"Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild

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Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild

Post by Old Man Aaron » Wed Oct 20, 2021 7:15 am

Thanks, Grant. This being a freelance industrial loco, I figure I could get away with any old injectors. But looking at the Bundy Foundry book now, shows they were all fitted with Auto Positives similar (possibly identical) to those on the NAs. Quoting the book: "Only specialised items such as gauges, lubricators, electrical fittings, injectors, safety valves and roller bearings were bought in".

I did briefly consider fabricating injectors as you have, (beautiful work by the way, you too, Keith) but dismissed it as I couldn't think of a way to hold the parts together for soldering. But nails in a block of wood, I didn't think of that. :roll: Will have a go.. Failing that, I'll try DJB, GRS and Roundhouse. Cheers, fellas, it's hard to remember all the suppliers we have in 16mm.

I'm surprised to see Airdmillan had a feedwater pump as-built. Not aware of any other cane loco ever having been fitted with one. Although it now (like our Bundy 5) carries a pair of Auto Positives, I suspect it may have been built with backhead-mounted "cross-head" injectors, as the earlier Innisfail B9½s seemed to have. Though looking at the same photo, Graeme, I think you're right about it being in the cab and draining through the footplate.
Looking at Airdmillan's reverser today, it's your typical Fowler assembly.

Re: drill bits, the funny thing is they were the same bits, in the same pin-vice, in the same drill press as last time - all being el-cheapo. Incidentally, I've also once had the spiral reverse. Looking back, I'd think the pin vice just happened to be positioned more "truly" this time. Planning on finding a quality drill press when I build the new workshop, maybe even one with a miniature chuck for bits under 1.5mm.

The mechanical lubricator linkage is surprisingly robust. Outside the QLD Govt. mainline, which mostly stayed with hydrostatic lubricators to the end, many of our narrow gauge locos over time, had their hydrostatics replaced with mechanical lubricators. Nearly all the locos at Woodford have 'em. Thanks for the offer Graeme, but the photos here will be enough for me.

Thanks for the helpful input, gents. It's appreciated.

19/10/21
The rain slowed things up a bit, but the chassis is now mostly done. The motion was left assembled like last time on "Victoria", and painted in one piece, masking off to spray the cylinders. Blue-tac was used to mask around the ends of the gland nuts. Again as last time, the clip-on cylinder covers needed a few spots of shockproof (hi-temp) superglue to keep them tightly in place.
I'd like to have detailed the pony wheel frame, but due to the way the prototype is made, the way the model is made, and the lack of space behind the frame when set for 45mm gauge, I can't really do much. I may yet drill it and put a couple of sewing pins in the frame, but it's almost not worth it. I'll see how it looks once the cab and steps are fitted..
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IP Eng. appears to now use a 3D-printed master for their Darj. couplings. I was impressed with the quality of the castings, but the 3D-printed master really needs to be cleaned up. Why leave print lines on every surface and a deeply sunken (heat-deformed) corner for everyone to fix? Though if it's just a temporary stop-gap for a batch or two, fair enough.. I used JB Weld to build up the missing corner, and fitted with a pair of M3 bolts.

The surface of the headstocks isn't perfectly flawless, but quite good enough for me. The round "knub" in the center of each cylinder head is an M2 cheesehead screw, the slot filled in with soft solder and cleaned up on the lathe. Some Permatex hi-temp thread sealant was applied before gently tightening home with pliers. The protruding thread on the inside was cut away with the dremel. No oil was used in the cylinders' assembly.
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Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild

Post by Old Man Aaron » Fri Nov 26, 2021 7:24 am

Wanting to get the cab and footplate refitted, I turned to rebuilding the rear headlight and the headache of working out how to power it, whilst still allowing the roof to hinge.

20/11/21
The headlight shell was carefully opened out on the lathe, to see if I could fit a separate aluminium reflector inside. Thankfully I didn't machine through the back of the shell and have to make a one-piece replacement headlight. A drawing with dimensions was made, of both completed parts, for when I do the front headlight. I can put a photo of the drawing in the thread if anyone would find it useful?
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26/11/21
Darrell's fine work on his Eric build, was the push I needed to do better than my past shameful practice of gluing wires into cabs. This conduit isn't perfect, but close enough for a first go using tube bending coils. Wet rags were needed to protect the styrene overlays when soldering the conduit into place.
For connectors, wire was soldered to 1mm x 5mm magnets - themselves attached to a stack of larger, more powerful magnets, to reduce the de-magnetising effect of the soldering iron's heat. A second, undamaged small magnet was them glued to the soldered one with JB Weld. The wire was then fed down the tube, and the magnets JB Welded into a styrene box, to keep them electrically isolated from the cab structure.

