The Reading and Squamish Light Railway Stock Thread
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Re: The Reading and Squamish Light Railway Stock Thread
Diesel had it's first outing last weekend.
I now have far more stock than I can reasonably store in my apartment, so I'm going to make a conscious effort to hold back on building anything new and instead focus on quality rather than quantity. My Lady Anne is set to receive some detailing bits and get some paintwork done over winter. First up though, some builders plates. I've been trying to 3D print these on and off as time allowed for a while now. The printer I usually use just didn't have the resolution to produce the text, so I had to bight the bullet and learn how to use the new one. You can see I'm just about at the limit, but I think they look pretty good.
I now have far more stock than I can reasonably store in my apartment, so I'm going to make a conscious effort to hold back on building anything new and instead focus on quality rather than quantity. My Lady Anne is set to receive some detailing bits and get some paintwork done over winter. First up though, some builders plates. I've been trying to 3D print these on and off as time allowed for a while now. The printer I usually use just didn't have the resolution to produce the text, so I had to bight the bullet and learn how to use the new one. You can see I'm just about at the limit, but I think they look pretty good.
Re: The Reading and Squamish Light Railway Stock Thread
Those plates do look very good. What are the dims and what printer did you use for them?
Philip
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Re: The Reading and Squamish Light Railway Stock Thread
Sorry, I should have left something in the picture for scale! The plates are 17 x 13 mm. I'm using a Form 3 printer. Up until now I had been using an Ultimaker 2+. The Form 3 definitely has better resolution, and gives a smoother finish without visible layering. But it's a bit more involved in terms of handling all the chemicals associated with it. The other thing I struggle with is removing the support structure. I find it impossible to remove from the part without leaving some kind of divot in the surface of the part itself. Fortunately with these plates I was able to print them so that all the support structure was on the back...
Re: The Reading and Squamish Light Railway Stock Thread
I think they look superb Ted.
ROD
Life is so easy when I run my trains.
https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364
https://www.youtube.com/@fairywoodlightrailway
Life is so easy when I run my trains.
https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364
https://www.youtube.com/@fairywoodlightrailway
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Re: The Reading and Squamish Light Railway Stock Thread
I am weak...I'm going to make a conscious effort to hold back on building anything new and instead focus on quality rather than quantity.
This is a very early meths fired Dylan kit courtesy of Anything Narrow Gauge. I'll need to convert it to 45mm gauge, which shouldn't be too hard thanks to some tips from Tony at Rhos Helyg Loco Works. However, it's definitely going to be a step up from my Lady Anne build. Step 1 is to decide on the wheelbase and axle configurations and drill frames and coupling rods accordingly... I sense I might be doing some 'overtime' in the machine shop at work over the holidays...
Two other immediate concerns on inspection are that it has a brass boiler, and both the exhaust pipes need re-soldering into the cylinder blocks. Reading around it seems brass boilers want tap water and to be drained after every run. Since I do both these things anyway (Vancouver water is very soft) I'm hoping I needn't be too concerned?
Regarding resoldering the exhaust pipes, they look to be soft soldered, but I'm thinking these likely get pretty hot and I'd be better off silver soldering them? I can easily soft solder at home, but silver soldering is going to require me to borrow a propane torch.
Oh, and whilst the chassis instructions appear very detailed, I seem to be missing the instructions for assembly of the bodywork. Longshot, but if anyone happens to have a copy...
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Re: The Reading and Squamish Light Railway Stock Thread
Anyone who can get silver solder to take over soft solder is a wizard. I think the chemistry has to do with lead and silver repelling each other. I also understand that soft solder heated to the temperature needed to silver solder will cause corrosion to brassbig-ted wrote: βThu Dec 17, 2020 4:25 pmI'm going to make a conscious effort to hold back on building anything new and instead focus on quality rather than quantity.
Regarding resoldering the exhaust pipes, they look to be soft soldered, but I'm thinking these likely get pretty hot and I'd be better off silver soldering them? I can easily soft solder at home, but silver soldering is going to require me to borrow a propane torch.
Not helpful, but at least you need more research
Tim
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Re: The Reading and Squamish Light Railway Stock Thread
That's a very nice find! Simon at ANG is excellent to deal with, I've found. If you do decide to silver solder, I highly recommend a dremel-type motor tool for removing every trace of soft solder. But then maybe soft is adequate for those joints? Surely someone here owns one of these older locos and could better inform..
