airbrush

[cheshire]

Can anyone recommend a complete airbrush kit for about £40 please? Only to spray water based paints onto models. Many thanks.

[Big Jim]

Try this company,
https://www.everythingairbrush.com/airb ... -kits.html

A bit more than your budget but they do come with a compressor, which is very handy. Cans of propellant don't last and work out expensive.

A cheap and cheerful one such as this is another option.
https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p84074 ... wPT450Xztc


If you can afford it a Iwata NEO (Iwata made in China) is a very good general purpose air brush that can be used with both water based and solvent based paints.

[FWLR]

I got this one from them and it is just right for spraying kits because it came with two airbrush’s for £62, spacial offer at last year. But unfortunately they are out of stock at the moment and they are now at £82.99


https://www.everythingairbrush.com/as-1 ... r-kit.html

[Sleeper Agent]

I'm looking to buy an airbrush set at last as spray cans are proving a bit of a black hole since moving up to 16mm and G3, plus getting the shade you want isn't always easy. Anywho most people seem happy enough with Badgers over Neo and the like from what i've gathered around the forums. I recall the master Ian Rathbone uses a 150 double action for most jobs and a 200 single action for etching primer but the site in one of the links above is instead donning Anthem 155s and Patriot 105s. The excellent Right Track DVDs are a couple of years old now so am just wondering if these are essentially updates of those or are more style over substance, anyone have experience with this new line?

http://www.badger-airbrush.co.uk/airbrushes.html

[philipy]

Sorry can't help with new models, my Badger is about 30 years old and still going strong with pretty much anything I put through it. It's so much of a faff to clean up all the time though, that I don't use it much these days, rattle cans and paint brushes are so much easier.

[GTB]

Anywho most people seem happy enough with Badgers over Neo and the like from what i've gathered around the forums. I recall the master Ian Rathbone uses a 150 double action for most jobs and a 200 single action for etching primer but the site in one of the links above is instead donning Anthem 155s and Patriot 105s.

Spray cans of paint are an invention of the devil.........

This website has reviews of most of the common name brand airbrushes, which I found useful a while back when I was looking for a new airbrush and considering one of the newer Badger models.

https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/

I only use enamel paints, so cleaning is less of an issue than with Acrylics.

I used a Badger 200 airbrush for about 30 yrs. I fitted it with a colour cup, as I found that easier to clean than a paint jar. Still have it and it still works, but it's a bit like Grandpa's axe, as everything except the body has been replaced over the years.

Just before I changed scale, I replaced the 200 with a 200G. Even easier to clean, but the paint capacity is too small for most garden scale work.

I then used a chinese clone of an Iwata airbrush , as it had a large paint cup suitable for large models. It gave good results, but required constant cleaning and it arrived around the time Humbrol lost the plot, which made the problems worse.

I now use Revell paints and a Badger 100LG which gives me no trouble, just like it's other Badger predecessors. It also uses a lot of the same spare parts.

What you have to be careful of is the little chinese airbrush compressors. My old Badger compressor is still going strong after 40 odd years, but it is noisy and runs hot when used for long sessions. I went through two chinese ones in about 5 yrs when I was using the chinese airbrush. Both were very quiet, but the piston seals wore out and you can't get spare parts. They also didn't have the capacity to drive a Badger airbrush properly, as Badgers use more air and need a compressor that can pump out at least 30 l/min.

I now use a small 1HP workshop compressor. It's noisy enough to wake the dead when it starts up, but it puts out 60l/min and has no problem keeping up with any airbrush I own. The old Badger compressor is now kept in reserve and used mostly for air testing locos.

Regards,
Graeme

[IanC]

Aldi or Lidl are currently selling complete kits for around £60 I believe. For a lot of garden railway applications an airbrush is too small. For detail work the usual 0.35 nozzle is ok. For larger areas 0.5 is better.

You do tend to get what you pay for. I have four at the moment, the trusty Badger 200, an Iwata CS, a Clarke and a Chinese one, but I really could do with a 0.5 airbrush now for a lot of jobs.

The quality of the Chinese stuff is variable and there are no spares (at least I've never seen any). Starter sets are good. The best way to master airbrushing is practice, practice and more practice. There is a very good book by George Dent on Airbrushing for Railway Modellers. It is aimed at the smaller scales but still has a lot of very useful information.

Besides practice the other key is to clean the airbrush thoroughly after use. To work at it's best an airbrush most be spotlessly clean. Clean it after us,e before putting it away.

Mixing the paint is crutial to avoid clogging. There are all sorts of recommended ratios of paint to thinner. I mix by eye, aiming for the consistency and characteristics of milk (remember how milk runs down the inside of the bottles it used to come in?). Spray slowly and build up thin coats.

I use both enamels and acrylics. I found acrylic harder to master at first due to the rapid drying time, but after finding a home brew for acrylic thinner, which includes a flow improver and retarder I have painted quite a few items with no major issues.

