"Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild

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Old Man Aaron
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"Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild

Post by Old Man Aaron » Fri Jun 11, 2021 8:14 am

Back when Roundhouse announced their Bundaberg Fowler in 2016, I put my name down for one. Not long after, I lost my job and had to withdraw my place in the batch. By mid 2020, I had some money left-over from my caravan rebuild, and a chance look at Anything Narrow Gauge's website, revealed a reasonably-priced R/C Bundy for sale. Initially, I put it out of my mind, but I also knew that wouldn't last long.. Several weeks later, a very large and well-packed box landed on my doorstep.

Besides some black paint crudely brushed onto the wheels and cylinder ends, and Accucraft choppers fitted, the loco was effectively brand new.
Those who know me here, will know this loco won't stay standard for long. Quality-of-life operating mods, detailing and weathering, will be along the lines of that done to my Innisfail Fowler "Victoria".
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10/06/2020
Although the as-yet unnamed loco was well down the workshop queue, I couldn't resist doing something now. Being no fan of Millaquin Sugar Mill's signature spark arrestor, Different sizes of diamond chimneys were drawn 1:1 scale on paper, and tested against the loco to determine the dimensions, to which I'll be hacking down some 2" aluminium bar. The R/C gear was removed, and swapped for manual equivalent parts from a mate, whom was converting one of his locos to R/C.
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22/06/20
After much head-scratching and a few machining sessions, the bottom half of the chimney was about done. At the time of writing this a year later, I've yet to finish the chimney..
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07/05/2021
With this loco's turn in the queue finally come 'round, I started by re-shuffling the controls for ease of use. The pipework was annealed, carefully using a wet rag to prevent any solder joints from melting. This allowed the lubricator to be raised, so that it no longer protruded under the footplate where the ashpan cutout will be. I'll drain it with a syringe, as I do on "Victoria".

The gas pipework was reworked so that the valve is accessible through the driver's-side doorway, as advertised. When I got the loco, the valve was an inch inboard of the doorway and pointing straight backwards, requiring removal of the roof for every gas adjustment. That simply wasn't practical.
Speaking of driver's side, another of "Victoria's" mods was repeated, moving the reverser over to the correct side as-per the prototype. The reversing linkage will be modified to suit.
Image


I've been focusing on a laborious batch rollingstock project lately, but really need to get back onto the Bundy, soon. I'd like to have both (and more) completed by year's end, and half the year's already gone! I've since stripped the cab's paint, and taken delivery of suitable name and worksplates..
Last edited by Old Man Aaron on Fri Nov 26, 2021 5:58 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild

Post by Old Man Aaron » Sun Jul 18, 2021 9:19 am

15/07/21
Finally back to the Bundy project.
Just a couple of tasks left in re-shuffling the controls. A blank spacer was machined to replace the pressure gauge feed from the steam turret.
I find pressure gauges of this size (this one included) to be far too unreliable, and in my experience, I simply don't need it on an internally gas-fired loco. Just my own opinion, they clearly work just fine for many people.

The Left-hand weighshaft crank needed to be reversed, to mate up with the now right-hand-mounted reversing lever.
In order to do this, it has to be un-soldered from it's brass boss, the residual solder ground away, the crank arms bent in the opposite direction, then cleaned up and silver-soldered back onto the boss. As happened last time, on "Victoria", I managed to over-heat the parts when melting the original solder, and damaged the brass boss; so a replacement was machined, and the parts soldered together without further issue.

As the loco was originally R/C, the reversing servo was mounted in the side tank. This left the reversing rod too short to reach the footplate.
I don't have any bike spokes with the correct thread for the Roundhouse clevis, so had to make do with the original rod, and lengthen it to reach the reversing lever on the footplate. It works fine, and hidden in the side-tank, it doesn't matter that it looks a dog's breakfast.
Writing this now, I realise I could just include a full-length replacement rod in the next spares order from Roundhouse..
Image

17/07/21
I've found a fully-removable cab roof, is simply begging for ongoing work, in touching up chipped paint along it's edges. Instead, this roof will hinge from the LH side. So away with the tab on this side of the cab, along with all four locking tabs underneath the roof itself.
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The cab's entire rear wall is one nicely-formed piece of brass. But the rivet counter in me doesn't like it; it's not prototypical. So using a wet rag to avoid disturbing the handrails, the rear wall was removed.

