The best chopper couplings available
- DVT Dweller
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Can't say I've had any real problems with choppers coming uncoupled. I've got a good mix of accucraft and Tenmile. I've also fitted the swiftsixteen choppers to a couple of my locos. Expensive but they don't look as oversized as the Accucraft ones do. They do need abit of work on the chopper themselves as I find they don't sit into the accucraft choppers as designed.
For looks, I'd say Brandbright or swiftsixteen, cheapness I'd say accucraft. I have got some chuffed 2 bits, I think but I can't find them on there website, white metal ones that with a little work will couple to other makes. The only down side is they are white metal so Ive only used them on lightweight stock.
For looks, I'd say Brandbright or swiftsixteen, cheapness I'd say accucraft. I have got some chuffed 2 bits, I think but I can't find them on there website, white metal ones that with a little work will couple to other makes. The only down side is they are white metal so Ive only used them on lightweight stock.
- tom_tom_go
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Hi all.
Bought some brass chopper couplings from Slaters yesterday. Had a good session today putting them together but had to put some of my own ideas into fitting them to my coaches as the small instruction sheet does not make things very clear. One great addition is one coupling has an up and over hook that locates over a horn on the opposite chopper, holding it in place. Hopefully the photo makes this clear.
Also, when not being used the couplings retract into the coach somewhat using hidden springs. When connected and pulling, the couplings pull out by about 7/8 mm allowing for a greater sideways movement on curves.
Anybody have any ideas on how to simply blacken the brass as I want it to look like old metal not painted.
David
Bought some brass chopper couplings from Slaters yesterday. Had a good session today putting them together but had to put some of my own ideas into fitting them to my coaches as the small instruction sheet does not make things very clear. One great addition is one coupling has an up and over hook that locates over a horn on the opposite chopper, holding it in place. Hopefully the photo makes this clear.
Also, when not being used the couplings retract into the coach somewhat using hidden springs. When connected and pulling, the couplings pull out by about 7/8 mm allowing for a greater sideways movement on curves.
Anybody have any ideas on how to simply blacken the brass as I want it to look like old metal not painted.
David
David T.
- paullad1984
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- tom_tom_go
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Si & Rob`s Blue Jollop works well on brass:
http://www.modelearth.net/
Can we have more pictures of the chopper coupling please? I would like to see it connected if possible. How much a set?
http://www.modelearth.net/
Can we have more pictures of the chopper coupling please? I would like to see it connected if possible. How much a set?
Hi
The slaters couplings are,
Ref 16A11
16mm scale standard chopper couplings. £9.04 (pack of two)
Notice I have used one chopper per two units as I found that the pin through one chopper would stop the 2nd from making a connection but being made of brass I feel there is enough strength there. Also there is a little locking hoop that prevents the chopper from opening.
I will do a little work later to ensure all the coupling heights are the same by adjusting the bogies on each coach when all couplings are fitted.
David.
The slaters couplings are,
Ref 16A11
16mm scale standard chopper couplings. £9.04 (pack of two)
Notice I have used one chopper per two units as I found that the pin through one chopper would stop the 2nd from making a connection but being made of brass I feel there is enough strength there. Also there is a little locking hoop that prevents the chopper from opening.
I will do a little work later to ensure all the coupling heights are the same by adjusting the bogies on each coach when all couplings are fitted.
David.
David T.
- Soar Valley Light
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David,
They really look the business. I'm very impressed. I'm going to investigate these further, the fact that they are sprung is very attractive. Thanks for sharing the detail. I must keep my eyes open for them in the flesh, so to speak. I'd like to see more to understand them better.
All the best,
Andrew
They really look the business. I'm very impressed. I'm going to investigate these further, the fact that they are sprung is very attractive. Thanks for sharing the detail. I must keep my eyes open for them in the flesh, so to speak. I'd like to see more to understand them better.
All the best,
Andrew
"Smith! Why do you only come to work four days a week?
"'cause I can't manage on three gaffer!"
"'cause I can't manage on three gaffer!"
- tom_tom_go
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- IrishPeter
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- Location: 'Boro, VA
The hoop over the horn of the chopper is the usual solution to the problem of them jumping and uncoupling. The Norwegians favour a cast iron ball on a length of chain, which must be pretty effective as they only seem to use a single safety chain. I would imagine a short length of fine-ish chain with a decent size round fishing weight on the end would work, but I have not tried it yet. Reasonably even track and consistent buffer heights are more important to keeping things coupled together. You would need to put the chain through the hole where you had taken the south end chopper off. I remove the south end hooks on all my rolling stock as I find I have less trouble coupling and uncoupling if there is only one hook per vehicle with which to contend.
