New Millie
Re: New Millie
Another quick query - after a few more runs (which have been great) the regulator is becoming a little slack - guess the various nuts and bolts are bedding in - to tighten it up, do I need to alter the nut just in front on the regulator - is there a right way? and how tight does it need to be? the regulator seems to 'move out' on the screw (sorry for the description - I'm not an engineer!)
Where did I put that uncoupler?
Re: New Millie
I think that the Millie is a cracking little engine. In a way it is like going back 30 years to the very first mamods (okay, I know that a Millie will run great from the box). But what you have is a nice simple engine that is just crying out to be personalised and spived up a bit. Loads of things to bolt on and adapt as and when. A wonderful opportunity to make something unique.
If at first you don't succeed, use a bigger hammer!
Re: New Millie
Hallo Mark,
Your problem with the regulator is not really a problem.
As I understud the retainer nut is moving during the throttel is changed from closed to open, following it becomes unsealed.
Tighten the scrab nut with the fingers until she remains during moving the throttle. It even helps to avoid this by lubrificate the small O-ring with vaseline. For this You have to unscrew the nut and the throttle than You see the red 0-ring.
The valve is from the beginning not 100% steam proof to the cyliders. This will become better with the time or you seat it in.
In Germany I do this with toothpaste on the sealing face beneath a unamusing Football Play. After 2 half times open and close it shoud be steamproof.
But i did need this technik only with my RC valve not with the manual one.
Similar it was with my Darjeeling but not so strong, so i spared the action toothpaste!
All works on this valve and other parts on the loko with much care please and without great power! Otherwise You get it damaged and need an new one.
Best regards
Frederic
Your problem with the regulator is not really a problem.
As I understud the retainer nut is moving during the throttel is changed from closed to open, following it becomes unsealed.
Tighten the scrab nut with the fingers until she remains during moving the throttle. It even helps to avoid this by lubrificate the small O-ring with vaseline. For this You have to unscrew the nut and the throttle than You see the red 0-ring.
The valve is from the beginning not 100% steam proof to the cyliders. This will become better with the time or you seat it in.
In Germany I do this with toothpaste on the sealing face beneath a unamusing Football Play. After 2 half times open and close it shoud be steamproof.
But i did need this technik only with my RC valve not with the manual one.
Similar it was with my Darjeeling but not so strong, so i spared the action toothpaste!
All works on this valve and other parts on the loko with much care please and without great power! Otherwise You get it damaged and need an new one.
Best regards
Frederic
Re: New Millie
There is a huge discussion about how tight is tight on nuts and bolts. My colleague who has 2 hands like coal shovels and plays rugby on semi-proffesional level has another "tight" then I do.
As with every "master", you only become one by making mistakes. Better do the mistakes that way that you can undo the damage, thus gently tighten the nut first. If it comes loose in a short while, put it a little bit tighter the next time, just untill it only comes loose in about every few months, eventually it will stick on it's place anyway. You only need to deform the o-ring that much that it touches the surface of the regulatoraxle to seal it off. Vaseline indeed will help it "glide" better.
Better a few times retightening than overtighten it and get the internal organs damaged. Only use tools on joints between pipework (so called unions) and if you use tools, keep them between your finger and thumb, so it can slip easily when it's tight. If you keep it in your fist, like a 3/4" spanner, you can't "feel" when its thight. That way you will tear up the thread and that is a difficult damage to repair.
It's like judging in advance how much force you probably need to get it fixed. If you use your fingers, the force is in your wrist. Gentle, subtile, agile, but not so strong. If you use your fist, the force is in your upper arm, more monkey like.
As with every "master", you only become one by making mistakes. Better do the mistakes that way that you can undo the damage, thus gently tighten the nut first. If it comes loose in a short while, put it a little bit tighter the next time, just untill it only comes loose in about every few months, eventually it will stick on it's place anyway. You only need to deform the o-ring that much that it touches the surface of the regulatoraxle to seal it off. Vaseline indeed will help it "glide" better.
Better a few times retightening than overtighten it and get the internal organs damaged. Only use tools on joints between pipework (so called unions) and if you use tools, keep them between your finger and thumb, so it can slip easily when it's tight. If you keep it in your fist, like a 3/4" spanner, you can't "feel" when its thight. That way you will tear up the thread and that is a difficult damage to repair.