Regards,
Aaron - Scum Class Works
Aaron - Scum Class Works
Re: The Reading and Squamish Light Railway Stock Thread
I'd try enquiring directly to Roundhouse themselves. They are usually pretty good at customer service.
Philip
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Re: The Reading and Squamish Light Railway Stock Thread
Oh, I've already started an email with a list of questions to send to them in the new year, along with an order for a cylinder rebuild kit & some buffers...
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Re: The Reading and Squamish Light Railway Stock Thread
Well, 70mm of rain over the weekend meant I had plenty of excuses to get stuck in.
Before starting to put my new loco together, I had to begin by taking it apart. I first checked the wheel back-to-back measurement with my Roundhouse gauge from my Lady Anne to make sure the modern tool was still ok to use with the older wheelsets. Since the 32mm spacing seemed to match the gauge, I figured the 45mm would too. The wheelsets were attacked with a propane torch (I would later find out my little butane torch works fine too) to brake the ~30 year old loctite so that they could be reset to 45mm. Loctite 603 is recommended as it's a wicking grade that will seep into the space around the axle, but it's pricey stuff, and I had some 620 already. This is plenty strong enough, but has to be applied to the axle then the wheel slid over as the 620 is too viscous to seep into the gap.
Then I marked out the frames and coupling rods with where the axle holes needed to be drilled. These early kits allowed the builder to build either a 2 or 3-axle chassis. This does, however, mean that builder has a few significant extra steps to complete before reaching what is essentially 'step one' of a modern kit build. I decided to go for an 0-6-0 as I thought it might look odd to have a loco the same size as my Lady Anne with one less axle. At this point, I relocated to our shop at work. I had it in mind to use the drill press to make sure I drilled everything square. However, once I started setting up I realised that it would be daft not to use the mill, where the linear slide and digital read out allowed me to drill everything in one go with much greater accuracy. So I dusted off my (very rusty) shop skills...
In all honesty, I don't envy anybody who built one of these kits without access to at least a drill press, as it must be very hard to drill everything with good alignment.
The other consequence of my re-gauging the loco was it being necessary to bend the valve rods, as the eccentrics now sat further outboard against the wheels. Not going to lie, this was a royal pain in the proverbial. I'm not entirely sure it would have been much easier without the extra effort of re-gauging, as no matter what I tried, one rod always seemed like it was too long, and one of the eccentrics had a bit of extra solder on it that had to be filed smooth. I ended up having to take one of the rear wheels off the axle to work on the eccentric before re-loctiting it again. Eventually, and with a bit of help from what I thought was a clever trick to run everything in, I got everything running smoothly.
Couldn't resist...
Next I have to take it all apart to paint the frames...
Before starting to put my new loco together, I had to begin by taking it apart. I first checked the wheel back-to-back measurement with my Roundhouse gauge from my Lady Anne to make sure the modern tool was still ok to use with the older wheelsets. Since the 32mm spacing seemed to match the gauge, I figured the 45mm would too. The wheelsets were attacked with a propane torch (I would later find out my little butane torch works fine too) to brake the ~30 year old loctite so that they could be reset to 45mm. Loctite 603 is recommended as it's a wicking grade that will seep into the space around the axle, but it's pricey stuff, and I had some 620 already. This is plenty strong enough, but has to be applied to the axle then the wheel slid over as the 620 is too viscous to seep into the gap.
Then I marked out the frames and coupling rods with where the axle holes needed to be drilled. These early kits allowed the builder to build either a 2 or 3-axle chassis. This does, however, mean that builder has a few significant extra steps to complete before reaching what is essentially 'step one' of a modern kit build. I decided to go for an 0-6-0 as I thought it might look odd to have a loco the same size as my Lady Anne with one less axle. At this point, I relocated to our shop at work. I had it in mind to use the drill press to make sure I drilled everything square. However, once I started setting up I realised that it would be daft not to use the mill, where the linear slide and digital read out allowed me to drill everything in one go with much greater accuracy. So I dusted off my (very rusty) shop skills...
In all honesty, I don't envy anybody who built one of these kits without access to at least a drill press, as it must be very hard to drill everything with good alignment.
