NWNG Cleminson

River Lin · Post by **River Lin** » Tue Mar 22, 2016 7:03 pm

Hi all.
It's taken a while but have finally got the sides and ends completed, primed and one coat of maroon top coat. I originally tried to apply a dark varnish but despite trying to be careful when gluing all of the small parts together and sanding as much as I dare I could not get rid of glue smears on the wood. This left a very patchy and unacceptable blotchy finish with the dark varnish. During my research I found that the 12 inches to the foot version was quickly changed from varnished wood to maroon paint so I feel justified.
The 5th item in the set is the internal divider to provide two compartments which will have bench seating around the sides of each compartment.
I have also been building new bogies under the floor to lower the coach and have managed to lose about 5mm which should be about right. More pics to follow as work progresses.

Note that because this is a new build I have been able to provide provision for slaters chopper couplings namely an 8mmx3mm slot rather than try to cut it later David

Post by **Andrew** » Tue Mar 22, 2016 7:26 pm

Looking good! I think it'll be nicer in maroon, less shed-like than varnish I reckon. Not that I've got anything against varnished carriages, I just reckon paint will suit this one better...

Looking forward so seeing it take shape - I always like the bit where 2D becomes 3D...

Cheers,

Andrew

Soar Valley Light · Post by **Soar Valley Light** » Tue Mar 22, 2016 10:13 pm

I agree with Andrews comments. It's a lovely looking piece of work and the livery definitely suits it - or is that my Midland roots showing through?

River Lin · Post by **River Lin** » Thu Mar 24, 2016 12:01 pm

So 2D becomes 3D

Now to complete work on the modified underframe and paint and fit the doors and droplights. Then it's on to the roof and fitting out the inside.

River Lin · Post by **River Lin** » Fri Mar 25, 2016 8:10 pm

Now the coach has its boots on I can adjust the coupling hight with shims above the bogies.

Central partition fitted with one door temporarily in place to test fit now the door frames are painted. I think I may have to shave the door edges a little.

View of the new bogies showing the wheels now raised into the bogie top plate to lower the coach and therefore the coupling height.
The next job is to trim all the edges on the doors to allow for paint thickness.

River Lin · Post by **River Lin** » Fri Mar 25, 2016 8:11 pm

River Lin · Post by **River Lin** » Wed Apr 06, 2016 8:07 pm

Hi all.
Frank the driver showing how the new coach is coming along. Doors painted, handles fitted and hung in place.

The Swift Sixteen door handles have a shift about 6/7 mm long which slots through a 2mm hole in the door and extends about 2mm beyond the back of the door. A small plate of thin brass is then made about 8mm long and 5mm wide with a 2mm hole towards one end for the handle shaft to pass through. This plate is then soft soldered to the shaft and filed flat when cool. I employed a piece of card here to stop me accidentally scratching the door paintwork. I then painted the latch black.
After carefully refitting the door and checking the operation of the latch I repeated the above on the other 3 doors.
This is a view of the front and back of the door

laalratty · Post by **laalratty** » Wed Apr 06, 2016 8:41 pm

Very nice work, and I love the working door latches, not something I think I'd be brave enough to try!

River Lin · Post by **River Lin** » Thu Apr 07, 2016 10:21 am

Now on to the removable roof.
I have cut a piece of 0.8mm ply to the size of the coach allowing 5mm extra at each end and 15mm extra in width to allow for the curve of the roof and to give a small overhang.
I have marked for 14 roof trusses ( always allow plenty to give strength to the roof) with the two outer ones being an exact measurement for the internal length of the coach.
I have then marked a line down the centre of the roof to allow for accurate centering of the trusses - see below.

I then cut a piece of ply the exact width of the inside of the coach to mark the roof trusses on to. ( Actually I had a piece ready from when I cut the ends and central partition.)
I drew a line down the middle to allow for accurate lining up on the roof when gluing the trusses and then used my card template that I used for marking the coach ends to Mark 14 roof trusses 10mm wide.
The last action was to mark and centre punch for drilling holes in the trusses for lighting wiring.

River Lin · Post by **River Lin** » Thu Apr 07, 2016 11:26 am

A clearer photo.

Post by **Andrew** » Thu Apr 07, 2016 6:30 pm

Wow, those doors are amazing!

