bambuko loco works 0-6-2 (Fowler)

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Re: bambuko loco works 0-6-2 (Fowler)

Post by GTB » Wed Sep 04, 2019 6:20 pm

bambuko wrote:
Wed Sep 04, 2019 11:59 am
I guess it depends on the grade of Loctite?
Which one did you use, please?
Loctite 648, which I use to fix wheels to axles has got a shear strength of 3900 PSI.
I'm still using up my bottle of Loctite 603, which was the predecessor of Loctite 648. Looking at the data sheets, 601 has a slightly lower strength, 22.5MPa compared to 25MPa, but it cures faster, so I'm not planning on changing until I have to.

I've only had to remove cranks/wheels from the axles of a loco in one case. Predictably it was the only loco with outside cranks fixed with Loctite.......

I didn't need to use any heat to dismantle the cranks, but I carefully cleaned the crank seat on the axles with solvent before remaking the joint.

As you say, make up a test joint and see how much effort it takes to dismantle it.

Graeme

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Re: bambuko loco works 0-6-2 (Fowler)

Post by bambuko » Mon Sep 09, 2019 6:43 pm

I have finished axleboxes, fitted the bearings and made some dummy axles from mild steel (proper ones will be made from silver steel) just to try the fit etc.

Image

Quite pleased with the result.
Everything is smooth and just as it should be :thumbup: , although it was quite a challenge - difference between sloppy fit and just right fit of the bearings on the axles is measured in 0.01mm (or less than 1/2 thou for you imperial types) so rather tighter than my usual tolerances :mrgreen:

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Re: bambuko loco works 0-6-2 (Fowler)

Post by tom_tom_go » Mon Sep 09, 2019 7:07 pm

Excellent work, I can appreciate the effort you have put into that finish.

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Re: bambuko loco works 0-6-2 (Fowler)

Post by Keith S » Mon Sep 09, 2019 9:27 pm

That frame looks excellent. There's something about how square it is and the level of detail that makes it look "right". May I ask why you decided to omit the springs?

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Re: bambuko loco works 0-6-2 (Fowler)

Post by bambuko » Mon Sep 09, 2019 10:26 pm

Keith S wrote:
Mon Sep 09, 2019 9:27 pm
...May I ask why you decided to omit the springs?
Number of reasons (in no particular order)
- my personal preference is for equalisation rather than simple springing, but my original design (which looked OK on CAD screen :D ) turned out to be a bit too complicated... in real life
- trying to limit experimental/unproven aspects of the design (keen to get this loco running, rather than learning what works or doesn't work)
- couldn't do it neatly enough

I will probably try it on another (simpler?) loco, just to get an experience :thumbup:
for now, I just want to get some progress - this project is taking far longer than I was hoping it would :oops:

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Re: bambuko loco works 0-6-2 (Fowler)

Post by Hydrostatic Dazza » Mon Sep 09, 2019 10:44 pm

How about skipping screws and broaching etc and using a mild Loctite for the crank to axle bond via the quartering jig, then cross drilling the crank and axle (use PCB type carbide drill, not a twist drill) and fitting a pin. For pins the smooth shanks of 1.50mm HSS drills worked well for me. Insert the pin with a retainer compound. One can use a small drift made from a 1.40mm drill shank inserted into a small piece of round, to knock the pin out if the need arises to pull the wheel, axle crank assembly down with a warming to break the Loctite crank to axle bond.
Might save a lot of fluffing about and still look sweet. 1.5mm HSS pins will be more then strong enough to handle the torque loads. Heck 0.50mm would be enough.
Cheers from Dazza, The Hydrostatic Lubricator 8)
The chances of finding out what’s really going on in the universe are so remote, the only thing to do is hang the sense of it and keep yourself occupied. Douglas Adams

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Re: bambuko loco works 0-6-2 (Fowler)

Post by bambuko » Mon Sep 09, 2019 11:33 pm

Hydrostatic Dazza wrote:
Mon Sep 09, 2019 10:44 pm
How about skipping screws and broaching etc ...
yes, this is another option under consideration :thumbright:
I usually start with most complicated one :mrgreen: and then reality takes over and a simpler one becomes more appealling :lol:

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Re: bambuko loco works 0-6-2 (Fowler)

Post by DonW » Tue Sep 10, 2019 12:04 am

Hydrostatic Dazza wrote:
Mon Sep 09, 2019 10:44 pm
How about skipping screws and broaching etc and using a mild Loctite for the crank to axle bond via the quartering jig, then cross drilling the crank and axle (use PCB type carbide drill, not a twist drill) and fitting a pin. For pins the smooth shanks of 1.50mm HSS drills worked well for me. Insert the pin with a retainer compound. One can use a small drift made from a 1.40mm drill shank inserted into a small piece of round, to knock the pin out if the need arises to pull the wheel, axle crank assembly down with a warming to break the Loctite crank to axle bond.
Might save a lot of fluffing about and still look sweet. 1.5mm HSS pins will be more then strong enough to handle the torque loads. Heck 0.50mm would be enough.
That thought occurred to me but it does preclude giving a slight tweak to the quartering so the drilling for the pin needs to be very precise.

