NWNG Railways No.1
Re: NWNG Railways No.1
Hi all. Latest update.
Coach inside panels scribed and two coats of teak stain added. I like to brush the stain well into the surface to force plenty into the scribed lines. This makes for a good dark line. Before i use the stain i brush the lines with a tooth brush to remove every bit of dust to allow maximum space for the stain. I am now working on the tumblehome to the sides. I will show my results over the weekend.
David.
Coach inside panels scribed and two coats of teak stain added. I like to brush the stain well into the surface to force plenty into the scribed lines. This makes for a good dark line. Before i use the stain i brush the lines with a tooth brush to remove every bit of dust to allow maximum space for the stain. I am now working on the tumblehome to the sides. I will show my results over the weekend.
David.
David T.
Re: NWNG Railways No.1
I've always thought coaches with tumblehome stand alone in the beauty stakes, shall be interested to see how you go about holding the tumblehome.
Are you going to laminate the sides and over curve them slightly? I imagine seating and bulkheads might play a part too!
Grant.
Are you going to laminate the sides and over curve them slightly? I imagine seating and bulkheads might play a part too!
Grant.
Re: NWNG Railways No.1
Latest update from yesterday.
I felt it time to attempt the tumblehome. In a previous post i mentioned that when i glued the middle layer to the outside layer i left the lower 15mm unglued. Now it was time to open these two layers a little with the end of a metal rule and push glue between with a fine artists paintbrush. This side was then cramped down on to the surface of my workbench with a piece of 3mm ply under the lower edge to form a curved edge hoping that this laminated curve would stay permanent once the glue had dried. Moving on to this morning i glued the stained inside panel to last nights work to form the third layer of the lamination using edible weights and bulldog clips to hold the panel to the tumblehome curve while the glue set. Now dry i am very pleased with the result, bearing in mind i had not attempted a tumblehome before. Due to a slight spring in the plywood i have a bottom edge that is about 2.5 mill curved inwards from the vertical which looks a good representation of the real thing shown in photos and the plan. I also slipped in one of the droplights from the top and it held itself in position well with just a little friction, though they are still untreated wood. I think my next job is to work on the coach ends including copying the tumblehome curve onto them and finishing their beading.
David.
I felt it time to attempt the tumblehome. In a previous post i mentioned that when i glued the middle layer to the outside layer i left the lower 15mm unglued. Now it was time to open these two layers a little with the end of a metal rule and push glue between with a fine artists paintbrush. This side was then cramped down on to the surface of my workbench with a piece of 3mm ply under the lower edge to form a curved edge hoping that this laminated curve would stay permanent once the glue had dried. Moving on to this morning i glued the stained inside panel to last nights work to form the third layer of the lamination using edible weights and bulldog clips to hold the panel to the tumblehome curve while the glue set. Now dry i am very pleased with the result, bearing in mind i had not attempted a tumblehome before. Due to a slight spring in the plywood i have a bottom edge that is about 2.5 mill curved inwards from the vertical which looks a good representation of the real thing shown in photos and the plan. I also slipped in one of the droplights from the top and it held itself in position well with just a little friction, though they are still untreated wood. I think my next job is to work on the coach ends including copying the tumblehome curve onto them and finishing their beading.
David.
David T.
- Peter Butler
- Driver
- Posts: 5219
- Joined: Sun Sep 09, 2012 10:33 pm
- Location: West Wales
Re: NWNG Railways No.1
Now that I like...... just trying to think of a way to make the process work using plasticard.
The best things in life are free.... so why am I doing this?
Re: NWNG Railways No.1
Hi.
I would have thought it would work. As long as the solvent adhesive between the layers of plasticard stays liquid long enough to allow you to form and cramp the curve before curing you should end up with success. The layers need to slide over one another as the curve is formed.
David
I would have thought it would work. As long as the solvent adhesive between the layers of plasticard stays liquid long enough to allow you to form and cramp the curve before curing you should end up with success. The layers need to slide over one another as the curve is formed.
David
David T.
Re: NWNG Railways No.1
Hi all.
Cut the tumblehome curves on the end panels and scribed and stained their internal planking today.
Outer view just propped up to show tumblehome. And inner. I can now finish and attach the beading to the end panels.
David.
Cut the tumblehome curves on the end panels and scribed and stained their internal planking today.
Outer view just propped up to show tumblehome. And inner. I can now finish and attach the beading to the end panels.
David.
