How do you use your Radio Control Set-Up?
- Chris Cairns
- Driver
- Posts: 2366
- Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2007 7:25 pm
- Location: Glasgow, Scotland
How do you use your Radio Control Set-Up?
Looking to hear how others use their Radio Control Set-Up especially with separate regulator & reverser controls on live steam.
I previously discussed a cheap DSM2 based system ( http://gardenrails.myfreeforum.org/about7460.html ) but that eBay trader must have read my posting as the price has gone up to £19:99 for the transmitter. However I have found the similar 4 channel DSM2 transmitter (various badged MLP4DSM's) for £9:99 inc P&P. Hobby King UK (the cheapest) still have the Orange RX on back order so I'll probably go for the £7:80 inc P&P ones on eBay.
I've proved these Mode 2 (friction throttle on left stick) transmitters work with the combined Cheddar Models regulator/reverser valves although I was wrong about servo reverse on the throttle channel - it is only available on the other 3 channels.
So I have a 2nd hand Edrig which has been fitted with servos on the regulator & reverser. Speaking to a fellow volunteer who runs the indoor 45mm garden railway at our railway group he uses 2 channels on his Roundhouse engines with the rachet/friction throttle channel being used on the regulator, and the self-centring elevator channel on the reverser. His experience with this is it is very easy to release the elevator control which will then self-centre and stop the loco quickly if required.
Not sure yet how these Mode 2 transmitters will work with setting up an ESC fitted electric diesel as to bind the RX the throttle control has to be at the minimum position (would be fully reverse on the ESC). I'm sure it is doable - just need some time to research it.
Any inputs to this topic with your Radio Control experiences, especially with live steam, would be most welcome. Thank You.
Chris Cairns.
I previously discussed a cheap DSM2 based system ( http://gardenrails.myfreeforum.org/about7460.html ) but that eBay trader must have read my posting as the price has gone up to £19:99 for the transmitter. However I have found the similar 4 channel DSM2 transmitter (various badged MLP4DSM's) for £9:99 inc P&P. Hobby King UK (the cheapest) still have the Orange RX on back order so I'll probably go for the £7:80 inc P&P ones on eBay.
I've proved these Mode 2 (friction throttle on left stick) transmitters work with the combined Cheddar Models regulator/reverser valves although I was wrong about servo reverse on the throttle channel - it is only available on the other 3 channels.
So I have a 2nd hand Edrig which has been fitted with servos on the regulator & reverser. Speaking to a fellow volunteer who runs the indoor 45mm garden railway at our railway group he uses 2 channels on his Roundhouse engines with the rachet/friction throttle channel being used on the regulator, and the self-centring elevator channel on the reverser. His experience with this is it is very easy to release the elevator control which will then self-centre and stop the loco quickly if required.
Not sure yet how these Mode 2 transmitters will work with setting up an ESC fitted electric diesel as to bind the RX the throttle control has to be at the minimum position (would be fully reverse on the ESC). I'm sure it is doable - just need some time to research it.
Any inputs to this topic with your Radio Control experiences, especially with live steam, would be most welcome. Thank You.
Chris Cairns.
All of mine are set like this:
Left stick: Up=Go, Down=Stop
Right stick: Up=Forwards, Down=Backwards
I remove the spring and put a ratchet on the right stick. With both sticks ratcheted there is then no need to hold the transmitter continuously.
Left stick: Up=Go, Down=Stop
Right stick: Up=Forwards, Down=Backwards
I remove the spring and put a ratchet on the right stick. With both sticks ratcheted there is then no need to hold the transmitter continuously.
Tony Willmore
Rhos Helyg Locomotive Works: http://www.rhoshelyg.me.uk
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/RhosHelygLocoWorks
Rhos Helyg Locomotive Works: http://www.rhoshelyg.me.uk
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/RhosHelygLocoWorks
- Chris Cairns
- Driver
- Posts: 2366
- Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2007 7:25 pm
- Location: Glasgow, Scotland
Hi Chris,
I currently have two trains running on rc - both Roundhouse - one is a Katie and the latest one a Silver Lady. Both are still set as they come from the factory but are both different as the Silver Lady uses three channels.
