A Kab for a Konrad

Discussion of Live Steam locomotives should be located here

Moderators: Big Jim, laalratty

User avatar
FWLR
Driver
Driver
Posts: 1701
Joined: Sat Aug 05, 2017 9:45 am
Location: Preston, Lancashire, UK

Re: A Kab for a Konrad

Post by FWLR » Mon Nov 12, 2018 10:02 am

Hope it works for you Keith. Hopefully it will. The different thickness’s won’t be helping, but with a bit of patience and luck :) you should be soldering brass like a professional……. ;) ;)
Rod

Life is so easy when I run my trains. :thumbright:

🚂🚃🚃🚃🚃🚃🚃🚃🚃🚃

https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364

User avatar
f.schulz
Cleaner
Cleaner
Posts: 28
Joined: Tue May 24, 2016 6:14 pm
Location: Munich, Germany
Contact:

Re: A Kab for a Konrad

Post by f.schulz » Mon Nov 12, 2018 10:51 pm

Hallo guys,

this is my Konrad:

Image

Image

Image

He is fully RC whistle and steam regulator controlled. RC is completely on the loco, nothing is in the tender except dummi coals.
Loc and tender are regaugable 45/32mm.

Wooden cab is a very modified kit from "lasergang"

This for Your information.

Wishes

Frederic

User avatar
FWLR
Driver
Driver
Posts: 1701
Joined: Sat Aug 05, 2017 9:45 am
Location: Preston, Lancashire, UK

Re: A Kab for a Konrad

Post by FWLR » Tue Nov 13, 2018 8:21 am

Unusual Frederic… I like it.
Rod

Life is so easy when I run my trains. :thumbright:

🚂🚃🚃🚃🚃🚃🚃🚃🚃🚃

https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364

User avatar
SimonWood
Trainee Fireman
Trainee Fireman
Posts: 179
Joined: Tue Apr 07, 2015 9:46 pm
Location: West Wales
Contact:

Re: A Kab for a Konrad

Post by SimonWood » Tue Nov 13, 2018 1:47 pm

Michael Saettler wrote:
Sat Nov 10, 2018 5:07 pm
The cab looks really great! In fact, the Konrad is a good base to make different looks. My Konrad got a cab from plywood because I have neither the knowledge nor the machines for doing it in metal.

Image
Thanks! The wooden look suits the Konrad well. It's amazing how different cabs completely change the character of this splendid slow-runner.
Keith S wrote:
Sat Nov 10, 2018 5:52 pm
As for painting, which I also loathe, if you're using enamel paint, try popping the just-sprayed cab into the oven on its lowest setting. The paint will harden in half an hour rather than the three days it will take without the oven.

Please say "hello" to Tony for me when you see him next. He was very kind at the 2017 show in Peterborough, what a nice man.
Thanks, I'll do that. And I'll say "hello" to Tony, he is indeed a very nice man!
FWLR wrote:
Sun Nov 11, 2018 9:00 am
You really need has low a wattage as you can have when soldering thin brass. I did some the other week and I used a high wattage and blew the brass away. so I then got my lowest iron out, about 30 watts and it did a better job. I also only tacked it first, then ran solder in-between them.
This is useful to me (a bit of a soldering novice). Thanks Rod. So far I've done all my soldering on the cab using Tony's (rather hefty) blowtorch. I'm trying to remember why we thought it was better to glue it. Tom you're right about glue. One side of my bunker has already dropped off. With the spectacles what I thought I would do is paint the outer rims (which are fixed to the cab) and leave the inner rims (which rotate) in brass. One half of the outer rims are already fixed. So I've still got to sandwich the glass between the inner rims - and if I solder, not crack the glass, and then put them in place and fix the remaining outer rims. Again, if I solder, without cracking the glass. And somewhere along the way paint it - which I could either do first, or afterwards by masking the entire inner rotating spectacle.

I think I've explained that badly, but I'm not sure I'll do better if I try again.

Meanwhile I've not progressed much on these cosmetic details because I've been busy trying to put RC on the reverser - to do which, I've designed a linkage into the cab, and mounted a servo inside the cab (photos to follow).
f.schulz wrote:
Mon Nov 12, 2018 10:51 pm
this is my Konrad:

Image

Image

Image
Excellent! Once again the wooden cab gives it a different character. I like all the details - especially the bell.
f.schulz wrote:
Mon Nov 12, 2018 10:51 pm
He is fully RC whistle and steam regulator controlled. RC is completely on the loco, nothing is in the tender except dummi coals.
Do you have any pics of where you have mounted the servos? I'd really like to get RC on a whistle if I can fit it in (and regulator would be nice).

User avatar
f.schulz
Cleaner
Cleaner
Posts: 28
Joined: Tue May 24, 2016 6:14 pm
Location: Munich, Germany
Contact:

Re: A Kab for a Konrad

Post by f.schulz » Wed Nov 14, 2018 11:45 pm

Hallo Simon,

where is this problem, there is enough place in and under the bottom of the cab.

Do a look into a 1:32 modell, there You have problems.

I have fotos but due to this SW I can not post them in this forum and I refuse to place it in any foreign cloud. Sorry!

Regards

Frederic

User avatar
Keith S
Driver
Driver
Posts: 1383
Joined: Thu Feb 24, 2011 11:44 pm
Location: Canada

Re: A Kab for a Konrad

Post by Keith S » Thu Nov 15, 2018 10:22 am

Simon, I don't think the movable rings that sandwich the glass are meant to be soldered at all! In that case, I think very carefully applied glue to the inner flanges of the rings, so they will stick to the glass, is perfectly adequate.

For the outer ones, the trouble I had was that after soldering one side, if I applied enough heat to make the solder run into the joint on the other side, it was also enough heat to loosen the first side and make it drop off. If I were to do it again I would follow the low wattage iron advice from FWLR. There must be some way to do it.

User avatar
SimonWood
Trainee Fireman
Trainee Fireman
Posts: 179
Joined: Tue Apr 07, 2015 9:46 pm
Location: West Wales
Contact:

Re: A Kab for a Konrad

Post by SimonWood » Thu Nov 15, 2018 1:15 pm

Keith S wrote:
Thu Nov 15, 2018 10:22 am
Simon, I don't think the movable rings that sandwich the glass are meant to be soldered at all! In that case, I think very carefully applied glue to the inner flanges of the rings, so they will stick to the glass, is perfectly adequate.

For the outer ones, the trouble I had was that after soldering one side, if I applied enough heat to make the solder run into the joint on the other side, it was also enough heat to loosen the first side and make it drop off. If I were to do it again I would follow the low wattage iron advice from FWLR. There must be some way to do it.
Thanks. Sounds like a sensible strategy to pursue when I've finished messing about with RC.

User avatar
artfull dodger
Fireman
Fireman
Posts: 413
Joined: Thu Apr 12, 2012 2:23 pm
Location: Kokomo, Indiana, USA

Re: A Kab for a Konrad

Post by artfull dodger » Sat Nov 24, 2018 1:04 pm

Love the Kab for Konrad, and the color. Reminds me a of a line in Japan that was written about in Steam in the Garden magazine here in the USA. He had a diesel critter made from a spam can that was that color and looked delightful among the flowers about his garden railway. He ran a Regner Vincent on his line but with a more colonial look cab on his steamer. I might be getting a Konrad for myself soon, and as I am sure the factory cab plate is no longer available, I will have to fabricate one for my engine. I want to keep the German/Austrian look on my however. Mike the Aspie
Silly NT's.....I have Asperger's Syndrome!

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests