5" gauge 0-6-0 'Sweet Pea'

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tom_tom_go
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Re: 5" gauge 0-6-0 'Sweet Pea'

Post by tom_tom_go » Wed Feb 12, 2020 3:48 pm

To supply the injector with controlled steam flow it needs to be connected to a valve. The turret on the boiler of the loco already had a valve and a tapped thread for an additional valve should one need to be fitted later on (currently fitted with a blanking plug).

Unfortunately, I discovered that the spare valve on the turret cannot take 3/16" pipe which is what the injector requires (I reckon the valve is for 5/32" pipe which is smaller). After working out the TPI of the thread (after learning how to work this out) I needed to purchase a valve that could take 3/16" pipe with a 5/16" x 32 TPI thread. I grew up with the metric system so just working this all out is an achievement!

Here is the new injector steam valve installed (the connection is angled at 45 degrees so the larger diameter pipe can be connected):

IMG_20200209_134300-01.jpeg

The hole pictured here was used for the whistle pipework that went under the footplate, however, the whistle needs to be moved to make way for the injector water valve that will be installed in its place (I want the whistle mounted on the spectacle plate anyway):

IMG_20200209_122839-01.jpeg

I had to enlarge the hole slightly to allow the larger union nuts to fit. I did this very slowly and with a block on the top of the hole so to not slip through with the drill and hit the boiler!

The new pipework shown goes from the new valve to the steam injector:

IMG_20200209_144038-01.jpeg
IMG_20200209_164729-01.jpeg

I have not soldered the brass nipples on the pipework yet as the injector is sitting too low to the ground, the pipe needs adjusting.

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Re: 5" gauge 0-6-0 'Sweet Pea'

Post by tom_tom_go » Thu Feb 13, 2020 2:57 pm

This is the latest work on installing the injector bringing the thread up to present day:

IMG_20200211_213021-01.jpeg
IMG_20200211_212530-01.jpeg

I have not soldered any of the pipework yet so this is just trial fitting.

To get the water feed connected to the injector a new take off is required from the saddle tank. The water filter shown below needs to be installed inside the tank with the union fitting on the outside so that a pipe can be connected:

IMG_20200212_192439-01.jpeg

I am starting to get more confident with pipe bending. Although I did buy a pipe bender and pipe bending springs I have discovered that heating copper pipe over my gas hob, cooling and then heating again is a very effective way of making bends without kinks.

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Re: 5" gauge 0-6-0 'Sweet Pea'

Post by tom_tom_go » Sat Feb 15, 2020 6:31 pm

I think that's it for the injector placement. The pipe bends now line up with the existing pipework and the injector is higher and further back away from the rear wheel. I will solder a longer pipe to the drain on the injector to direct water away from the wheel if needed:

IMG_20200215_180329-01.jpeg

As a comparison:

IMG_20200211_212530-01.jpeg

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Re: 5" gauge 0-6-0 'Sweet Pea'

Post by tom_tom_go » Sat Feb 15, 2020 6:43 pm

In the last picture the water tank has been removed as I have sent this off to my engineering friend to fit the water filter as it is a bit of a conundrun but I also sent the chimney base and cap as I have decided I want an even bigger chimney!

IMG_20200213_194023-01.jpeg

The base and cap need to be silver soldered for strength and I don't have a blow torch big enough to deliver the heat required for such large items.

The chimney size will be similar to the one fitted in this video:


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Re: 5" gauge 0-6-0 'Sweet Pea'

Post by dewintondave » Sat Feb 15, 2020 8:58 pm

tom_tom_go wrote:
Wed Feb 12, 2020 3:48 pm
After working out the TPI of the thread (after learning how to work this out) I needed to purchase a valve that could take 3/16" pipe with a 5/16" x 32 TPI thread. I grew up with the metric system so just working this all out is an achievement!
Good on you Tom! I too was taught metric at school, luckily learnt imperial in industry. We were really let down by the Europhiles. I've got a Greenly O gauge truck drawing from '20's or 30's where he dimensioned everything in mm, and made it 7mm / ft, and even used those dopey commas for a decimal place :D
Best wishes,
Dave

