The sleeper bed is in
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Max,James from Devon:117114 wrote:Very smart looking trackwork, great work indeed. I love the choice of plants too, thats going to get better and better as they mature.
James is absolutely right. This is super work and has enormous potential. It was definitely worth the wait for the photos!
Andrew
"Smith! Why do you only come to work four days a week?
"'cause I can't manage on three gaffer!"
"'cause I can't manage on three gaffer!"
Iam pretty pleased with what I've done so far. Being built up from nothing to putting in the sleeper bed, to slowly landscaping the area, I've enjoyed it every step of the way. Just need more track, some more buildings, water fall to put in, about two ton of top soil and I am there. And the final stage will be to ballast the track, what can be seen in pictures is just experimental attempts at ballasting. Thank you all for the encouraging comments.
Max
Very impressive, Nothing wrong with doing things on the cheap. I am a great fan of the noble art of scrounging and skip diving should be an Olympic sport.
Brian
I too used to see 5' 6'' high pink rabbits, but after I changed from drinking Brasso to drinking Domestos it all stopped, I just went clean round the bend.
Very impressive, Nothing wrong with doing things on the cheap. I am a great fan of the noble art of scrounging and skip diving should be an Olympic sport.
Brian
I too used to see 5' 6'' high pink rabbits, but after I changed from drinking Brasso to drinking Domestos it all stopped, I just went clean round the bend.
If at first you don't succeed, use a bigger hammer!
I am good for top soil , I am lucky enough to work in the waste and aggregate industry , I've a good surply of it! Thank you for the offer though.🙂stoker:117148 wrote:I have topsoil and a shovel,do you have a trailer or van?mightymax:117141 wrote: ......about two ton of top soil and I am there.....
(located in N Norfolk)
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Hi Noel,
I've done a bit of research into this (but only a bit). Standard gauge railways are nominally 6' between back edges of the nearest rails of adjacent roads. Narrow gauge trains are not scaled down version of their standard gauge cousin. They are smaller, yes, but their loading gauge is larger in relation to the gauge. As a result of this the overhang of rolling stock beyond the rail is not much different to standard gauge, this means that the 'six foot' seems to remain about six feet! The L&B certainly seemed to conform to this. In some cases though the space was much greater, the smaller gauge meant more land was available I image.
In our gardens we have much more space than would be the case on an indoor model railway but space is still at a premium as we continue to try and squeeze the proverbial quart into a pint pot. As such the six feet space seems a sensible choice. Scaling this up means that if you are working in 16mm to the foot and space your roads with a dimension of 96mm between the outside edge of the rails you should have reasonable clearance.
The bottom line to all this though is that everything depends on the scale you are working in and the size of the stock used on your railway. The most important this is to have a trial run. Set up a couple of parallel pieces of track with an item of you widest stock sitting on each road, move the track out until you are happy with the clearance between the vehicles. Make sure you allow room for dynamic movement, our trains can 'rock and roll' alarmingly sometimes! Once happy remove the rolling stock and measure the distance between the tow adjacent rails - Bob's your uncle!
Happy modelling,
Andrew
I've done a bit of research into this (but only a bit). Standard gauge railways are nominally 6' between back edges of the nearest rails of adjacent roads. Narrow gauge trains are not scaled down version of their standard gauge cousin. They are smaller, yes, but their loading gauge is larger in relation to the gauge. As a result of this the overhang of rolling stock beyond the rail is not much different to standard gauge, this means that the 'six foot' seems to remain about six feet! The L&B certainly seemed to conform to this. In some cases though the space was much greater, the smaller gauge meant more land was available I image.
In our gardens we have much more space than would be the case on an indoor model railway but space is still at a premium as we continue to try and squeeze the proverbial quart into a pint pot. As such the six feet space seems a sensible choice. Scaling this up means that if you are working in 16mm to the foot and space your roads with a dimension of 96mm between the outside edge of the rails you should have reasonable clearance.
The bottom line to all this though is that everything depends on the scale you are working in and the size of the stock used on your railway. The most important this is to have a trial run. Set up a couple of parallel pieces of track with an item of you widest stock sitting on each road, move the track out until you are happy with the clearance between the vehicles. Make sure you allow room for dynamic movement, our trains can 'rock and roll' alarmingly sometimes! Once happy remove the rolling stock and measure the distance between the tow adjacent rails - Bob's your uncle!
Happy modelling,
Andrew
"Smith! Why do you only come to work four days a week?
"'cause I can't manage on three gaffer!"
"'cause I can't manage on three gaffer!"
hi Noel , to be honest I am a complete and total amateur and first time builder at garden railways . The spacing in between is about one and half inch, approximately. Everything was kind of unplanned and just laid down onto blocks.when I put a coach on the track there is more than enough room for a loco to pass. Thanks.NoelR:117206 wrote:This is really impressive.
I have a new garden layout myself which I will be developing more this year.
Can I ask what spacing you use between parallel runs of track?
I am going to introduce sidings and run-around loop type arrangement to mine and am wondering what a good track spacing is.
Noel.
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