David T.
- Soar Valley Light
- Driver
- Posts: 1451
- Joined: Sun Dec 08, 2013 5:18 pm
- Location: North West Leicestershire
Re: NWNG Railways No.1
Lovely work again David - and really effective photos!
Andrew
Andrew
"Smith! Why do you only come to work four days a week?
"'cause I can't manage on three gaffer!"
"'cause I can't manage on three gaffer!"
Re: NWNG Railways No.1
Hi all.
I have now been able to copy the curves from the lower edges of the coach ends onto the beading panels, complete the cutting out and glue on. Could'nt wait to see how it looks in its rough state. I am really pleased with how the beading makes the curve stand out.
David.
I have now been able to copy the curves from the lower edges of the coach ends onto the beading panels, complete the cutting out and glue on. Could'nt wait to see how it looks in its rough state. I am really pleased with how the beading makes the curve stand out.
David.
David T.
Re: NWNG Railways No.1
That is going to look a picture when finished. Question, do the drop lights on the real thing drop right down to the sill. I notice that yours appears about to enter the tumblehome curve and wondered do the real ones have enough thickness in the wall to allow for this.
Grant.
Grant.
Re: NWNG Railways No.1
Looking good!
Just so you know, the FR is planning on building a replica of this carriage...
Just so you know, the FR is planning on building a replica of this carriage...
Re: NWNG Railways No.1
Grant.
Hi. In the photo of the 12inch to the foot coach in my first post on this thread. It looks like the droplights do indeed drop down to the sill. Due to how i am making my model, my windows are designed to drop down about 2/3 so they do not jam in the tumblehome. (See photo 5 earlier.) David.
Hi. In the photo of the 12inch to the foot coach in my first post on this thread. It looks like the droplights do indeed drop down to the sill. Due to how i am making my model, my windows are designed to drop down about 2/3 so they do not jam in the tumblehome. (See photo 5 earlier.) David.
David T.
Re: NWNG Railways No.1
JMORG
Hi. If they do i hope they put luxury in the 1st class compartment as indicated by the original plan. I bet someone will then bring out a laser cut16mm kit.
David.
Hi. If they do i hope they put luxury in the 1st class compartment as indicated by the original plan. I bet someone will then bring out a laser cut16mm kit.
David.
David T.
Re: NWNG Railways No.1
I suspect that if 1st class is put back in it will be similar to the bowsiders and iron framed stock. When carriage 152 enters service, the current carriage 100 is going to be refitted as a third class top obs like 123. The old first class seats may end up in other stock like the NWNGR brake comp.
Re: NWNG Railways No.1
Hi Peter et al.
Following on the thread of how i made the tumblehome using lamination of wood layers, i thought i would tackle the guards duckets next. I knew that it is possible to use steam or boiling water to soften plasticard. It could then be formed to the required shape, held till cold and it will then retain its new shape. My experience is that even though it was cold when the pressure was released it slowly straightened out again to almost its original shape - flat.
I next decided to try laminating using two pieces of 0.6mm plasticard cut to width but longer to allow for cutting to length when finished.
I first boiled the kettle again. Got a round metal former and a bottle of MEK ready. I put the twp pieces of p.card into a cup and immersed in boiling water for a minute to soften them. I then quickly dried the pieces on tissue, applied MEK to one for about 2 cms from one end, put the two pieces together and rolled and held them tightly around the former for about 5 minutes for the MEK to dry. I repeated this for the other ducket and then cut the curved end to length. The next stage was to measure and fold the lower part of the ducket inwards and then part the layers slightly to allow MEK to be brushed between and held in place to cure. This gave me the following when the lower end was also cut to length. A strip of p.card was cut 10mm wide and the ducket used as a template to draw the shape which was then cut with a knife. The window was cut as a rectangle with a knife and the ends rounded with a needle file. The ducket components now need cleaning and glueing before fitting.
I realise it would have been easier to carve solid duckets from wood but i want them to look realistic from the coach interior with a seat fitted inside as per the plan.
David.
Following on the thread of how i made the tumblehome using lamination of wood layers, i thought i would tackle the guards duckets next. I knew that it is possible to use steam or boiling water to soften plasticard. It could then be formed to the required shape, held till cold and it will then retain its new shape. My experience is that even though it was cold when the pressure was released it slowly straightened out again to almost its original shape - flat.
I next decided to try laminating using two pieces of 0.6mm plasticard cut to width but longer to allow for cutting to length when finished.
