Live Diesel 1/12th scale
- dewintondave
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I don't want to have to remove the cooling hood when topping up the fuel so I've mounted an extension filler pipe on the right-hand side behind the buffer beam.
Some people ask if I have any drawings, well here's a circuit diagram I drew to work out the electrics. I didn't use the switch in the blower wiring in the end.
Some people ask if I have any drawings, well here's a circuit diagram I drew to work out the electrics. I didn't use the switch in the blower wiring in the end.
Last edited by dewintondave on Sun Feb 09, 2020 6:10 am, edited 1 time in total.
Best wishes,
Dave
Dave
- dewintondave
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Thank you guys.
I've just finalised the filler. The pipe needed holding place to resist the filler connection force.
I've just finalised the filler. The pipe needed holding place to resist the filler connection force.
Last edited by dewintondave on Sun Feb 09, 2020 6:12 am, edited 1 time in total.
Best wishes,
Dave
Dave
- dewintondave
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At last we had a break from the rain and I was able to test the cooling fans for the first time in use. The fans appear to be effective. After the run, (the tankful was consumed after 17 minutes) fans were left running for a while, and the cylinder head was just warm. The bonnet / hood rattled at times. From analysis after the run, I found that the motor was running 30% too fast, and the loco was doing about 6.5 scale MPH.
Last edited by dewintondave on Sun Feb 09, 2020 6:15 am, edited 1 time in total.
Best wishes,
Dave
Dave
- dewintondave
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A while ago I bought a small LED torch/Flashlight on eBay. I thought I'd use it for the headlight, but it was rather small. I've just finished converting it to use as the rear light for shunting and reverse running.
Here's what I bought:
I'm just using the LED, reflector, and bezel. This was a single AA cell torch. Interestingly there is a small PCBA that steps up the voltage to 3.7 V. I'm not going to use it as I'll be using the blowers 12 V supply with a step-down module.
This light is very bright, and a cold white. But it responds well to the PWM dimmer. The wiring still needs arranging.
Here's what I bought:
I'm just using the LED, reflector, and bezel. This was a single AA cell torch. Interestingly there is a small PCBA that steps up the voltage to 3.7 V. I'm not going to use it as I'll be using the blowers 12 V supply with a step-down module.
This light is very bright, and a cold white. But it responds well to the PWM dimmer. The wiring still needs arranging.
Last edited by dewintondave on Sun Feb 09, 2020 6:20 am, edited 1 time in total.
Best wishes,
Dave
Dave
- Dannypenguin
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Awesome build
Dan
Visit the PFLR website - http://poultonfarmlightrailway.webs.com/
Dean Forest Railway Society website - http://dfrsociety.org/
Visit the PFLR website - http://poultonfarmlightrailway.webs.com/
Dean Forest Railway Society website - http://dfrsociety.org/
- dewintondave
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Thanks mate.Dannypenguin:111545 wrote:Awesome build
---
Finally, I have started painting. I bought a benchtop convection oven, on special offer, to bake the paint after initial drying. The setting I'm using is 90 deg C for one hour. The paint is coming out nice and hard.
Because I'm not using an undercoat, the red is coming out quite a nice dark shade
Last edited by dewintondave on Sun Feb 09, 2020 6:22 am, edited 1 time in total.
Best wishes,
Dave
Dave
- dewintondave
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- dewintondave
- Trainee Driver
- Posts: 697
- Joined: Mon Mar 07, 2011 8:52 am
- Location: New Zealand
Thank you guys.
I've finished the bonnet and cab. The electrics are all reassembled. I'm putting all the various bits and pieces all over the place, I've got some shelves.
I like the brass / red contrast
I've just removed the footplate for painting, it's going to be black
I've finished the bonnet and cab. The electrics are all reassembled. I'm putting all the various bits and pieces all over the place, I've got some shelves.
I like the brass / red contrast
I've just removed the footplate for painting, it's going to be black
Last edited by dewintondave on Sun Feb 09, 2020 6:32 am, edited 1 time in total.
Best wishes,
Dave
Dave
- dewintondave
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I've started to dismantle the chassis one side frame at a time so as not to disturb everything too much. I'm only going to paint the outside of the frames. First thing is to fill all those excess holes that were used in the earlier set-ups. I've used small slices of 1/8" K&S brass bar to fill the holes and slots, soft soldering over them and smoothing it off.
Last edited by dewintondave on Sun Feb 09, 2020 6:35 am, edited 1 time in total.
Best wishes,
Dave
Dave
- dewintondave
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Here's the reassembled chassis on the surface plate for quartering of the cranks.
Last edited by dewintondave on Sun Feb 09, 2020 6:37 am, edited 1 time in total.
Best wishes,
Dave
Dave
- Dr. Bond of the DVLR
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- dewintondave
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- Joined: Mon Mar 07, 2011 8:52 am
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That's it, when it's touch dry. It's a smelly process, especially the black paint - toluene, the black paint was very fast to be touch dry. I used engine block spray paintKeith S:112246 wrote:How long after spraying do you bake the parts? Do you wait until they are dry to the touch at room temperature?
Last edited by dewintondave on Sun Feb 09, 2020 10:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Best wishes,
Dave
Dave
- dewintondave
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It is finished!
This project was started in the latter part of 2012. With the test chassis running in early 2013.
The basic dimensions of the loco are:
340 mm long (over the couplings) x 150 mm wide x 240 mm high from railhead to top of the exhaust stack. Weight: over 5 Kg
This project was started in the latter part of 2012. With the test chassis running in early 2013.
The basic dimensions of the loco are:
340 mm long (over the couplings) x 150 mm wide x 240 mm high from railhead to top of the exhaust stack. Weight: over 5 Kg
Last edited by dewintondave on Sun Feb 09, 2020 10:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Best wishes,
Dave
Dave
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