![:scratch: :scratch:](./images/smilies/icon_scratch.gif)
"Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild
- Old Man Aaron
- Trainee Driver
- Posts: 808
- Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2016 11:08 am
- Location: Sunshine Coast QLD, Australia
Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild
Thanks again gents, I'm very pleased with how it's turning out. The loco's "to-do" list is now very short.. Not sure what to do next after this project's done, too many to choose from.. ![:scratch: :scratch:](./images/smilies/icon_scratch.gif)
![:scratch: :scratch:](./images/smilies/icon_scratch.gif)
Regards,
Aaron - Scum Class Works
Aaron - Scum Class Works
- Old Man Aaron
- Trainee Driver
- Posts: 808
- Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2016 11:08 am
- Location: Sunshine Coast QLD, Australia
Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild
31/03/22
Progress on "Calloway" has been sporadic, partly owing to the sheer amount of work needing done to my new car to get it roadworthy - such as the tail lights being rebuilt. Knew what I was getting into, but I digress.
"Calloway's" beading and rails were picked out with signwriting enamel as it covers better.
Inside the cab, along with the footplate and fittings, was given the "wash-and-wipe" weathering method, using a sooty wash of Tamiya enamels, while everything is still accessible. After a fortnight to be sure the red was dry, (okay I was busy and forgot) the cab and tanks were given a basecoat "sheen killer" of satin clear, prior to refitting.
18/04/22
Ashpan painted, dummy doors fitted, and filled with crushed clinker from a 5" loco. Wiring finished, the positive ground system seems to work well, with all the grounds and plugs cleaned and greased. We'll see how it fares. I usually get problems with the lighting on live steamers after only a few runs, so I'm hoping that by grounding the circuit through the loco, and thus cutting the wiring runs in half, I might get some actual long-term reliability out of it. In case it's the 3V grain-of-wheat bulbs to blame, I've not glued them into the headlights this time. Wondering if it might be heat affecting the bulbs, I've never had this issue with any of the same bulbs in my battery locos..
20/04/22
As expected, I had to replace the steel cab strut with brass; the steel one would constantly stick to the magnet connector for the rear headlight and short out. A steel nut was soldered to the end of the strut to hold it in place when the roof is lowered.
21/04/22
After nearly a year, "Calloway" is finally back in one piece, awaiting touch-up. Weathering and a few bits of "loco junk" to follow soon..
Progress on "Calloway" has been sporadic, partly owing to the sheer amount of work needing done to my new car to get it roadworthy - such as the tail lights being rebuilt. Knew what I was getting into, but I digress.
"Calloway's" beading and rails were picked out with signwriting enamel as it covers better.
Inside the cab, along with the footplate and fittings, was given the "wash-and-wipe" weathering method, using a sooty wash of Tamiya enamels, while everything is still accessible. After a fortnight to be sure the red was dry, (okay I was busy and forgot) the cab and tanks were given a basecoat "sheen killer" of satin clear, prior to refitting.
18/04/22
Ashpan painted, dummy doors fitted, and filled with crushed clinker from a 5" loco. Wiring finished, the positive ground system seems to work well, with all the grounds and plugs cleaned and greased. We'll see how it fares. I usually get problems with the lighting on live steamers after only a few runs, so I'm hoping that by grounding the circuit through the loco, and thus cutting the wiring runs in half, I might get some actual long-term reliability out of it. In case it's the 3V grain-of-wheat bulbs to blame, I've not glued them into the headlights this time. Wondering if it might be heat affecting the bulbs, I've never had this issue with any of the same bulbs in my battery locos..
20/04/22
As expected, I had to replace the steel cab strut with brass; the steel one would constantly stick to the magnet connector for the rear headlight and short out. A steel nut was soldered to the end of the strut to hold it in place when the roof is lowered.
21/04/22
After nearly a year, "Calloway" is finally back in one piece, awaiting touch-up. Weathering and a few bits of "loco junk" to follow soon..
Regards,
Aaron - Scum Class Works
Aaron - Scum Class Works
Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild
Difficult to make out in the gloom, but it looks lovely from what I can see. ![:D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
![:D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
Philip
Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild
The silhouette certainly looks like a Bundy Fowler and the added details tend to disguise it's Roundhouse origins.