The other consequence of my re-gauging the loco was it being necessary to bend the valve rods, as the eccentrics now sat further outboard against the wheels. Not going to lie, this was a royal pain in the proverbial. I'm not entirely sure it would have been much easier without the extra effort of re-gauging, as no matter what I tried, one rod always seemed like it was too long, and one of the eccentrics had a bit of extra solder on it that had to be filed smooth. I ended up having to take one of the rear wheels off the axle to work on the eccentric before re-loctiting it again. Eventually, and with a bit of help from what I thought was a clever trick to run everything in, I got everything running smoothly.
Couldn't resist...
Next I have to take it all apart to paint the frames...
Re: The Reading and Squamish Light Railway Stock Thread
She sure is a very nice looking loco...
ROD
Life is so easy when I run my trains.
https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364
https://www.youtube.com/@fairywoodlightrailway
Life is so easy when I run my trains.
https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364
https://www.youtube.com/@fairywoodlightrailway
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Re: The Reading and Squamish Light Railway Stock Thread
Merry Christmas all!
Two steps forward, one step back, or something like that...
Frames etch primed and painted in Dupli-color black engine enamel: Cranks quartered and pinned. This was a daunting process. I've so far avoided drilling and pinning the return cranks on my Lady Anne, and the timing has never slipped. However, Dylan has the early round axles and cast cranks, all of which are pinned together once the quartering is set. Once I found the right size drill and punch it wasn't too bad. The roundhouse instructions suggest ultimate accuracy is unnecessary and if they look quartered by eye it's good enough. I guess I was slightly off since I had to file out the connecting rods slightly to get it to run without binding, but we got there, and I suspect I could manage my Lady Anne now too.
Next up, repairing the exhaust outlet on the cylinders. I went with a silver-bearing plumbers solder, as silver soldering seemed unnecessary. Not the tidiest job but functional:
And now, I've hit a snag. Seems the 6BA x 1/2" screws needed to mount the cylinders to the frames have gone missing from my kit. There is zero chance of me being able to source these in Canada. (I've previously asked friends who are both machinists and mechanical engineers if they know where I can source BA hardware, and they've all looked at me blankly.) So, my options are:
1. Hope that Roundhouse carry them. The modern kits use M3 allen screws, presumably the allen key allows for better access between the frames. Not sure Roundhouse will have 6BA Allen screws. I have some other bits to order from Roundhouse in the new year...
2. Order from Another UK supplier. EKP Supplies seem to offer 6BA threaded steel allen screws.
3. Drill and tap the frames and cylinders to M3. This would require me to undo my exhaust repair, and drill through my freshly painted and assembled frames, but would allow me to use the stock of M3 allen fasteners I have on hand, and not wait for the new year and the post...
Needless to say, my patience is going to be tried to the limits....!!
In the mean time, I guess I'll start on the burner and the bodywork. I've figured out which pieces go where, although the smokebox vexes me as I can't see how I'm going to solder the front and wrapper together without leaving unsightly gaps...
Two steps forward, one step back, or something like that...
Frames etch primed and painted in Dupli-color black engine enamel: Cranks quartered and pinned. This was a daunting process. I've so far avoided drilling and pinning the return cranks on my Lady Anne, and the timing has never slipped. However, Dylan has the early round axles and cast cranks, all of which are pinned together once the quartering is set. Once I found the right size drill and punch it wasn't too bad. The roundhouse instructions suggest ultimate accuracy is unnecessary and if they look quartered by eye it's good enough. I guess I was slightly off since I had to file out the connecting rods slightly to get it to run without binding, but we got there, and I suspect I could manage my Lady Anne now too.
Next up, repairing the exhaust outlet on the cylinders. I went with a silver-bearing plumbers solder, as silver soldering seemed unnecessary. Not the tidiest job but functional:
And now, I've hit a snag. Seems the 6BA x 1/2" screws needed to mount the cylinders to the frames have gone missing from my kit. There is zero chance of me being able to source these in Canada. (I've previously asked friends who are both machinists and mechanical engineers if they know where I can source BA hardware, and they've all looked at me blankly.) So, my options are:
1. Hope that Roundhouse carry them. The modern kits use M3 allen screws, presumably the allen key allows for better access between the frames. Not sure Roundhouse will have 6BA Allen screws. I have some other bits to order from Roundhouse in the new year...
