Garden Railway Forum

Trevor Thompson wrote: ↑Fri Nov 27, 2020 5:34 pm The problem with printing them this way up is that the roughest parts of the finished item are on the top where they are so obvious.

I would cut the horse in half and print the bottom half legs up and the top half head up and bond the two parts together. This way you get a good finish for the top side and the bottom side. I do this with my figures, especially sitting ones, cutting the body at an angle to minimise support required for the arms. Also reduces the re-print time if something goes wrong on one half of the object.

Now that is impressive.
Bookmarked for future reference

Rik

That horse is very impressive and really looks the part.

Horses that usually pulled carts did have rough hair on their bodies Trevor. My Dad always kept it longer on their bodies, he said it helped to reduce the rubbing of the tack on the horse. His horses never had any trouble that came with rubbed skin that could get infected...

I haven't had time to actually look properly at what is involved, although I suspect it is way beyond me ( and my computer!). However the demo's from this process of creating a full 3d figure from a 2d photo, are amazing.
https://shunsukesaito.github.io/PIFuHD/

Trevor Thompson wrote: ↑Fri Nov 27, 2020 5:34 pm There are some errors. Firstly the harness around the horses chest has a gap just in front of the girth. Secondly the collar is at an angle. Very difficult to control how you rotate a curved component. I will fix these errors and try again - perhaps the right way up to see what happens.

Trevor

Just a thought, just print the horse, in two parts possibly as suggested printing the collar and tack separately and add detailing.

philipy wrote: ↑Sun Nov 29, 2020 8:59 am I haven't had time to actually look properly at what is involved, although I suspect it is way beyond me ( and my computer!). However the demo's from this process of creating a full 3d figure from a 2d photo, are amazing.
https://shunsukesaito.github.io/PIFuHD/

Impressive!!


Rik

Firstly creating 3 D images from a photo. That looks incredible! The problem will be in getting to use it and actually making printed models from it. However the potential is beyond my wildest imaginings - just think of people in historic photos and making models of them! I have had a quick look and I am sure it isn't that straight forward.

My trials with make human and blender are hung pending working out how to use clothes others have prepared, and perhaps making specific clothes for the victorian figures I want to populate my railway. I can make a figure. I can change its posture. I can print it. So far so good.

The horse. I have printed it the right way up - and it has worked. I thin my previous failures involved PLA rather than ABS, tree like supports and a more slender horse - more of a thoroughbred. This looks much more like a carthorse.

Printing in two parts seems a good idea - the supports are then in the middle and get glued together. As far as printing the tack separately - it won't work in this case. Look back at the screenshot showing the tack and you will see that the harnessing is formed from solid sections which are superimposed on the horse. The solid sections go through the horse, and only print because the slicing software recognises that only the outer surface is printable - the rest is solid. Well by slicing software does this.

I am now working on a" Phaeton" which is a form of carriage which I think is most likely to be the sort of carriage which the carriage wagon would have been built to carry. I also have the carriage wagon drawn up. There is a drawing of it in the Spooner Album. I think a Dandy wagon has to go with it to carry the horse. Drawing for that in the 7mm Association book of Festiniog Historic drawings.

So more of those later

Trevor

So the horse the right way round - straight out of the printer:
and with the support filament knocked off:
I will try printing something in two parts soon. Probably most appropriate for a figure. This horse has printed very cleanly in one piece. Any roughness is underneaths where it isn't visible.

And the carriage wagon with the Phaeton sitting on it:
When you have drawn the first thing it is easy to move on to the next because you are not starting from scratch. So the Phaeton is based on the wagonette - same wheels, axles, undercarriage. The body is new, and the drivers seat has been modified. The hood is completely new - and I am quite pleased with the way that has turned out. It consists of the same section, copied, pasted and rotated. Every other one has been made smaller all around. Taken together it seems reasonably convincing (to me).

