Garden Railway Forum

Graeme, Very interesting, and much to think about. - I hate motor/gear noise! Do you find any problems, with running the motors at a lower voltage for prolonged periods? - I am wondering if they will tend to run 'hot'? Phil.P Phil, In principle, the heat generated (and power consumed) increase by t...

Nice work Steve.

Goes to show, once you have a 3d printer, you always find a reason to use it!

Thanks
Paul.

I'm looking purely at pot boilers, and those have sufficient distance from the 'flue' heatshield to keep the bulk of the flame heat onto the boiler and straight up. I'm considering shortening the metal flue/shield on my Mamod project to keep the heat slightly further back on the boiler. I figured y...

The steam temperature at modest pressures is only in the region of 120-140, so temperature in the boiler due this is going to be of a similar range. Conduction of combustion heat might be a potential issue, but should largely be governed by the presence of water in the boiler. I intend to do some r...

It's good to see someone else stretching what 3d printers can achieve. I look forward to hearing how this smokebox copes with the heat. However I fear that the smokebox might get hotter than 160 degrees. Just have to try it to find out! I will get back to working on 4420 shortly. The latest prospec...

(a) Your smokebox looks stunning as it is, remarkable quality given you've done no tidying up! (b) Following with interest how 3D parts cope with heat on a live steamer; I am following in Trevor's footprints building his Kerr Stuart 4420 design which mixes 3D chassis and body with brass and copper ...

I use every brand of resin going, whatever is on offer at the time, I even mix them, including colours and brands when one is getting low in the vat. I have never had any issues doing this and must have gone through at least a dozen or more bottles. Some of the prints are a marbled effect as the co...

Thanks Phillip, On reading Rik's thread's on working with PETG, I am going to leave it. Your'e correct about saving the few pounds against all kinds of possible trouble trying to print with it. So I am going to stay with PLA, haven't tried PLA+ though, so may have a go with that and see how it is. ...

I've been into 3D printing for years. It started as part of my job, but once hobby resin printers became reasonably priced, I set up at home. During Covid, I print a lot of loco shells for OO, the printers paid for themselves in that respect, and it gave me a decent depth of knowledge with the print...

Folks, Digging up this old thread, but probably worth it. I do quite a lot of 'resin' printing, and found the best all rounder resin, is Siraya tech fast. - minimal warpage - a good easy resin to wash off (some resins stay sticky even after a good IPA 99% wash). - good mechanical properties. - lots ...

The framework looks especially good, utterly fab, rusted, flaking paint, excellent.

The body looks great too, its the bit that gets the lions share of the abuse, albeit typically impact damage, depending on the load it carried.


Paul

Thanks for your prompt reply. I have test run the loco today and am suprised at how stable it was. Upon checking the wheel appears to be approx 1mm off the surface, but after the test I may just accept the problem for now as I am involved sorting a Regner Vincents problem. Hi, It might be that the ...

Hi Paul and :welcomewave He doesn't have a webpage, but you can email him and he will send you a price list. He is very accommodating and will reply with any requests you have. This is his email. jerry.irwin@homecall.co.uk And his Flicker page were you will find all of his models. I do believe he i...

Since I first became aware of Jerry Irwin's kits I have been an avid collector, everything he produces is to the highest standard and at a sensible price too! I strongly suggest you watch his construction videos on Youtube before attempting the build, the chassis are a complex assembly which must b...