Garden Railway Forum

How about a bit of foam in front of the speaker to absorb some sound? I am going to experiment with that to see how much of the speaker needs to be "obstructed". Be interested to know how you get on. I did try putting a piece of 2mm plasticard in front of the speaker and it didn't seem to...

-steves- wrote: ↑Tue Apr 02, 2024 12:59 pm

I will happily add the 3D print files if anyone wants a 32mm gauge cabbed Hunslet?

I'd quite like to add it to my to do list, please Steve. Not sure when it will get past being on the list, I'm already in serious bovver over the amount of time I've put in on the Gmeinder!

Here is the latest news. :roll: Firstly, thanks Greg. I've done as you suggested and just put the 82R in one of the speaker leads and it works a treat, although it does still get a bit warm. I've put it all temporarily inside the body and run it up and down a couple of yards of track in the garden a...

That all sounds fantastic. Can'twait to see it underweigh.

Well.... I've been carefully playing. Phil's pot does work, but the only presets I have, don't have a power rating, but I strongly suspected that is the problem. So, I quickly adjusted it to about the sound level I wanted, switched off and checked the resistance of both legs. Firstly, the 100R pot s...

All sounds very reasonable. Using stakes and marking the level between each one sounds good, although I'd use a felt tip marker rather than spray paint. You want as precise a mark as possible, not the inch or two which is the best you'll get from a spray can. Your outbuilding for stock storage needs...

Me again. Yes, it works, but not sure how long for! The pot I've used is getting very hot after only a few minutes and nearly burns my fingers as I adjust it! It comes from one of those chinese selection boxes and there is no listed power rating, similarly there is no info on the speaker itself, but...

To add a volume control, you could add a 100 ohm pot across the speaker output, and the speaker connected between the wiper (centre-connection) and the 'ground' end of the pot. Thanks Phil. Breathe taken...Pot inserted.. works like a dream! The dog even came in whilst it was on and didn't run away ...

PS. It's probably advisable to protect the link from P3 to the soundcard with a 1k resistor, or maybe even a 4.7k resistor if you're powering the soundcard with 7.4v Rik PS - Now corrected the label for the switch and added the 1k resistor to the wiring diagram (see above) I am no electrician nor t...

Thanks Rik. Yes I've got some of those V.Regs but if it will work off +/- 7v, I can avoid that complication and extra wiring. BTW, 2 questions... what's a DPDT Socket ?? :lol: :lol: ( Sorry, couldn't resist it! :oops: ) More seriously, what do you use to produce the lovely schematic diagrams like th...

You're absolutely right Phil, thanks. I got myself thoroughly confused with the talk of servo's and my messing about with the Rx41d + MA002, and assumed it wanted 3.3v so was reluctant to connect it directly to a nominal 7.2v battery. Now having looked again at the Ali listing and digging down furth...

Thanks Peter. Yes I remember the conversation when Jerry first brought those out. In fact I did have some correspondence with him at the time about which resin he used. From looking at the pictures, I think his links are thicker than mine and I think his resin was a more 'engineering quality' than m...

Okey doke... well as I said earlier this afternoon on my Gmeinder thread, the Rx 603C is working fine at controlling the loco, including the P1 "LED2" repeater. So I started to check out the Cheapo sound card. My intention was to connect the two power leads to the 0v & 3.3v at the side...

Iron Cross & Wreath...gone, from the to-do list! One of the things I've avoided till now is the question of the couplings. Obviously on the original photo there is a curve fronted bar and what appears to be a chain fixed to an eyebolt, but detail is difficult to see. The new 'rusty' pic is clear...

I'm afraid to say that I agree with Peter. I think you know yourself that you won't be happy with either of your suggested solutions, longer term.

On a broader note, I think that the long thin sections that we tend to use are susceptable to warping generally.

Yup, a standard 603c will work straight out the box using pin 1 onto the white signal wire of the soundcard. Obviously with all negatives and positives attached :thumbup: If for some bizarre reason it doesn't then you can reprogramme using 2,1,1,1,1 I thought P1 on a standard MR603 gave forward lig...

Thanks Drew.
I've seen them with 1914 on as well.
Unless somebody can advise differently, I think I'm going to forget about it. I can't believe it was a standard fitting!

Thanks Rik, I'd not seen that specific pic, but there are loads of variations on the theme. It's the little plaque and apparent picture that puzzle me. TBH, I don't really want to put it on unless there is a good reason to, and I suspect that this is maybe referring to a wartime death somehow associ...

So... I have eventually got to run the 'Anna', and I am smitten! She ran impeccably, easy to control, everyone present enjoyed seeing a 'heritage' loco run, and if I had wanted to, I think I could have sold her to a number of those present? Well done Phil. Glad she worked out ok. I can sympathise w...

I'm working towards the end of this one now! Firstly, my normal fixation about colour, isn't too much of a prob this time. :lol: :lol: I have 4 choices: Lightish grey and rust, as per the original picture, Heavy rust and an assortment of other colours as per the latest picture, or take it back to it...