One looks forward to seeing it in full sunlight with a rake of cane trucks behind it. You must be due for some sunshine up there soon, unless Hughie has decided to extend the Wet........
On a different subject, I haven't seen tail light assemblies like that for years, what sort of horseless carriage are you rebuilding?
Regards,
Graeme
One looks forward to seeing it in full sunlight with a rake of cane trucks behind it. You must be due for some sunshine up there soon, unless Hughie has decided to extend the Wet........
On a different subject, I haven't seen tail light assemblies like that for years, what sort of horseless carriage are you rebuilding?
Regards,
Graeme
- Old Man Aaron
- Trainee Driver
- Posts: 808
- Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2016 11:08 am
- Location: Sunshine Coast QLD, Australia
Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild
Just teasing.
![;)](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
![Image](https://i.postimg.cc/9FYykgx9/IMG-9677.jpg)
The sort that needs a new engine. Damn shame, it was recently rebuilt before the previous owner bought it, did zero research and didn't know what upkeep was needed, thus unaware of the difference in the noise it made running. It's uhh, unusual, so it's a secret until I get to see people's faces when I turn up in it.
![;)](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
![:lol:](./images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
There's not one bolt on that kind of car that doesn't need attention to make it safe and truly reliable, so I've little progress to report on "Calloway".
Rain's come and gone too many times to count this year. Really need it to stay away so I can finish repainting a 1:1 scale Malcolm Moore that lives outside..
01/05/22
So when I did "Victoria", the plan was to work out a standard sequence for weathering live steamers, and to write down the methods used.
I could then repeat those methods here on "Calloway", describing in depth, to help others feel more confident in weathering their own live steam locos.
Once paintwork was touched up, I mixed a thick wash of very dark grey, using black and white Tamiya enamels, along with a tiny tinge of brown. Use turps for thinners, (it evaporates more slowly than white spirit) and a lower ambient temperature is vital to allow long enough working times - 24C or lower seems to work for me.
Work quickly and apply to moderate-sized sections (no more than 4 square inches) using a 1/4" brush. Cover the area, and start wiping away the wash with paper towels; you'll quickly find the ideal wiping motion for the area you're working on. Apply this to the entire model, including valve gear. A swirling pattern followed by a downward streaking seems to give a realistic appearance. Once dry, just remember to gently scrub away any leftover paper fibres before clearcoating. You could also use a soft cloth instead of paper towels, but as I found, it's likely to leave a hell of a lot of lint stuck in the finish once dry, and it's a bear to scrub away with a dry toothbrush.
If you don't like how it looks, you can always add a little more straight away, or immediately wipe it off with white spirit or turps, and try again. It's all really easier than it sounds. If you want, you could just stop here, and the loco would still look great. I like to take things further though.
![Image](https://i.postimg.cc/XYN96Khz/IMG-9744.jpg)
15/05/22
I've been having problems with "Victoria"s lubricator drain leaking under steam. As I've relocated it, so it's not obstructing the cab doorway, the drain plug is inaccessible, and I have to use a syringe to drain the water. It was a brand new seal, nipping up was no use, and oily engines are a pet hate of mine. So I removed and cleaned the lubricator and plug, plugged the plug itself with soft solder, then screwed it back into the lubricator, replacing the o-ring with some thread sealant. I've pre-emptively done the same with "Calloway".
![Image](https://i.postimg.cc/XY2djG67/IMG-9868.jpg)
A last-minute headlight upgrade is an option. Never said it was a good one, but.
![:lol:](./images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
Regards,
Aaron
Regards,
Aaron - Scum Class Works
Aaron - Scum Class Works
Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild
I was hoping you would be waving the weathering stick over "Calloway", looking forward to the finished results.
Grant.
Grant.
- Old Man Aaron
- Trainee Driver
- Posts: 808
- Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2016 11:08 am
- Location: Sunshine Coast QLD, Australia
Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild
Apologies if this reads a bit funny, I really should've gone to bed already but don't want to leave this post half-written overnight..