Don

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Re: bambuko loco works 0-6-2 (Fowler)

Post by FWLR » Tue Sep 10, 2019 8:26 am

Brilliant work Chris. It sure is coming along nicely. :thumbright:

Things can get to be longer than expected to do mate, my Garage for our line took nearly 2 months or more.... :roll: :roll:
Rod

Life is so easy when I run my trains. :thumbright:

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https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364

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Re: bambuko loco works 0-6-2 (Fowler)

Post by Hydrostatic Dazza » Fri Sep 13, 2019 6:54 am

DonW wrote:
Tue Sep 10, 2019 12:04 am
Hydrostatic Dazza wrote:
Mon Sep 09, 2019 10:44 pm
How about skipping screws and broaching etc and using a mild Loctite for the crank to axle bond via the quartering jig, then cross drilling the crank and axle (use PCB type carbide drill, not a twist drill) and fitting a pin. For pins the smooth shanks of 1.50mm HSS drills worked well for me. Insert the pin with a retainer compound. One can use a small drift made from a 1.40mm drill shank inserted into a small piece of round, to knock the pin out if the need arises to pull the wheel, axle crank assembly down with a warming to break the Loctite crank to axle bond.
Might save a lot of fluffing about and still look sweet. 1.5mm HSS pins will be more then strong enough to handle the torque loads. Heck 0.50mm would be enough.
That thought occurred to me but it does preclude giving a slight tweak to the quartering so the drilling for the pin needs to be very precise.

Don
For what it may be worth, I did one crank to axle, Loctite, let set, drilled and pinned it.

Image

Image

Image

then I fitted the other side and Loctite in the quartering jig, let set.

Image

Image

The tapered wood wedge is to ensure firm positive location of the crank pins in the jig while the Loctite cures.


Image

I then fitted the wheel sets in the frames along with the rods and bushes etc to check all is rolling sweet. When satisfied the quartering was sweet, I dropped the wheel sets out and drilled and pinned the remaining other side of crank/axles.
I am thinking if I need to pull down the wheel sets, tap-tap the pins out, a slight warming of the wheels with the LPG torch to break the Loctite.
I reckon the important thing is a good accurate and stable quartering jig. Take the time to make a nice one.
Cheers from Dazza, The Hydrostatic Lubricator 8)
The chances of finding out what’s really going on in the universe are so remote, the only thing to do is hang the sense of it and keep yourself occupied. Douglas Adams

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Re: bambuko loco works 0-6-2 (Fowler)

Post by DonW » Fri Sep 13, 2019 8:46 am

Lovely work Dazza. I think I need a lot more workshop practice to boost skills and confidence.

Don

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Re: bambuko loco works 0-6-2 (Fowler)

Post by Hydrostatic Dazza » Fri Sep 13, 2019 9:24 pm

DonW wrote:
Fri Sep 13, 2019 8:46 am
Lovely work Dazza. I think I need a lot more workshop practice to boost skills and confidence.

Don
I reckon you are going along pretty nicely. I have never done this stuff before, I often do some test runs on scrap and then get stuck in.
Cheers from Dazza, The Hydrostatic Lubricator 8)
The chances of finding out what’s really going on in the universe are so remote, the only thing to do is hang the sense of it and keep yourself occupied. Douglas Adams

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Re: bambuko loco works 0-6-2 (Fowler)

Post by bambuko » Sat Nov 02, 2019 5:32 pm

It is happening at glacial pace :mrgreen: but there is some progress to report, so here it is:

Wheel blanks held in soft jaws of the chuck.

Image

Six wheels, plus one for spare (and for f*** ups :thumbup: ), axle hole reamed and outside register turned at the same setting (to ensure they are concentric).
Seventh wheel is on the spigot used to finish turn tyre thread

Image

Spigot in the chuck ready for wheels.

Image

There is enough clearance between axle hole in the wheel and retaining bolt to allow the wheel to be tapped until precisely centred on the spigot.

Image

Finishing the wheel thread (you can also see poor man's DRO substitute using DTI :thumbright: )

Image

Finished wheels.

Image

Wheels will be loctited on the axle, rather than held by a grub screw (as suggested in Brian Wilson's book).
Unlike the commercial offerings they will never be re-gauged so there is no point in grub screw.

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Re: bambuko loco works 0-6-2 (Fowler)

Post by bambuko » Fri Nov 08, 2019 3:20 pm

Bit of a milestone today :thumbright:

Image

and on it's own "legs" for the first time :mrgreen:

Image

Delighted with how free rolling and smooth it is on ball bearings.
It was definitely a lot more effort than what it would be if I used conventional bronze axleboxes,
and I hope the bearings I used are up the job, but so far it was really worth it (at least for me).

Looking at the wheels, I am inclined to blacken them rather than leave them shiny?
Black would have (at least afaiac) more "prototypical" appearance?
What do you think guys? (and girls, if there are any here?)

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Re: bambuko loco works 0-6-2 (Fowler)

Post by Hydrostatic Dazza » Fri Nov 08, 2019 8:04 pm

That looks sweet. Nice work. I like the surface plate as well.

Image
Cheers from Dazza, The Hydrostatic Lubricator 8)
The chances of finding out what’s really going on in the universe are so remote, the only thing to do is hang the sense of it and keep yourself occupied. Douglas Adams

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