Binnie Camarthen Couplings

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Howardws
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Binnie Camarthen Couplings

Post by Howardws » Sun Sep 20, 2015 6:52 pm

I've standardised on Binnie medium Camarthen Couplings, mainly because they are cheap! Peter Binnie tells me that 'The Camarthen couplings were intended to be used with a wire link rather than chain'. Has anyone out there a drawing for a successful wire link please?

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Post by Howardws » Wed Sep 30, 2015 4:31 pm

I've made a prototype. It works as an auto coupler. It's a bit heavy and slightly too long but it works! A cheap and cheerful coupling system for my cheap and cheerful rolling stock. Probably not much uglier that some proprietary couplings.


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Post by ge_rik » Wed Sep 30, 2015 11:38 pm

I experimented with them - but couldn't get them to work around reasonably tight curves. Have you solved that?

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Post by Howardws » Thu Oct 01, 2015 7:38 am

I ran the two wagons round my railway yesterday and propelled them through all the curves and points a number of times with no problem at all. My points are mainly Peco 38" radius. The end of the link is square and I noticed that when running through reverse curves the hook on the opposite wagon swung from one side of the link to the other. Perhaps the 'width' of the link is important? I'll go out and take a photo later.

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Post by Howardws » Thu Oct 01, 2015 8:40 am

I'll make some more, slightly shorter links and report back next week sometime.

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Post by ge_rik » Thu Oct 01, 2015 3:15 pm

Maybe I didn't make the loops long enough??

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Post by Howardws » Thu Oct 01, 2015 4:58 pm

Having looked at the second photo again I think I may have got the length nearly right, purely by guess. It looks as if the buffers are nearly touching and the link is nearly engaged with the hook. I'll make a link about 2mm shorter and see what happens.

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Post by Howardws » Tue Oct 06, 2015 6:55 pm

I made a number of different links today, using soft iron seizing wire because it's malleable and easy to shape. The photo shows the best one now made in stainless steel florist's wire. As far as I can see the free end needs to be square and fairly wide, there needs to be a bend to clear the buffer on the coupling fitted with the link and the link needs to be bent down 90 degrees (or more) at the free end. The link needs to have some weight so I think I'll carry on using thick wire. I shall make a former to shape the links round, otherwise they are all going to be different!
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