I am happy to share more of my experiences if anyone wants help.

Ian

[Big Jim]

Yes please Ian.

[ge_rik]

Spray cans of paint are an invention of the devil.........

I'm intrigued by that statement, Graeme.

I have toyed with the idea of investing in an airbush for years but not committed myself. Each time I investigate it, following the guidance given by those in the know, the costs seem to escalate way outside my justifiable price range.

"Don't waste money on a cheap airbrush!" we are advised. "Don't buy a cheap compressor!" "Make sure you have a moisture trap!" "Make sure your compressor has an air tank, the bigger, the better!" "One airbrush is not enough, you must have at least two!" "Don't buy cheap paint!" "You must use the most expensive thinners!" "You have to keep everything scrupulously clean." " Don't expect it to work the first time, you must spend hours practising." "A dual action aibrush is the best but takes hours to master." "Spare parts are impossible to find so you need to buy a new airbrush every couple of years." "Even expensive compressors need replacing every couple of years."

By contrast, yesterday, it took me 20 mins to drive to my local Halfords. I bought a large aerosol of primer and a small rattle can of Rover Brooklands Green. After 2 minutes of shaking the can, I got the perfect mix of paint and thinners. Within a couple of hours I had painted one wagon and applied primer and a couple of base coats to a loco. To clean the nozzles, I inverted the cans and pressed - but I do have some spare nozzles (£3.95 for 5 inc postage) just in case.

Now I'm sure it's possible to get an absolutely wonderful finish with a really good (expensive) airbrush and compressor system, but I just cannot justify that sort investment to the keeper of the household purse (or my conscience) when I have access to a much cheaper and it seems to me, equally effective, alternative.

I realise I am being provocative by challenging an accepted shibboleth, but I am honestly interested in understanding what economically justifiable advantages there are in abandonning my rattle cans.

Rik

[Lonsdaler]

As I have already discussed with IanC, I shall be sticking to my 'hairbrush' and rattle cans
And I told you a post on 'how to airbrush' would be well received, Ian!

[FWLR]

Well I have had an airbrush now for over 10 years and I find them ok, but, this is a big BUT….the hassle of getting the brush set up and then cleaning it throughly is hardly worth the expense guys.

Airbrushes are mainly used by professionals, like nail artistes and such like, the smaller ones are good, no matter which one or type you buy. I have had some that were over £200 and the one now I have which cost just under £60, (I think)

I have just started to use Rattle cans and I find them to be ok for general to use on the bigger jobs, like building and rolling stock, but for the smaller stuff, airbrushes wins hands down.

They both have their uses and you take your choice on which to use, but for most spending over £80 is not worth the messing about, you get just pretty much the same result from the cheaper models and the rattle cans.

[GTB]

Spray cans of paint are an invention of the devil.........

I'm intrigued by that statement, Graeme.

I have two issues with the things.......

1. There is little to no volume control, they are on, or they are off. Even if you manage to feather the valve as you spray, the droplet size goes up as the flow rate goes down.

2. I have joint problems and the joints in my index finger lock up when I use paint spray cans. The type of valve almost always used for paint cans requires more force than I can manage. I don't have the same problem with the valves used for fly spray cans and other products, but the crude design used for paints is beyond me.

I sometimes use spray cans of clear finish on cabinet making projects, when I can't be bothered bothered rubbing down multiple coats applied with a brush and waiting for each coat to harden enough to rub down, but it takes a couple of days for my index finger to recover.

When I first started scratchbuilding in my teens, I didn't have the money for an airbrush and of necessity I learnt to use a brush. I still prefer using brushes, but the work required to get a decent finish on complex models isn't worth it and they require as much time to clean properly as an airbrush.

As always, it comes down to what works for you..........

Regards,
Graeme

[BorisSpencer]

Graeme,
Would one of these be of use? at less than a fiver worth a punt.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Caxmtu-Aerosol ... an trigger

[IanC]

If I can get a bit of spare time I'll post some more hints and tips about airbrushing. All the comments up to now have been valid. The bottom line is it has it's uses, but is not an easy tool to master. Indeed depending on the job in hand I will use brushes or aerosols in preference to an airbrush. Horses for courses.

Ian

[Sleeper Agent]

Spray cans of paint are an invention of the devil.........

I'm intrigued by that statement, Graeme.