Peter in AZ
Peter in AZ
Last edited by IrishPeter on Sat Sep 12, 2015 1:39 am, edited 1 time in total.
Traffic Pattern? What pattern? Spuds out; grain in, but cattle, sheep and passengers are a lot less predictable.
Hi all.
Firstly an apology. On April 13 I said that on the Slaters 16A11 couplings it was only possible to use one chopper to connect two units together. Not being totally happy with this I disassembled the unit, cleaned off any burrs etc and reassembled it again, Slowly and Carefully. The result you can see from the attached photo. A set of beautifully made brass castings put together to make a precision unit utilising two choppers, fitting together perfectly.
So sorry again Mr Slater for misrepresenting your product. I promise not to do it again.
I have since ordered more which arrived within 48 hours.
David.
Firstly an apology. On April 13 I said that on the Slaters 16A11 couplings it was only possible to use one chopper to connect two units together. Not being totally happy with this I disassembled the unit, cleaned off any burrs etc and reassembled it again, Slowly and Carefully. The result you can see from the attached photo. A set of beautifully made brass castings put together to make a precision unit utilising two choppers, fitting together perfectly.
So sorry again Mr Slater for misrepresenting your product. I promise not to do it again.
I have since ordered more which arrived within 48 hours.
David.
David T.
David, those Slater's are great looking couplers. And I like the "locking" hoop.
Question: I noticed you mounted them so that just the outer shank is showing, only about 12mm or so. But the rest of the shank is quite long and the threaded portion is only about the last 7 or 8mm on the rounded shank portion. How do you mount them? Do they come with a bracket to attach behind the buffer? How did you do the square hole?
Thanks.
Greg
Question: I noticed you mounted them so that just the outer shank is showing, only about 12mm or so. But the rest of the shank is quite long and the threaded portion is only about the last 7 or 8mm on the rounded shank portion. How do you mount them? Do they come with a bracket to attach behind the buffer? How did you do the square hole?
Thanks.
Greg
- tom_tom_go
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Hi Greg.
To answer your questions.
Above is a coupling on a coach with a drawing to make things clearer how I am doing it.
A - coupling head.
B - square portion on shift.
C - coach body with hole widened to the outside.
D - washer. Size to slide along round threaded portion of shaft but will not go onto square section of shaft. This washer is to stop the shaft sliding out of the coach body. This washer is not included in the kit.
E - spring on the round, threaded portion of shift.
F - nut to retain spring. I added a second as a locknut.
No bracket is included to attach the coupling to the underside of the coach.
I had a small hole drilled already for a buffer coupling so I squared this hole with a square needle file to accept the square shaft and then angled the hole width ways to allow the coupling to swing horizontally.
Here is a photo with the coupling in place with a rectangular plywood plate added to neaten up the look of the hole. I think it looks like a backing plate for the coupling. I might make some tougher plates in brass at a later date.
Sorry to ramble on but hope this helps to show how I fitted the couplings. There may be other methods and I might make modifications in the future.
David.
To answer your questions.
Above is a coupling on a coach with a drawing to make things clearer how I am doing it.
A - coupling head.
B - square portion on shift.
C - coach body with hole widened to the outside.
D - washer. Size to slide along round threaded portion of shaft but will not go onto square section of shaft. This washer is to stop the shaft sliding out of the coach body. This washer is not included in the kit.
E - spring on the round, threaded portion of shift.
F - nut to retain spring. I added a second as a locknut.
No bracket is included to attach the coupling to the underside of the coach.
I had a small hole drilled already for a buffer coupling so I squared this hole with a square needle file to accept the square shaft and then angled the hole width ways to allow the coupling to swing horizontally.
Here is a photo with the coupling in place with a rectangular plywood plate added to neaten up the look of the hole. I think it looks like a backing plate for the coupling. I might make some tougher plates in brass at a later date.
Sorry to ramble on but hope this helps to show how I fitted the couplings. There may be other methods and I might make modifications in the future.
David.
David T.
I took this shot at UHB on Sunday.
This shows the typical ball and chain lock and single safety chain.
Must take a closer look at those Slaters couplings.
This shows the typical ball and chain lock and single safety chain.
Must take a closer look at those Slaters couplings.
- Soar Valley Light
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- IrishPeter
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- Location: 'Boro, VA
I have had a go at the ball and chain arrangement, and it is very effective at discouraging chopper jump. The penny also dropped on why the speed limit on Tertitten lines was 25km/h - no automatic brake.
Very nice detail photo, BTW.
Peter in AZ
Very nice detail photo, BTW.
Peter in AZ
Traffic Pattern? What pattern? Spuds out; grain in, but cattle, sheep and passengers are a lot less predictable.
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