Garden Railway Forum

Evening, I've got a query for anyone out there who is a bit of a whiz with electronics. I'm trying to wire up an IP Engineering speed controller to my Feanor Loco, but I'm trying to minimise the amount of re-wiring I would have to do (particularly around the switches).

So this is the wiring in the loco currently.



and this is the wiring for the controller (as per the instructions)



What I'm after understanding is whether I can wire in the resistor, pot et al in the speed controller diagram easily into the current set up in the loco?

Any suggestions as to what a combined circuit diagram (as similar to the feanor diagram) would look like?

Moved to help me

Mr. Bond of the DVLR:78295 wrote:Moved to help me

Thanks, realised there was a more appropriate sub forum the minute I'd posted!

The circuit diagram you need to end up is the one supplied with the speed controller.

You have two switches, the one with the 'X' in the wiring and connections to all 6 terminals is the reversing switch, and the other is the on/off.

The top diagram (without speed control) shows the on/off switch nearest to the motor and the direction switch between there and the battery box. Whereas the circuit with the speed controller needs the reversing switch to go between the motor and the rest of the circuit.

I'd carefully snip both switches out and try to leave the fiddly 'X' wires on the reversing switch intact. It's possible you may end up melting the switches anyway, that's what happened when I attempted something similar.

I've got the same loco and have often questioned the odd switching arrangement. As Richard says, leaving the switches alone is the best idea as they do melt very easily. I would start by unsoldering the wires from the motor (red and black), this pair now become the wires to the battery. Cut the wires linking the two switches together (blue and purple), this is where the speed controller needs to go. If you can get hold of a peice of strip board to build the circuit onto it makes the final connections much easier. The two wires that come from the battery to the switch with the cross can now be cut and the ends soldered onto the motor. Providing all the wires are long enough you should be able to do it without touching the switches.

Thanks both, I'll give it a go and let you know how I get on.

If you do melt 'em don't worry - replacements easily obtained e.g. Maplin order code FH35Q (http://www.maplin.co.uk/double-pole-sub-miniature-2480) or Technobots part no. 1610-200 (http://www.technobotsonline.com/dpdt-mi ... -0.3a.html).