Trestle bridge help
- GAP
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Trestle bridge help
I am asking for some advice on which users prefer for the edge of my trestle bridge.
Attached are 2 pictures showing the trestle 1 with an edge and 1 without an edge.
I am really looking for opinions to help make a decision so feel free to post an opinion.
The edge is nothing more that aesthetics so asking which one is preferred keeping in mind that this is a narrow gauge line.
Attached are 2 pictures showing the trestle 1 with an edge and 1 without an edge.
I am really looking for opinions to help make a decision so feel free to post an opinion.
The edge is nothing more that aesthetics so asking which one is preferred keeping in mind that this is a narrow gauge line.
Graeme
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Re: Trestle bridge help
I'm no expert, but I think the one without edging looks more realistic. My proviso would be that if you were intending to install railings, then the edging strips would be appropriate.
Rik
Rik
- gregh
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Re: Trestle bridge help
Wot Rik said!
Greg from downunder.
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Re: Trestle bridge help
In Australia or Victoria at least, track on trestles was generally ballasted and needed edge kerbs to keep ballast in place.
Grant.
Grant.
Re: Trestle bridge help
I'm with Grant. As a Victorian, a trestle without a deck looks unnatural........
That said, after checking some photos, Qld. tramways such as Innisfail and Mapleton had no deck on their trestles.
I would suggest though that a deck on a trestle would make the consequences of a derailment less damaging to locos and rolling stock.
Regards,
Graeme
That said, after checking some photos, Qld. tramways such as Innisfail and Mapleton had no deck on their trestles.
I would suggest though that a deck on a trestle would make the consequences of a derailment less damaging to locos and rolling stock.
Regards,
Graeme
Re: Trestle bridge help
Don't know about Aussie prototype practice, but sleepers hanging out over the edge of the support timbers looks wrong to me.
Philip
- Peter Butler
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Re: Trestle bridge help
Not sure about edges at all, but would there be refuges with handrails for workers to stand if trains came along during maintenance work?
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Re: Trestle bridge help
On Australian sugar cane railways sleeper hanging over the edge is common place, which is why I am in 2 minds about using an edge on the front.
I am seriously considering a walkway on the back of the trestle, so then I can justify a safety rail to catch any rolling stock that takes a topple and prevent the long drop to the ground.
In the future I plan to grow bushes up behind the trestle which will give a type of safety net but they will be a few years away.
A check rail as has been suggested before is also in the mix.
Graeme
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Re: Trestle bridge help
I have couple of bridges (not trestle), and have considered check rails, but unsure on how to fix them to proprietary track.
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Re: Trestle bridge help
To attach check rails I am thinking of gluing the rails to the top of the sleepers using a dab of a product called "Liquid Nails Landscape" under the foot of the rail, for added security I would use 4 guage 16mm brass screws to hold the rails in place.
https://www.bunnings.com.au/selleys-415 ... e_p1231856
I have found it on Ebay but postage will make it a bit more expensive compared to what I can get it for at my local hardware warehouse, but then again a tube will go a very long way and it can be used for all sorts of projects.
https://www.ebay.com.au/p/1675158535
I used it to build the low trestle, it is a bit like silicone in appearance and the way it is worked.
Graeme
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- gregh
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Re: Trestle bridge help
Cross section of open top trestle. From the book 'Bridges Down Under' by Don Fraser.
Sleepers definitely overhang the bearers.
Modeling is always a trade-off of accuracy vs practicality. Me - I go for practicality if it stops locos from falling to the ground. So even though handrails were not prototypical, I use them.
BTW, they aren't really 'sleepers' under the rails, but are longer and thicker timbers.
Sleepers definitely overhang the bearers.
Modeling is always a trade-off of accuracy vs practicality. Me - I go for practicality if it stops locos from falling to the ground. So even though handrails were not prototypical, I use them.
BTW, they aren't really 'sleepers' under the rails, but are longer and thicker timbers.
Greg from downunder.
The Sandstone & Termite's website: https://members.optusnet.com.au/satr/satr.htm
The Sandstone & Termite's website: https://members.optusnet.com.au/satr/satr.htm
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Re: Trestle bridge help
Thanks Greggregh wrote: ↑Mon Mar 30, 2020 2:55 am Cross section of open top trestle. From the book 'Bridges Down Under' by Don Fraser.
Sleepers definitely overhang the bearers.
open top trestle s.jpg
open top trestle pic s.jpg
Modeling is always a trade-off of accuracy vs practicality. Me - I go for practicality if it stops locos from falling to the ground. So even though handrails were not prototypical, I use them.
