NWNG Railways No.1

[River Lin]

Hi all.
Quite pleased with my first two trial attempts using the leather punch and craft knife in thin plywood. Just a little cleaning up needed.
I am going to give it a go with a small piece of the proper beading.

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David.

[LNR]

David PM sent.
Grant.

[River Lin]

Hi JMORG.
The maroon i have used is actually Plasti-kote Burgundy B42 which to me is a lovely rich dark maroon. I think a very good match for Roundhouse Victorian maroon.
The drawing i did myself from the pics on page 1 of this thread and basic measurements from Boyd.
David.

[River Lin]

Hi all
It's not easy and its not quick but it's do-able.
I have done 11 cutouts out of a total of 80 and it is getting easier as i learn how to work the files and hold the wood.
For the window cutouts I am using the leather punch but only making a small hole, about 3mm, and not quite in the corner. I am then using a needle file to to enlarge the hole into the corner and then using the knife to cut the straight sides.
For the top slots i am using the punch again a couple of mm from each end and then using the small file to enlarge the hole to allow me to use a larger file to enlarge the hole to the end and top and bottom of the slot, then use the knife as before. The bottom slots are done in exactly the same way exapt that i need to use a third file to enlarge the hole to the required diameter. As luck would have it i already own round files whose diameter equals the widths of the slots i am cutting so allowing me to get an exact size of end curve.
Using a tip from Grant on this forum i am using the file like a drill in my hand, twisting it lightly to enlarge the hole slowly without forcing it.

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Progress so far.
I am getting better and neater. It will take a couple of weeks i think but i will persevere. I may redo the panel on the left later as some of the corners could be better. One thing i only noticed this afternoon is that the beading around the opening windows does not have curved corners at the bottom, only at the top for some reason.
David.

[Peter Butler]

I think you deserve a knighthood for services to garden railways for your determination to achieve perfection.

[JMORG]

Thank you David,
I need to do a proper brake carriage for my NWNGR set and I'm leaning more to this carriage over the Pickering; seems more elegant in comparison...

[River Lin]

Hi JMORG
A couple of points in favour of a Pickering are that you can buy it as a kit allowing one to modify it as you feel fit and if you do a self build all of the beading is straight with 90 degree corners. I am allowing all of the summer to build my No.1 because of the complicated nature of it. Whichever you go for keep us posted on progress.
David

[River Lin]

Hi all.
Progress report. End of day 3.

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The knife is over the 1st class (centre) door so i am over half way on side one. It is SLOW going but i am getting there. Bet you can't guess which bits i was most worried about breaking. But so far so good.
I will leave you all alone for the next few days while i crack on but will post again when i get towards the end of this marathon. Did i say only 80 holes to cut?
David.

[Lonsdaler]

Hi all.
I have cut the partitions to width but while thinking about the height i looked back at my paperwork to see that the coach had 3 roof oil lamps. It seems that the central 1st. Class compartment had a lamp of its own but the two compartments either side of this one shared a lamp between each pair. This must mean that the partitions between them must have been shorter than full height to allow for this.

Hello David,
Just catching up having been 'absent' for a while, and I'm really impressed by your workmanship
I recall seeing a coach in the National Railway Museum where two third compartments shared a lamp (I can't provide more information I'm afraid, it's a memory from a trip some time ago). The partition had a hole big enough for the lamp, rather than being to a lower height all the way across, thus maintaining the 'integrity' of each compartment, if I make myself clear? Somewhat late now, I know - sorry I didn't catch your thread earlier.

[River Lin]

Hi Phil.
I had thought about both possibilities but looking at the faded plan on page 1 of this thread and a drawing in the section on the NWNG railway in the book by Boyd, Narrow Gauge Railways in South Caernarvonshire, it looks to me that only the partition ajoining the 1st class compartment goes into the roof space. That between the 3rd class and guards compartment seems to stop just under the lamp. My interpretation is that you cannot see the far side of the partition going up behind the lamp into the roof space.
It is all a matter of interpretation and without anything more concrete we have to follow instincts but i appreciate your views.

Latest update on the beading is that i am now well along side 2. I will post later in the week.

David

[Lonsdaler]

Hi Phil.
I had thought about both possibilities but looking at the faded plan on page 1 of this thread and a drawing in the section on the NWNG railway in the book by Boyd, Narrow Gauge Railways in South Caernarvonshire, it looks to me that only the partition ajoining the 1st class compartment goes into the roof space. That between the 3rd class and guards compartment seems to stop just under the lamp. My interpretation is that you cannot see the far side of the partition going up behind the lamp into the roof space.
It is all a matter of interpretation and without anything more concrete we have to follow instincts but i appreciate your views.

Latest update on the beading is that i am now well along side 2. I will post later in the week.

David

I'll look forward to seeing where you've got to, and of course the finished item in due course

[River Lin]

Hi all.
It's been a very busy summer for us with home alterations and so modelling has had to take a back seat.
A week or so ago however i was able to restart my beading and apart from cleaning up i think it is just about finished.
Each side is made up of 3 parts including the one for the guards ducket. This particular piece has to be elongated to follow the curve around the ducket.

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I think fine glasspapering is the next job on all pieces including the body prior to priming.
There is some more beading to add below window level but as this is to be all body colour i could add it before painting starts.
David.

[Soar Valley Light]

That looks fantastic David. So much effort but the results look to be well worth it.

I can sympathise with the delays caused by domestic improvements. We have a bathroom rebuild underway that's been going on for nearly four months now! Supporting the tradesmen has really stalled work on the railway. It's frustrating to say the least.

Now your carriage works has recommenced operations I'm looking forward to seeing the project move forwards. I'm particularly looking forward to seeing the paint job. Please keep us posted.

Andrew

[philipy]

That looks seriously impressive, you should be very proud of that. Looking forward to seeing further progress.

[Big Jim]

Very, very nice. I think the word masterpiece might be appropriate.

[LNR]

I can only echo what those above have said. Have been looking forward to a progress report and you did not disappoint. Such delicate work, each piece to be handled with much care I imagine.
Grant.

[Peter Butler]

Incredibly detailed and inspiring work, I'm envious of your skill with your chosen material.

[River Lin]

Hi all.
Thanks for all the kind comments.
While cutting and sanding the last little bits of beading, i have applied and sanded 2 coats of primer on the coach body below the waist. This is because in the past i have been a little disappointed with the finish of painted wood due to not enough primer coats before the top coat allowing the wood grain texture to be too prominent.

I can now start to add the lower body beading knowing that when i prime and add the top coat it already has a smooth primer surface. If i glued the beading onto unprepared wood, even if i sanded it to a good finish first, the primer coat would make the woodgrain stand up. This would then be more difficult to sand down again with the beading in place.

I have decided to paint the upper body and beading separately first and glue after to allow the cream panels to look crisp behind the red beading.

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David.

[River Lin]

Hi all.
Have spent time today adding beading below window level. Looking at the photo of the coach in service, I needed to cut two sizes. One, the same thickness as the upper beading and one a smaller profile for around the doors. The thicker one i used a knife along a cutting rule with the thin ply used previously and for the smaller profile i needed 20 thou. thick and only 1mm (40mm) wide. For this i used a balsa stripper from a well known internet auction site.

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Progress so far. I clipped the upper beading temporarily in place to act as a guide for cutting and gluing the lower. The ducket was also used to accurately space the gap needed. The beading below the ducket is now also glued in place and when the ducket with its beading is finally in place i intend to use a little filler to give a seamless join between the two.

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David.

[LNR]

Patience personified.
Grant.