The plated-over top of the bunker was cut out. As I won't be using the bunker to hold batteries, its front wall (bulkhead?) will be rebuilt to something more like the prototype. Having ready access to not only one of the eight full-size Bundaberg Fowlers, but also the 1935 Leeds Fowler, "Airdmillan" (of which the Bundies are locally-built copies) is extremely useful for this.
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Last edited by Old Man Aaron on Fri Nov 26, 2021 7:31 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Bettering a Bundy Fowler

Post by philipy » Sun Jul 18, 2021 9:45 am

Very impressive Aaron, and nicely written up and illustrated as well. Thank you. Looking forward to future installments.
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Re: Bettering a Bundy Fowler

Post by Old Man Aaron » Sun Jul 18, 2021 10:12 am

Presumably for ease of manufacture, and as part of the bunker changes to house batteries for the R/C fitted model, the cab's rear archway was fitted way too far back on the standard RH model. I've re-located it to the correct position, but this leaves the mounting flange protruding into the cab side cutout, (out of focus at left) which was cut back with the dremel. (center)

One thing I do like about Accucraft locos, is the way their cab rooves hinge; so I'll be replicating this. A pair of brass mounting bushes were turned and silver-soldered to the cab front and rear arch. This was done before re-fitting the arch, being soft-soldered. The bunker rear was then soft-soldered back in place, again using wet rags to protect other joints from the heat.
Image

The top and bottom layers of the tropical cab roof were epoxied together, but not too well. Besides excess epoxy having oozed out at the sides, there was a 1mm gap between the contact points in places, and weathering (when I get to that stage) will only highlight all that. So the butane torch was gently played over the roof until the epoxy softened just enough to be (again gently) pried apart. The epoxy was easily chipped away with a scraper, and the contact points cleaned to bare metal. Checking the fit without that epoxy everywhere, showed they do indeed fit together very nicely, and are really well-made parts. I'll clamp them together when I get to JB Welding them..
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18/07/21
The remainder of the Accucraft-style roof hinge was made up, and JB Welded to underneath the cab roof. I'd have soldered it, but that would've disturbed the soldered joints holding the spacers to this bottom layer of the roof. Once it cures, I'll drill and tap through the hinge for six M2 screws, and loctite nuts onto the other side.
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Re: Bettering a Bundy Fowler

Post by Old Man Aaron » Sun Jul 18, 2021 10:16 am

philipy wrote: Sun Jul 18, 2021 9:45 am Very impressive Aaron, and nicely written up and illustrated as well. Thank you. Looking forward to future installments.
Cheers, Phil. It's nice to hear fellow modellers get something out of it.
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Re: Bettering a Bundy Fowler

Post by Andrew » Sun Jul 18, 2021 10:45 am

Old Man Aaron wrote: Sun Jul 18, 2021 10:16 am It's nice to hear fellow modellers get something out of it.
Definitely! Even if I can't get my head round some of the technical stuff...

It strikes me that you are a true all-rounder, an engineer and an artist - a great combination for garden railway-ing, so thank you for sharing!

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Re: Bettering a Bundy Fowler

Post by GAP » Mon Jul 19, 2021 2:52 am

Looking good there Aaron

Remember that no Bundaberg Fowler is complete without the obligatory lizard sleeping on the buffer beam like this one on BFC No1. ;) ;)
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Re: Bettering a Bundy Fowler

Post by Lonsdaler » Mon Jul 19, 2021 12:48 pm

Andrew wrote: Sun Jul 18, 2021 10:45 am
Old Man Aaron wrote: Sun Jul 18, 2021 10:16 am It's nice to hear fellow modellers get something out of it.
Definitely! Even if I can't get my head round some of the technical stuff...

It strikes me that you are a true all-rounder, an engineer and an artist - a great combination for garden railway-ing, so thank you for sharing!