I found the the roof support strut was a pain in the backside to use, so now was the time to fix that. It was shortened, and one of the larger magnets was glued into the front RH corner of the cab. This allows the hook to be swung into/out of place with a single movement and is now far quicker and easier to use.

Mating faces of the headlight bracket were cleaned to bare metal before assembly, and the positive wire soldered to the bracket. Another conduit/magnet connector was made for the negative wire.
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Bench tested successfully, and I think this cab is ready for priming..
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Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild

Post by philipy » Fri Nov 26, 2021 10:33 am

Very nice neat wiring solution. I must admit I usually glue them into corners where they are least noticeable!
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Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild

Post by Old Man Aaron » Tue Dec 28, 2021 12:50 pm

Cheers Phil! It's not wrong if it works for you! 8)

Back to the Bundy - expecting delivery of my first car in about a fortnight, (which needs work and will likely take some priority :scratch:) so in the meantime I'd like to advance this project as far as possible.

13/12/21
That's the chimney done after starting it 18 months ago, with the bottom ring drilled and fitted with the usual dummy rivets.
There's some witness dimples in the casting, where handrail knobs/pipework are to be drilled for on other models, Eg: Katie.
Went to clean those spots with alcohol so they could be filled with JB Weld, but whatever tough stuff Roundhouse uses on their smokeboxes certainly doesn't stand up to alcohol. Not wanting to take chances with re-hardened paint on a part that gets hot and oily, the smokebox was stripped to bare and awaits filling..
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28/12/21
Injectors were made over two days, and I'm surprised to say they came out very well. The parts were a bit fiddly to prod into place, but sewing pins came in handy once again, holding the parts against the plank. A quick blast with the mapp torch kept the pieces hot for a good few seconds, affording enough time to touch the soft solder where needed. A couple of pins got caught in the solder, but were easily removed.

Thanks for the advice and encouragement, probably wouldn't have been game to try that, otherwise.
They're screwed under the footplate via the brass strip; the footplate itself now looking like Swiss cheese with all its respective new and redundant holes.. :roll:

JB Weld was used to tidy up the soldered joints around the front corners of the side tanks; Also had their inner sides extended downward, so there's no visible gap down beside the boiler.
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The water feed pipes obstruct the ashpan slightly, I probably should've pre-bent the water lines for a tighter bend before soldering. Prototypes all appear to have used elbow fittings directly off the injector water inlet for this reason. Good enough. :dontknow:
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Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild

Post by Old Man Aaron » Wed Jan 05, 2022 9:48 am

29/12/21
I noticed with the new bearings (which are thinner than the original bronze ones) the axles have far more side-play than they should. The coupling rods were touching the deepened tank support gussets. So six spacers were machined from brass, to slip in between bearing and crank. We'll see how they perform with minimal oiling..
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Scum Class Works' drawings aren't quite to the standard of say, Llewellyn Loco Works, but they fit nicely on the new shelf behind the lathe, so it's nice being able to see at a glance whilst machining.
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01/01/22
The boiler assembly, smokebox and domes were temporarily refitted to allow the headlight wire conduit and dummy blower line to be made and positioned with a piece of masking tape. Starting with the rear-most boiler band, they were soft-soldered into place, using a wet (clean) rag to protect everything else from the mapp torch. Photo was taken before pickling the assembly in citric acid.

I don't normally bother with anything more than rinsing the citric away with water, but this being a boiler, and with the cladding and bands attached, it was neutralised in a baking soda solution for an hour after pickling.
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04/01/22
Using a different shade of green this time round, as the nicer-coloured stuff I used to use seems to be contaminated when it's put into the can - Resulting in fish-eyes in everything no matter what you painted or how it was prepped. After the first coat had dried, I wasn't sure if I wanted to proceed with the new stuff; it's a bit cold in tone. So the parts were set on the chassis along with the smokebox to make a decision. I think once it's fully detailed and weathered, I can live with it on this and future locos.

The cab, tanks, footplate and cab steps were black etch-primed like everything else, but this time I'm trying something different for weathering - the parts received a coat of red oxide primer before their topcoats. The idea being to carefully sand away the topcoat in wear-spots, showing primer underneath. They'll still need the usual weathering methods besides, but I think it'll add another layer of realism.
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Hoping to have the loco mostly re-assembled by this time next week..
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Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild

Post by Old Man Aaron » Sat Mar 12, 2022 2:38 pm

Not much progress for 3 months, and a well-overdue update - I've allowed life to get in the way of important things for far too long..