I can always proof-read and fix it tomorrow..
Between procrastination, work on the car, the weather and being sent the wrong paint, completion of the loco is well overdue.
On the first loco I ever weathered, "Baron", I used Humbrol flat clear as a final clearcoat, with excellent results that held up well under steam - Unfortunately I binned the stuff along with the rest of my Humbrol, when I had frosting issues using the same tin on another project. That's when I switched to Tamiya's enamels. Impossible to know weather it was user error or quality issues, there.
The next and now most previous loco I weathered, "Victoria", received a final clearcoat of Tamiya gloss clear. (flattened with flat base)
This turned to a satin sheen on the hottest areas of the loco, upon first firing. Yes, I gave it weeks to cure beforehand, and sprayed it in a dehumidified room. No clue why it did that, but it really spoilt the appearance for me.
22/05/22
Hoping to avoid repeating that problem on "Calloway", I thought I'd give one last "now or never" go with Humbrol's flat clear. Again in a dehumidified room, and yes, the tins are the new UK-production stuff.
So out from the workshop queue came the weathering test-dummy Stainz. Trying enamel thinners, white spirit, and mineral turpentine, no matter how well mixed the paint was before and after thinning, regardless of air pressure and technique;
They all came out exactly as expected. Frosty all over and collecting in corners and edges. Totally unacceptable, I'm never touching Humbrol again.
![Image](https://i.postimg.cc/vBDG0k83/IMG-9881.jpg)
So out with the Tamiya clear and flat base. I don't remember the ratios of paint/flattener/white spirit, I just play with the mixture by testing it on the Stainz until I'm happy with how it looks after half an hour's drying.
"Calloway" was given a single all-round coat to seal in the previously-applied grime wash. I also cleaned "Victoria" and gave it another flat coat in hopes it might fix the satin issue.
![Image](https://i.postimg.cc/xqVYTdv4/IMG-9889.jpg)
23/05/22
This black-brown-white pastel weathering set from Tamiya is perfect for steam locos. The little sponge tip works much like a paintbrush - wiping and stippling to get the appearance you want. I go quite heavy with these, as subsequent clearcoats to seal it in will greatly diminish it's visibility. The joints in the motion have also had a second hit of the wash-and-wipe grime treatment.
![Image](https://i.postimg.cc/PqXXwNgG/IMG-9892.jpg)
![Image](https://i.postimg.cc/4xTNXWwx/IMG-9893.jpg)
15/05/22
The motion joints have all been very lightly lubricated, and oil wicked into the cylinders/valves via the spindles, so the new piston o-rings don't get moved around dry.. This way I can turn the wheels over to get at everything for weathering. The graphite yarn provided in the cylinder service kit was fitted to the piston rods, and the nuts nipped up.
As I had run out of flat clear, the pastels were then sealed in with an extremely thinned-down earthy brown for a slightly dusty windswept appearance. The effect is extremely subtle, but I think is appropriate for agricultural locomotives.
![Image](https://i.postimg.cc/8Pvz82RY/IMG-9945.jpg)
I've applied the white pastel with the sponge tip over most of the edges and details to highlight them. In addition to the black and brown where appropriate.
Again done in an exaggerated manner, as the final clearcoat will obscure it a bit. I can always apply more pastels over the top and clearcoat again.
![Image](https://i.postimg.cc/SQ3xvSM8/280640119-3194349294168103-8556486505257818349-n.jpg)
![Image](https://i.postimg.cc/xC7nh5cY/280755306-2818745991754515-8126312749861666962-n.jpg)
It's nearly there. Just some wear to be done on the buffer faces, splattered grime on the headstocks from the railheads, some soot airbrushed over the top, and maybe some grime airbrushed over the running gear. Then final clearcoat - hopefully I won't have to reapply the white pastels to the edges and clearcoat again, but we'll see..
![Image](https://i.postimg.cc/W4526TVd/280756280-1174799643255008-3104292335941710447-n.jpg)
I'm nearly finished building a new carry cradle for the loco, will get a photo of that maybe tomorrow..
