Garden Railway Forum

I'm still at the Pritt Stick on glass bed stage. It certainly works well - to the extent that I often have to chisel the prints off the bed (when I get the levelling right). But. as you've said, it leaves the underside of the print slightly uneven and coated with solidified Pritt which needs to be scraped and then smoothed off.

Those plastic cover sheets sound interesting

Rik

ge_rik wrote: ↑Sat Oct 10, 2020 10:06 pm
Those plastic cover sheets sound interesting

This is the one for my m/c. Amazon also list what appear to be similar but different sizes, for other Qidi models but they aren't blue so not sure if they are actually the same.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Platform-Stick ... YFPRWA8VJP

Wow, there's so much to catch up on here! That bridge is wonderful, just right - and the KS diesel too...

Things have been busy at work lately, but I'm hoping lunch hours might start becoming A Thing again, and with them the chance to play with some CAD - there's certainly plenty of inspiration here!

Thanks for sharing your experience chaps,

Andrew.

I am currently finishing off those Ashbury 4 wheel coaches which featured on this thread a while ago. I think that the process could be better covered in a separate thread. So this is where we left off with the coaches:
They have been painted with the basic colour that I use to represent the Victorian livery used on the Festiniog railway. They have received 3 coats of paint thinned with 35% thinners, so the paint will go through an airbrush. I actually find that I get a better covering and its easier to paint using a brush and unthined paint. In this case the paint is from Precision paints.

So as far as I am concerned they are ready for the lining. So lets call the new thread "Lining externally panelled Victorian coaches"

Just set up my new Eryone printer and am printing one of the test pieces. .

A couple of observations:

1. It's almost silent. In fact the noisiest thing is the fan on the power supply, and that's only a whisper.
2. Bed levelling is so much easier than my cheapo printer. Twiddling large gnurled wheels underneath the plate rather than using a a Phillips screwdriver to hold the screw and a fiddling with a half visible wing nut.

It has a glass plate bed, but the surface is textured so, for now, doesn't need any adhesive. The XYZ cube it's printing seems, so far, to be really smooth. Never did get rid of the striations on the vertical axis on my old printer. I'll post a picture of the cube when it's finished!

Rik

PS It's an early Christmas present. I may have to pack it away until Christmas day ........ But I needed to test it, didn't I?

Boys and their toys!!!!! Good to know we don't have to grow up.

Peter Butler wrote: ↑Tue Oct 13, 2020 11:08 am Boys and their toys!!!!! Good to know we don't have to grow up.

It's what keeps us all so youthful ....
Rik

The XYZ cube. There seems to have been a fractional Y shift about 2/3 of the way through the print, otherwise very pleased.
.
Rik

Well done Rik ( and Mrs Rik!).
Must admit I'd never even heard of this manufacturer before. What size is the build plate, it looks quite big?

The Y shift part way up is something that I get occasionally and I've never found out why. It appears to be with the slicer output since it is repeatable, but of course it could be in the original CAD drawing and the slicer is simply faithfully reproducing what it is fed!

Hi all,

Thought I'd join in the fun so have downloaded and am currently playing with Sketchup - I can see the potential, but I think I've got a lot more tutorials to watch!!!

Push/pull and offset tools are fun, but I'm currently struggling to combine the two in a way that ensures that shapes I create are solid... I'll let you know how I get on!

Cheers,

Andrew.

philipy wrote: ↑Tue Oct 13, 2020 4:21 pm What size is the build plate, it looks quite big?

The potential build volume is 300 X 300 X 400
The heating element covers the whole area, so it might be feasible to print to the edges. My cheapo printer only years the middle of the bed.

Rik

Andrew wrote: ↑Tue Oct 13, 2020 5:55 pm

Push/pull and offset tools are fun, but I'm currently struggling to combine the two in a way that ensures that shapes I create are solid

Andrew, Push/pull is essential, but I didn't get to grips with the Offset for quite a while and don't use it that often even now. It's useful on curved shapes but for rectangles/straight lines it's just as easy to simply measure and draw straight lines. "Follow Me" is also very useful as are the two "Intersect Faces With..." tools.