24/01/22
The whistle represents a standard Queensland Govt. Railways fitting - perhaps pilfered by a former QGR crewman upon leaving for the canefields, or simply found lying around at Bundaberg Foundry, whom were contracted to overhaul locos for QGR. Turned with mainly the parting tool and files, then polished before parting off.
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The hole in the dome's top needed to be enlarged, then bored a little further. A plug was then made to fit, with 2mm holes for the dummy whistle and safety valves, along with several 0.9mm holes for steam to issue from the actual safety valve hidden within.
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Generator was detailed in the usual way. The dummy safeties are just generic-looking things that resemble most canefield prototypes. The original whistle mount on the cab front was left alone as the prototypes usually were, when their whistles were re-located to the dome.
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02/03/22
Two of the screws holding the cab and footplate together are in the bunker floor, so the coal load must be removable. Inside the bunker was painted with black enamel. A coal load was made from foam rubber packaging, carved to shape with a hot knife (well-ventilated) and painted with black acrylic. Once dry, a piece of cling wrap was folded under the foam, before fitting in the bunker, brushing on some PVA and gluing crushed coal over it.
Rather happy with it, though it needs more than the one magnet I embedded in the load, to allow it to lift out of it's snugly-fitting bunker.
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The rear reflector and glass watch lens were fitted after I stopped procrastinating and made/fitted the front reflector.
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13/03/22
I was about to paint the front headlight assembly when I realised I still needed a dummy mechanical lubricator, and felt it best to wait till that was ready for paint - which as you can see, I didn't bother with. The pipework was deliberately roughly-bent, to represent that battered state of real oil lines.
I've already made the "crank" from copper wire, and have yet to make the linkage to the valve spindle fork. Would've preferred steel wire for the linkages, but have only music wire on hand, which is far too brittle and difficult to work, even when annealed. We'll see how poorly the copper fares..
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Inside the cab was painted with cream enamel, the fittings stripped of their lacquer in acetone then blackened, and the footplate carefully sanded to reveal the red primer under the black paint. Still needs a little cleanup, and an enamel "sootty" wash will tie it all together.
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Wiring is underway, though not my strong suit. Batteries were a fiasco but now sorted and assembled in a removable pack. Many joints between body and frame parts were opened up, cleaned and given a bit of dielectric grease on a cotton bud, to hopefully maintain good grounding for the lights..
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Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild

Post by Lonsdaler » Sat Mar 12, 2022 11:11 pm

I really like the look of this Aaron, you are adding your own mark to make this something special. You certainly have an eye for detail.
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Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild

Post by LNR » Sun Mar 13, 2022 4:43 am

Great detailing Aaron, particularly like the depression in the centre of the coal load, as opposed to the full to the brim look.
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Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild

Post by Lonsdaler » Mon Mar 14, 2022 10:01 am

LNR wrote: Sun Mar 13, 2022 4:43 am Great detailing Aaron, particularly like the depression in the centre of the coal load, as opposed to the full to the brim look.
Grant.
Yes, that was one of the details that particularly impressed me. It will make the loco appear to be active, unlike most coal loads which suggest the bunker has just been filled. :thumbup:
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Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild

Post by Andrew » Mon Mar 14, 2022 4:01 pm

Lonsdaler wrote: Mon Mar 14, 2022 10:01 am that was one of the details that particularly impressed me.
And me! A lovely touch...

The whole loco's looking fantastic...

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Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild

Post by Old Man Aaron » Wed Mar 16, 2022 4:04 am

Thanks again gents, I'm very pleased with how it's turning out. The loco's "to-do" list is now very short.. Not sure what to do next after this project's done, too many to choose from.. :scratch:
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Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild

Post by Old Man Aaron » Thu Apr 21, 2022 3:47 pm

31/03/22

Progress on "Calloway" has been sporadic, partly owing to the sheer amount of work needing done to my new car to get it roadworthy - such as the tail lights being rebuilt. Knew what I was getting into, but I digress.

