NWNG Railways No.1
Re: NWNG Railways No.1
Looks very comfortable already, even without seats!
Grant.
Grant.
Re: NWNG Railways No.1
I had to look a few times to check it wasn't a real 1:1 shot - the other coach in the background does make it very realistic as well as the quality of the fit out.
Where did I put that uncoupler?
Re: NWNG Railways No.1
Have to agree with everyone else, that internal shot is as close as it gets.
Re: NWNG Railways No.1
Hi all. Latest update.
Partitions now cut to size, scribed boarding and stained with teak stain. The two centre partitions for the 1st class compartment are full height while the two outer ones that are positioned under the two outer lights are cut to allow the two compartments either side of the 1st class to each share a light. Now is time to make a start on the beading. I may do a few trial pieces because although i have put beading on some of my coaches before, never with curved corners (and almost every corner is an internal curve).
I'll keep you updated.
David.
Partitions now cut to size, scribed boarding and stained with teak stain. The two centre partitions for the 1st class compartment are full height while the two outer ones that are positioned under the two outer lights are cut to allow the two compartments either side of the 1st class to each share a light. Now is time to make a start on the beading. I may do a few trial pieces because although i have put beading on some of my coaches before, never with curved corners (and almost every corner is an internal curve).
I'll keep you updated.
David.
David T.
- Peter Butler
- Driver
- Posts: 5219
- Joined: Sun Sep 09, 2012 10:33 pm
- Location: West Wales
Re: NWNG Railways No.1
Nothing short of a masterclass in modelmaking and I'm enjoying every post on this build. Please excuse my ignorance on the detailing of the original you are re-creating, but I don't understand what 'internal corners' are which you are going to replicate.
The best things in life are free.... so why am I doing this?
Re: NWNG Railways No.1
Just read on a supporting page that the replica Ashbury brake will be NWNGR maroon and numbered 22.
Just in case you were interested
Just in case you were interested
Re: NWNG Railways No.1
Peter.
Maybe i am not explaining very well. In previous builds the beading has all been in straight lines with right angle corners. If you look at the photos i put on page 1 of this thread you can see that even though the beading is quite narrow every corner is a curve which will involve a lot of filing with a round file etc.
JMORG.
I was already thinking of maroon to match some of my other stock.
David
Maybe i am not explaining very well. In previous builds the beading has all been in straight lines with right angle corners. If you look at the photos i put on page 1 of this thread you can see that even though the beading is quite narrow every corner is a curve which will involve a lot of filing with a round file etc.
JMORG.
I was already thinking of maroon to match some of my other stock.
David
David T.
Re: NWNG Railways No.1
Can't wait to see the finished result! You using the 7mm association drawings?
Awesome your stock is definitely enviable! Might have to re-do my Gladstone to compliment the other carriages properly.
What maroon do you use?
Awesome your stock is definitely enviable! Might have to re-do my Gladstone to compliment the other carriages properly.
What maroon do you use?
- Peter Butler
- Driver
- Posts: 5219
- Joined: Sun Sep 09, 2012 10:33 pm
- Location: West Wales
Re: NWNG Railways No.1
David, thank you for the explanation of 'internal corners' and reference to the earlier pictures to illustrate what you mean. I hadn't thought it through sufficiently to appreciate where they were to be sited.... now I understand. Looking forward to your solution to this problem but have every confidence it will be more than satisfactory.
The best things in life are free.... so why am I doing this?
Re: NWNG Railways No.1
David just wondering, do you have any idea how the real beading with internal corners was done ie where the joins were. I'm trying to imagine a way of working the grain of the timber in the real case. It would have been fairly fragile until on the job. Be interested to see your approach, but rather you than me! I think your proven knife skills will come into play.
Grant.
Grant.
Re: NWNG Railways No.1
Hi all.
Not getting on so good this evening but i am sure i can work round it. The main problem is cutting rectangular holes with round corners in thin plastikard. I have tried punching a hole in each corner with a leather punch and with a hammer and punch and then cutting between these corner holes with a knife. The problem comes when i try to clean up the round hole with a small fine needle file. The p.card is too thin to allow the file to cut neatly and it vibrates a lot. The punch also stretches the p.card slightly downwards resulting in the piece not being perfectly flat.
So- I have now also tried using the thin ply i use for my coach building (0.8mm) and i seem to be getting on much better. The photo shows my trial results with the p.card and plywood before i stopped for the evening and made a coffee. Using the leather punch works better in the plywood and it is much easer to hold when filing the holes and gives a much neater hole. I will try cutting the straight lines tomorrow with a sharp knife but i think this will be the way to go. Hopefully more tomorrow. I might try drilling the holes with a fast running Dremel tool to achieve the neatest hole.
David
Not getting on so good this evening but i am sure i can work round it. The main problem is cutting rectangular holes with round corners in thin plastikard. I have tried punching a hole in each corner with a leather punch and with a hammer and punch and then cutting between these corner holes with a knife. The problem comes when i try to clean up the round hole with a small fine needle file. The p.card is too thin to allow the file to cut neatly and it vibrates a lot. The punch also stretches the p.card slightly downwards resulting in the piece not being perfectly flat.