Katie: Like Tony for left stick - up go, down stop, this is on a ratchet
right stick - left for forward, right for backward, this is sprung loaded so needs to be held but its like a dead mans break, letting it go stops the engine immediately. I currently like that but I'm fairly new to this so may change my mind.
Silver Lady: Left stick up go, down stop on ratchet but same stick left is forward and right is back - sprung loaded so again acts as dead mans switch.
Right stick: Silver Lady is fitted with option to have steam from chimney or steam from dummy drain valves so right is chimney and left is drain valves - or combination - its ratchet so can be set and left.
Regards
I currently have two trains running on rc - both Roundhouse - one is a Katie and the latest one a Silver Lady. Both are still set as they come from the factory but are both different as the Silver Lady uses three channels.
Katie: Like Tony for left stick - up go, down stop, this is on a ratchet
right stick - left for forward, right for backward, this is sprung loaded so needs to be held but its like a dead mans break, letting it go stops the engine immediately. I currently like that but I'm fairly new to this so may change my mind.
Silver Lady: Left stick up go, down stop on ratchet but same stick left is forward and right is back - sprung loaded so again acts as dead mans switch.
Right stick: Silver Lady is fitted with option to have steam from chimney or steam from dummy drain valves so right is chimney and left is drain valves - or combination - its ratchet so can be set and left.
Regards
Retirement has its benefits if only I can afford the railway!
I run 2 channel rc but like my car and the house electrics I turn them on and they work but I don't know how exactly. My lack of rc knowledge is one to overcome so hence a read of the post. I intend to add rc to an essel chassis diesel I have but where to start?......Chris Cairns:91702 wrote:Thank You Tony.
I'm guessing the other 78 viewers of this Topic do not run 2 channel R/C live steam.
Chris Caitrns.
Bazzer42
I do, but the loco in question is slip eccentric. LH stick, with ratchet, for regulator. RH stick (have removed spring, but not got around to sorting a ratchet) for whistle.Chris Cairns:91702 wrote:Thank You Tony.
I'm guessing the other 78 viewers of this Topic do not run 2 channel R/C live steam.
Chris Cairns.
Richard Huss
in sunny Solihull
in sunny Solihull
- GardenSteamer
- Cleaner
- Posts: 32
- Joined: Thu Apr 26, 2012 8:33 pm
My recent IP Jessica build has engine sound start/stop on left stick to the left and horn sound to the right. Sprung Right stick up forward speed increase and reverse speed increase right stick down central position stop. My Silver Lady uses 4 channels Left stick sprung left forward, centre neutral, Right reverse, - unsprung up increase speed down decrease speed, - Right stick unsprung left/Right drain cock or steam up chimney, - sprung up steam whistle, down blanked off. - My Roundhouse Jack-ltd. has unsprung left stick up/down speed control, - and centre to left sprung steam whistle, centre to right blanked off. The Right stick has sprung left/right forward and reverse.
Allen Hopper - early retirement can't beat it !
- Chris Cairns
- Driver
- Posts: 2366
- Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2007 7:25 pm
- Location: Glasgow, Scotland
Excellent - that is more like it. Thank You to all who have now taken part in this discussion.
I have a lot of experience of Radio Control in cars, boats, aeroplanes & helicopters, and whilst there will always be personal preferences, there are fairly universal standards applied there - Mode 2 being widely used in the UK.
However as this small sample perhaps shows there is quite a variation within the Garden Railway community, possibly down to whether it was fitted by the manufacturer (with Roundhouse's use of the car/boat transmitters with their left/right stick or wheel steering channel), or like in my case here being retrofitted later.
At least I can now experiment more with my Edrig whilst I refurbish it.
Thank You.
Chris Cairns.
That was my reason for posting this Discussion.Gremlin wrote:my steamers are not all the same which is a tad annoying but wasn't sure which is best to change them to.
I have a lot of experience of Radio Control in cars, boats, aeroplanes & helicopters, and whilst there will always be personal preferences, there are fairly universal standards applied there - Mode 2 being widely used in the UK.
