Radio controlled signals on the PLR
Radio controlled signals on the PLR
Just uploaded another blog post showing how I used a cheapo radio control system to operate my semaphore signals - http://riksrailway.blogspot.co.uk/2016/ ... phore.html
Rik
Rik
- Peter Butler
- Driver
- Posts: 5236
- Joined: Sun Sep 09, 2012 10:33 pm
- Location: West Wales
Thats very interesting Rik. A few years ago I used a remote central locking system for a car to operate a signal for a 5" gauge track by strapping the actuator/servo to the upright so it operated the switch on a signal arm.
Looking at the system you used i'm wondering if its possible to get a simpler, and smaller, system to control the stop, start and reverse of a battery loco.
Barry
Looking at the system you used i'm wondering if its possible to get a simpler, and smaller, system to control the stop, start and reverse of a battery loco.
Barry
Hi Barrysstjc:116388 wrote:Thats very interesting Rik. A few years ago I used a remote central locking system for a car to operate a signal for a 5" gauge track by strapping the actuator/servo to the upright so it operated the switch on a signal arm.
Looking at the system you used i'm wondering if its possible to get a simpler, and smaller, system to control the stop, start and reverse of a battery loco.
Barry
My mate Greg in Oz has done just that - he's even made it possible to control three different locos from the same handset - http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/satr/RC.htm
Rik
That "simulated bounce" feature is very clever- it makes the signals a lot more noticeable simply because if you know it's going to do that, you watch for it. I would never have thought of that. It adds an interesting feature to the railway that is quite enjoyable once you know to look for it.
In a way it reminds me of the clocks in Swiss railway stations. The second-hand pauses for a few seconds just before the twelve and then jumps ahead. It's so distinctive once you know to watch for it that the company that makes them have now started making railway-clock themed watches. If you want to pay 300 francs extra, you can get one with the second hand that does the same thing as the big ones.
In a way it reminds me of the clocks in Swiss railway stations. The second-hand pauses for a few seconds just before the twelve and then jumps ahead. It's so distinctive once you know to watch for it that the company that makes them have now started making railway-clock themed watches. If you want to pay 300 francs extra, you can get one with the second hand that does the same thing as the big ones.
Hi Rik,
Just joined the forum, having read your blog on signals. Tried to answer actually, but must have done something wrong and it didn't go through. Reading it reminds me I must build a ladder and rail for my signal. Am impressed with your bounce action. Think I'll stick with mechanical though, yours is way too complicated for me.
Grant LNR
Just joined the forum, having read your blog on signals. Tried to answer actually, but must have done something wrong and it didn't go through. Reading it reminds me I must build a ladder and rail for my signal. Am impressed with your bounce action. Think I'll stick with mechanical though, yours is way too complicated for me.
Grant LNR
GrantLNR:116512 wrote:Hi Rik,
Just joined the forum, having read your blog on signals. Tried to answer actually, but must have done something wrong and it didn't go through. Reading it reminds me I must build a ladder and rail for my signal. Am impressed with your bounce action. Think I'll stick with mechanical though, yours is way too complicated for me.
Grant LNR
Welcome to the forum. Lots of really useful info on here and some really accomplished modellers. Plenty of helpful advice.
Thanks for the feedback on the blog. I'd have struggled with the bounce program, I must admit. Fortunately my mate Greg in Oz (nr Sydney) is a whizz with Picaxe programming and saw it as a challenge.
Sorry you didn't manage to post a comment on blog post. Sometimes comments seem to disappear into the ether - not sure why.
Rik
Rik,
I've been meaning to ask for ages ( you've probably said it before, so apologies if you have), how do you get the power to the remoter locations in the garden? Is there a permanent 12v supply running right round that you plug into as required or are the signals and turnouts, etc, permanently wired?
I've been meaning to ask for ages ( you've probably said it before, so apologies if you have), how do you get the power to the remoter locations in the garden? Is there a permanent 12v supply running right round that you plug into as required or are the signals and turnouts, etc, permanently wired?
Philip
Hi Philipphilipy:116517 wrote:Rik,
I've been meaning to ask for ages ( you've probably said it before, so apologies if you have), how do you get the power to the remoter locations in the garden? Is there a permanent 12v supply running right round that you plug into as required or are the signals and turnouts, etc, permanently wired?
Nothing very elaborate, I'm afraid. I just use localised 12v lead acid batteries. The current draw isn't very high so they last for ages without charging. I take them in during the winter, though.
I could actualy run a 12v supply to each of the stations. Apart from one, they are quite near the house or the garage and so it wouldn't be a major engineering work. Because I started off with track power, I do still have long runs of twin and earth cabling around the garden which I've used for energising the points which are hard to reach. I use a Deltang remote and Picaxe controlled circuitry to switch the LGB point motors.
As I once used track power, I did think of using the track to carry a 12v supply around the system. However, having gone over to battery power, I just couldn't face the prospect of checking the track joints for continuity all over again.
Rik
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