Joining code 200 bullhead to other stuff

[Garethh]

I recently bought a bundle of track kit bits off of eBay in a rare case of something going cheaper than expected. It’s all brand right 45mm stuff which I believe is tenmillle code 200 bullhead but could be wrong. So far I’ve assembled the points and one section of track and now need to figure out how to join it to the rest of my line. I currently have a mix of lab and Peco code 250, anyone got a clue how I could go about this or am I going to be selling it on again shortly!?

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[MRail]

Generally... [b]I do say "generally"[/b]...
A hacksaw slot close to the foot of the larger rail, will allow a fishplate/joiner of the smaller rail to slide in.
Take care to position the slot so the rail heads are at the same level!

This certainly works with Peco code 250 to LGB code 332.

For Peco 200, the code 250 joiners will fit the web, so may help in this case.

[Garethh]

That sounds like it could work? Think I need to do some experimenting. My other thought was to solder a short piece of one type to the end of the other, does anyone know if I’d be able to join nickel silver and brass in this way?

[TonyW]

My other thought was to solder a short piece of one type to the end of the other, does anyone know if I’d be able to join nickel silver and brass in this way?

That's the way I would do it. Two short lengths of rail (one of each type) placed head down end to end and then silver soldered together, and repeat for the other rail. As-supplied rail joiners can then be used to hold it all together. That's how it is done in full-size...

[Garethh]

Funnily enough I work at a few locations that mix bullhead and flat bottom but have never thought to take a close look at the join!

[Soar Valley Light]

It used to be done with a pair of junction fishplates but the track standards changed about ten years to make welding a requirement. The reason was that the change in fishplate shape produces 'stress risers' meaning that they are very prone to breaking. There are still plenty out there mind you!

Tony's suggestion of soldering them, and his method of doing it, are exactly what I would do. Just be careful to make sure the rails are accurately lined up before soldering, otherwise any misalignment may produce a kick that could fetch you off the road.

Andrew

[TonyW]

It used to be done with a pair of junction fishplates...

Yes indeed, like this:

[Graff B.]

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I’ve used silver soldered joints between different rail sections for years, works well. I believe the Festiniog railway has flatbottom welded to bullhead as well, so it’s true to life.

[Graff B.]

https://gardenrails.org/forum/download/ ... bfb2c0bf0I

I actually have a junction fishplate, unfortunately it’s a bit to big.

[Soar Valley Light]

This is beginning to turn into a Pway 'house of horrors'!

Graff B's photo is of a fairly unusual exampleof a junstion plate, it's a 'junction lift' plate (the worst sort for breaking - even more stress risers due to the step in the top surface) designed to join worn rail to less worn or new rail, in this case it's for joining worn Flat bottom to less worn or new bullhead - a fairly rare circumstance.

TonyW's photo includes a Macbeth spike - I'm sure they were fine when new in the 1950's but 70 years on they are every Pway Engineers nightmare!

Track can be very interesting sometimes for those of us who don't get out much

Andrew

[Graff B.]

Thank you Andrew, I knew it was a junction fishplate but didn’t know it was an unusual type. I actually found it on a street near where I live, phoned a friend up and we put it in his car. How it ended up in the street I’ll never know. I find permanent way fascinating, I’ve got a proper book on the subject, written by pw engineers, maybe I need to get out more to!