Rather than make the roof removable, I build mine so that the body drops on to the floor. That way you're mating two flat surfaces, not two curved surfaces.andysleigh wrote: I want to do the roof removeable, which means i have to find some way of making some curved cross bits.
if i was still at school, i could use the laser cutter,,,
IP roundhouse 3 compartment coaches
- andysleigh
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For the floor, i'd leave it natural wood, although you can use brown paper vanished to represent lino if you want, or felt for carpet, or wood stain, however, I don't think you would find many painted floors in carriages
"What the hell is that?"
"It's a model icebreaker sir."
"It's a bit big isn't it?"
"It's a full scale model sir....."
"It's a model icebreaker sir."
"It's a bit big isn't it?"
"It's a full scale model sir....."
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I usally do mine either black or a stained matt dye, not varnish. The dye gives it a less than new walked on feel rather tahn a shiny ex works look.
http://www.freewebs.com/pinetreelightrailway/index.
Cecil your engines on Fire!
Its a Mamod it does that.
Cecil your engines on Fire!
Its a Mamod it does that.
- andysleigh
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Simple answer, Noandysleigh wrote:one thing that i have noticed that worrys me, is-
is the width of the floor ment to be wider than the width of the bottom of the end pannel....
the floor is 103 mm wide
the end panel is 101 mm wide
I had the same problem with mine and unless you take a couple of mm's of you cant bend the sides round to fit the ends.
http://www.freewebs.com/pinetreelightrailway/index.
Cecil your engines on Fire!
Its a Mamod it does that.
Cecil your engines on Fire!
Its a Mamod it does that.
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Yes they have, laalratty has commented on the VoR Laser Cut brakevan and there's a review of the bug boxes in Garden Rail (I'm hoping to get some of these soon so shall tell you my opinion also).pauly wrote:ip do fantastic loco kits and wagon kits but they dont seem to have got the hang of making coach kits yet.
Well then they just need to get their act together with the roundhouse range then.
http://www.freewebs.com/pinetreelightrailway/index.
Cecil your engines on Fire!
Its a Mamod it does that.
Cecil your engines on Fire!
Its a Mamod it does that.
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Hate to say it Andy, but your only choice is going to be a lot of hard sanding unless you are good with a jig saw or have a power sander
I can imagine that soon all IP kit floors will end up being laser cut but with the sides still routed
I can imagine that soon all IP kit floors will end up being laser cut but with the sides still routed
"What the hell is that?"
"It's a model icebreaker sir."
"It's a bit big isn't it?"
"It's a full scale model sir....."
"It's a model icebreaker sir."
"It's a bit big isn't it?"
"It's a full scale model sir....."
- andysleigh
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bloody kits.
I know i should have checked everything before i built it, but i am the kind of person who justs wants to get it made.
The amoutn of problems with the kit is anoying.
Including the major warpage of the ends.
I dont think theres any chance of a refund on the one i have painted, but maybe with the one still in the bag, if its the same.
I know i should have checked everything before i built it, but i am the kind of person who justs wants to get it made.
The amoutn of problems with the kit is anoying.
Including the major warpage of the ends.
I dont think theres any chance of a refund on the one i have painted, but maybe with the one still in the bag, if its the same.
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- andysleigh
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The kits are all really built to a price, ideally you need to add a lot more strip wood, nicer detail castings, ribs for a removeable roof, stretchers to reinforce the roof, a nice rolled aluminium or brass roof. The list could go on and on...and then the kits wind up costing a fortune! If you do all those additions yourself the cost gets spread out so it's manageable.MuzTrem wrote:I don't understand why more manufacturers don't design their kits with removable roofs in mind.
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