Andrew
Yes - this ^^^
You really are producing some brilliant stuff Aaron - congratulations to all at Scum Class Works :)
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Re: Bettering a Bundy Fowler

Post by Old Man Aaron » Fri Jul 23, 2021 5:11 pm

GAP wrote: Mon Jul 19, 2021 2:52 am no Bundaberg Fowler is complete without the obligatory lizard sleeping on the buffer beam like this one on BFC No1. ;) ;)
Best I can do is a cat. :mrgreen:

Thought I'd see how the plates might look, though fitting them is months away. I'm not the best at coming up with names, so I settled on making this one a subtle reference, a sort of "inside joke with myself". If you enjoy riddles, here's a hint: The plates' location on the loco.

As for this being Works No.10, when only 8 Bundaberg Fowlers were built in reality; Someone's already done a fictional Bundy No.9 - hell, I think I've seen two different examples of "Nines" by different modellers. I figure if that number's taken, that makes mine No.10.
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After mechanically-reinforcing the roof hinge, a hook was made up to limit the roof's travel, preventing it from chipping it's own, or the cab side's paint. Also stops it leaning against the now-weakened left cab wall. I shouldn't have cut away the tab on that side. :roll: No huge issue, it's rigid enough.
A magnet JB Welded above the RH doorway, keeps the hook tucked away when the roof is down.
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Oh, right! And the front "bulkhead" of the bunker is now in place. Was able to modify and re-use the original one, but unfortunately had to JB Weld it in place, due to such close proximity of all the other soft-soldered cab joints. Had I thought of this before doing the earlier soft-soldering work, I'd have tinned all the brass around the bunker area, to allow low-temperature solder to be used to fit the bulkhead. JB should work fine though, I'd just prefer solder.

23/07/21
Speaking of dodgy, I decided on a whim, to finish the chimney that's been rattling around the drawer under my lathe for the past year.
Note the extra hole in the front headstock, from the previous owner's replacement couplings. Yay, extra work! :roll:
Normally when I find dodgy work on a cane loco, it's a full-size machine.
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Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild

Post by GAP » Fri Jul 23, 2021 11:02 pm

Looking good Aaron :thumbleft: :thumbright:
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Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild

Post by Old Man Aaron » Thu Aug 19, 2021 2:52 pm

The cab was finished a couple of weeks back. The prototype Bundies' cabs had beading of ⅜" thick flat bar, welded on.
Probably a controversial choice, but to model this beading, I opted for 1mm styrene, rather than ruining the cab by trying to do it in brass..
A rectangle was cut to accurately cover the edges of the etched beading lines, around the doorway; then fitted with JB Weld. Once cured, the excess material was carefully cut, filed and sanded away, leaving a raised "bead" around the doorway.
The bunker beading was much simpler to do, as were the 0.5mm styrene joint-plates above it. The joint plates were to allow the top half of the cabs to be removed for transport to the locomotives' new owners, by way of Queensland's 3'6" mainline.
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19/08/21
The loco was dismantled and individual components degreased to remove any remaining oil trapped between assembled parts.
The motion has been removed from the axles, but is otherwise assembled. I'm repeating the technique used in "Victoria"s
rebuild, in order to preserve the valve timing of this, my smoothest-running loco.
The fasteners are still being stripped in a jar of thinners being agitated by the ultrasonic cleaner. Many smaller parts await stripping.
The frames have been stripped, their plain bearings removed, and will be drilled out to accept flanged ball bearings and extra detailing, in due course..
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In order to properly clean the cylinder assemblies, the valve chests (and therefore the valves) had to be removed. This would upset the valve timing. So in order to put the valves back correctly when I'm done, the covers were removed, the internals of the valve chests degreased and scrubbed with meths, then once dry, a dab of acrylic paint was applied where the spindle screws into the valve. After that dried, the valve could be unscrewed from the spindle, and the spindle withdrawn from the chest. Before removal, the top of the left and right valves were marked "LH" and "RH" with a scribe, just in case of any tiny difference between the two. That also shows me which way to orient the valves during re-assembly.
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With that done, the spindles were removed and kept with their respective sides' motion, to help keep them from getting mixed up.
The reason I've removed the valves and spindles, is that the motion sets will soon go in the ultrasonic cleaner, which would remove the acrylic paint and leave me without means of putting the timing back correctly.
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For once, I'm grateful do deal with someone else's poor work. Because this black paint was brushed straight on without primer, (and almost certainly without cleaning) the thinners and wire brush took it straight off. The Roundhouse paint on the other hand is a very different story. Parts like the cylinder cladding were particularly tough, requiring 10 hours in caustic soda to soften it up enough to scrub off in thinners. The rust on the crankpins was from hosing the loco off after initial degreasing, and was removed with a mini wire brush in the dremel, prior to the next step.
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A clean jar of meths in the ultrasonic for three minutes, makes quick work of cleaning the motion. The paint on the cranks is thick, but there's no detail for that to obscure, so I see no reason to remove it. Hopefully the etch primer won't react to it..
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The fasteners, (do the brass and steel separately to avoid corrosion) the cylinders, and other small parts were also given this treatment as final degreasing, ready for priming when the time comes. Everything was laid on a clean rag to dry overnight. Tomorrow or Saturday, I might start marking out the frames for drilling..
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Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild

