CDR Railcar No. 10

[ge_rik]

OK - A bit more progress today on this build...

I had to modify the chassis to make it fit over the motor block. It was also a non obtrusive way for me to develop my brass soldering skills, which are still very rudimentary.

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I took a while on the dry run of the cab body. I wanted to find a way of fitting three 18650 li-ion cells into it. Although there would be plenty of room in the passenger compartment, I felt the cab should be where the main electrics should be located. I could only fit two cells in the engine compartment but .....

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..... after consulting plans and photos, I noticed there was an additional engine cover in the cab, which by happy coincidence was exactly the right size to accommodate the extra cell. A bit of hacking about was necessary but I can now squeeze three cells in.

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I needed to make an engine cover which wasn't part of the original kit, but I have the satisfaction that it is prototypical.

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It means I won't be able to model the railcar with the engine compartment open but I will need to construct another railcar to partner this one, so maybe that one will have an uncovered engine!.

It's beginning to take shape.

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It's very much a steep learning curve for me. One thing I have discovered is that melted solder runs downhill ...... so propping the model up to get the next seam angled the right way makes life a lot easier. I've also learned that it would be a lot easier if I had another hand - and that wearing a glove on the left hand does make life easier when things get a bit hot!

Rik

[Peter Butler]

Great start Rik, well done. As you progress your skills will improve and you might go back to re-do something you are not quite sure about. One advantage of solder over adhesives is that it can easily be undone.

[LNR]

Going well Rik, and another skill your learning due to garden railways.
Grant.

[Jimmyb]

Rik, I built a couple of 0 gauge models, and found using different temperature solders and a temperature controlled iron helps when adding parts to an assembly, i.e. the cooler solder and lower temperature does not melt the main assembly.

[Tropic Blunder]

That came together quick! Looking Excellent Rick, there is something about the crispness of brass thats often impossible to obtain with other modelling materials.

You are of course right Graeme, I haven't got any contacts at Daylesford so I wont be making the trek up there just for that, ill put a 6L3 in it as I just found a few photos from last time we did work on the VA.

Seems the main difference between the L3 and LW is in the location of the fuel pump and the front timing case thats quite different. It also has a shaft running out of the front timing cover for the Dynamo which is mounted towards the back of the motor on the LH side.

[ge_rik]

Rik, I built a couple of 0 gauge models, and found using different temperature solders and a temperature controlled iron helps when adding parts to an assembly, i.e. the cooler solder and lower temperature does not melt the main assembly.

Thanks Jimmy
I've got a 100W iron but my temperature controlled iron is only 48W. Not sure if it will handle some of the bigger chunks of metal but maybe they will dissipate the heat quickly enough for it not to be a problem

Rik

[Jimmyb]

Rik, I used a 80 watt for the large items, my temperature controlled iron is 50 watts, so similar, and for low melt solder worked okay.

[GTB]

I've also learned that it would be a lot easier if I had another hand - and that wearing a glove on the left hand does make life easier when things get a bit hot!

You haven't been mucking around on this job......

The learning curve may be steep, but it flattens quickly with practice. You seem to be getting the knack which will build your confidence.

Unfortunately the blind watchmaker didn't consider soldering when doing the initial design work. I've got some small toolmakers clamps and some miniature sash clamps. I sometimes use those and blocks of wood to hold parts in alignment so I can solder the joint. Mine are brass, so if I don't want them to act as a heatsink I use off-cuts of thin ply to insulate the clamp from the part.

Tinning parts first and using liquid flux helps with making neat joints. You don't need much solder in a joint as the stuff is weak, so large fillets don't make the joint any stronger. It's the solder in the joint that does the work.

I find gloves thick enough to act as insulation are clumsy and if I need to hold something close to where I'm soldering, I use a piece of ply or a block of wood between me and the metal. My soldering bench has a small pile of scorched wooden blocks and bits of ply for just that purpose.

I was taught basic glassblowing in my chemistry course, but have never developed the asbestos fingers of a professional glass blower. A TA in my lab had been a glassblower and could pick up hot glassware that I wouldn't touch with welding gloves.

Regards,
Graeme

[ge_rik]

On more familiar territory today. Firstly, I tackled the interior detailing of the cab - using plasticard and a few other bits and pieces.

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The driver needed minor surgery to give the impression he was actually in control.

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The seat has been lowered since this photo was taken, but all the bits seem to fit OK and are based on a photo of the interior of the cab so I think they are in the right places.

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The other job was soldering up and fitting the electrics (a bit blurry but you get the gist)

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These are then covered by the fuel tank which is actually in the cab near the driver. Let's hope he doesn't like a smoke whilst on duty!

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Hopefully, working on the roof tomorrow and then the cab will b mostly (structurally) finished.


Rik

[ge_rik]

Latest update
The cab section is almost finished structurally. I've installed all the electrics including a soundcard and given her a test run (video to follow). As you can see, she has been through the paintshop for a coat of primer.

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There is still plenty more to do. The roof and bonnet are only loose fits at the moment. The bonnet holds the batteries and the roof holds the electronics, which is still a bit of a bird's nest.

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There's also a fair bit of filling and rubbing-down to be done before applying the final livery. The interior of the cab is more or less finished except for glazing and internal window frames and bars.

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She's still a little bit stiff legged when she runs but I'm hoping a bit of tweaking will sort that out. The good news is that the electrics work as they are supposed to and my handiwork doesn't look too disreputable.

Rik

[Peter Butler]

That's come together really well Rik, especially as you had no instructions. It will look right at home on your line too.

[ge_rik]

Video of her first test run .....


Rik

[philipy]

Be very nice once you've sorted that tight spot. Windy up your way today, obviously.

[Puddlejumper]

Looking (& sounding) good, good work

[LNR]

Coming together well Rik. Looks kind of cute on its own.
Grant.

[ge_rik]

Coming together well Rik. Looks kind of cute on its own.
Grant.

Thanks Grant.
I was thinking of making interchangeable bodies for it - the railcar passenger compartment as supplied and a railtruck body which looks like it will fit the same tractor unit.

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Rik

[philipy]

Funnily enough, when I saw it running in your video yesterday I thought it looked more like a pickup than a railcar. This picture is exactly the sort of thing I was thinking of.

[Jimmyb]

Rik, you truly are inspirational

[gregh]

It's amazing how you fit everything in. It's nice looking model - quite unusual with the coupled wheels (to me anyway).
I can see the slight 'binding' as it moves. If you can't open out the conrod holes maybe the pins can be made a bit smaller?

The idle sound is beautiful. (but a little less good when running - sorry). Anyway I always say 'any sound is better than none.'

[LNR]

a railtruck body which looks like it will fit the same tractor unit.

Wow!! that looks the business. Perfect match.
Grant.