So- I have now also tried using the thin ply i use for my coach building (0.8mm) and i seem to be getting on much better. The photo shows my trial results with the p.card and plywood before i stopped for the evening and made a coffee. Using the leather punch works better in the plywood and it is much easer to hold when filing the holes and gives a much neater hole. I will try cutting the straight lines tomorrow with a sharp knife but i think this will be the way to go. Hopefully more tomorrow. I might try drilling the holes with a fast running Dremel tool to achieve the neatest hole.
David
David T.
Re: NWNG Railways No.1
By the way thanks to you all for the kind words of encouragement as the project progresses. Although i don't acknowledge everyone it is much appreciated.
David
David
David T.
Re: NWNG Railways No.1
David, a suggestion but it's really off the wall. Have you tried chucking a wad punch in your drill stand setting it to a slow speed and keeping the plastic wet with water. I did use this once, but my material was probably thicker than you are using. It has to be a wad punch as they cut to the inside (leather punches cut to the outside, hence the stretch). Might be worth a try!
Grant.
Grant.
Re: NWNG Railways No.1
Hi all.
Quite pleased with my first two trial attempts using the leather punch and craft knife in thin plywood. Just a little cleaning up needed.
I am going to give it a go with a small piece of the proper beading. David.
Quite pleased with my first two trial attempts using the leather punch and craft knife in thin plywood. Just a little cleaning up needed.
I am going to give it a go with a small piece of the proper beading. David.
David T.
Re: NWNG Railways No.1
David PM sent.
Grant.
Grant.
Re: NWNG Railways No.1
Hi JMORG.
The maroon i have used is actually Plasti-kote Burgundy B42 which to me is a lovely rich dark maroon. I think a very good match for Roundhouse Victorian maroon.
The drawing i did myself from the pics on page 1 of this thread and basic measurements from Boyd.
David.
The maroon i have used is actually Plasti-kote Burgundy B42 which to me is a lovely rich dark maroon. I think a very good match for Roundhouse Victorian maroon.
The drawing i did myself from the pics on page 1 of this thread and basic measurements from Boyd.
David.
David T.
Re: NWNG Railways No.1
Hi all
It's not easy and its not quick but it's do-able.
I have done 11 cutouts out of a total of 80 and it is getting easier as i learn how to work the files and hold the wood.
For the window cutouts I am using the leather punch but only making a small hole, about 3mm, and not quite in the corner. I am then using a needle file to to enlarge the hole into the corner and then using the knife to cut the straight sides.
For the top slots i am using the punch again a couple of mm from each end and then using the small file to enlarge the hole to allow me to use a larger file to enlarge the hole to the end and top and bottom of the slot, then use the knife as before. The bottom slots are done in exactly the same way exapt that i need to use a third file to enlarge the hole to the required diameter. As luck would have it i already own round files whose diameter equals the widths of the slots i am cutting so allowing me to get an exact size of end curve.
Using a tip from Grant on this forum i am using the file like a drill in my hand, twisting it lightly to enlarge the hole slowly without forcing it. Progress so far.
I am getting better and neater. It will take a couple of weeks i think but i will persevere. I may redo the panel on the left later as some of the corners could be better. One thing i only noticed this afternoon is that the beading around the opening windows does not have curved corners at the bottom, only at the top for some reason.
David.
It's not easy and its not quick but it's do-able.
I have done 11 cutouts out of a total of 80 and it is getting easier as i learn how to work the files and hold the wood.
For the window cutouts I am using the leather punch but only making a small hole, about 3mm, and not quite in the corner. I am then using a needle file to to enlarge the hole into the corner and then using the knife to cut the straight sides.
For the top slots i am using the punch again a couple of mm from each end and then using the small file to enlarge the hole to allow me to use a larger file to enlarge the hole to the end and top and bottom of the slot, then use the knife as before. The bottom slots are done in exactly the same way exapt that i need to use a third file to enlarge the hole to the required diameter. As luck would have it i already own round files whose diameter equals the widths of the slots i am cutting so allowing me to get an exact size of end curve.
Using a tip from Grant on this forum i am using the file like a drill in my hand, twisting it lightly to enlarge the hole slowly without forcing it. Progress so far.
I am getting better and neater. It will take a couple of weeks i think but i will persevere. I may redo the panel on the left later as some of the corners could be better. One thing i only noticed this afternoon is that the beading around the opening windows does not have curved corners at the bottom, only at the top for some reason.
David.
David T.
- Peter Butler
- Driver
- Posts: 5219
- Joined: Sun Sep 09, 2012 10:33 pm
- Location: West Wales
Re: NWNG Railways No.1
I think you deserve a knighthood for services to garden railways for your determination to achieve perfection.
The best things in life are free.... so why am I doing this?
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 4 guests