Post by GTB » Fri Aug 20, 2021 10:05 am

Old Man Aaron wrote: Thu Aug 19, 2021 2:52 pm For once, I'm grateful do deal with someone else's poor work. Because this black paint was brushed straight on without primer, (and almost certainly without cleaning) the thinners and wire brush took it straight off. The Roundhouse paint on the other hand is a very different story. Parts like the cylinder cladding were particularly tough, requiring 10 hours in caustic soda to soften it up enough to scrub off in thinners.
The 'someone else' probably used Humbrol enamel. I usually use oven cleaner for model paints, which can remove enamels from both metals and plastics.

If you plan on making a habit of stripping paint off fairly recent Roundhouse models, they use a two part auto acrylic. For that I use Septone heavy duty paint stripper from Supercheap Auto.

It's nasty stuff (read the MSDS) designed to remove auto and aircraft finishes from metal. Painted on with an old brush and even two part paints wrinkle up in a few minutes and can be scrubbed off with with an old toothbrush and Ajax cleaner. It usually takes a couple of extra applications to get the last bits out of corners.

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Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild

Post by Jimmyb » Sat Aug 21, 2021 8:59 am

GTB wrote: Fri Aug 20, 2021 10:05 am For that I use Septone heavy duty paint stripper from Supercheap Auto.

It's nasty stuff (read the MSDS) designed to remove auto and aircraft finishes from metal. Painted on with an old brush and even two part paints wrinkle up in a few minutes and can be scrubbed off with with an old toothbrush and Ajax cleaner. It usually takes a couple of extra applications to get the last bits out of corners.

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If it is the stuff I am thinking of, a mask is also advisable along with gloves and goggles, very nasty stuff.

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Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild

Post by Old Man Aaron » Thu Aug 26, 2021 3:15 pm

Cheers gents, that's good to know. Had a feeling it might've been some sort of 2-pack.. I found the meths in the ultrasonic did somewhat soften the paint on the cranks, but it's since re-hardened. I should do a spot test with etch primer on a crank before spraying the assemblies..

21/08/21
The frames received Poor Man's Marking Blue (chisel-tipped permanent marker) and drilling locations marked with a scribe. The holes around the axleboxes were just copied from "Victoria", as the respective prototypes appear to be identical. Same went for the ashpan cut-outs. The only 1935/Bundaberg-specific markings, were either side of the center axle - those are mounts and access points for the spring equalisers.

The marks were gently center-popped with the scribe, which made an easy task of starting the holes with the pin vice. The frames were then taken to the drill press.. Bit of a convoluted way to mark out and drill, I know, but it works for me.
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22/08/21
I'm not sure how it took me seven hours, and thirty of these same 0.8mm drills to do this on "Victoria", but this time took maybe 90 minutes and two drills. :dontknow: :roll: In any case, the holes were countersunk 1.5mm, to allow the dressmaking pins I use as rivets, to seat against the frames. When I first did this on "Victoria", I tried to soft-solder the pins into the frames. That was a disaster, and JB Weld was no better. Shockproof superglue was "Plan C", and surprisingly in the three years since, not one rivet has come loose. After allowing to cure overnight, the pins were gently cut off and sanded flush with the dremel. A light smearing of shockproof over the back-sides of the "rivets" helps them stay put - or at least reassures me they will.