It's like judging in advance how much force you probably need to get it fixed. If you use your fingers, the force is in your wrist. Gentle, subtile, agile, but not so strong. If you use your fist, the force is in your upper arm, more monkey like.
"En schöne Gruess" from an Alpine railway in Holland.
Re: New Millie
Cheers Daan & Frederic - great feedback - I'll have a fettle over the coming days and see how we get on - think its just me "getting used to things"
Where did I put that uncoupler?
Now named and numbered
Finally got around to naming the Millie - until now all motive power has carried the names of current and deceased pets ( I know!) - for my first steamer I decided I would start a series of locos based around a topic - aka as happens in the 'real world'
So being based in Kent and seeing regular flyovers by WW2 fighters, I decided I'd start in this area - so Millie has become
No4 - Spitfire
I took my time fitting the plates, using the masking tape approach recommend by John Lythgoe who I obtained the plates from - very pleased with the result - and after numerous steaming, they are still on there!
So being based in Kent and seeing regular flyovers by WW2 fighters, I decided I'd start in this area - so Millie has become
No4 - Spitfire
I took my time fitting the plates, using the masking tape approach recommend by John Lythgoe who I obtained the plates from - very pleased with the result - and after numerous steaming, they are still on there!
Where did I put that uncoupler?
- tom_tom_go
- Driver
- Posts: 4824
- Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2011 3:08 am
- Location: Kent, UK
- Contact:
Re: New Millie
Great name, looks the part. Shame she does not sound like a Merlin engine though
Did you see the spitfires fly over yesterday at home as I am in Kent as well?
Did you see the spitfires fly over yesterday at home as I am in Kent as well?
-
- Trainee Driver
- Posts: 664
- Joined: Wed Sep 21, 2011 9:24 pm
- Location: kent england
Re: New Millie
Yes, Spitfire flypast in Deal yesterday. I think it was the Royal Marines' annual visit.
Re: New Millie
Yes I did, well I heard them well ahead of seeing them - I think they were displaying at Headcorn (as well as at Deal) - the Battle of Britain event - I'm near TWells and we tend to be on the westerly out route before they go north or south to avoid the Gatwick stacks.
I think a dual seated one is based there as we regularly see it up above with another plane close by taking pics of the lucky person in the second seat.
I think a dual seated one is based there as we regularly see it up above with another plane close by taking pics of the lucky person in the second seat.
Where did I put that uncoupler?
Re: New Millie
Nice job there.
(The grapes in the background seem to be doing nicely as well )
(The grapes in the background seem to be doing nicely as well )
If at first you don't succeed, use a bigger hammer!
Re: New Millie
Cheers Jim - yes the grapes have done well - this year - we grow the vine for leaf coverage on a fence rather than for the grapes - the challenge is that in France , they might grow 10 - 12 bunches off each vine - on ours because it runs over 100ft along the fence, we've got probably 200 bunches, but they never gather enough flesh to be really viable - come September they are nearly all seed!
As you'll see from a more recent photo they are growing and the CHLR does have a vendage season, where we use the railway to clear all the bunches - I'll try nd take some pics this year!
As you'll see from a more recent photo they are growing and the CHLR does have a vendage season, where we use the railway to clear all the bunches - I'll try nd take some pics this year!
Where did I put that uncoupler?
- IrishPeter
- Driver
- Posts: 1400
- Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2011 3:24 am
- Location: 'Boro, VA
Re: New Millie
I have had a 'Millie' for about five years, and she is still my favourite locomotive just to let run. The first 10 hours of running time she was decidedly skittish with the regulator not taking that much adjustment between 'gentle plod' and 'warp speed.' However, she now has a very nice level of control especially on the relatively flat temporary basement line I am using at the moment. Mine has gained a full cab, cylinder covers, and a safety valve bonnet, and I am wondering what over "fluffy dice" items I can add.
My other favourite locomotive is one of the Roundhouse Annas from c.1990 which is also a docile beast.
Cheers,
Peter in Va.
My other favourite locomotive is one of the Roundhouse Annas from c.1990 which is also a docile beast.
Cheers,
Peter in Va.
Traffic Pattern? What pattern? Spuds out; grain in, but cattle, sheep and passengers are a lot less predictable.
