Plastic card thicknesses - What do you use?

Dannypenguin · Post by **Dannypenguin** » Wed Apr 30, 2014 8:16 pm

Bit of research regarding plastic card - What thickness do you use and for what?

Tanks in advance

Peter Butler · Post by **Peter Butler** » Wed Apr 30, 2014 10:13 pm

I don't think this is an easy question to answer definitively because models vary so much in their construction method. However, I usually use 1mm thick for the sides of a goods van for example, cut to size and grooved with a Stanley knife blade by scraping the point, edge -on, along a metal rule. Once this is done I use two 2mm strips glued together to form the framing of the sides. This makes the structure much stronger and keeps the whole thing rigid....

Floors and other flat supporting formers can be made of 2mm sheet.
For intricate shapes and detailing I often use thinner card 0.5mm or less (depending on the shape required) and use a metal rule to draw the cut plastic section across causing the sheet to curl.

My best advice is try it yourself to get the feel for the material. With practise it is very easy to make something fairly quickly and if it is not perfect first time not an expensive mistake.
Never.... never use tube adhesive!
I use liquid solvent applied with a brush.

sstjc · Post by **sstjc** » Wed Apr 30, 2014 11:27 pm

Everything of mine is 2mm except for roof and bendy bits. But as Peter rightly says it depends very much on the construction method. You need to design correctly to build in the nessesary strength.

Post by **philipy** » Thu May 01, 2014 6:28 am

I agree with what has been said so far. My only other contribution is that, for thicknesses of 60thou ( 1.5mm) or less, I use a scalpel rather than a Stanley knife. I find that the blades being thinner, they leave less of a raised burr along the cut edges.

andymctractor · Post by **andymctractor** » Thu May 01, 2014 10:30 am

Dannypenguin:100174 wrote:Bit of research regarding plastic card - What thickness do you use and for what?

I have used plasticard and styrene profiles and strips for many years for my indoor modelling and continue to use it usually for small adaptations of kits in 16mm/ft. I'm sure if/when I start to scratchbuild rolling stock etc. in 16mm/ft this material will be near the top of the list for selection. The problem in answering this question is that there is a vast variety of sheets and other products made of this stuff and its uses are also varied.

I always use 'Plastic Weld' rather than other adhesives as it seems to glue more different types of plastic than some of the milder stuff.

I do own a book that sets out some very clever or less well know uses for this material including laminating it into blocks then turning it in a lathe, vacuum forming, 3 dimensional bending over wooden blocks in an oven. It is 'Making Model Boats with Styrene'. by Richard Webb ISBN 1 900371 46 4 (c) 2003 Traplet Publications Ltd. It is a small paper back packed with advice on using this material with techniques that will apply to all modelling not just boats.

jim@NAL · Post by **jim@NAL** » Thu May 01, 2014 9:49 pm

I used plastc card that was probably a bit to thick so I struggled a bit but here's what I made

http://gardenrails.myfreeforum.org/about7449.html

its nothing as good as some of the other models iv seen people made on here(peter butler) using plastc card but hay I had a go you never know until you try and like peter said its not expensive stuff so its no big deal if you made a mistake

going to the local model shop sat as I have a voucher I got for Christmas so going to buy plastc card and the glue peter said about

laurence703 · Post by **laurence703** » Thu May 01, 2014 10:53 pm

Silly question... Where can I get some Plastic card? I can never seem to find any!

Peter Butler · Post by **Peter Butler** » Thu May 01, 2014 10:56 pm

I remember your post and sent a response at the time about the detailing which I thought was very good. It doesn't appear to be the wrong thickness as there are no obvious gaps or other problems. The only way to tell is if you struggled to cut and shape the card because of the thickness, in which case perhaps thinner card with bracing might be a better option.

Peter Butler · Post by **Peter Butler** » Thu May 01, 2014 10:59 pm

laurence703:100212 wrote:Silly question... Where can I get some Plastic card? I can never seem to find any!

Model shops, craft shops, exhibitions and on-line.
If bought on-line, some very large sheets are available and are much better value.

invicta280 · Post by **invicta280** » Thu May 01, 2014 10:59 pm

Love that Florence loco. Full of character.

Peter: Just wondering why you say never use tube glue. I have used some on the railbus I am building at present, but have used other glues as well ( including Revell model kit glue and even CA glue). You have got me worried now. Do some glues eat the styrene sheet?
I know that when gluing expanded polystyrene you have to use
solvent free adhesive.