Ashpans were chain-drilled and filed, and bearing holes were enlarged to 9.5mm.
Image


26/08/21
One thing I'd neglected to photograph, was a change to the headstocks. I realised their standard mounting screws would prevent fitting IP Darj. couplings at the height I want. So the headstocks' holes were countersunk, and M3x6mm countersunk brass screws silver soldered in. 8mm long would've been better, but these worked.
As the screws were just aligned by eye during soldering, they're not perfect, but close. So I did have to open out the holes in the tabs at each end of the frame plates (by 0.5mm) to accommodate this. The headstocks aren't thick enough for the screw heads to sit flush with the surface, so they were sanded flat with the dremel after soldering. This was done before the loco was fully stripped down.

I won't bother filling the holes from the previous owner's chopper couplings, and new overlays (can't be arsed straightening those butchered, kinked originals) are on their way from RH.
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Frames test-assembled after fitting the ball bearings. Loco rolls beautifully. Most of the cheese-head screws have been replaced with hex heads. The cheese-heads between the axles were turned down in the lathe, to better-represent the pivot blocks of the prototype's spring equalisers. The other cheese-heads on the smokebox apron are a compromise - once the cylinders and smokebox are fitted, hex bolts are just that much of a pain to fit and remove, that I leave 'em as cheeses.

Cylinders just need their clip-on overlays fettled and fitted, then I can prime and paint the chassis. After that, I might get back onto the cane trucks..
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Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild

Post by Old Man Aaron » Sun Oct 10, 2021 12:34 pm

01/10/21
Forgot there's a few jobs left before painting. The headstocks need their overlays fitting. The parts were cleaned and fluxed, then held together with bulldog clips and soft-soldered.
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02/10/21
Working out the electrical side of things, for lighting. The heat shield was moved over to the left-hand side of the loco, to protect the batteries; which will be two or three tagged AA cells wired in series. As on "Victoria", the light switch will be fitted where Roundhouse puts their R/C switch. The charge socket also fits conveniently. This time round, I'm grounding the circuit through the loco itself; This will make wiring faster, easier and tidier.
I've bought a new reversing rod from RH, and will make up a new rod that clears the light switch.
Image

The dummy steam brake gear was again copied from "Victoria", as the prototype Fowlers' parts are identical. The handbrake connection on the other side is a bit basic, but will look fine once obscured by the injector pipework. Having a hard time finding anything that remotely resembles under-footplate injectors, so if anyone has any ideas, I'd be keen to hear from you. I don't see making them from scratch ending well..
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The removable styrene ashpan fitted to "Victoria" back in March has been a success, so I've made another for "Calloway".
It's held in place with a pair of M3 cheeseheads underneath. I'll fit a pair of dummy ashpan doors, after painting and weathering. The frame stretcher above was filed out to receive the pair of bulbs to illuminate the ashpan. The stretcher was drilled and tapped M3, to receive a ring terminal as the bulbs' ground.
Image

The gussets of the tank support were far too shallow on the RH model, presumably to clear the motion. A pair of extensions were cut from a road sign, bought for $5 out of the Woodford Railway's scrap bin, and silver-soldered on. After sanding the joints flush with the dremel, soft-solder made a nice filler where needed. Another quick sanding and that's another task crossed off. I forgot to ensure the coupling rods would still clear the bracket - but they do, by about 1mm. :roll:
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Finishing the headstocks was a lot of work. The raised "pads" where the intended coupling and mounting screws were to go, had to be filed down without removing the rivet detail. 70C solder was used as a filler, though in hindsight I regret that - If I steam the loco on a hot day, I wouldn't be surprised if it melted.
Then again, I probably wouldn't bother running at all, if the temperature is over 30C. I digress.
Some JB weld was still needed here and there, and the missing rivets where the mounting screws would've gone, were represented by dressmaker's pins.
The IP Eng. Darj. couplings were cleaned up, filled with JB where needed, and fitted with a pair of M3 bolts. Coupling hooks were given the usual hot-oil-blackening treatment prior to fitting.
Image