Andrew.

Soar Valley Light · Post by **Soar Valley Light** » Thu Apr 07, 2016 6:57 pm

Hi David,

I agree with Andrew, this whole vehicle is amazing. You clearly possess some very good practical skills. This will be a fantastic vehicle to run on your railway.

All the best,

Andrew

River Lin · Post by **River Lin** » Fri Apr 08, 2016 4:43 pm

14 roof joists cut and sanded. The end ones without wiring holes and the ones next to these with some of the wood removed so that they wont show through the open doors.

David.

robc_wa · Post by **robc_wa** » Sat Apr 09, 2016 5:43 am

River Lin:117253 wrote:
14 roof joists cut and sanded. The end ones without wiring holes and the ones next to these with some of the wood removed so that they wont show through the open doors.

.

David, what make is that jolly handy looking scroll saw?

Regards
Rob

River Lin · Post by **River Lin** » Sun Apr 10, 2016 5:30 pm

Hi Rob.
The saw was on the special offer stand in my local B&Q one day last summef at 29 pounds so i had to have it. It is their own brand ipresume and is not a high class machine but suits me fine. I think it is only 59 pounds full price

.
I clamp it down to hold it firmly and it doesn`t have an air pump to clear saw dust but i saw on the interweb where a man had rigged up a fish tank blower snd a length of piping and it worked a treat.
I had a problem with the plastic blade tensioner on the front top of the arm coming loose but i replaced it with a standard nut and adjust with a small spanner.
Overall then not the best saw i could buy but forthe money it does a good job.

David.

River Lin · Post by **River Lin** » Sun Apr 10, 2016 6:01 pm

Hi all.
Spent time today gluing the roof spars onto the underside of the roof.
I have explained how i do this in a previous thread but in short i use the horizontal pipe slots that are machined into the jaws of my Workmate work bench to hold and curve the roof board while i glue on the spars.
I slide in the roof and slowly close the jaws, letting the roof curve gently downwards. I use the card roof template mentioned previously to get the curve i need to the roof. It is then a simple job to glue each spar onto the lines previously drawn onto the roof board.

4 things to remember-

1. Ensure the two end spars are positioned just inside the two end lines otherwise the roof might not fit on the coach.
2. Line up the centreline on each spar with that on the roof, for the same reason.
3. Use enough glue, especially at the ends of each spar to ensure the roof keeps its correct curve when the pressure of the workmate is released.
4. Leave the glue long enough to set and cure throughly, i suggest overnight.(not that i have ever had a roof try to flatten out again due to my impatience. Oh no.)

Can't wait till tomorrow to try it. Egg on my face if it doesn't fit.

LNR · Post by **LNR** » Mon Apr 11, 2016 4:12 am

Good to see someone using enough beams to maintain a constant camber through out the roof, rather than at the ends and the middle.
Also more beams/glue = less load on each beam to hold the camber.
Grant.

River Lin · Post by **River Lin** » Mon Apr 11, 2016 10:07 am

Hi Grant.
Yep that's my reasoning. When I get the time later I'll post a photo of how it looks now after 24 hours of glue hardening.
David.

River Lin · Post by **River Lin** » Mon Apr 11, 2016 5:19 pm

Hi all.

Roof fits. Now to cover it with ' canvas' before painting.
Photo below shows why i like to fit plenty of roof spars. I am pleased with the way the roof edge seems flat and fits nicely against the cant rail.

David.

Post by **Andrew** » Tue Apr 12, 2016 9:44 pm

That's looking really good, and you're right, the roof does fit very nicely indeed. Some of my earlier carriages could really do with their roofs taking off and lots of trusses adding - some roofs aren't terribly flush with the cant rail, and others have a noticeable dip in the middle...

Coincidentally, this evening I almost finished my WHR Summer Car, cutting the glazing and sliding it into place - tomorrow night I need to do the roof, never a prospect I relish... Recognising the need for more support mid roof I'd cut 6 trusses (I added them to the design for the laser cut stuff I did recently) but then found I'd miscalculated the depth so had to double them up to give only three - I think it'll work, but we'll see...

Anyway, your Cleminson's coming together beautifully, I look forward to seeing photos of it in action...

All the best,

Andrew.

Garden Railway Forum

NWNG Cleminson

Who is online