However as this small sample perhaps shows there is quite a variation within the Garden Railway community, possibly down to whether it was fitted by the manufacturer (with Roundhouse's use of the car/boat transmitters with their left/right stick or wheel steering channel), or like in my case here being retrofitted later.
At least I can now experiment more with my Edrig whilst I refurbish it.
Thank You.
Chris Cairns.
The use of left-right on the right-hand stick for direction dates back to the days of 27MHz and 40MHz transmitters. These only had up and down (no side to side) on the left stick, and only side to side (no up and down) on the right stick. Countless locos had their radio set up accordingly.
When the 2.4GHz sets came along the "missing" stick movements became available and so opened up the opportunity to use the sticks in a more imaginative way but manufacturers continued to use the old settings for consistency, if nothing else.
Personally, with a 40MHz transmitter I could never remember whether right stick left was forward or reverse and inevitably ended up going the wrong direction on many occasions. Changing to up and down for direction makes it easier for me as the stick then mimics the loco's own reversing lever: forward for forwards, back for backwards.
When the 2.4GHz sets came along the "missing" stick movements became available and so opened up the opportunity to use the sticks in a more imaginative way but manufacturers continued to use the old settings for consistency, if nothing else.
Personally, with a 40MHz transmitter I could never remember whether right stick left was forward or reverse and inevitably ended up going the wrong direction on many occasions. Changing to up and down for direction makes it easier for me as the stick then mimics the loco's own reversing lever: forward for forwards, back for backwards.
Tony Willmore
Rhos Helyg Locomotive Works: http://www.rhoshelyg.me.uk
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/RhosHelygLocoWorks
Rhos Helyg Locomotive Works: http://www.rhoshelyg.me.uk
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/RhosHelygLocoWorks
- Peter Butler
- Driver
- Posts: 5247
- Joined: Sun Sep 09, 2012 10:33 pm
- Location: West Wales
In line with recent communications I will add to this post to say that I am one who has read each new addition to the subject as a matter of course as well as general interest. However, until now I have had nothing to say as I am not using RC myself.Chris Cairns:91702 wrote:I'm guessing the other 78 viewers of this Topic do not run 2 channel R/C live steam.
This posting at least places me on record as one of the 78 viewers of the topic.
BUT....... I have at least 3 projects on the bench which will require RC (alas not steam) and then I will refer to this post again and at that point probably be more active in asking for advice which will be more directly related to my needs.
I have said before that Chris writes the most fascinating reports which I always read and enjoy. I can't relate to most simply due to my lack of compatible equipment (which simply means ...no steam engine!) so my replies are naturally limited.
I will continue to watch.... and learn.
- Chris Cairns
- Driver
- Posts: 2366
- Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2007 7:25 pm
- Location: Glasgow, Scotland
Indeed Tony, although I guess the attractiveness of a cheaper 2 channel system with a smaller receiver was also a factor (not all 27 & 40 MHZ systems are just 2 channel only).
I have settled on Regulator control on the left stick fore & aft (throttle channel in Mode 2) which is a friction fit, and reverser control on the right stick fore & aft (elevator control in Mode 2) against the self centring spring.
This combination works perfectly in my 2nd hand Edrig and worked out at just under £18 inc P&P for the 2.4GHz DSM2 transmitter & receiver.
It does not work as well on my Cheddar/GRS tram (there being no servo reverse facility on the throttle channel) but I'll explain that more in my Cheddar/GRS tram topic following some more work required before I can get some photos taken.
Chris Cairns.
I have settled on Regulator control on the left stick fore & aft (throttle channel in Mode 2) which is a friction fit, and reverser control on the right stick fore & aft (elevator control in Mode 2) against the self centring spring.
This combination works perfectly in my 2nd hand Edrig and worked out at just under £18 inc P&P for the 2.4GHz DSM2 transmitter & receiver.
It does not work as well on my Cheddar/GRS tram (there being no servo reverse facility on the throttle channel) but I'll explain that more in my Cheddar/GRS tram topic following some more work required before I can get some photos taken.
Chris Cairns.
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