I first boiled the kettle again. Got a round metal former and a bottle of MEK ready. I put the twp pieces of p.card into a cup and immersed in boiling water for a minute to soften them. I then quickly dried the pieces on tissue, applied MEK to one for about 2 cms from one end, put the two pieces together and rolled and held them tightly around the former for about 5 minutes for the MEK to dry. I repeated this for the other ducket and then cut the curved end to length. The next stage was to measure and fold the lower part of the ducket inwards and then part the layers slightly to allow MEK to be brushed between and held in place to cure. This gave me the following when the lower end was also cut to length. A strip of p.card was cut 10mm wide and the ducket used as a template to draw the shape which was then cut with a knife. The window was cut as a rectangle with a knife and the ends rounded with a needle file. The ducket components now need cleaning and glueing before fitting.
I realise it would have been easier to carve solid duckets from wood but i want them to look realistic from the coach interior with a seat fitted inside as per the plan.
David.
David T.
- Peter Butler
- Driver
- Posts: 5219
- Joined: Sun Sep 09, 2012 10:33 pm
- Location: West Wales
Re: NWNG Railways No.1
Brilliant..... thanks for that, I will give it a try myself.
The best things in life are free.... so why am I doing this?
Re: NWNG Railways No.1
Hi all.
Glued duckets prior to cleaning.
I am pleased with the outcome. The laminated body of the ducket gives a good rigidity even though the plasticard was initially guite thin. With the body pieces set to shape it was fairly easy to use them as a template to mark, cut and sand the sides prior to gluing in position. David.
Glued duckets prior to cleaning.
I am pleased with the outcome. The laminated body of the ducket gives a good rigidity even though the plasticard was initially guite thin. With the body pieces set to shape it was fairly easy to use them as a template to mark, cut and sand the sides prior to gluing in position. David.
David T.
Re: NWNG Railways No.1
Hi all.
This is a landmark stage i like to get to. Four sides glued and floor in. Now to work on -
Internal fitting out.
External beading.
Underframe including wheels and couplings.
Removeable roof including lighting.
Sounds a lot of work but i will cut and fit the internal compartment partitions first to increase the rigidity of the structure. Enjoy your weekend all. I'm looking forward to a steamup in Buckinghamshire tomorrow with my Lady Ann and some of my other WHR/NWNG stock.
David.
This is a landmark stage i like to get to. Four sides glued and floor in. Now to work on -
Internal fitting out.
External beading.
Underframe including wheels and couplings.
Removeable roof including lighting.
Sounds a lot of work but i will cut and fit the internal compartment partitions first to increase the rigidity of the structure. Enjoy your weekend all. I'm looking forward to a steamup in Buckinghamshire tomorrow with my Lady Ann and some of my other WHR/NWNG stock.
David.
David T.
Re: NWNG Railways No.1
Just love that tumblehome!
Grant.
Grant.
Re: NWNG Railways No.1
I always thought that the majority of kit manufacturers had the right idea with their simple slab sides, easy to produce and easy to build. Now seeing your build l have completely revised my opinion.
Tumblehomes are a definite must.
Tumblehomes are a definite must.
Phil
Re: NWNG Railways No.1
Hi all.
I have cut the partitions to width but while thinking about the height i looked back at my paperwork to see that the coach had 3 roof oil lamps. It seems that the central 1st. Class compartment had a lamp of its own but the two compartments either side of this one shared a lamp between each pair. This must mean that the partitions between them must have been shorter than full height to allow for this.
Because of this i am now working on the roof so that when the lighting is in place i know how much below full height to make the partitions. The photo shows the frame i am making for the roof including a few of the extra spars that i will fit to add strength. I am making these large enough to allow for an 8mm space between the coach roof and the internal ceiling panelling to allow the lighting components to fit between.
I have cut the partitions to width but while thinking about the height i looked back at my paperwork to see that the coach had 3 roof oil lamps. It seems that the central 1st. Class compartment had a lamp of its own but the two compartments either side of this one shared a lamp between each pair. This must mean that the partitions between them must have been shorter than full height to allow for this.
Because of this i am now working on the roof so that when the lighting is in place i know how much below full height to make the partitions. The photo shows the frame i am making for the roof including a few of the extra spars that i will fit to add strength. I am making these large enough to allow for an 8mm space between the coach roof and the internal ceiling panelling to allow the lighting components to fit between.
David T.
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