Re: New Millie
Yes I'm looking at a few more bling items - cylinder covers are on there, riveted buffer beam overlays are on the list already and I'm also planning some cab steps from Locoworks - look a nice detailed add on
Where did I put that uncoupler?
Re: New Millie
Just a quick update - videos to follow
Spitfire has now had remote control fitted by Matt at Barley Pit Works and he's done a great job - there are some photos below - the receiver and battery are tucked underwear and the driver stands proudly on the servo , virtually hiding it! No need for a cab or tender fitting which best suited my twisting industrial style line.
Its changed driving her from being fun but manically stressful if she took off to now being a slow speed enjoyable drive - she's rostered for the stopping service this weekend where as she normally has to run the express as stopping accurately at intermediate stations has not been possible
Will try and get some video up this weekend
Spitfire has now had remote control fitted by Matt at Barley Pit Works and he's done a great job - there are some photos below - the receiver and battery are tucked underwear and the driver stands proudly on the servo , virtually hiding it! No need for a cab or tender fitting which best suited my twisting industrial style line.
Its changed driving her from being fun but manically stressful if she took off to now being a slow speed enjoyable drive - she's rostered for the stopping service this weekend where as she normally has to run the express as stopping accurately at intermediate stations has not been possible
Will try and get some video up this weekend
Where did I put that uncoupler?
- tom_tom_go
- Driver
- Posts: 4824
- Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2011 3:08 am
- Location: Kent, UK
- Contact:
Re: New Millie
You can always run an inertia wagon in your trains now Mark, with R/C it will be great.
I have one you can try.
I have one you can try.
Re: New Millie
I've got one already
Yes with that hooked up, I can get her to crawl along, up and down the bumps on the line
Yes with that hooked up, I can get her to crawl along, up and down the bumps on the line
Where did I put that uncoupler?
Re: New Millie
Thought I'd share a couple of photos of CHLR's Millie at speed at the recent Kent 16mm steam up
Compared to the tight and gradient heavy CHLR, Spitfire was able to open her cylinders fully and get up to NG 'Main Line' speed - at times the safety wasn't blowing - which if you know a Millie means she was working hard - the momo wagon (disguised as a coal wagon) helps tremendously
I'm now adding more 'bling' in the shape of buffer beam overlays, more coal in the boot, step inlays - with cylinder covers and other upgrades planned
Compared to the tight and gradient heavy CHLR, Spitfire was able to open her cylinders fully and get up to NG 'Main Line' speed - at times the safety wasn't blowing - which if you know a Millie means she was working hard - the momo wagon (disguised as a coal wagon) helps tremendously
I'm now adding more 'bling' in the shape of buffer beam overlays, more coal in the boot, step inlays - with cylinder covers and other upgrades planned
Where did I put that uncoupler?
- tom_tom_go
- Driver
- Posts: 4824
- Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2011 3:08 am
- Location: Kent, UK
- Contact:
Re: New Millie
Get those wheels painted and the buffers chemically blackened or painted Mark
I was impressed with the control you now have of the loco since R/C was installed.
When you need to change direction does the loco require a fair bit of force to push/pull it? I was wondering if on your line at home if you had raised track at the end of each station you could let the loco roll back after stopping to then run around your run round loops?
I was impressed with the control you now have of the loco since R/C was installed.
When you need to change direction does the loco require a fair bit of force to push/pull it? I was wondering if on your line at home if you had raised track at the end of each station you could let the loco roll back after stopping to then run around your run round loops?
Re: New Millie
Yes, wheels, rods and buffers in the blackening list band thanks for the feedback about control - much more relaxing
To change direction, the loco needs to do one 'chuff' in the opposite direction (about one rotation of the wheels) - at the moment its need 'Maradona's hand' to change direction but having inclines is an interesting idea - I think for it to happen without any outside help would involve inclines more akin to a funicular!
To change direction, the loco needs to do one 'chuff' in the opposite direction (about one rotation of the wheels) - at the moment its need 'Maradona's hand' to change direction but having inclines is an interesting idea - I think for it to happen without any outside help would involve inclines more akin to a funicular!
Where did I put that uncoupler?
Re: New Millie
I tried this with a single cylinder Archangel Brick. You do need a steep slope and it is very dependent on how far the regulator is open and how much pressure is in the boiler.
Probably a non starter.
Probably a non starter.
If at first you don't succeed, use a bigger hammer!
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 6 guests