With that, I think I can paint the chassis parts tomorrow..
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Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild

Post by LNR » Sun Oct 10, 2021 11:55 pm

Hi Aaron,
Don't know if this is any help or what type of under cab injectors you need, but these are what I made to represent those on the NA's of Puffing Billy. Simple soldering job with various bits of K&S tube and brass turnings with hex's ground on. You could of course use brass nuts.
Puffing Billy Details 081.jpg
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New Loco Log 026.jpg
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Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild

Post by bambuko » Mon Oct 11, 2021 2:09 pm

Hi Aaron, I enjoy following your progress :thumbright:
Good work.
Thank you!

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Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild

Post by Keith S » Mon Oct 11, 2021 2:59 pm

Here's a couple of pictures of the under-cab injectors I made. DJB engineering does castings of tank-mounted injectors. I bought a pair at his stall at the Garden Railway show one year.

I don't see the castings (or any other ones) on the DJB website anymore (I just checked) but possibly he still has some kicking around?

After doing some research on how they work and what pipe goes where and does what, I sawed the casting into its constituent parts and re-assembled them in a configuration I thought would work in an under-the-cab mounting with a water pipe from the tender. I don't remember why I chose to make them look like the vertical type; but making it horizontal would require only to bend the pipes a different way.
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P.S. If I'm honest, I think LNR's homemade injector detail shown above looks really well done, and is probably what I'd do if I was doing mine over.

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Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild

Post by bambuko » Mon Oct 11, 2021 4:16 pm

P.S.

I don't know how slaveishly Bundaberg boys were following Fowler original, but on my GA (of Airdmillan - as you know last one produced in UK) it does show boiler feed pump, but no injectors...??

https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=worthi ... &ia=images

boiler feed pump.png
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Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild

Post by GTB » Tue Oct 12, 2021 1:21 pm

Old Man Aaron wrote: Thu Aug 26, 2021 3:15 pm I'm not sure how it took me seven hours, and thirty of these same 0.8mm drills to do this on "Victoria", but this time took maybe 90 minutes and two drills. :dontknow:
It's called the 'Practice Effect'................

If you bought a better grade of drill and/or made sure the drill was running true, that will have also helped.

The problem with very small drills is that they get blunt easily and as they get blunt, they don't cut as well, so you increase the pressure, they get hot and get even more blunt. At the end of that feedback loop, the drill goes phut and you use bad language.

If the drill isn't running true, it will flex and eventually fatigue and go phut.....

On top of all that, cheap drills usually aren't that sharp to start with and may not be properly heat treated. Many years ago a friend and I were doing modelling demos at an exhibition and he said 'have a look at this'. The drill bit he was using in a pin chuck to drill a piece of brass was so soft that the helix had reversed under load. :shock:

Old Man Aaron wrote: Sun Oct 10, 2021 12:34 pm The handbrake connection on the other side is a bit basic, but will look fine once obscured by the injector pipework. Having a hard time finding anything that remotely resembles under-footplate injectors, so if anyone has any ideas, I'd be keen to hear from you. I don't see making them from scratch ending well.
Roundhouse have a simple brass casting for an injector that is used on their Katie locos and fits under the saddle tank on one side. Roundhouse will usually supply any casting from current models if you ask politely and the casting has a vague resemblance to the injectors used on the Bundy Fowlers when they were first built.

Looking at photos 'Bundy' is now fitted with injectors that look like the ones used on the NA class, as modelled by Grant. There seem to be as many types of injector fitted to the Bundy Fowlers now as there are locos.

I think it would be within your ability to solder up something suitable from bits of rod and tube from the K&S rack and some brass hex nuts. A simple jig made from a block of wood with a few holes and the odd nail in the right place will hold all the bits together while soft soldering.

Regards,
Graeme

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