Regards,
Aaron
![:roll:](./images/smilies/icon_rolleyes.gif)
I can always proof-read and fix it tomorrow..
Between procrastination, work on the car, the weather and being sent the wrong paint, completion of the loco is well overdue.
On the first loco I ever weathered, "Baron", I used Humbrol flat clear as a final clearcoat, with excellent results that held up well under steam - Unfortunately I binned the stuff along with the rest of my Humbrol, when I had frosting issues using the same tin on another project. That's when I switched to Tamiya's enamels. Impossible to know weather it was user error or quality issues, there.
The next and now most previous loco I weathered, "Victoria", received a final clearcoat of Tamiya gloss clear. (flattened with flat base)
This turned to a satin sheen on the hottest areas of the loco, upon first firing. Yes, I gave it weeks to cure beforehand, and sprayed it in a dehumidified room. No clue why it did that, but it really spoilt the appearance for me.
22/05/22
Hoping to avoid repeating that problem on "Calloway", I thought I'd give one last "now or never" go with Humbrol's flat clear. Again in a dehumidified room, and yes, the tins are the new UK-production stuff.
So out from the workshop queue came the weathering test-dummy Stainz. Trying enamel thinners, white spirit, and mineral turpentine, no matter how well mixed the paint was before and after thinning, regardless of air pressure and technique;
They all came out exactly as expected. Frosty all over and collecting in corners and edges. Totally unacceptable, I'm never touching Humbrol again.
![Image](https://i.postimg.cc/vBDG0k83/IMG-9881.jpg)
So out with the Tamiya clear and flat base. I don't remember the ratios of paint/flattener/white spirit, I just play with the mixture by testing it on the Stainz until I'm happy with how it looks after half an hour's drying.
"Calloway" was given a single all-round coat to seal in the previously-applied grime wash. I also cleaned "Victoria" and gave it another flat coat in hopes it might fix the satin issue.
![Image](https://i.postimg.cc/xqVYTdv4/IMG-9889.jpg)
23/05/22
This black-brown-white pastel weathering set from Tamiya is perfect for steam locos. The little sponge tip works much like a paintbrush - wiping and stippling to get the appearance you want. I go quite heavy with these, as subsequent clearcoats to seal it in will greatly diminish it's visibility. The joints in the motion have also had a second hit of the wash-and-wipe grime treatment.
![Image](https://i.postimg.cc/PqXXwNgG/IMG-9892.jpg)
![Image](https://i.postimg.cc/4xTNXWwx/IMG-9893.jpg)
15/05/22
The motion joints have all been very lightly lubricated, and oil wicked into the cylinders/valves via the spindles, so the new piston o-rings don't get moved around dry.. This way I can turn the wheels over to get at everything for weathering. The graphite yarn provided in the cylinder service kit was fitted to the piston rods, and the nuts nipped up.
As I had run out of flat clear, the pastels were then sealed in with an extremely thinned-down earthy brown for a slightly dusty windswept appearance. The effect is extremely subtle, but I think is appropriate for agricultural locomotives.
![Image](https://i.postimg.cc/8Pvz82RY/IMG-9945.jpg)
I've applied the white pastel with the sponge tip over most of the edges and details to highlight them. In addition to the black and brown where appropriate.
Again done in an exaggerated manner, as the final clearcoat will obscure it a bit. I can always apply more pastels over the top and clearcoat again.
![Image](https://i.postimg.cc/SQ3xvSM8/280640119-3194349294168103-8556486505257818349-n.jpg)
![Image](https://i.postimg.cc/xC7nh5cY/280755306-2818745991754515-8126312749861666962-n.jpg)
It's nearly there. Just some wear to be done on the buffer faces, splattered grime on the headstocks from the railheads, some soot airbrushed over the top, and maybe some grime airbrushed over the running gear. Then final clearcoat - hopefully I won't have to reapply the white pastels to the edges and clearcoat again, but we'll see..
![Image](https://i.postimg.cc/W4526TVd/280756280-1174799643255008-3104292335941710447-n.jpg)
I'm nearly finished building a new carry cradle for the loco, will get a photo of that maybe tomorrow..
