only the people that don't notice it add to the debate). I decided that I could manage the risk out by not fitting one.
Re: NEW FWLR LINE
When you say the settings for the regulator are wrong, what do you mean by that?
The regulator can normally be adjusted using the trim controls on the TX. The servo throw can also be played with by moving the clevis clip along the holes in the servo arm.
I am not sure what your set up is but on some of my RH engines the screw clamp that connects the servo rod to the regulator can become slightly loose, this will mean that the servo rod will move but it slides in the clamp and the regulator does not operate on full travel.
If at first you don't succeed, use a bigger hammer!
Re: NEW FWLR LINE
Hi Jim,
I think I will have to put some photos up to show what I mean. Just give me a minute or two to get some.
I think I will have to put some photos up to show what I mean. Just give me a minute or two to get some.
ROD
Life is so easy when I run my trains.
https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364
https://www.youtube.com/@fairywoodlightrailway
Life is so easy when I run my trains.
https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364
https://www.youtube.com/@fairywoodlightrailway
Re: NEW FWLR LINE
These are the setting for the speed regulator,
At rest,
at Full Throttle,
At rest,
at Full Throttle,
ROD
Life is so easy when I run my trains.
https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364
https://www.youtube.com/@fairywoodlightrailway
Life is so easy when I run my trains.
https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364
https://www.youtube.com/@fairywoodlightrailway
Re: NEW FWLR LINE
I don't have anything handy to compare it to at the moment. But it might be worth checking that the grub screw on the regulator arm is tight and the screw on the clamp is tight.
If memory serves me right, I think the difference between full open and full closed on a RH rc regulator is a shade under 90 degrees.
Another area worth investigating is the regulator itself. There is an O ring seal on the needle that can stick. This can happen after a period out of use. This can also cause problems if it is not seated correctly.
Stripping down is not difficult, mark the positions of the linkage and unscrew the regulator arm. Unscrew the gland nut and have a look inside.
If memory serves me right, I think the difference between full open and full closed on a RH rc regulator is a shade under 90 degrees.
Another area worth investigating is the regulator itself. There is an O ring seal on the needle that can stick. This can happen after a period out of use. This can also cause problems if it is not seated correctly.
Stripping down is not difficult, mark the positions of the linkage and unscrew the regulator arm. Unscrew the gland nut and have a look inside.
If at first you don't succeed, use a bigger hammer!
Re: NEW FWLR LINE
Mmmm, mine is no were near that Jim. More like 25 degrees, if that…………..
Also on the Tx, the guy did release the return spring on the lever that controls the speed regulator, so it means it can be left at a set speed without having to keep my finger on it. It does work I suppose, but it’s hard to judge with the loco acting the way she is.
Also on the Tx, the guy did release the return spring on the lever that controls the speed regulator, so it means it can be left at a set speed without having to keep my finger on it. It does work I suppose, but it’s hard to judge with the loco acting the way she is.
ROD
Life is so easy when I run my trains.
https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364
https://www.youtube.com/@fairywoodlightrailway
Life is so easy when I run my trains.
https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364
https://www.youtube.com/@fairywoodlightrailway
Re: NEW FWLR LINE
Okay, I was out a bit with the 90 degrees. I have just checked my Russell, the moment is about 45 degrees.
If at first you don't succeed, use a bigger hammer!
Re: NEW FWLR LINE
Hi Rod
I'm away at the moment and so don't have a loco to hand. When you say that you've had the spring removed - is that because it was a non Roundhouse Tx? Ideally (even if non-Roundhouse) your Tx should be throttle on the left and this should not be sprung in the up down travel. If the left is not sprung then the right will usually be sprung in the L-R travel. Throttle on the left is what is known as a Mode 2 Tx.
A couple of things worth looking at:
Where on its travel is the throttle (regulator) trim set? The factory normally set this at the top of the available travel. This is to allow you to compensate for wear in the regulator 'o' ring. On my "Jack" I actually have mine set at the bottom of the travel as I can virtually drive the Loco on the trim lever (with the main stick fully down) giving quite fine slow speed control - most of the time I use the throttle lever though and consequently when I set up the Lady Anne I set it to the Roundhouse spec..
As you already have a photo record now of the min and max radio throw and control rod length, disconnect the rod from the regulator and see if the arm will move to close off the regulator further (if already the loco is not moving when in gear and up to pressure then you have the answer to this one without any disconnecting - the low throw is set correctly).
If you are looking for slow speed control then you need to be sure that the regulator is fully closed when the throttle stick is at its lowest point (and the trim at its highest point) as above. At the servo end, the further out from centre that you place the control rod on the servo horn then the wider the arc it travels through. The converse is also true and you have both the servo horn and the regulator horn to play with. To be totally clear, the rod on your regulator horn is set in the outermost position. Obviously, from your photos, I can't see the servo horn. So if you wish then you can set this give give you a 'feel' - it depends on how much you want to fiddle!
Personally I do not regard a R/C model to be the same as a manual model - I never take my thumb off the throttle stick - but then again I come from a background of R/C helicopters and racing 1/8th Nitro off road cars - where the consequences of loss of control can be substantial and the time frame from serenity to total destruction can be very rapid indeed!
I'm away at the moment and so don't have a loco to hand. When you say that you've had the spring removed - is that because it was a non Roundhouse Tx? Ideally (even if non-Roundhouse) your Tx should be throttle on the left and this should not be sprung in the up down travel. If the left is not sprung then the right will usually be sprung in the L-R travel. Throttle on the left is what is known as a Mode 2 Tx.
