Garden Railway Forum

Tom, the example on the Deltang site gives: Example: 1. Enable Stop & Reverse (eg: 3,4,8,6,7 = Menu3, P4, Stop&Reverse, 6s deceleration, Random pause). 2. Connect reed switch between P4 and Negative. 3. Install magnet between tracks. Thats fine for what we were both intending, running a shut...

When the reed switch runs over a magnet, it connects P8 to 0v, which is the trigger for the shuttle mode. The loco then slows to a halt, waits for a predetermined length of time (depending on what you program it to wait) and then reverses, slowly building up speed. When it passes over another magne...

Lovely as always. I do like the bridge shot in particular.

Thanks Tom. As I thought, removing the circuit board will remove ALL control so it won't stop at a limit point? I guess I could add a couple of micro switches to act as travel limits, which I've done many times, but its getting messy. For control I'm using an RC garage door opener with 20 channels. ...

Tom,
I haven't done it myself yet, but its on my to-do list to run my railcars on a shuttle service sometimes, and I was planning to do exactly what you've suggested.

Have you considered pneumatic control? A lot more weatherproof than electrickery and no magic smoke to escape...... Thanks for the suggestion, Graeme. No, it had never even crossed my mind. I've had a look at the links you gave and it certainly looks impressive and elegant, but it also looks expens...

I would like to help as if you read my RWLR thread you will see I am able to use servos with RC for points, signals, etc. But if you don't want to go down that route I did play around with a Fulgurex slow action point motor years ago and got it to operate a Peco SM32 point: http://www.dccsupplies.c...

Why not just use a cheap hobby servo for the point? Tom, Sorry, somehow I missed this post. I have thought of using RC servos, in fact I bought a couple to experiment with some while ago. I successfully used servos for 4mm points many years ago, but in those days, on receipt of a signal they simply...

Looks good Rik.
Clever idea videoing in the dark so we can't see there is no little man running back and forth to switch the red and white lamps between front and rear!

Boustrephedon, yes those were my thoughts exactly and why it seemed like a good idea, in principle at least. Jim, good idea but we go full circle! If you look at my thread https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=10492&p=118701&hilit=topsy#p118701 You'll see that I have used RC...

Thanks for the replies chaps. Tom, yes, it may have been locking solenoids. I couldn't really remember except that it was something to do with cars! Thats why I wanted to re-read it. Peter, I saw your recent post on the subject of brake cables, but unfortunately the turnout location I need to operat...

I really like that Steph, well done.

Question - it looks as though you made concrete retaining walls and then applied stone facings somehow, is that right? How are you doing the stonework?

Best bit of model making I've seen in a long time!

Congrats to you and your wife.

2 weeks since your last offering, Peter. Is that ALL you've done in that time???

Seriously, lovely job, as always. It always amazes me how you see the potential for conversion in things.

Looks good, runs beautifully and sounds fine. Well done, you must be very pleased.

Excellent loco! Out of interest what did you use to glue the plasticard together? I've used it for buildings and for the base of an IP loco. Have used evostik serious glue, unibond extreme repair and gorilla glue. Hate GG, the other two are excellent for buildings but found with constant handling o...

I'm sure that quite a long time ago, somebody ( can't remember who) mentioned using electric car window motors for turnout operation. I've been searching but can't find it, can anyone point me in the right direction please?

I echo what the others have said, it's a beautiful job, well done. My only thought, just in case you haven't already thought of it yourself, is weight. The one drawback of using styrene for loco's is lack of inherent weight and the need to find room and fixing points for a sizeable chunk of metal if...

Franz,
That is very nice. Well done.

For ballast I use granite from here: http://resinbondedaggregates.com/product/daltex-green-granite-2mm-resin-bound Although it is called "green" it is the normal greenish grey colour that most ballast seems to come in. Look around the site, they do a huge range of types and sizes. This sho...