Regards,
Aaron
Last edited by Old Man Aaron on Tue Jul 12, 2022 6:56 am, edited 1 time in total.
Regards,
Aaron - Scum Class Works
Aaron - Scum Class Works
- Peter Butler
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Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild
Beautiful work Aaron, lovely effect achieved.
The best things in life are free.... so why am I doing this?
- Tropic Blunder
- Trainee Fireman
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- Contact:
Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild
Absolutely stunning Aaron best looking roundhouse fowler I've seen yet. Shame they weren't super popular really i think that with a bit of extra detail they come up a treat.
Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild
Lovely job, Aaron.
I'm not generally abig fan of 'colonial looking ' locos with bits stuck on and spark arrestor chimneys, etc, but this just looks superb in every way.
I'm not generally abig fan of 'colonial looking ' locos with bits stuck on and spark arrestor chimneys, etc, but this just looks superb in every way.
Philip
Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild
That's a stunner!
Close observation and finely honed techniques have REALLY paid off, congratulations!
Andrew.
Close observation and finely honed techniques have REALLY paid off, congratulations!
Andrew.
Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild
The loco has come up well and the extra detailing was well worth the effort. It looks like a well maintained working cane tram loco., not a show pony on a preserved line.......
The reason I stopped using Humbrol satin clear, after many years of using it successfully, was that it stopped curing properly. The varnish I used on the pass cars I built about 8 years ago is still slightly tacky in hot weather.
I changed to Revell clear on rolling stock and haven't had much problem, although it doesn't come in satin, so I mix gloss and matt 50/50 and use that. Unfortunately it softens a little on live steam locos., so I had to find an alternative for those.
I also tried Tamiya with disastrous results, as I can't read Japanese and wasn't aware the 'matt' clear was actually a matting agent for adding to the gloss clear. Haven't tried it since.......
On my early steamers I used Wattyl satin Estapol. It worked OK, but it starts to gel in the tin once it is opened. I could live with that when it came in 125ml tins, as I was only losing the last 30ml or so, but the local blue shed only stocks it in 500ml tins now and I'm not about to buy a $40 tin of varnish and have to throw out the last 90% of it before I can use it.
After a lot of testing, I settled on British Paints oil based varnish, sold only by the green shed, who still sell it in 125ml tins. It has worked well, but Dulux have changed the formula recently and it's now crap, like Humbrol. I've got a 125ml tin of Bondall Monocel varnish to test, which looks promising, but I won't know until the weather warms up and I get around to painting something.
I've had little trouble with varnishes frosting, except the Tamiya, which was my fault. In large scale I use satin anyway, which will be less prone to frosting. It can have several causes -
- someone screwed up the formulation and added too much matting agent.
- sprayed on too dry and/or using a thinner that dries too fast.
- high air humidity. Less of an issue here in Melbourne than in Qld. I would think.
Regards,
Graeme
The reason I stopped using Humbrol satin clear, after many years of using it successfully, was that it stopped curing properly. The varnish I used on the pass cars I built about 8 years ago is still slightly tacky in hot weather.
I changed to Revell clear on rolling stock and haven't had much problem, although it doesn't come in satin, so I mix gloss and matt 50/50 and use that. Unfortunately it softens a little on live steam locos., so I had to find an alternative for those.
I also tried Tamiya with disastrous results, as I can't read Japanese and wasn't aware the 'matt' clear was actually a matting agent for adding to the gloss clear. Haven't tried it since.......
On my early steamers I used Wattyl satin Estapol. It worked OK, but it starts to gel in the tin once it is opened. I could live with that when it came in 125ml tins, as I was only losing the last 30ml or so, but the local blue shed only stocks it in 500ml tins now and I'm not about to buy a $40 tin of varnish and have to throw out the last 90% of it before I can use it.
![:roll:](./images/smilies/icon_rolleyes.gif)
After a lot of testing, I settled on British Paints oil based varnish, sold only by the green shed, who still sell it in 125ml tins. It has worked well, but Dulux have changed the formula recently and it's now crap, like Humbrol. I've got a 125ml tin of Bondall Monocel varnish to test, which looks promising, but I won't know until the weather warms up and I get around to painting something.
