Revamping the stream

[philipy]

I'm using the source mentioned in FBGR's thread - http://www.foamboardonline.co.uk/5mm_Fo ... oam_PVC_A3

They have a special offer going at the moment; ten A3 sheets of 5mm PVC board for £10. A heck o a lot cheaper than plasticard. I'm using 5mm board for all parts.

I can confirm it's good stuff. I've used it for my new station building and I ordered some more only yesterday. The special offer has changed...it's now only £9 for ten sheets!

[Big Jim]

A very nice raging torrent.
16mm scale trout next?

[FWLR]

Thanks Rik and Phillip, just ordered 2 packs.

[ge_rik]

Done a bit more work on the mill building. Now completed the walls for the ends and the rear of the building. I'm finding working with foamboard to be really rewarding. Impressing the brickwork, although a bit tedious, is very therapeutic and satisfying as the courses can be tailored.

Note: There is no need for brickwork on the lower half of the rear as it backs on to a raised siding. Similarly, on one side will be a leanto.

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Rik

[ge_rik]

That looks great Rik.

How long did that side take?

Hi Tom
I timed myself completing the rear wall. It took a total of 2h 27m.

• Marking-up = 1h 33m
  Cutting out = 12m
  Horizontal scribing = 14m
  Vertical impressing = 28m

I've speeded up since the first wall. Also, this wall has around half covered in bricks, so add another half hour or so for the additional scribing and impressing Making around 3h in total for one wall.

Rik

[tom_tom_go]

Well done Rik, I am very impressed and tempted to try this myself now the evenings are starting to draw in.

[bazzer42]

Looking good Rik. it is lovely stuff to use and I will be using my stocks as a base for some shed building this winter although probably clad with wood this time. I found brick work taxing but worth the effort. How are you mortaring when you paint? I used to use red oxide car spray and then paint a coat of exterior grey quickly wiped off that toned down the red and left nice grey mortar joints.

[ge_rik]

Looking good Rik. it is lovely stuff to use and I will be using my stocks as a base for some shed building this winter although probably clad with wood this time. I found brick work taxing but worth the effort. How are you mortaring when you paint? I used to use red oxide car spray and then paint a coat of exterior grey quickly wiped off that toned down the red and left nice grey mortar joints.

Not decided yet. I had considered the opposite to your suggestion -ie slopping a yellowy grey mix on then wiping it off so it remains in the mortar courses and then using a sponge to dab on the brick colour. Then pick out some indivdual bricks in slight variations of the brick colour.

I'll have to do some experimenting to see which approach works the best.

Rik

[bazzer42]

have to admit my brick colour was pretty uniform and could have done with some variation in colours.

[Peter Butler]

When I used the moulded brick pattern plastic sheet I first sprayed everything with grey plastic primer then, when dry, used a dry-brush method of painting across the bricks diagonally with two or three red/brown colours to give variation. The dry brush has enough paint to leave a mark but not enough paint to flood into the mortar joins, also the diagonal strokes avoid the same problem.

[ge_rik]

When I used the moulded brick pattern plastic sheet I first sprayed everything with grey plastic primer then, when dry, used a dry-brush method of painting across the bricks diagonally with two or three red/brown colours to give variation. The dry brush has enough paint to leave a mark but not enough paint to flood into the mortar joins, also the diagonal strokes avoid the same problem.

Thanks Peter. That's another idea to try out.
Just tiling (or slating) the roof at the moment. Even using the strip approach (which probably owes its origins to John Ahern), it's quite laborious but, like the brickwork, rewarding.

Rik

[ge_rik]

A little while since I posted about progress with the mill building. This is partly because I ran out of 1.5mm plasticard for the slates but mainly because I started the build while we were on holiday in France (you mean, you don't you take a modelling project away on holiday with you!?) and I had to wait until we got back before I could assemble the prefabricated pieces. I somehow felt that the completed building would not fit into my hand luggage.

Anyway, have managed a crack on a bit further with it ...........

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Yes, the outbuilding is deliberately skewed, to fit into the available space
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And there's no need for brickwork on the lower section as it abuts to the raised siding
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As you can see, I still have a fair bit to do. I'm working on the windows at present.

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I was wondering how to make the frames for those small panes when I came across this in my local pound shop.
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Rik

[Peter Butler]

Good old Pound Shop to the rescue again! I love the idea of making something so obscure into something really useful.... top marks for ingenuity.
The building looks amazing, even the skewed outbuilding helps with the overall effect of realism.
Just brilliant!

[ge_rik]

Thanks Peter. These things always seem to take longer than I envisage when I start them, but I do like finding a solution to a build problem by repurposing something.

Rik

[tom_tom_go]

Well done Rik, you are a man of patience.

[LNR]

Echoing what Peter said. Nine out of ten people would only see a plastic raquet. More lateral thinking.
And great work on the mill by the way.
Grant.

[pandsrowe]

What adhesive will you be using on these pound shop "windows"? In my experience these soft plastics which I suspect they are made from, don't take too kindly to the type of adhesive that us modellers are likely to use.
As usual great modeĺling by the way.

[FWLR]

Great build of your Mill and what a brilliant use of a £, the poundshop is going to hit soon lol.

[ge_rik]

Thanks folks.
The water mills in this area seem to have been built on a similar design. Some have plain windows but a couple have small-paned windows.

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I've assumed that the small-paned windows are more likely to be original so set myself the challenge of finding a cheap way of representing them. Bit of a fiddle slicing the mesh in half, but hopefully will be worth it (especially as I get two windows for the price of one, if I'm careful enough).

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Rik

[markoteal]

I love the tennis racquets, the net result will be great and give your model the real advantage over others. I deduce it will be a good thing to do for one of my models I'm building!