"Calloway's" beading and rails were picked out with signwriting enamel as it covers better.
Inside the cab, along with the footplate and fittings, was given the "wash-and-wipe" weathering method, using a sooty wash of Tamiya enamels, while everything is still accessible. After a fortnight to be sure the red was dry, (okay I was busy and forgot) the cab and tanks were given a basecoat "sheen killer" of satin clear, prior to refitting.
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18/04/22
Ashpan painted, dummy doors fitted, and filled with crushed clinker from a 5" loco. Wiring finished, the positive ground system seems to work well, with all the grounds and plugs cleaned and greased. We'll see how it fares. I usually get problems with the lighting on live steamers after only a few runs, so I'm hoping that by grounding the circuit through the loco, and thus cutting the wiring runs in half, I might get some actual long-term reliability out of it. In case it's the 3V grain-of-wheat bulbs to blame, I've not glued them into the headlights this time. Wondering if it might be heat affecting the bulbs, I've never had this issue with any of the same bulbs in my battery locos..
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20/04/22
As expected, I had to replace the steel cab strut with brass; the steel one would constantly stick to the magnet connector for the rear headlight and short out. A steel nut was soldered to the end of the strut to hold it in place when the roof is lowered.
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21/04/22
After nearly a year, "Calloway" is finally back in one piece, awaiting touch-up. Weathering and a few bits of "loco junk" to follow soon..
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Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild

Post by philipy » Thu Apr 21, 2022 4:52 pm

Difficult to make out in the gloom, but it looks lovely from what I can see. :D
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Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild

Post by GTB » Fri Apr 22, 2022 1:12 pm

The silhouette certainly looks like a Bundy Fowler and the added details tend to disguise it's Roundhouse origins.

One looks forward to seeing it in full sunlight with a rake of cane trucks behind it. You must be due for some sunshine up there soon, unless Hughie has decided to extend the Wet........

On a different subject, I haven't seen tail light assemblies like that for years, what sort of horseless carriage are you rebuilding?

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Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild

Post by Old Man Aaron » Sun May 15, 2022 5:11 pm

philipy wrote: Thu Apr 21, 2022 4:52 pm Difficult to make out in the gloom
Just teasing. ;) Here's the other side that day, pre-touchup.
Image

GTB wrote: Fri Apr 22, 2022 1:12 pm what sort of horseless carriage are you rebuilding?
The sort that needs a new engine. Damn shame, it was recently rebuilt before the previous owner bought it, did zero research and didn't know what upkeep was needed, thus unaware of the difference in the noise it made running. It's uhh, unusual, so it's a secret until I get to see people's faces when I turn up in it. ;) :lol:
There's not one bolt on that kind of car that doesn't need attention to make it safe and truly reliable, so I've little progress to report on "Calloway".

Rain's come and gone too many times to count this year. Really need it to stay away so I can finish repainting a 1:1 scale Malcolm Moore that lives outside..

01/05/22
So when I did "Victoria", the plan was to work out a standard sequence for weathering live steamers, and to write down the methods used.
I could then repeat those methods here on "Calloway", describing in depth, to help others feel more confident in weathering their own live steam locos.

Once paintwork was touched up, I mixed a thick wash of very dark grey, using black and white Tamiya enamels, along with a tiny tinge of brown. Use turps for thinners, (it evaporates more slowly than white spirit) and a lower ambient temperature is vital to allow long enough working times - 24C or lower seems to work for me.

Work quickly and apply to moderate-sized sections (no more than 4 square inches) using a 1/4" brush. Cover the area, and start wiping away the wash with paper towels; you'll quickly find the ideal wiping motion for the area you're working on. Apply this to the entire model, including valve gear. A swirling pattern followed by a downward streaking seems to give a realistic appearance. Once dry, just remember to gently scrub away any leftover paper fibres before clearcoating. You could also use a soft cloth instead of paper towels, but as I found, it's likely to leave a hell of a lot of lint stuck in the finish once dry, and it's a bear to scrub away with a dry toothbrush.

If you don't like how it looks, you can always add a little more straight away, or immediately wipe it off with white spirit or turps, and try again. It's all really easier than it sounds. If you want, you could just stop here, and the loco would still look great. I like to take things further though.
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15/05/22
I've been having problems with "Victoria"s lubricator drain leaking under steam. As I've relocated it, so it's not obstructing the cab doorway, the drain plug is inaccessible, and I have to use a syringe to drain the water. It was a brand new seal, nipping up was no use, and oily engines are a pet hate of mine. So I removed and cleaned the lubricator and plug, plugged the plug itself with soft solder, then screwed it back into the lubricator, replacing the o-ring with some thread sealant. I've pre-emptively done the same with "Calloway".
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A last-minute headlight upgrade is an option. Never said it was a good one, but. :lol:
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Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild

Post by LNR » Mon May 16, 2022 12:09 am

I was hoping you would be waving the weathering stick over "Calloway", looking forward to the finished results.
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Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild

Post by Old Man Aaron » Mon Jul 11, 2022 3:28 pm

Apologies if this reads a bit funny, I really should've gone to bed already but don't want to leave this post half-written overnight.. :roll:
I can always proof-read and fix it tomorrow..

