Garden Railway Forum

philipy wrote: ↑Tue Jun 11, 2019 10:24 am You can solve the cracking problem by using "Decalset" ( or similar) when you apply the decals. It softens the film and allows it to be drawn tightly around small obstacles.

The 'slightly glossy sheen' of the carrier film will largely disappear when the whole thing is given an overspray of varnish, whether matt, eggshell or gloss

I second what Philipy has said.

As well as drawing the decal down onto the surface, decal set will soften the edge of the clear film so it blends in better when clear coated.

If the surface is very complex, even a decal setting solvent may not help and sometimes you just have to slit the decal film with a new scalpel blade and touch in the cracks later with paint.

Always apply waterslide decals on a gloss surface. On a matt or satin surface even Solvaset won't remove all the air trapped under the decal and when the final clear coat is applied you get the effect known as 'silvering' in the areas under the clear film.

Dry transfers do have the advantage of not silvering and are less particular about the gloss level of the surface.

Regards,
Graeme

OK, some great suggestions here. Thanks all! I like the idea of printing a black background on white paper. And I was already thinking that an all-over coat of satin varnish would mitigate any glossyness of the carrier. I've never heard of these 'Decalset' products. I'll have to ask around.

There is a couple of decent hobby shops around, but I think my letters will have to be taller in font size than anything they're likely to carry.

There are a number of similar products from various manufacturers. I've got a bottle of the Humbrol version which I've had for years, but most of them are at the beginning on this Amazon listing.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/slp/decal-set/sy7asefucph4orz

Thanks for the info guys.
Can I ask a really silly question if I may... Can I print my own decals from my inkjet printer on ordinary paper and use the Micro Sol, Micro Set and Liquid Decal Film for decal making...Or do I need special paper for inkjet that will allow me to print decals.

What size also is correct for the printing of them, 18,20,22,24 and so on.

FWLR wrote: ↑Wed Jun 12, 2019 9:17 am Can I print my own decals from my inkjet printer on ordinary paper and use the Micro Sol, Micro Set and Liquid Decal Film for decal making...Or do I need special paper for inkjet that will allow me to print decals.

What size also is correct for the printing of them, 18,20,22,24 and so on.

You need decal film for inkjet printers, such as https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw ... t&_sacat=0

Be aware that inkjet decals will run if they get wet, even with varnish over the top.

The correct size is whatever size you want - your railway, your rules! ( unless you are building a scale model of a protype, of course)

philipy wrote: ↑Wed Jun 12, 2019 9:38 am

FWLR wrote: ↑Wed Jun 12, 2019 9:17 am Can I print my own decals from my inkjet printer on ordinary paper and use the Micro Sol, Micro Set and Liquid Decal Film for decal making...Or do I need special paper for inkjet that will allow me to print decals.

What size also is correct for the printing of them, 18,20,22,24 and so on.

You need decal film for inkjet printers, such as https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw ... t&_sacat=0

Be aware that inkjet decals will run if they get wet, even with varnish over the top.

The correct size is whatever size you want - your railway, your rules! ( unless you are building a scale model of a protype, of course)

I haven't used the inkjet paper, but my understanding is that it is a lot more convoluted.
My sister-inlaw who is a librarian said that most libraries will print output for people, if you test print on ordinary paper, and then were to take the file to your local library on a memory stick along with a sheet of Laser Decal Paper, they may be able to help. The most complicated part of the process is putting the paper in the right way up!

I have some transfers to do in the next week or so, if you send me what you want I will run it off and post it to you.

BorisSpencer wrote: ↑Wed Jun 12, 2019 12:01 pm

I haven't used the inkjet paper, but my understanding is that it is a lot more convoluted.

No, not really, just put it in the printer in the same way as ordinary paper. As you say, the most complicated part is getting the sheet the right way up!

The only potential complication I can think of, is that you might possibly need to play with colour intensity, depending on the colour you are printing and the background colour it will be applied to. However it is essential to leave the printed sheet for some hours, overnight if possible, before touching it, to ensure that it is dry.

big-ted wrote: ↑Fri Jun 07, 2019 4:50 pm
Any suggestions appreciated.

In the past I've used Crafty Computer paper decal paper. There is a Waterslide paper and a Dry Rub paper though the latter requires a bit of a learning curve to get it right. Both types are ok with an inkjet printer but there is the usual restriction about white backgrounds.
I've not bought any for a long time so I'm only assuming they are still in business.