I've had little trouble with varnishes frosting, except the Tamiya, which was my fault. In large scale I use satin anyway, which will be less prone to frosting. It can have several causes -
- someone screwed up the formulation and added too much matting agent.
- sprayed on too dry and/or using a thinner that dries too fast.
- high air humidity. Less of an issue here in Melbourne than in Qld. I would think.
Regards,
Graeme
- Old Man Aaron
- Trainee Driver
- Posts: 808
- Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2016 11:08 am
- Location: Sunshine Coast QLD, Australia
Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild
Thanks again gents, really happy with the end result today.
Man, you've really been through the wringer with varnishes in the past, Graeme. I knew they'd proven troublesome, but all of that is something else. Hope the Bondall behaves.. Failing that, I wonder if clear "Metalshield" epoxy enamel would be any good. Don't know if it comes in satin, but it's pretty robust, could be worth looking at.
13/07/22
The usual style of carry cradle is finished, made to fit in with a smaller loco's cradle in a steel toolbox.
We'll see how the large rubber bands fare in holding the loco.
Being a tank engine and easily re-gaugeable, This will be the default travelling loco, effectively becoming the new "Scum Class Works" flagship/roving ambassador; replacing my old Ruby "Baron" of years past..
![Image](https://i.postimg.cc/PfR0Dx7K/IMG-0191.jpg)
The sun wasn't playing too nicely so it's a bit over-exposed, but good enough. The clearcoat did have me re-touching the white powders and clearcoating again.
The headstock bottoms and couplings were grubbed up with enamels this morning. A batch of variously-sized roll-down canvas blinds were made a few years back, from tissue paper. I think it came from an armour modelling tutorial on youtube..
A whitemetal water bag from Ozark Miniatures was hung on a HO track nail epoxied into the cab - should've thought to solder that back when I had the chance..
![Image](https://i.postimg.cc/j2P9K6h5/IMG-0193.jpg)
![Image](https://i.postimg.cc/63gJBpJH/IMG-0194.jpg)
The driver from "Baron" was kept when that loco was sold, and after having the bottom of his feet opened out with an end mill in the drill press, received some tiny magnets to keep him in place on the footplate.
![Image](https://i.postimg.cc/CLDYLkKb/IMG-0195.jpg)
Well, that's four down, (Baguley could do with minor reworking though) ten to go!
![Image](https://i.postimg.cc/43CBbgWj/IMG-0200.jpg)
It's always a weird feeling when the end of a long project is reached. Putting away all the tools and slowly-emptied containers of small parts; Seeing all the possible avenues of new and old projects, opening up again. Steam testing "Calloway" on Saturday, but as I've kept the motion assembled through this thing, I expect little if any adjustments will be needed..
Thanks again for reading, I hope it encourages someone to have a go at weathering their loco. It's not nearly as involved as I feel I've made it look.
Man, you've really been through the wringer with varnishes in the past, Graeme. I knew they'd proven troublesome, but all of that is something else. Hope the Bondall behaves.. Failing that, I wonder if clear "Metalshield" epoxy enamel would be any good. Don't know if it comes in satin, but it's pretty robust, could be worth looking at.
13/07/22
The usual style of carry cradle is finished, made to fit in with a smaller loco's cradle in a steel toolbox.
We'll see how the large rubber bands fare in holding the loco.
Being a tank engine and easily re-gaugeable, This will be the default travelling loco, effectively becoming the new "Scum Class Works" flagship/roving ambassador; replacing my old Ruby "Baron" of years past..
![Image](https://i.postimg.cc/PfR0Dx7K/IMG-0191.jpg)
The sun wasn't playing too nicely so it's a bit over-exposed, but good enough. The clearcoat did have me re-touching the white powders and clearcoating again.
The headstock bottoms and couplings were grubbed up with enamels this morning. A batch of variously-sized roll-down canvas blinds were made a few years back, from tissue paper. I think it came from an armour modelling tutorial on youtube..