2. Order from Another UK supplier. EKP Supplies seem to offer 6BA threaded steel allen screws.
3. Drill and tap the frames and cylinders to M3. This would require me to undo my exhaust repair, and drill through my freshly painted and assembled frames, but would allow me to use the stock of M3 allen fasteners I have on hand, and not wait for the new year and the post...
Needless to say, my patience is going to be tried to the limits....!!
In the mean time, I guess I'll start on the burner and the bodywork. I've figured out which pieces go where, although the smokebox vexes me as I can't see how I'm going to solder the front and wrapper together without leaving unsightly gaps...
Re: The Reading and Squamish Light Railway Stock Thread
A quick ebay search for 6BA x 1/2" steel allen screws brought up cap head and countersunk versions. Admittedly they are UK suppliers but a quick search of Ebay Canada brings up the same results and appears to suggest they would post to you .
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from ... len+screws
https://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_from=R4 ... len+screws
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from ... len+screws
https://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_from=R4 ... len+screws
Philip
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Re: The Reading and Squamish Light Railway Stock Thread
I asked a clockmaker friend if he had any small nuts and bolts. He said 'How small? 'I said 'Ooh, 6BA? He replied 'That's enormous!'
Nevertheless, he found some for me. Know any clock repair people?
Nevertheless, he found some for me. Know any clock repair people?
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Re: The Reading and Squamish Light Railway Stock Thread
Good suggestions, thanks. Yes, there's a few places in the UK that I'm sure will ship to me. Rather than pay the eBay fees though I'm leaning towards ordering from these guys:philipy wrote: βSun Dec 27, 2020 8:34 am A quick ebay search for 6BA x 1/2" steel allen screws brought up cap head and countersunk versions. Admittedly they are UK suppliers but a quick search of Ebay Canada brings up the same results and appears to suggest they would post to you .
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from ... len+screws
https://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_from=R4 ... len+screws
https://www.ekpsupplies.com/
They also carry brass 6BA hex head screws to replace all the buffer beam cheese-head screws, so I can justify some cosmetic upgrades on the basis of splitting the postage...
- Old Man Aaron
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Re: The Reading and Squamish Light Railway Stock Thread
G**damn we have it easy with today's RH kits. But you're taking this one all in stride, hat's off to you. That Duplicolor eng. enamel is good stuff, I use it on my locos and Mamod stationaries too.
Regards,
Aaron - Scum Class Works
Aaron - Scum Class Works
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Re: The Reading and Squamish Light Railway Stock Thread
Overdue update on account of temporarily killing my laptop over the holidays...
I decided to bite the bullet and get to soldering the bodywork. The cab and side tanks were basically the same as my Lady Anne, so no surprises there. The smokebox and saddle tanks took some creative setups to clamp everything in place whilst I soldered everything, but it wasn't too difficult: Roundhouse don't have the instructions for these older models anymore, but I'm muddling through. It looks to me like the rear lamp brackets are intended to be fixed on using these 'rivets.' The only way I can think of fixing these is by hitting the shaft of the rivet from the backside in order to round it over though?
The other mystery is what I believe is the battery box. I think it goes on the underside of the cab roof as on my Lady Anne, but it's a very different shape, and I'm not sure how it accommodates the likely 4 AAA batteries...?
I did have the realisation that, in with all the screws are what I thought were 2 1" 6BA hex head screws. In fact, these are two lengths of 6BA threaded rod with nuts on the end. I guess either Roundhouse's or the previous owner's intention was that these each be cut in two 1/2" lengths for mounting of the cylinders. However, the limited space between the frames makes me a bit nervous about this approach as there isn't room to get pliers or other tools in there should I need to extract something, so I'm inclined to be patient and wait for the right screws. BA screws have been procured and should be with me in a couple of weeks. Might tackle some painting in the meantime...
I decided to bite the bullet and get to soldering the bodywork. The cab and side tanks were basically the same as my Lady Anne, so no surprises there. The smokebox and saddle tanks took some creative setups to clamp everything in place whilst I soldered everything, but it wasn't too difficult: Roundhouse don't have the instructions for these older models anymore, but I'm muddling through. It looks to me like the rear lamp brackets are intended to be fixed on using these 'rivets.' The only way I can think of fixing these is by hitting the shaft of the rivet from the backside in order to round it over though?