If I can help feel free to PM me.

Andrew

That is interesting. The push pull I use all the time. The offset I have never used. I haven't found the follow me to be much use. When I want it to follow around a curve - bent pipes for example it doesn't work. No idea why. I also tried to make a ball with it and that didn't work either. I came to the conclusion that it was something which only worked properly in the paid version.

Trevor

Trevor Thompson wrote: ↑Wed Oct 14, 2020 12:44 pm Andrew

I haven't found the follow me to be much use. When I want it to follow around a curve - bent pipes for example it doesn't work.

It does work but I suspect it is very unforgiving of the geometry it is being asked to follow and then it says something about the path not starting or ending correctly, or a couple of similar messages. I have found that curves don't always select properly and it is necessary to highlight some or all of the individual segements.
Take a look at https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 15#p140475 and then read my follow up reply to Peter Butler at 2pm the next day.

Thanks for the thoughts chaps, and the offer of help Philip - I'm looking forward to have another play with it, maybe this evening.

I drew something that looked vaguely like a tipper wagon body yesterday (from memory, just to practice), but think probably I need to get stuck into a project and see where it takes me...

Andrew

Andrew,
I understand your desire to draw a wagon body, but I'd suggest starting with something much simpler to begin with, say the window frames that Rik and I were messing about with a few weeks ago, or something equally simple. The first thing I did was a simple 4 part platform seat ( two mirrored ends ( inner and outer faces) plus identical slat seat and back ), both to develop my drawing skills and then my first foray into actual printing.

Good advice!

I wish I'd read it before I got stuck in to building the floor of my wagon! Several hours later I've got something that looks reasonable - although I've no idea if it'll make a viable print!

I'm attempting a model of an FR tipper wagon, built on the chassis of a 3T slate wagon - see: https://www.festipedia.org.uk/wiki/Four ... ate_waggon. I've started by measuring up the floor and underframe of my model of the slate wagon (itself 3D-printed, but not by me!), copying some of the details and adding some from the tipper. Here's where I'm up to - this is upside down:


Couplings next, maybe, but not until tomorrow!

Cheers,

Andrew

philipy wrote: ↑Wed Oct 14, 2020 2:42 pm

Trevor Thompson wrote: ↑Wed Oct 14, 2020 12:44 pm Andrew

I haven't found the follow me to be much use. When I want it to follow around a curve - bent pipes for example it doesn't work.

It does work but I suspect it is very unforgiving of the geometry it is being asked to follow and then it says something about the path not starting or ending correctly, or a couple of similar messages. I have found that curves don't always select properly and it is necessary to highlight some or all of the individual segements.
Take a look at https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 15#p140475 and then read my follow up reply to Peter Butler at 2pm the next day.

Well that is interesting! I like the pipework. I will have another look at the follow me tool!

Trevor

Something I was trying to demonstrate to somebody else:

Draw the line in the shape you want, then draw the cross-section you want ( make sure it is touching the end of the line)

Select the line ( make sure you get ALL of it)
Select the Follow Me tool and click on the cross-section shape... magic happens!
BTW, the two versions show the difference between the default 24-segment circle on the rhs and a 96-segment circle on the left.

My latest project has been to replicate the open wagons which I constructed from my own resin castings. I was interested in how a 3D printed version might compare. The originals used Hartland Loco Works mini-series wagon chassis which, at the time, could be picked up for less than £10 each. They have now ceased production and so I have produced my own version which uses the same dimensions but has more appropriate W-iron leaf spring suspension than the HLW version. Still a bit more tweaking to be done - the internal planking disappears because, I am reliably informed, of the 'elephant's foot effect' so I need to compensate for that. But, I'm quite pleased with the outcome. All drawn in TinkerCAD BTW. . . . .
Rik