A whitemetal water bag from Ozark Miniatures was hung on a HO track nail epoxied into the cab - should've thought to solder that back when I had the chance..
![Image](https://i.postimg.cc/j2P9K6h5/IMG-0193.jpg)
![Image](https://i.postimg.cc/63gJBpJH/IMG-0194.jpg)
The driver from "Baron" was kept when that loco was sold, and after having the bottom of his feet opened out with an end mill in the drill press, received some tiny magnets to keep him in place on the footplate.
![Image](https://i.postimg.cc/CLDYLkKb/IMG-0195.jpg)
Well, that's four down, (Baguley could do with minor reworking though) ten to go!
![Image](https://i.postimg.cc/43CBbgWj/IMG-0200.jpg)
It's always a weird feeling when the end of a long project is reached. Putting away all the tools and slowly-emptied containers of small parts; Seeing all the possible avenues of new and old projects, opening up again. Steam testing "Calloway" on Saturday, but as I've kept the motion assembled through this thing, I expect little if any adjustments will be needed..
Thanks again for reading, I hope it encourages someone to have a go at weathering their loco. It's not nearly as involved as I feel I've made it look.
Last edited by Old Man Aaron on Thu Jul 14, 2022 6:24 am, edited 1 time in total.
Regards,
Aaron - Scum Class Works
Aaron - Scum Class Works
Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild
As you should be.
![:thumbleft: :thumbleft:](./images/smilies/icon_thumright.gif)
Pretty much forgotten what sunshine looks like around here. Sitting there in the sun, the loco looks like the crew have had the time to give it a wipe over with a kero soaked rag this early in the cutting season.........
Regards,
Graeme
Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild
Top job.
Tony Willmore
Rhos Helyg Locomotive Works: http://www.rhoshelyg.me.uk
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/RhosHelygLocoWorks
Rhos Helyg Locomotive Works: http://www.rhoshelyg.me.uk
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/RhosHelygLocoWorks
Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild
You've made a wonderful job of that Aaron. You should rightly be very pleased. And thanks for detailing how you have achieved the weathering, that will come in useful in the future.
I hope you have a successful first steam up![👍](//cdn.jsdelivr.net/gh/twitter/twemoji@latest/assets/svg/1f44d.svg)
I hope you have a successful first steam up
Phil
Sporadic Garden Railer who's inconsistencies know no bounds
My Line - https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11077
Sporadic Garden Railer who's inconsistencies know no bounds
My Line - https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11077
Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild
This looks superb! I'm thinking of finally finishing my Roundhouse Lady Anne. The lack of chassis detail has always bothered me so I'll be pay homage to the work you've done on Calloway by adding rivets and ashpan detail...
I'm also thinking of using axle bearings instead of the bronze bushes, what size are the ones you've used, are they FR168ZZ?
Many thanks, Hugo
I'm also thinking of using axle bearings instead of the bronze bushes, what size are the ones you've used, are they FR168ZZ?
Many thanks, Hugo
- Old Man Aaron
- Trainee Driver
- Posts: 808
- Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2016 11:08 am
- Location: Sunshine Coast QLD, Australia
Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild
Glad to hear I've put bad ideas in your head!HugoFitz wrote: ↑Fri Jul 15, 2022 12:56 pm This looks superb! I'm thinking of finally finishing my Roundhouse Lady Anne. The lack of chassis detail has always bothered me so I'll be pay homage to the work you've done on Calloway by adding rivets and ashpan detail...
I'm also thinking of using axle bearings instead of the bronze bushes, what size are the ones you've used, are they FR168ZZ?
Many thanks, Hugo
![:twisted:](./images/smilies/icon_twisted.gif)
![;)](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
Regards,
Aaron - Scum Class Works
Aaron - Scum Class Works
Re: "Calloway", a Roundhouse Bundaberg Fowler Rebuild
That sounds like a great plan, Hugo! Adding rivets and ashpan detail would really make your Lady Anne look great. As for the axle bearings, the MF168ZZ bearings should work just fine. They are the same size as the FR168ZZ bearings that you mentioned, and they have the same type of flange. I'm sure your Lady Anne will look amazing when you're finished with it!
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