Accucraft 7/8ths Ragleth 'Baldrig'

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MDLR
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Post by MDLR » Sun Dec 07, 2014 10:34 pm

It's interesting that it looks totally different to mine...............


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............... which looks a litte "Welsh Highland" hauling 16mm scale stock...........


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Brian L Dominic
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Post by GTB » Mon Dec 08, 2014 7:57 am

tom_tom_go:106236 wrote: How do others solder really fine parts so it looks like as if it was simply glued into place?
Looks good, I can't see any excess solder...... ;)

When attaching small parts, I tin both parts first, put a bit of liquid flux in the joint and heat until I see any excess solder squeeze out of the joint. If possible, heat from the back. When it cools down I clean off any excess solder with a fibreglass brush (then pick the bits of glass out of my fingers with fine tweezers :roll: ).

it also helps in large scale to have a soldering iron that can generate a decent amount of heat. Mine is a 100W soldering station and with a 3mm chisel tip I can solder seams in 0.8mm brass bodywork with that. I had one person argue with me that you can do everything you need with a 25W iron. I can only assume he had never tried soldering a garden scale size body together.....

Regards,
Graeme

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Chris Cairns
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Post by Chris Cairns » Thu Dec 11, 2014 10:39 pm

Hopefully the Help & Advice theatres that were video'd at this year's Peterborough show will make it onto a 16mm NGM DVD at some point (MDLR?). I attended the Soldering theatre which included how to fit those small parts - the body kit being used in the demonstration was Brian's (MDLR).

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Post by MDLR » Thu Dec 11, 2014 10:53 pm

The editing is ongoing as I type this - there was an awful lot to edit!

Now, a question for all you Accucraft owners. I'm an Accucraft virgin - always ran Roundhouse and Mamod in the past. With a Mamod, you watch it like a hawk. With a Roundhouse, if you start off with full gas and water, the gas runs out first with just a little water left in the boiler. I find that if I do this with the Baldrig, there's only about a syringe-and-a-bit of water used - I can happily get away with two fillings of gas without the water running dry. Is this to be expected?
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Post by tom_tom_go » Sun Dec 14, 2014 2:12 pm

This is my first Accucraft as well, however, I got into live steaming because of seeing Accucraft 0-4-0's run at a nearby garden railway that I was invited to see once I had joined the association.

The old boy then use to get pressure up first then fill up the gas again to get a longer run.

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Post by St.Michael » Sun Dec 14, 2014 6:13 pm

I really enjoy following your work... and wonder if something like that could be my next steamloco-project, after the O&K loco ( two or three years from now... :( Time is a strange thing )

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Post by Big Jim » Sun Dec 14, 2014 7:24 pm

Very nice, I think that gas control mod is very nice and makes a huge difference to the cab area. Looking forwards to seeing it finished.
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Post by tom_tom_go » Fri Mar 20, 2015 4:21 pm

I have fitted TTD steam & gas valves, makes a big difference:

http://www.thetraindepartment.com/ttd-upgrade-valves/

The gas is very easy to adjust now and the regulator has much finer control.

Cheap upgrades, including shipping (from the US) was under £25.00

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Post by Chris Cairns » Mon Mar 23, 2015 7:07 pm

I've fitted a TD77 replacement steam valve to my Ragleth (yet to test it), with one to fit to my Edrig at some point.

A fellow 16mm NGM WoSG member was telling me recently that the TD75 Gas Valve is currently not available for the Edrig.

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Post by kandnwlr » Mon Mar 23, 2015 9:24 pm

MDLR:106240 wrote:It's interesting that it looks totally different to mine...............


............... which looks a litte "Welsh Highland" hauling 16mm scale stock...........

Now that looks very nice too :D

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Post by kandnwlr » Mon Mar 23, 2015 9:26 pm

tom_tom_go:106236 wrote:

I am using this guide for soft soldering:

http://www.steves-workshop.co.uk/tips/s ... gindex.htm
Thanks very much for the link.

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Post by tom_tom_go » Sun May 24, 2015 5:52 pm

Dome and boiler bands now painted:

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I think the body will go nicely with the red boiler bands once lined with red.

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Post by tom_tom_go » Thu May 28, 2015 6:36 pm

Time for R/C:

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As I have replaced the regulator for one of TTD versions it should not take much effort to move it so the micro servo should be sufficient.  Hopefully, I can get away with just using servo tape to attach the servo to the side of the frame.

I will drill a hole through the foot plate and modify the existing Accucraft regulator handle to take a linkage rod connector.  

Giving Ripmax a go this time servo wise as this was cheaper than the Hitec equivalent and even has metal gears.

Safety valve bonnet on order from DJB as well.

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Post by Chris Cairns » Sat May 30, 2015 7:10 pm

This is progressing well Tom.

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Post by tom_tom_go » Tue Nov 17, 2015 8:12 pm

Progressing with the body kit although I am still trying to perfect my soldering skills:

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The mini blow torch I bought does not get the solder hot enough and cuts out so I have gone back to the larger Go-Gas torch although having to be careful not to get everything too hot.

Having a wet rag to hand to cool parts after soldering seems to help.

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Post by tom_tom_go » Sat Mar 19, 2016 5:00 pm

I think I am finally happy with all the R/C gear.

The charge socket is flat against the body so you cannot see it:
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The regulator servo along with the receiver, battery pack and on/off/charge switch is all hidden below (took a while to figure out the positioning of components, however, nothing touches the loco body and it's been fine during testing with no loss of signal/overheating:
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Post by St.Michael » Sun Mar 20, 2016 7:09 am

Thank you for your photoseries. I find it most interesting (and tempting) :D :shock: :D :shock: :D

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