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Re: 5" gauge 0-6-0 'Sweet Pea'

Post by dewintondave » Sat Feb 15, 2020 9:00 pm

tom_tom_go wrote:
Sat Feb 15, 2020 6:43 pm
In the last picture the water tank has been removed as I have sent this off to my engineering friend to fit the water filter as it is a bit of a conundrun but I also sent the chimney base and cap as I have decided I want an even bigger chimney!
I can see why Tom, nothing says narrow-gauge more than a tall chimney :thumbup:
Best wishes,
Dave

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Re: 5" gauge 0-6-0 'Sweet Pea'

Post by tom_tom_go » Sat Feb 22, 2020 5:48 pm

While I am waiting for the saddle tank and chimney to return I have started on some other projects on the loco.

As Running at my ME club requires the use of a spark arrestor when pulling passenger services I have started to think about how to install such a device that is not an ugly looking mesh cover on top of the chimney that dampens the chuff.

My first idea was to fit stainless steel mesh inside the firebox to block any deposits going down the fire tubes (bake bean can tin used as a template before cutting up expensive stainless steel mesh):

IMG_20200216_154003-01.jpeg

I got the idea from looking into full size steam locos that use a 'brick arch' (one of the joys of larger scale steam is you learn about stuff like this), however, it was pointed out to me by those more in the know that the mesh would be subject to extreme heat and likely to block easily.

After some more Internet searching I found pictures of mesh cones inside smokeboxes. Here is the smokebox of my loco (note the chimney pipe is just a piece of similar sized steel tube, it is not fixed in place hence why it is not straight):

IMG_20200217_212257-01.jpeg

The steel mesh cone would need to be able to slip over the blower pipe (on the right in the picture above) but also fit the outside of the chimney.

Here is my first attempt:

IMG_20200221_202730-01.jpeg

It is a bit crude and held together with steel wire (mesh is difficult to shape unlike the paper mockup ones I made!)

The blower pipe is not in the ideal place for fitting a cone over the blast pipe so I have decided to remake this and make a better cone.

Only way to learn is to have a go and improve...

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Re: 5" gauge 0-6-0 'Sweet Pea'

Post by tom_tom_go » Sat Feb 22, 2020 7:40 pm

As I did not want to buy new pipe or nipples for the blower (some days you just want to get stuff done and not wait for parts) I made a brass sleeve from some brass rod I had in the bits box for the existing pipe and then silver soldered on additional copper pipe:

IMG_20200222_110557-01.jpeg
IMG-20200222-WA0001-01.jpeg

Oops, what did I forgot to do? Yep, I forgot to add the union nut and while I tried to file down the brass sleeve on the belt sander I spilt the pipe making the whole piece useless.

My second attempt also failed as I used a piece of larger diameter copper pipe as a sleeve but during soldering must of soldered the passageway as it was blocked even when connected to the airline!

IMG_20200222_125620-01.jpeg

After walking away from it all for a while I had another go but this time I salvaged the nipple from the original blower pipe (cut and drilled it out) and made a new pipe from scratch, success!

IMG_20200222_171308-01.jpeg

Blower pipe on test:



I am finding silver soldering and any work that requires heating up easier now due to the use of insulating fire bricks which repel heat back into the part you are working on:

IMG_20200220_174101-01.jpeg

I cannot recommend purchasing these types of bricks enough for soldering work!

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Re: 5" gauge 0-6-0 'Sweet Pea'

Post by Peter Butler » Sat Feb 22, 2020 7:49 pm

.... and no doubt, your wife recommends their use on kitchen tables!
The best things in life are free.... so why am I doing this?

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Re: 5" gauge 0-6-0 'Sweet Pea'

Post by tom_tom_go » Sat Feb 22, 2020 8:14 pm

Peter Butler wrote:
Sat Feb 22, 2020 7:49 pm
.... and no doubt, your wife recommends their use on kitchen tables!
I did demonstrate to her how well they insulate heat on the dining table, beats soldering in the workshop in this horrible weather with the constant wind and rain!

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