The other mystery is what I believe is the battery box. I think it goes on the underside of the cab roof as on my Lady Anne, but it's a very different shape, and I'm not sure how it accommodates the likely 4 AAA batteries...?
I did have the realisation that, in with all the screws are what I thought were 2 1" 6BA hex head screws. In fact, these are two lengths of 6BA threaded rod with nuts on the end. I guess either Roundhouse's or the previous owner's intention was that these each be cut in two 1/2" lengths for mounting of the cylinders. However, the limited space between the frames makes me a bit nervous about this approach as there isn't room to get pliers or other tools in there should I need to extract something, so I'm inclined to be patient and wait for the right screws. BA screws have been procured and should be with me in a couple of weeks. Might tackle some painting in the meantime...
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Re: The Reading and Squamish Light Railway Stock Thread
Another overdue update...
A care package arrived with some 6BA bolts courtesy of my Dad, so the cylinders were mounted. Upon mounting the motion bracket these fouled the front cranks, so some material was filed away for clearance. This has been one of the biggest differences between building this and my modern Lady Anne. Roundhouse were clearly more of a cottage industry at the time, with everything being handmade with quite a bit of variation. Nothing the file couldn't fix.
Edit: Having trouble adding more than two images, despite compressing them down thoroughly. Will split post instead...
A care package arrived with some 6BA bolts courtesy of my Dad, so the cylinders were mounted. Upon mounting the motion bracket these fouled the front cranks, so some material was filed away for clearance. This has been one of the biggest differences between building this and my modern Lady Anne. Roundhouse were clearly more of a cottage industry at the time, with everything being handmade with quite a bit of variation. Nothing the file couldn't fix.
Edit: Having trouble adding more than two images, despite compressing them down thoroughly. Will split post instead...
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Re: The Reading and Squamish Light Railway Stock Thread
Another overdue update...
My kit was missing one firebox end. Simon at Anything Narrow Gauge had warned me of this. The front and rear ends are similar, but differ slightly to clear the inside valve gear. Still, it was pretty easy to figure out the necessary shape of the missing rear end from the front. Now, sure, I COULD have cut one by hand, but where's the fun in that? Instead, I took the excuse to learn to use the laser engraver at work. You have to slow it down to cut through the 0.4mm brass sheet I'm using, but you get an incredibly accurate part out at the end...
My kit was missing one firebox end. Simon at Anything Narrow Gauge had warned me of this. The front and rear ends are similar, but differ slightly to clear the inside valve gear. Still, it was pretty easy to figure out the necessary shape of the missing rear end from the front. Now, sure, I COULD have cut one by hand, but where's the fun in that? Instead, I took the excuse to learn to use the laser engraver at work. You have to slow it down to cut through the 0.4mm brass sheet I'm using, but you get an incredibly accurate part out at the end...
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Re: The Reading and Squamish Light Railway Stock Thread
With the cylinders mounted, I could now set the valve movement and timing via the eccentrics. I confess, this is probably my favourite part of building a loco as it's very satisfying once you get an understanding of what's going on and therefore how to adjust things to optimise performance. With a few tweaks, and liberal oiling, I was able to get the chassis to run on air remarkably smoothly in both forwards and reverse using the old bicycle pump method.
Whilst pleased, this actually surprised me as the chassis still feels very stiff when trying to roll it by hand. So much so that one of the wheels came unglued from it's axle when I tried to reverse the direction of the eccentrics. $#^#$%^!!!
So I had to buy some penetrating Loctite after-all. Permatex is a more common brand over here. The equivalent to Loctite 603 is a sleeve retainer 64050. There are two products, both called sleeve retainer, with 64050 being much less viscous, and therefore more suitable. With this fixed, and a bit more effort, here's where I'm at as I type:
Whilst pleased, this actually surprised me as the chassis still feels very stiff when trying to roll it by hand. So much so that one of the wheels came unglued from it's axle when I tried to reverse the direction of the eccentrics. $#^#$%^!!!
So I had to buy some penetrating Loctite after-all. Permatex is a more common brand over here. The equivalent to Loctite 603 is a sleeve retainer 64050. There are two products, both called sleeve retainer, with 64050 being much less viscous, and therefore more suitable. With this fixed, and a bit more effort, here's where I'm at as I type:
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