Between procrastination, work on the car, the weather and being sent the wrong paint, completion of the loco is well overdue.


On the first loco I ever weathered, "Baron", I used Humbrol flat clear as a final clearcoat, with excellent results that held up well under steam - Unfortunately I binned the stuff along with the rest of my Humbrol, when I had frosting issues using the same tin on another project. That's when I switched to Tamiya's enamels. Impossible to know weather it was user error or quality issues, there.

The next and now most previous loco I weathered, "Victoria", received a final clearcoat of Tamiya gloss clear. (flattened with flat base)
This turned to a satin sheen on the hottest areas of the loco, upon first firing. Yes, I gave it weeks to cure beforehand, and sprayed it in a dehumidified room. No clue why it did that, but it really spoilt the appearance for me.

22/05/22
Hoping to avoid repeating that problem on "Calloway", I thought I'd give one last "now or never" go with Humbrol's flat clear. Again in a dehumidified room, and yes, the tins are the new UK-production stuff.
So out from the workshop queue came the weathering test-dummy Stainz. Trying enamel thinners, white spirit, and mineral turpentine, no matter how well mixed the paint was before and after thinning, regardless of air pressure and technique;
They all came out exactly as expected. Frosty all over and collecting in corners and edges. Totally unacceptable, I'm never touching Humbrol again.
Image


So out with the Tamiya clear and flat base. I don't remember the ratios of paint/flattener/white spirit, I just play with the mixture by testing it on the Stainz until I'm happy with how it looks after half an hour's drying.
"Calloway" was given a single all-round coat to seal in the previously-applied grime wash. I also cleaned "Victoria" and gave it another flat coat in hopes it might fix the satin issue.
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23/05/22
This black-brown-white pastel weathering set from Tamiya is perfect for steam locos. The little sponge tip works much like a paintbrush - wiping and stippling to get the appearance you want. I go quite heavy with these, as subsequent clearcoats to seal it in will greatly diminish it's visibility. The joints in the motion have also had a second hit of the wash-and-wipe grime treatment.
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15/05/22
The motion joints have all been very lightly lubricated, and oil wicked into the cylinders/valves via the spindles, so the new piston o-rings don't get moved around dry.. This way I can turn the wheels over to get at everything for weathering. The graphite yarn provided in the cylinder service kit was fitted to the piston rods, and the nuts nipped up.

As I had run out of flat clear, the pastels were then sealed in with an extremely thinned-down earthy brown for a slightly dusty windswept appearance. The effect is extremely subtle, but I think is appropriate for agricultural locomotives.
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I've applied the white pastel with the sponge tip over most of the edges and details to highlight them. In addition to the black and brown where appropriate.
Again done in an exaggerated manner, as the final clearcoat will obscure it a bit. I can always apply more pastels over the top and clearcoat again.
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It's nearly there. Just some wear to be done on the buffer faces, splattered grime on the headstocks from the railheads, some soot airbrushed over the top, and maybe some grime airbrushed over the running gear. Then final clearcoat - hopefully I won't have to reapply the white pastels to the edges and clearcoat again, but we'll see..
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I'm nearly finished building a new carry cradle for the loco, will get a photo of that maybe tomorrow..

Regards,
Aaron
Last edited by Old Man Aaron on Tue Jul 12, 2022 6:56 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild

Post by Peter Butler » Mon Jul 11, 2022 6:15 pm

Beautiful work Aaron, lovely effect achieved.
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Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild

Post by Tropic Blunder » Tue Jul 12, 2022 7:00 am

Absolutely stunning Aaron best looking roundhouse fowler I've seen yet. Shame they weren't super popular really i think that with a bit of extra detail they come up a treat.
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Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild

Post by philipy » Tue Jul 12, 2022 8:12 am

Lovely job, Aaron.
I'm not generally abig fan of 'colonial looking ' locos with bits stuck on and spark arrestor chimneys, etc, but this just looks superb in every way.
Philip

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