BTW, they aren't really 'sleepers' under the rails, but are longer and thicker timbers.
After a bit of thought and playing around I am going with a walkway at the back of the trestle, where it will be mostly out of sight and I have some justification for the handrails that I putting in to catch anything that decides to topple.
The handrails are 65mm galv nails posts with steel wire between them, similar design to what you used on your high trestle and the walkway is made from a treated pin fence paling so over time it will turn a neutral grey and blend into the background even further.
I am making the walkway 50mm wide because that is wider than the overhang on my widest loco a Bachmann 2-8-0 Consolidation and will give plenty of clearance.
Behind the trestle I will be planting a series of bushes that will hopefully break the fall of any toppling rolling stock when they grow into the space behind.
They are a tropical plant called acalypha and my neighbour has a hedge of them where I can get cuttings.
Graeme
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- GAP
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Re: Trestle bridge help
I added a walkway with an edge to the back of the high trestle it is not really noticeable unless viewed up close, over time it will fade to a neutral grey colour and will be even less noticable.
The edge was put in to justify the safety rail/fence that I put in to catch a possible topple.
The fence will be made from 65mm galv nails at a height of 45mm with a piece of steel wire looped around each nail.
I "glued" it together with landscape liquid nails and nailed with some flat head nails to hold it in place while it dried but eventually left the clamps on overnight to really let it cure to full strength.
Some pictures.
The edge was put in to justify the safety rail/fence that I put in to catch a possible topple.
The fence will be made from 65mm galv nails at a height of 45mm with a piece of steel wire looped around each nail.
I "glued" it together with landscape liquid nails and nailed with some flat head nails to hold it in place while it dried but eventually left the clamps on overnight to really let it cure to full strength.
Some pictures.
Graeme
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- gregh
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Re: Trestle bridge help
Looks good.
Instead of the galv wire, I used fishing line - seems less visible and doesn't have the kinks.
The grass under the trestle looks good too.
Instead of the galv wire, I used fishing line - seems less visible and doesn't have the kinks.
The grass under the trestle looks good too.
Greg from downunder.
The Sandstone & Termite's website: https://members.optusnet.com.au/satr/satr.htm
The Sandstone & Termite's website: https://members.optusnet.com.au/satr/satr.htm
Re: Trestle bridge help
Very impressed, still trying to find a UK outlet for landscape liquid nails, load of Australian and US outlets!
Re: Trestle bridge help
I doubt you'll find it here. However depending what you want to do with it, I'd try Everbuild Stixall, it works on most stone/concrete/brick surfaces and will even set underwater. It has thick but squashy silicone type texture and can be bought from the manufacturers ( Google "Everbuild" ) or Toolstation ( when they reopen!) or online via Ebay and probably others.
Philip
Re: Trestle bridge help
Philip, many thanks, I have tried Evode "Sticks like Turbo/Sh*t" honest that is the name, which works well (sometimes)philipy wrote: ↑Fri Apr 03, 2020 10:36 amI doubt you'll find it here. However depending what you want to do with it, I'd try Everbuild Stixall, it works on most stone/concrete/brick surfaces and will even set underwater. It has thick but squashy silicone type texture and can be bought from the manufacturers ( Google "Everbuild" ) or Toolstation ( when they reopen!) or online via Ebay and probably others.
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Re: Trestle bridge help
In bold sounds very similar except for the underwater bit.Jimmyb wrote: ↑Fri Apr 03, 2020 5:11 pmPhilip, many thanks, I have tried Evode "Sticks like Turbo/Sh*t" honest that is the name, which works well (sometimes)philipy wrote: ↑Fri Apr 03, 2020 10:36 amI doubt you'll find it here. However depending what you want to do with it, I'd try Everbuild Stixall, it works on most stone/concrete/brick surfaces and will even set underwater. It has thick but squashy silicone type texture and can be bought from the manufacturers ( Google "Everbuild" ) or Toolstation ( when they reopen!) or online via Ebay and probably others.
Graeme
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Re: Trestle bridge help
A bit of research and it seems these are a MS hybrid polymer formulation, lots of brands on the market, some are going to better than other, and with slightly different properties, it would seem even a single brand has multiple products, so I will dive into the market, and let you know what I think of the one I buy
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Re: Trestle bridge help
The wire safety barrier has been installed and clearance was tested, all is OK.
This is my widest loco and it clears the barrier I used it's measurements to set the width of the walkway.
This is my widest loco and it clears the barrier I used it's measurements to set the width of the walkway.
Graeme
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