A couple of things worth looking at:
Where on its travel is the throttle (regulator) trim set? The factory normally set this at the top of the available travel. This is to allow you to compensate for wear in the regulator 'o' ring. On my "Jack" I actually have mine set at the bottom of the travel as I can virtually drive the Loco on the trim lever (with the main stick fully down) giving quite fine slow speed control - most of the time I use the throttle lever though and consequently when I set up the Lady Anne I set it to the Roundhouse spec..
As you already have a photo record now of the min and max radio throw and control rod length, disconnect the rod from the regulator and see if the arm will move to close off the regulator further (if already the loco is not moving when in gear and up to pressure then you have the answer to this one without any disconnecting - the low throw is set correctly).
If you are looking for slow speed control then you need to be sure that the regulator is fully closed when the throttle stick is at its lowest point (and the trim at its highest point) as above. At the servo end, the further out from centre that you place the control rod on the servo horn then the wider the arc it travels through. The converse is also true and you have both the servo horn and the regulator horn to play with. To be totally clear, the rod on your regulator horn is set in the outermost position. Obviously, from your photos, I can't see the servo horn. So if you wish then you can set this give give you a 'feel' - it depends on how much you want to fiddle!
Personally I do not regard a R/C model to be the same as a manual model - I never take my thumb off the throttle stick - but then again I come from a background of R/C helicopters and racing 1/8th Nitro off road cars - where the consequences of loss of control can be substantial and the time frame from serenity to total destruction can be very rapid indeed!
Re: NEW FWLR LINE
Like the slate loads Rod, they look just the thing. Hope you get your loco troubles sorted soon...
All the best,
Andrew.
All the best,
Andrew.
- tom_tom_go
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Re: NEW FWLR LINE
Rod, send it my way I will sort it out as long as you cover P&P both ways...
Re: NEW FWLR LINE
Thanks Andrew, they wouldn’t have been possible without your brilliant build of those wagons.
I have run them behind Anne’s Tram, but they just don’t look right…… They did run smoothly though, Anne was really impressed.
ROD
Life is so easy when I run my trains.
https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364
https://www.youtube.com/@fairywoodlightrailway
Life is so easy when I run my trains.
https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364
https://www.youtube.com/@fairywoodlightrailway
- steamgeorge
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Re: NEW FWLR LINE
I like those rivets on your HGLW engine - it adds some fine detail that really brings the model to life.
George
George
Last edited by steamgeorge on Sun Oct 21, 2018 1:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: NEW FWLR LINE
Thanks for the plug, Rod, but I blogged the build of HGLW's LB1 kit, which is similar but not quite the same. I think Chris Bird posted on the forum about his build of the HGLW Wittenberg Schafer kit.
Rik
Re: NEW FWLR LINE
Oops, Sorry Rik, you know what my memory like…..
Anyway, don’t need a reason to plug your’e Blog Rik…..
Everyone should have a look and they will find it so enthralling and informative….
Anyway, don’t need a reason to plug your’e Blog Rik…..
Everyone should have a look and they will find it so enthralling and informative….
ROD
Life is so easy when I run my trains.
https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364
https://www.youtube.com/@fairywoodlightrailway
Life is so easy when I run my trains.
https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364
https://www.youtube.com/@fairywoodlightrailway
Re: NEW FWLR LINE
Thanks George.steamgeorge wrote: ↑Sun Oct 21, 2018 11:51 am I like those rivets on your HGLW engine - it adds some fine detail that really brings the model to life.
George
ROD
Life is so easy when I run my trains.
https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364
https://www.youtube.com/@fairywoodlightrailway
Life is so easy when I run my trains.
https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364
https://www.youtube.com/@fairywoodlightrailway
Re: NEW FWLR LINE
The Willow tree, that's been a bane of the line and the garden is hopefully coming down tomorrow.
The tree,
So has it's being took down, I have had to take up part of our line.
Not a real problem however, because Anne wants me to extend the line at the top curve.
So when the tree and the weather warms up, there will be a slightly longer line at the top curve.
The tree,
So has it's being took down, I have had to take up part of our line.
Not a real problem however, because Anne wants me to extend the line at the top curve.
So when the tree and the weather warms up, there will be a slightly longer line at the top curve.
ROD
Life is so easy when I run my trains.
https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364
https://www.youtube.com/@fairywoodlightrailway
Life is so easy when I run my trains.
https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364
https://www.youtube.com/@fairywoodlightrailway
- Peter Butler
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Re: NEW FWLR LINE
That's a big tree to fell without causing some mess, and potentially, damage. I hope the guys are pros and know their stuff. Please send pictures of them in action.... it would be great to see.
PS.... do you have a wood-burner?
PS.... do you have a wood-burner?
The best things in life are free.... so why am I doing this?
- tom_tom_go
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Re: NEW FWLR LINE
It's a shame it has to be cut down as they are important for wildlife in ever developing urban areas.
I hope it's not being felled just for the railway!
I hope it's not being felled just for the railway!
- Peter Butler
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Re: NEW FWLR LINE
I must agree with your sentiment Tom, but is is clearly a beautiful tree in the wrong place. I love trees, we have lots and I nurture most of them, but if they need to be felled, I do. However, if they are not too well established I prefer to uproot them and plant them elsewhere. I doubt Rod has this option, he has more tree than garden!
The best things in life are free.... so why am I doing this?
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