Peter Butler · Post by **Peter Butler** » Thu May 01, 2014 11:05 pm

Invicta, my concern with tube glue is simply one of distribution and excess.... With liquid solvent applied by brush only a measured amount is applied and the rest evaporates. Tube glues are really a gell and more than you need is often squeezed out causing it to spread over the model and make a mess which is difficult to remove.
I speak from my own experience and others might have a different opinion.

sstjc · Post by **sstjc** » Thu May 01, 2014 11:23 pm

Use MEK or plasticweld... A good supplier of plasticard is http://www.stationroadbaseboards.co.uk/ but there is plenty on ebay as well...

sstjc · Post by **sstjc** » Thu May 01, 2014 11:27 pm

invicta280:100215 wrote:Love that Florence loco. Full of character.

Peter: Just wondering why you say never use tube glue. I have used some on the railbus I am building at present, but have used other glues as well ( including Revell model kit glue and even CA glue). You have got me worried now. Do some glues eat the styrene sheet?
I know that when gluing expanded polystyrene you have to use
solvent free adhesive.

Tube glues just bond as with any other glue. Mek and plasticweld and other such solvents actually melt the edges of the plasticard being joined and they become as if they had been manufactured in that way and the joint seems as strong as the card itself. Using an old or cheap paint brush means you have total control and once the excess has evaporated there is no residue. Try it and I guarantee you won't use anything else.

bazzer42 · Post by **bazzer42** » Fri May 02, 2014 8:08 am

Danny,
I agree that the solvent glues are easier to use. Cement has its place if used sparingly but I struggle to get it right and usually end up having to start again. The brands mentioned above are the best I have used.

I also find the plastruct and evergreen packs give good options but they are an expensive way of getting nice straight strips or angles. I used 1.5mm quadrant on my door moulds because you just can't make that. I would have used strip on a wagon like Peter B's above but the thinner the sheet the easier to get straight, parallel strips.

As a responsible adult I have to warn you that you may need to be 18 to buy solvent

. As an irresponsible adult confirm to the website you are 18 or get your dad to stock it! On a serious note the fumes are strong and hazardous.

Breaking thread my new secondhand Lady Anne was given to me by the council on Wednesday and I have promised a bouncy castle open day in the summer. I'll let you know when.

Dannypenguin · Post by **Dannypenguin** » Fri May 02, 2014 11:59 am

Thanks everyone! Sorted my issues now

bazzer42:100226 wrote:Breaking thread my new secondhand Lady Anne was given to me by the council on Wednesday and I have promised a bouncy castle open day in the summer. I'll let you know when.

I knew Roundhouse were good but I didn't think they made their loco's so they could bounce?

sstjc · Post by **sstjc** » Fri May 02, 2014 12:38 pm

William Shatner sniffed the fumes from the solvents and listen what happened to him ! http://youtu.be/V1Ar79f8aN8

McRuss · Post by **McRuss** » Sun May 25, 2014 6:26 am

Hello,

I've got a question regarding laminating larger sheet of plasticcard with solvent like Slater MEK Pak.
I'm at the start on scratchbuilding a 4 wheel coach for my railway. I plan to buildt it from two or three layers of 1mm styrene card, which will be laminated together. So is there enough time to apply the MEK Pak to one sheet and then laminate the other sheet on it before the solvent dries?

Markus

Post by **philipy** » Sun May 25, 2014 6:53 am

Presumably you mean fretted out layers of mouldings etc, not 2 or 3 layers of solid flat sheet?

If you start from one long edge and hold the fretted sheet slightly away from the base layer, using a brush you can get the liquid to flow between the layers by capilliary action.

You are unlikely to be able laminate large flat areas of sheet, if you get enough solvent in to be sure that all areas are 'wetted' then almost certainly you'll have flooded some bits which will then soften and distort. this may not actually show up fora few days or even weeks, by which time it will be to late.

My suggestion would be to try a few test bits first and get the knack, before wasting a lot of time and money on a coach side.

McRuss · Post by **McRuss** » Sun May 25, 2014 7:28 am

Hello Philipy,,

I do mean solid flat sheets.
In one of the BRM instructional DVDs about
model railway construction it is mentiond to drill
holes in the inner layer to apply solvent through the
holes.

Markus

Post by **philipy** » Sun May 25, 2014 12:23 pm

Personally, I wouldn't for the reasons I said before. Also, I don't see the point, why not simply use a thicker sheet to start with?

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Plastic card thicknesses - What do you use?

Plastic card thicknesses - What do you use?

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