Couplings

[ge_rik]

You may have seen in my HGLW thread that I've retained LGB couplings on my stock because:
a) they are cheap
b) they are reliable (I do a lot of shunting operations)

However,
c) they are unprotypical
d) they look naff

I've experimented with a range of different couplings but not yet found anything to replace them which are reliable and I can afford (I have around 75 items of rolling stock).

Does anyone have any suggestions as to:
e) ways of improving the appearance of LGB couplings
f) replacements which are as effective but won't require a remortgage of the house?

Rik

[IanC]

Rik,

That's a potential can of worms you've opened. My friend with a OO layout is going through exactly the same issue. Presently his trains operate with 4 or 5 different types of couplings and the jury's still out.

I shall watch with interest!

Ian

[tom_tom_go]

As you know Rik I use the Accucraft choppers modified with magnets for uncoupling and these look good and are reliable.

Although cost is a concern for you given the amount of rolling stock you have I think these are your best option without having to make something yourself and then being able to produce couplings to the same quality level consistently.

[River Lin]

Hi Rik.
I have fitted Slater's couplings to all my home built WHR bogie stock. They are not quite prototypical but close enough for me. They are middling in the price range at £10 for two that you put together yourself from brass castings. Just a hack saw, file and small hammer needed. They are sprung so look good when starting with a heavy train.

IMG_20180503_184844.jpg (67.6 KiB) Viewed 6729 times

D.

[ge_rik]

Nice looking couplings, but not sure I can run to the £750 needed to re-equip my stock with them.

Rik

[IanC]

I had a friend who designed and made his own couplings for OO gauge rolling stock. It was very similar to the LGB style, which to me resembles an inverted Hornby style one. It was adapted with some sort of magnetic counter balance which gave some form of automatic coupling and uncoupling. Being made of wire the pros and cons of your original post are still relevant Rik. However they were cheap and less obtrusive.

It occurs to me you might consider making your own style of LGB couplings which might give you compatability with existing stock while improving the look slightly?

Ian

[River Lin]

Good point

D.

[tom_tom_go]

Do all the stock need changing though or just the locos?

You could then just change a few wagons and they can then have a LGB coupler on one end to connect to existing stock?

[ge_rik]

I had a friend who designed and made his own couplings for OO gauge rolling stock. It was very similar to the LGB style, which to me resembles an inverted Hornby style one. It was adapted with some sort of magnetic counter balance which gave some form of automatic coupling and uncoupling. Being made of wire the pros and cons of your original post are still relevant Rik. However they were cheap and less obtrusive.

It occurs to me you might consider making your own style of LGB couplings which might give you compatability with existing stock while improving the look slightly?

Ian

Sounds interesting, Ian. The great advantage of the LGB coupling is being able to push long rakes without the risk of buffer lock. Just trying to figure out if that could be replicated with a smaller profile wire version.

Rik

[ge_rik]

Do all the stock need changing though or just the locos?

You could then just change a few wagons and they can then have a LGB coupler on one end to connect to existing stock?

Eventually, I'd like to convert all stock. I suppose one advantage of making an LGB compatible alternative is that I could do the replacements gradually.

Thinking-cap on ......... If I could somehow widen a centre buffer so they wouldn't lock when being pushed, then the hook and loop could become less obtrusive as they would only be used for pulling.

I think we're on to something.

Rik

[IanC]

I had a friend who designed and made his own couplings for OO gauge rolling stock. It was very similar to the LGB style, which to me resembles an inverted Hornby style one. It was adapted with some sort of magnetic counter balance which gave some form of automatic coupling and uncoupling. Being made of wire the pros and cons of your original post are still relevant Rik. However they were cheap and less obtrusive.

It occurs to me you might consider making your own style of LGB couplings which might give you compatability with existing stock while improving the look slightly?

Ian

Sounds interesting, Ian. The great advantage of the LGB coupling is being able to push long rakes without the risk of buffer lock. Just trying to figure out if that could be replicated with a smaller profile wire version.

Rik

Rik,

Yes, from memory the train was uncoupled over a magnet, then the coupling was designed in such a way that the wagons could then be propelled without re-coupling.

If you like I'll try and contact him to get the design details.

Ian

[tom_tom_go]

If you are going to play about with magnetic uncoupling use neodymium magnets, they are the nuts!

Hard drives have these types of magnets in them if you have any not being used.

[philipy]

An inverted version of the Slaters one but with the 'body' members slghtly wider apart to allow some sideplay for the hook, wouldn't be difficult to knock up and you could then make the face of the buffer as wide as you need to prevent buffer lock.

Edited to add: There is a beastie called a Dingham Coupler. I admit that I've no experience of it but it might help either directly or simply to give you ideas.
http://www.dingham.co.uk/7mm_coupler.htm

[IanC]

If you are going to play about with magnetic uncoupling use neodymium magnets, they are the nuts!

Hard drives have these types of magnets in them if you have any not being used.

Yes. I'd recommend the neodymium magnets too for magnetic uncoupling.

Ian

[11thHour]

Edited to add: There is a beastie called a Dingham Coupler. I admit that I've no experience of it but it might help either directly or simply to give you ideas.
http://www.dingham.co.uk/7mm_coupler.htm

But ou will need buffers to propel!
Tim

[ge_rik]

An inverted version of the Slaters one but with the 'body' members slghtly wider apart to allow some sideplay for the hook, wouldn't be difficult to knock up and you could then make the face of the buffer as wide as you need to prevent buffer lock.

Edited to add: There is a beastie called a Dingham Coupler. I admit that I've no experience of it but it might help either directly or simply to give you ideas.
http://www.dingham.co.uk/7mm_coupler.htm

They're very neat and quite cheap. Only problem is that I have a reverse loop on my railway which I use from time to time and so some stock would end up the wrong way round. Pity, I like the delay option for uncoupling.

Rik

[ge_rik]

I've been doing some experiments and made some progress on developing my own couplings. I decided that the easiest approach was to produce something which would be a direct replacement for LGB couplings - so same dimensions and same single screw fixing. At the moment, they are very much prototypes - I've ordered some brass rod/wire and more brass plate - oh and some chemical blackening solution.

At the moment, just a couple of paper-clips soldered to a bit of bent-up brass. I'll improve the fixing pedestal as well.

IMG_7561.JPG (110.1 KiB) Viewed 5755 times

.
The hooks engage in the same way as the original LGB versions.

IMG_7558.JPG (129.03 KiB) Viewed 5755 times

.
When pushing, the Binnie Carmarthen couplings bear against each other. I've checked them over the sharpest curves and there's no buffer lock.

IMG_7559.JPG (118.51 KiB) Viewed 5755 times

.
The beauty of this coupling is that it is compatible with LGB coupings and so I can replace them over a period of time and run original and new couplings together.

IMG_7563.JPG (121.97 KiB) Viewed 5755 times

.
I'll post more info once I've made up some 'proper' versions.

Rik

[tom_tom_go]

Agree with blackening these using chemicals rather than painting as it will not last.

I don't see how these uncouple though without having to bend the wire down?

[ge_rik]

I don't see how these uncouple though without having to bend the wire down?

Yes, that's right. I'm using the springiness of the wire to provide the auto coupling effect and then pressing the hooks down to uncouple. Same principle as LGB couplings. That's why the hook is soldered further back than the loop.

Rik

[bazzer42]

Having said keep the lgb coupling they look quite clumsy against your home made version. With blackening they will virtually disappear, clever!