Oki make a laser printer that will print in white and colour, but they are in the professional range and aren't cheap. I saw one locally with a price of A$4k and that was second hand......

There's a mob in Germany who make white laser toner and decal paper (they call it decal foil). They sell white toner for a range of laser printers, but the cartridges aren't cheap either. https://www.ghost-white-toner.com/

Epson make industrial inkjet printers that can print white, but again the prices are at eye-watering levels.

The old ALPS MD series printers might have been a bit pricey for home use when they were readily available, but they were never in the same league as the current alternatives for printing in white.

Whatever you do, never put a sheet of inkjet decal paper through a laser printer. It isn't designed to be heat proof and the fuser roll in a laser printer gets very hot.

Regards,
Graeme

Well, I think it came out pretty good for my first try.
Wagon basecoat is satin black. Lettering is a black background laser-printed onto white waterslide paper, then matte-clear coat over the top to seal the transfers. I did find the black ink tended to rub off the transfers very easily, so that the transfers looked quite tatty by the time they were applied & dry. However, a black sharpie is very much your friend here, as it was very easy to touch up various spots before clear coating.

That is looking good, well done. If the lettering does rub you can always touch it up again.

If the lettering rubs off in places it will look authentic!

That looks very nice, I'm going to have to get some white transfer paper now and have a go myself.

This only works well on black painted wagons, though.
I tried to do much the same with some yellow lettering on a green background but try as I might I could never get the printed green on the transfer to match the painted green on the railbus sides.

philipy wrote: ↑Mon Jun 24, 2019 12:01 pm This only works well on black painted wagons, though.
I tried to do much the same with some yellow lettering on a green background but try as I might I could never get the printed green on the transfer to match the painted green on the railbus sides.

This is true. I'd like to make up some data markings for some grey box vans now that I have the technique down. Need to find a grey sharpie...

tom_tom_go wrote: ↑Mon Jun 24, 2019 8:21 am If the lettering rubs off in places it will look authentic!

Right. Trouble is, with this method, it isn't the lettering that rubs off, but the black surrounding area, hence the sharpie to touch up. If I go over the lines with the sharpie & encroach on the letters, that's just wear & tear...

big-ted wrote: ↑Mon Jun 24, 2019 2:24 pm I'd like to make up some data markings for some grey box vans now that I have the technique down. Need to find a grey sharpie...

It wasn't uncommon for a railway to paint the wagon no, load, tare, maintenance dates, etc. lettering in white on black patches, especially if the wagon was painted a light grey. That way you can keep using a black sharpie for touching up.

Art supply shops sell marking pens in a wide range of colours, but like inkjet printers the ink is fairly transparent and the chances of finding a pen that matched the paint would be somewhere between slim and none. There are opaque paint pens available, but the colour range is very limited.

Regards,
Graeme

GTB wrote: ↑Mon Jun 24, 2019 4:47 pm

big-ted wrote: ↑Mon Jun 24, 2019 2:24 pm I'd like to make up some data markings for some grey box vans now that I have the technique down. Need to find a grey sharpie...

It wasn't uncommon for a railway to paint the wagon no, load, tare, maintenance dates, etc. lettering in white on black patches, especially if the wagon was painted a light grey. That way you can keep using a black sharpie for touching up.

Genius!

I'm very late to this conversation, not having checked into the forum for some months, but I have printed all my own decals on a laser printer, with (to me) acceptable results. I find that the edges of the decals need 'touching in' with paint matching the base coat they are applied to, as the white paper they are printed onto shows at the edges.
Interestingly, I recently ordered more of the 'same' paper from the supplier, (Crafty Computer Paper) and I can no longer produce good quality prints - it appears that the formulation of the paper has changed, and now there is a very narrow range of printers that they recommend for printing on - sadly not including mine However, I used a friends inkjet and some of their inkjet paper, and have produced decals of the same quality - but you must apply a layer of lacquer to the finished, dried decal before applying it to the model.
I've attached a couple of images showing some of the decals I have produced. Gretadale Diaries milk tanker
The railways workhorse, Mochyn

Welcome back to the forum Phil. Where have you been....

They are brilliant both of them Phil. Pity your supplier don't have the same paper you used before, I can't see much difference myself and I suppose when they are on the track no one else would be able to either....

Can you tell me what type of paper your friend used, I myself have a Canon Inkjet, which is pretty good. Haven't tried any printing for my stock though, I haven't got the confidence....