Mick Bonwick putting his fingers into a holy cross when I mentioned aerosols at the Pendon will always tickle me I highly recommend the day courses to anyone afraid to commit to an airbrush, as bar the paints themselves and ideally some good hand brushes everything is set up for you. Money was a bit tight then but in retrospect I regret not buying an airbrush set initially after the course but hand brushing and spray cans have always been enough to keep me going just about and now i've forgotten half of what I picked up. Rik's comment about the endless pitfalls listed in reviews is part of why i've been hesitant to commit to buying one over the other since but I've got my eye on a Badger kit currently, though there's no real rush until Guildex in just over a month's time or else I'll have to pay postage on Phoenix Precision's products. Even after I get it I know i'll still buy spray cans as well due to their convenience but the fact that I don't live too near any shops that sell Halford and Tamiya cans is a hindrance and as I mentioned previously the right shade being available is hit and miss even if bulk buying online to cut down on additional courier/postage costs is practical.
My issue is probably best illustrated here

I had three of these now widened Lynton & Barnstable wagons ready for repainting but forgetting how hopelessly translucent dark red is failed to uniformly cover even one with a Tamiya spray can. In retrospect I definitely should of sprayed a base coat on first as well as remove the transfers (subtle as they looked) but the cost of getting all these cans and being sure I wasn't going to run short is still there. For a one off such as an engine or the lesser detailed wooden truck next to the bogie above cans and hand brushing are still quite valid choices in my opinion but for a detailed rake where following the grain is less easy or where fine control is ideal there's little denying the spray gun has the advantage even with clean up time.

There is a very good book by George Dent on Airbrushing for Railway Modellers. It is aimed at the smaller scales but still has a lot of very useful information.

Thank you Ian and eBay I'll give it and Rathbone's book 'A MODELLER'S HANDBOOK OF PAINTING AND LINING' I just bought also a flick through in time for the upcoming events to make sure i'm stocked up with everything. This post is meandering a bit now so i'll finish by saying I've read all of the above and thanks to everyone, hopefully I'll have some half decent results to post in September.

Steve

[GTB]

Would one of these be of use? at less than a fiver worth a punt.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Caxmtu-Aerosol ... an trigger

That one isn't available here and like a lot of hardware items Amazon won't post it to Oz. The ones that are available locally are fairly useless.

The few spray can products I use come with decent valves and I manage quite well without using paint spray cans.........

Graeme

[FWLR]

Unless you are manufacturing rolling stock or anything else for that matter, an airbrush kit is a lot of money to pay for something that won’t be used on a regular basis. My advice is, unless you really need to get an airbrush I would save my money and buy something else.

There is of course not just the airbrush kit to buy, you will also need to have a spray booth and they are not cheap, unless you make your own, which I did. But even counting for that, it can work out paying for something else that ok, (which you should use when you use a rattle can as well) can take up a lot of room.

Has for the original post, you cant get an airbrush kit for £40. The cheaper kits don’t have airbrushes that you can use with solvent based paints, because they have internal rubber seals.

If you must and need to get one, then this is a good starter kit to buy.

https://www.everythingairbrush.com/airb ... r-kit.html

This is the kit I started with and it is very good for the money, it had three needles and three bigger nozzles with it. I don’t know if it comes with them now though.

You can also get loads of information off Youtube about how to use an airbrush, which can lead you to using an airbrush properly. Most of them are very good and you can get to find out what needles and nozzles you would use for different jobs.

PS. You don’t need to have a Youtube account to watch videos…….

[Big Jim]

Just to wade into the Airbrush vs Rattlecan debate.

I do tend to use an airbrush.
I like the fact that you can carry a good range of colours without needing a huge space to store them and you can mix your own. While I agree that it can be a bit of a faff cleaning up after each use I don't find this too much of a bother. The smaller amount of overspray and the more pleasant conditions in the workshop that come from using acrylics is also most welcome.

I tend to use a rattle can for priming and I do keep a tin or two of other well used colours to hand. If I am spraying a large amount of any colour (eg a rake of coaches or wagons) again it would be a rattle can I would use. One down side of rattle cans is that there is good and bad out there and IMHO there is a huge difference in colours and finish between batches with some manufactures. The stuff sold by Halfords is pretty good, others less so. The pressure of an aerosol can also vary over time. A mate of mine who sprays cars for a living is of the opinion that it is only the middle two-thirds of the can that is any good. Too much pressure - Just Right - Too little pressure.

[IanC]

There are good and bad points to using an airbrush, but one important consideration not mentioned so far is to use a mask. A proper respirator, not one of those cheap dust masks. Depending on what you are spraying some of the paint vapours are carcinogenic. Change the filters regularly and certainly if you can smell paint when wearing the mask. Mine was bought along time ago, but a quick search reveals they can be bought from £15-£20 upwards. Money well spent. Don't take chances with health.

There will be people who just don't get on with airbrushes. The biggest advantage for me is the control they offer. I used a rattle can to spray a locomotive tank side which needed a touch up after removing some superglued nameplates which damaged the existing paint work. I used a rattle can etch primer but It was far too thick. Thinning it and applying it with an airbrush was 100% better. Time spent including masking, 30 minutes with a rattle can. Almost 2 hours with an airbrush. For me the results justified the time and effort. I will rub down the side with the thick layer and redo it with the airbrush.

Big jim is right. There is much less overspray.

Ian

[tom_tom_go]

I have never felt the need to look into painting with an airbrush as narrow gauge at least from what I have looked at was never in an 'airbrushed' state. I like locos and rolling stock to used and not fit for display as shelf queens.