The wagon frame is based on the slate wagon body, with a deck from the coal wagon. The axle box is based on the slate wagon one, modified. The coupling is from the Ashbury 4 wheel coach.

You might remember that I use a coupling based on that fitted to coach 15 and 16 when they were new for my coaches. As something that I think would be used with coaches that seems vaguely appropriate for this wagon (even if it is actually wrong). However I might use hook and link couplings on the Dandy wagon as I think the coach coupling would be inappropriate on something which would have been used mostly as a coal or goods wagon by the 1880s.

There are bits missing from the wagon (deliberately) one wheel is in place (the other three are identical). I like to place one correctly because I can then see that the flange isn't going to hit the wagon body. I have only put two axle boxes in - the other side is identical after all.

More as these print out.

Trevor

The horse looks really good now.

Trevor Thompson wrote: ↑Sun Nov 29, 2020 1:06 pm pending working out how to use clothes others have prepared,

To use clothes from the library, called Assets in MH speak, you simply go to the libraray and download them, then they appear in the lists on the RH side of the main screen.
http://www.makehumancommunity.org/conte ... ssets.html

That is a flipping brilliant horse....

Hello! I follow the topic with interest. I have the same for a 3d printer. Htre is a photo of my models. I am using Tinkercad. I like the theme of logging and mining.

That is some fantastic work in Tinkercad, well done. I use Tinkercad too, which I know a couple of other people on here do too

Ruby, That is some beautiful work. The first picture is fabulous.

Great looking models. TinkerCAD is my chosen 3D drawing package. So much more intuitive than others I've tried.

Rik

Very important 3d building ! A typical old railroad toilet.

Brilliant work Ruby!

I like the detail you are able to generate with TinkerCad.

I have almost finished the Phaeton, and am about to start printing the carriage truck:
Just the passenger seat and the mudguards to go. The shafts in this case are separate, (which is why the front ends are resting on the ground) so that they can be stowed on the deck of the truck.

Trevor

A question for our 3D-printing experts out there if I may.
I'm considering a cheap printer of the style which Rik has pointed out on eBay.
I initially just want to print some window frames for some Foamex builds I have planned, and at the quantity I require the printer would pay for itself on its first run.

However I don't have a PC or laptop available that I can use for the production of the print files, I have had a play with TinkerCad on my Chromebook and can export an STL file to a USB stick for printing.

Now the big question: will I be disappointed? I see a lot of discussion regarding tweaking settings to get a good print, and people 'fixing' the output from the various versions of design software, which I'm not sure this setup will allow.

Don't get me wrong, I am prepared to put in some effort, but I know that I will lose interest if I can't at least see some useable output quite early on! I'm considering a 3D printer as a means to an end, not a hobby in its own right.

Thanks in advance for your words of wisdom!

Typically it looks like Ruby may have partially answered this, if only I read all the posts more thoroughly.

Several others have recommended Tinkercad, but I tried it and didn't like it I prefer Sketchup which others don't like. OTOH Fusion360 is favoured by some, so you would need to have a play and find out which one suits you.
I did a basic tutorial on producing a simple window frame in Sketchup a few months ago, at:
https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... t=sketchup
Metalmuncher did something similar for Fusion360

I'm pretty sure that Sketcup is only available for Windows and I suspect Fusion360 may be as well although I could be mistaken, I which case you may be limited to whatever you are currently doing.
However Rik produced the windows for his Bone Worksl using Tinkercad and his cheap printer, so yuo should be able to sort what you want to do I would have thought.https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... ll#p155809

The recent mentioning of "fixing" was mainly to do with complex 3d curved shapes, as in human figures, so I wouldn't worry about that at this stage.

I think your problem is going to be finding a slicer program which works on a Chromebook. There is an online slicer called Astroprint, but I've no idea how good it is.

Rik

Ruby, your'e printing is fantastic.....


Slicing, tweaking and all the other things to think about. My head is spinning, mind you it doesn't take much...